Observation and theoretical analysis for the sand-waves migration in the North Gulf of South China Sea

According to the environmental characteristic of the north gulf of South China Sea, a quasi-3D mechanics model has been built for simulating the small scale sand-waves migration in the seas of southwest of Hainan Island. Based on the submarine micro-geomorphic data induced by multi-beam system and hydrographic survey record, the migrations of the sand-waves in the study area are predicted. The results show that calculation is consistent with the observation data in the groove of sand ridge, but not well in the crest of sand ridge. It is indicated that the mechanics model should be used to predict the migration of the small scale sand-waves which are dominated by bed load in the seas. This paper is very meaningful to project the route of submarine pipeline.

Long-Wave Dynamics of Sea Level Variations during Indian Ocean Dipole Events

Long-wave dynamics of the interannual variations of the equatorial Indian Ocean circulation are studied using an ocean general circulation model forced by the assimilated surface winds and heat flux of the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts. The simulation has reproduced the sea level anomalies of the Ocean Topography Experiment (TOPEX)/Poseidon altimeter observations well. The equatorial Kelvin and Rossby waves decomposed from the model simulation show that western boundary reflections provide important negative feedbacks to the evolution of the upwelling currents off the Java coast during Indian Ocean dipole (IOD) events. Two downwelling Kelvin wave pulses are generated at the western boundary during IOD events: the first is reflected from the equatorial Rossby waves and the second from the off-equatorial Rossby waves in the southern Indian Ocean. The upwelling in the eastern basin during the 1997-98 IOD event is weakened by the first Kelvin wave pulse and terminated by the second. In comparison, the upwelling during the 1994 IOD event is terminated by the first Kelvin wave pulse because the southeasterly winds off the Java coast are weak at the end of 1994. The atmospheric intraseasonal forcing, which plays an important role in inducing Java upwelling during the early stage of an IOD event, is found to play a minor role in terminating the upwelling off the Java coast because the intraseasonal winds are either weak or absent during the IOD mature phase. The equatorial wave analyses suggest that the upwelling off the Java coast during IOD events is terminated primarily by western boundary reflections.

Wave generation by the falling rock in the two-dimensional wave tank

Wave generation by the falling rock in the two-dimensional wave tank is experimentally and numerically studied, where the numerical model utilizes the boundary element method to solve the fully nonlinear potential flow theory. The wave profiles at different times are measured in the laboratory, which are also used to test the numerical model. Comparisons show that the experimental and numerical results are in good agreement, and the numerical model can be used to simulate the wave generation due to the submarine rock falling. Further numerical tests on the influences of the rock size, density, initial position and the falling angle on the wave elevation of the generated waves are performed, respectively. The results show that the size and density of the rock have strong effects on the maximum elevation of the generated wave, while the effects of the initial position and the falling angle of the rock are also significant. When the size or the density of the rock increases, the maximum elevation of the generated wave increases. The same effect on the generated wave would be produced if the initial position of the rock becomes closer to the surface, or the falling angle between the falling route and the vertical direction turns larger. In addition, the present numerical tests reveal that the submarine rock falling provides a new generation method for the breaking wave in the wave tank.

Simulation of barotropic and baroclinic tides in the South China Sea

The four leading tidal constituents M-2, S-2, K-1 and O-1 in the South China Sea are simulated by using POM. The model is forced with tide-generating potential and four leading tidal constituents at the open boundary. In order to simulate more exactly, TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter data are assimilated into the model and the open boundary is optimized. The computed co-tidal charts for M-2 and K-1 constituents are generally consistent with previous results in this region. The numerical simulation shows that energetic internal tides are generated over the bottom topography such as the Dongsha Islands, the Xisha Islands, the Zhongsha Islands, the Nansba Islands and the Luzon Strait.

Influence of mean water depth and a subsurface sandbar on the onset and strength of wave breaking

Wave breaking in the open ocean and coastal zones remains an intriguing yet incompletely understood process, with a strong observed association with wave groups. Recent numerical study of the evolution of fully nonlinear, two-dimensional deep water wave groups identified a robust threshold of a diagnostic growth-rate parameter that separated nonlinear wave groups that evolved to breaking from those that evolved with recurrence. This paper investigates whether these deep water wave-breaking results apply more generally, particularly in finite-water-depth conditions. For unforced nonlinear wave groups in intermediate water depths over a flat bottom, it was found that the upper bound of the diagnostic growth-rate threshold parameter established for deep water wave groups is also applicable in intermediate water depths, given by k(0) h greater than or equal to 2, where k(0) is the mean carrier wavenumber and h is the mean depth. For breaking onset over an idealized circular arc sandbar located on an otherwise flat, intermediate-depth (k(0) h greater than or equal to 2) environment, the deep water breaking diagnostic growth rate was found to be applicable provided that the height of the sandbar is less than one-quarter of the ambient mean water depth. Thus, for this range of intermediate-depth conditions, these two classes of bottom topography modify only marginally the diagnostic growth rate found for deep water waves. However, when intermediate-depth wave groups ( k(0) h greater than or equal to 2) shoal over a sandbar whose height exceeds one-half of the ambient water depth, the waves can steepen significantly without breaking. In such cases, the breaking threshold level and the maximum of the diagnostic growth rate increase systematically with the height of the sandbar. Also, the dimensions and position of the sandbar influenced the evolution and breaking threshold of wave groups. For sufficiently high sandbars, the effects of bottom topography can induce additional nonlinearity into the wave field geometry and associated dynamics that modifies the otherwise robust deep water breaking-threshold results.

A semi-analytical theory of coastal upwelling and jet

The general forms of the conservation of momentum, temperature and potential vorticity of coastal ocean are obtained in the x-z plane for the nonlinear ocean circulation of Boussinesq fluid, and a elliptic type partial differential equations of second order are derived. Solution of the partial differential equations are obtained under the conditions that the fluid moves along the topography. The numerical results show that there exist both upwelling and downwelling along coastline that mainly depends on the large scale ocean condition. Numerically results of the upwelling (downwelling), coastal jet and temperature front zone are favorable to the observations.

Mean sea surface heights of the South and East China Seas from ocean circulation model and geodetic leveling

The mean sea surface heights (sea surface topography) of the South China, East China, Yellow and Bohai Seas are derived from an ocean general circulation model and surface air pressure. The circulation model covers the global oceans, with fine grid (1/6degrees) covering the East Asian marginal seas and coarse grid (31) covering the rest part of the global oceans. The result shows that the China 1985 National Altitude Datum is 24.7 cm above the me-an sea surface height of the world oceans. The mean sea surface in the coastal ocean adjacent to China is higher in the south than in the north. Intercomparison of the model results with the geodetic leveling measurements at 28 coastal tidal stations shows a standard deviation of 4.8 cm and a fitting coefficient of 95.3%. After correction through linear regression, the standard deviation is reduced to 4.5 cm. This indicates that the accuracy of model results is sufficient for practical application. Based on the model results, the mean sea surface heights for the study area with a resolution of 1/6 degree are given. This result also links the mean sea levels at islands with those on the mainland coast and gives the mean sea surface heights at tidal stations in the Taiwan Island, the Dongsha Islands, the Yisha Islands and the Nansha Islands relative to the China 1985 National Altitude Datum.

The role of Qiongzhou Strait in the seasonal variation of the South China Sea circulation

An analysis of the water level and current data taken in Qiongzhou Strait in the South China Sea (SCS) over the last 37 years (1963 to 1999) was made to examine the characteristics of tidal waves and residual flow through the strait and their roles in the seasonal variation of the SCS circulation. The observations reveal that Qiongzhou Strait is an area where opposing tidal waves interact and a source of water transport to the Gulf of Beibu (Gulf of Tonkin), SCS. A year-round westward mean flow with a maximum speed of 10-40 cm s(-1) is found in Qiongzhou Strait. This accounts for water transport of 0.2-0.4 Sv and 0.1-0.2 Sv into the Gulf of Beibu in winter-spring and summer-autumn, respectively. The outflow from Qiongzhou Strait may cause up to 44% of the gulf water to be refreshed each season, suggesting that it has a significant impact on the seasonal circulation in the Gulf of Beibu. This finding is in contrast to our current understanding that the seasonal circulation patterns in the South China Sea are primarily driven by seasonal winds. Several numerical experiments were conducted to examine the physical mechanisms responsible for the formation of the westward mean flow in Qiongzhou Strait. The model provides a reasonable simulation of semidiurnal and diurnal tidal waves in the strait and the predicted residual flow generally agrees with the observed mean flow. An analysis of the momentum equations indicates that the strong westward flow is driven mainly by tidal rectification over variable bottom topography. Both observations and modeling suggest that the coastal physical processes associated with tidal rectification and buoyancy input must be taken into account when the mass balance of the SCS circulation is investigated, especially for the regional circulation in the Gulf of Beibu.

Ocean wave imaging mechanism by imaging radar

Analytical representations of the high frequency spectra of ocean wave and its variation due to the variation of ocean surface current are derived from the wave-number spectrum balance equation. The ocean surface imaging formulation of real aperture radar (RAR) is given using electromagnetic wave backscattering theory of ocean surface and the modulations of ocean surface winds, currents and their variations to RAR are described. A general representation of the phase modulation induced by the ocean surface motion is derived according to standard synthetic aperture radar (SAR) imaging theory. The detectability of ocean current and sea bottom topography by imaging radar is discussed. The results constitute the theoretical basis for detecting ocean wave fields, ocean surface winds, ocean surface current fields, sea bottom topography, internal wave and so on.

Annual cycle of stratification and tidal fronts in the Bohai Sea: A model study

In general, competition between buoyancy mechanisms and mixing dynamics largely determines the water column structure in a shelf sea. A three dimensional baroclinic ocean model forced by surface heat fluxes and the 2.5 order Mellor-Yamada turbulence scheme is used to simulate the annual cycle of the temperature in the Bohai Sea. The difference between the sea surface temperature (SST) and sea bottom temperature (SBT) is used to examine the evolution of its vertical stratification. It is found that the water column is well-mixed from October to March and that the seasonal thermocline appears in April, peaks in July and then weakens afterwards, closely following the heat budget. In addition, the Loder parameter based on the topography and tidal current amplitude is also computed in order to examine tidal fronts in the BS, which are evident in summer months when the wind stirring mechanism is weak.

Eddy generation and evolution in the North Pacific Subtropical Countercurrent (NPSC) zone

The seasonal generation and evolution of eddies in the region of the North Pacific Subtropical Countercurrent remain poorly understood due to the scarcity of available data. We used TOPEX/POSEIDON altimetry data from 1992 to 2007 to study the eddy field in this zone. We found that velocity shear between this region and the neighboring North Equatorial Current contributes greatly to the eddy generation. Furthermore, the eddy kinetic energy level (EKE) shows an annual cycle, maximum in April/May and minimum in December/January. Analyses of the temporal and spatial distributions of the eddy field revealed clearly that the velocity shear closely related to baroclinic instability processes. The eddy field seems to be more zonal than meridional, and the energy containing length scale shows a surprising lag of 2-3 months in comparison with the 1-D and 2-D EKE level. A similar phenomenon is observed in individual eddies in this zone. The results show that in this eddy field band, the velocity shear may drive the EKE level change so that the eddy field takes another 2-3 months to grow and interact to reach a relatively stable state. This explains the seasonal evolution of identifiable eddies.

Variability of surface circulation in the South China Sea from satellite altimeter data

11-year satellite altimeter sea surface height (SSH) anomaly data from January 1993 to December 2003 are used to present the dominant spatial patterns and temporal variations of the South China Sea (SCS) surface circulation through Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis. The first three EOF modes show the obvious seasonal variations of SSH in the SCS. EOF mode one is generally characterized by a basin-wide circulation. Mode two describes the double-cell basin scale circulation structure. The two cells were located off west of the Luzon Island and southeast of Vietnam, respectively. EOF mode three presents the mesoscale eddy structure in the western SCS, which develops into a strong cyclonic eddy rapidly from July to September. EOF mode one and mode three are also embedded with interannual signals, indicating that the SCS surface circulation variation is influenced by El Nino events prominently. The strong El Nino of 1997/98 obviously changed the SCS circulation structure. This study also shows that there existed a series of mesoscale eddies in the western SCS, and their temporal variation indicates intra-seasonal and interannual signals.

古龙咀周围海区沉积物粒度特征及海底地形变化

对古龙咀周围浅海区沉积物的粒度进行了测试与分析，结合相关的地质水文资料，探讨了海岸形态对沉积物粒度的影响。研究区表层沉积物平均粒径在海湾浅海区呈带状由岸向海变细，中等水深和岬角处分布着细粒区，向外海粒径相对变粗；除险岛湾砂质区外，分选差；偏态多数为正偏或近正态；整体峰形极窄，峰型多样。底质类型以粘土质粉砂和砂质粉砂为主，由东北经古龙咀岬角向西南形成S形粘土质粉砂分布带，险岛湾地区沉积物呈带状由砂逐渐过渡到粉砂。潮汐和波浪是本区沉积物输运的主要水动力，岬角的存在影响了沉积物粒度的分布。粒度趋势分析表明沉积物整体有向岬角汇聚的输运趋势。 对收集到基于1954年、1969年、1982年测量绘成的地形图水深数据进行数字化，结合2005年测量的水深数据，分别建立各时期DEM图，在此基础上分析研究区的地形特征。四个时期海底DEM呈现出大体一致的趋势，在险岛湾及白沙口海湾内为浅水区，水深值在-1～-4 m之间，深水区主要分布在南黄岛南端至古龙咀连线以南区域，呈扇形展布，水深由南黄岛两侧向中间逐渐加深，水深值在-10～ -17 m之间。从整体上看，研究区海底地形呈NW-SE方向逐渐加深。 将数字化后的水深数据统一校正到1956黄海高程系，分别建立DEM，运用GIS的栅格计算分析得出冲淤变化图。相关结果表明：1954～1969年研究区整体近岸为冲（险岛湾除外），离岸海域为淤；1969～1982年研究区总体处于弱淤积状态；1982-2005研究区海域近岸为淤，外海以弱冲刷状态为主。

多源多时相SAR资料反演水下地形的同化模型

合成孔径雷达(SAR)是重要的微波传感器之一，在海洋遥感领域得到了广泛应用。浅海水下地形SAR探测是SAR海洋应用的重要部分之一，发展业务化水下地形SAR探测技术是水下地形SAR探测研究的最终目标。现有的水下地形SAR探测是基于单景SAR影像开展的，探测结果不能全面反映水下地形。因此，发展一种基于多源多时相SAR影像的水下地形反演方法是该研究方向的前沿问题。 本文基于水下地形SAR成像机制和袁业立（1997）导出的海波高频谱解析表达式，首次建立了基于多源多时相SAR影像的水下地形反演的同化模型与算法，并通过该模型在台湾浅滩水下地形SAR探测中的应用检验了该模型和算法的可行性。本文还开展了已有的浅海水下地形SAR探测技术（浅海水下地形单景SAR影像反演）在台湾浅滩水下地形探测中的应用研究，以及反演初始水深对水下地形SAR反演结果影响的研究。此外，本文还对中国近海水下地形SAR成像能力进行了分析。 在浅海水下地形SAR探测技术应用于台湾浅滩研究方面，基于7景SAR影像开展了台湾浅滩单景SAR影像反演计算，反演结果表明同一水下地形不同时相SAR影像反演结果不能全面反映真实地形特征。 在反演初始水深对水下地形SAR反演结果影响研究方面，通过不同初始水深条件下台湾浅滩水下地形SAR反演结果的比较分析，可以得出：初始水深影响水下地形反演结果的准确性，初始水深的选取需要较粗的实际水深的支持； 在多源多时相水下地形SAR反演同化模型研究方面， 建立了多源多时相水下地形SAR反演的同化模型与算法，通过基于多源多时相SAR影像的台湾浅滩五种不同情形水下地形反演计算，证明了多源多时相水下地形SAR反演同化模型和算法是可行的，并给出了基于多源多时相SAR影像的水下地形反演计算中SAR影像的选取原则。 在中国近海浅海水下地形SAR响应能力分析方面，基于对中国近海潮汐潮流状况、水下地形概况和已有中国近海SAR影像中水下地形特征等的分析，总结出中国近海适合开展浅海水下地形SAR探测的区域主要有：渤海海域、苏北近海海域、台湾海峡海域和南沙群岛海域。

中国近海和西北太平洋温跃层时空变化分析、模拟及预报

温度跃层是反映海洋温度场的重要物理特性指标，对水下通讯、潜艇活动及渔业养殖、捕捞等有重要影响。本文利用中国科学院海洋研究所“中国海洋科学数据库”在中国近海及西北太平洋（110ºE-140ºE,10ºN-40ºN）的多年历史资料（1930-2002年，510143站次），基于一种改进的温跃层判定方法，分析了该海域温跃层特征量的时空分布状况。同时利用Princeton Ocean Model(POM)，对中国近海，特别是东南沿海的水文结构进行了模拟，研究了海洋水文环境对逆温跃层的影响。最后根据历史海温观测资料，利用EOF分解统计技术，提出了一种适于我国近海及毗邻海域，基于现场有限层实测海温数据，快速重构海洋水温垂直结构的统计预报方法，以达到对现场温跃层的快速估计。 历史资料分析结果表明，受太阳辐射和风应力的影响，20°N以北研究海域，温跃层季节变化明显，夏季温跃层最浅、最强，冬季相反，温跃层厚度的相位明显滞后于其他变量，其在春季最薄、秋季最厚。12月份到翌年3月份，渤、黄及东海西岸，呈无跃层结构，西北太平洋部分海域从1月到3月份，也基本无跃层结构。在黄海西和东岸以及台湾海峡附近的浅滩海域，由于风力搅拌和潮混合作用，温跃层出现概率常年较低。夏季，海水层化现象在近海陆架海域得到了加强，陆架海域温跃层强度季节性变化幅度(0.31°C/m)明显大于深水区(约0.05°C/m)，而前者温跃层深度和厚度的季节性变化幅度小于后者。20°N以南研究海域，温跃层季节变化不明显。逆温跃层主要出现在冬、春季节（10月-翌年5月）。受长江冲淡水和台湾暖流的影响，东南沿海区域逆温跃层持续时间最长，出现概率最大，而在山东半岛北及东沿岸、朝鲜半岛西及北岸，逆温跃层消长过程似乎和黄海暖流有关。多温跃层结构常年出现于北赤道流及对马暖流区。在黑潮入侵黄、东、南海的区域，多温跃层呈现明显不同的季节变化。在黄海中部，春季多温跃层发生概率高于夏季和秋季，在东海西部，多跃层主要出现在夏季，在南海北部，冬季和春季多温跃层发生概率大于夏季和秋季。这些变化可能主要受海表面温度变化和风力驱动的表层流的影响。 利用Princeton Ocean Model(POM)，对中国东南沿海逆温跃层结构进行了模拟，模拟结果显示，长江冲淡水的季节性变化以及夏季转向与实际结果符合较好，基本再现了渤、黄、东海海域主要的环流、温盐场以及逆温跃层的分布特征和季节变化。通过数值实验发现，若无长江、黄河淡水输入，则在整个研究海域基本无逆温跃层出现，因此陆源淡水可能是河口附近逆温跃层出现的基本因素之一。长江以及暖流（黑潮和台湾暖流）流量的增加，均可在不同程度上使逆温跃层出现概率及强度、深度和厚度增加，且暖流的影响更加明显。长江对东南沿海逆温跃层的出现，特别是秋季到冬季初期，有明显的影响，使长江口海域逆温跃层位置偏向东南。暖流对于中国东南沿海的逆温跃层结构，特别是初春时期，有较大影响，使长江口海域的逆温跃层位置向东北偏移。 通过对温跃层长期变化分析得出，黄海冷水团区域，夏季温跃层强度存在3.8年左右的年际变化及18.9年左右的年代际变化，此变化可能主要表现为对当年夏季和前冬东亚地区大气气温的热力响应。东海冷涡区域，夏季温跃层强度存在3.7年的年际变化，在El Nino年为正的强度异常，其可能主要受局地气旋式大气环流变异所影响。谱分析同时表明，该海域夏季温跃层强度还存在33.2年的年代际变化，上世纪70年代中期，温跃层强度由弱转强，而此变化可能与黑潮流量的年代际变化有关。 海洋水温垂直结构的统计预报结果显示，EOF分解的前四个主分量即能够解释原空间点温度距平总方差的95%以上，以海洋表层附近观测资料求解的特征系数推断温度垂直结构分布的结果最稳定。利用东海陆架区、南海深水区和台湾周边海域三个不同区域的实测CTD样本廓线资料，对重构模型的检验结果表明，重构与实测廓线的相关程度超过95%的置信水平。三个区重构与实测温度廓线值的平均误差分别为0.69℃，0.52℃，1.18℃，平均重构廓线误差小于平均气候偏差，统计模式可以很好的估算温度廓线垂直结构。东海陆架海区温度垂直重构廓线与CTD观测廓线获得的温跃层结果对比表明，重构温跃层上界、下界深度和强度的平均绝对误差分别为1.51m、1.36m和0.17℃/m，它们的平均相对误差分别为24.7%、8.9%和22.6%，虽然温跃层深度和强度的平均相对误差较大，但其绝对误差量值较小。而在南海海区，模型重构温跃层上界、下界和强度的平均绝对预报误差分别为4.1m、27.7m和0.007℃/m，它们的平均相对误差分别为16.1%、16.8%和9.5%，重构温跃层各特征值的平均相对误差都在20%以内。虽然南海区温跃层下界深度平均绝对预报误差较大，但相对于温跃层下界深度的空间尺度变化而言（平均温跃层下界深度为168m），平均相对误差仅为16.8%。因此说模型重构的温度廓线可以达到对我国陆架海域、深水区温跃层的较好估算。 基于对历史水文温度廓线观测资料的分析及自主温跃层统计预报模型，研制了实时可利用微机简单、快捷地进行温跃层估算及查询的可视化系统，这是迄今进行大范围海域温跃层统计与实时预报研究的较系统成果。