884 resultados para Ready-to- wear clothing
Resumo:
When visual information is confined to one object plane, the emmetropization end-point is adjusted in accord with the corresponding incident optical vergence at the eye [Proceedings of the 7th International Conference on Myopia (2000) 113]. We now report the effect of adding extra visual information beyond the target plane. Visual conditions were controlled using a cone-lens system: black Maltese cross targets on white opaque backgrounds (OMX) were attached to the open faces of 2.5 cm translucent cones fitted with either 0, +25 or +40 D imaging lenses. An alternative target (TMX) was made by substituting the opaque target background for a transparent background, which allowed access to visual information beyond the target plane. The imaging devices were applied to 7-day-old chicks and worn for 4 days. Prior to this treatment, on day 2, some chicks underwent ciliary nerve section (CNS) to preclude accommodation. All treatments were monocular. Refractive errors and axial ocular dimensions were measured using retinoscopy and A-scan ultrasonography under halothane anesthesia. Treatment effects were specified as mean ( +/-S.D.) interocular differences. Eyes with the OMX/ + 40 D lens combination remained emmetropic ( +0.73 +/-3.57 D), consistent with the target plane being approximately conjugate with the retina. Switching to the TMX caused a hyperopic shift in refractive error ( + 3.78 +/- 3.41 D). This relative shift towards hyperopia in switching from the OMX to the TMX target also occurred for the other two lens powers. Thus, the OMX/ + 25 D lens induced myopia ( - 7.00 +/-5.88 D), corresponding to the imposed hyperopic defocus (target plane now imaged behind the retina), and switching to the TMX resulted in a reduction in myopia (-1.73 +/-5.36 D), The OMX/0 D lens combination produced the largest myopic shift, and here, switching to the TMX condition almost eliminated the myopic response (-15.50 +/-6.62 D cf. -0.56 +/-1.24 D). This relative hyperopic shift associated with switching from the OMX to the TMX target was eliminated by CNS surgery. Thus, the two CNS/TMX groups were both more myopic than the equivalent no CNS/TMX groups ( + 40 D lens: -2.66 +/-2.34 D; +25 D lens: -7.97 +/-6.87 D). When the visual information is restricted to one plane, incident optical vergence appears to direct emmetropization. Adding Visual information at other distances produces a shift in the end-point of ernmetropization in the direction of the added information. That these effects are dependent on the integrity of the accommodation system implies that accommodation plays a role in emmetropization and represents the first reported evidence of this kind. Published by Elsevier Science Ltd.
Resumo:
The six-month period from July to December 2001 was an extraordinary phase in Australia’s political history. Until 26 August, when 460 asylum seekers were rescued from their sinking vessel off the Western Australian coast, there was nothing to suggest that politics in Australia would be any different from the usual round of policy pronouncements, routine attacks by the opposition, and the occasional headlinegrabbing scandal. It seemed, as the Australian’s international editor Paul Kelly wrote, that tax would dominate the 2001 federal election campaign (21-22 July 2001). Once the asylum seekers had been rescued by the Norwegian freighter Tampa and refused entry to Australia, however, tax declined in significance. The ramifications of the Tampa incident and its aftermath were still engaging the Australian polity when, on 11 September, terrorists hijacked four passenger jets in the United States and flew two of them into the World Trade Centre in New York, one into the Pentagon, and crashed another in Pennsylvania, killing, it was estimated, more than 6000 people. Both incidents changed Australian politics. The extent and significance of the changes remain to be fully seen, but one short-term effect was to boost significantly the government’s chances of re-election.
Resumo:
The clothing sector in Portugal is still seen, in many aspects as a traditional sector with some average characteristics, such as: low level of qualifications, less flexible labour legislation and stronger unionisation, very low salaries and low capability of investment in innovation and new technology. Is, nevertheless, a very important sector in terms of labour market, with increased weight in the exporting structure. Globalisation and delocalisation are having a strong impact in the organisation of work and in occupational careers in the sector. With the pressure of global competitiveness in what concerns time and prices, very few companies are able to keep a position in the market without changes in organisation of work and workers. And those that can perform good responses to such challenges are achieving a better economical stability. The companies have found different ways to face this reality according to size, capital and position. We could find two main paths: one where companies outsource a part or the entire production to another territory (for example, several manufacturing tasks), close and/or dismissal the workers. Other path, where companies up skilled their capacities investing, for example, in design, workers training, conception and introduction of new or original products. This paper will present some results from the European project WORKS – Work organisation and restructuring in the knowledge society (6th Framework Programme), focusing the Portuguese case studies in several clothing companies in what concern implications of global context for the companies in general and for the workers in particular, in a comparative analysis with some other European countries.
Resumo:
Emergent architectures and paradigms targeting reconfigurable manufacturing systems increasingly rely on intelligent modules to maximize the robustness and responsiveness of modern installations. Although intelligent behaviour significantly minimizes the occurrence of faults and breakdowns it does not exclude them nor can prevent equipment’s normal wear. Adequate maintenance is fundamental to extend equipments’ life cycle. It is of major importance the ability of each intelligent device to take an active role in maintenance support. Further this paradigm shift towards “embedded intelligence”, supported by cross platform technologies, induces relevant organizational and functional changes on local maintenance teams. On the one hand, the possibility of outsourcing maintenance activities, with the warranty of a timely response, through the use of pervasive networking technologies and, on the other hand, the optimization of local maintenance staff are some examples of how IT is changing the scenario in maintenance. The concept of e-maintenance is, in this context, emerging as a new discipline with defined socio-economic challenges. This paper proposes a high level maintenance architecture supporting maintenance teams’ management and offering contextualized operational support. All the functionalities hosted by the architecture are offered to the remaining system as network services. Any intelligent module, implementing the services’ interface, can report diagnostic, prognostic and maintenance recommendations that enable the core of the platform to decide on the best course of action.
Resumo:
Si3N4 tools were coated with a thin diamond film using a Hot-Filament Chemical Vapour Deposition (HFCVD) reactor, in order to machining a grey cast iron. Wear behaviour of these tools in high speed machining was the main subject of this work. Turning tests were performed with a combination of cutting speeds of 500, 700 and 900 m min−1, and feed rates of 0.1, 0.25 and 0.4 mm rot−1, remaining constant the depth of cut of 1 mm. In order to evaluate the tool behaviour during the turning tests, cutting forces were analyzed being verified a significant increase with feed rate. Diamond film removal occurred for the most severe set of cutting parameters. It was also observed the adhesion of iron and manganese from the workpiece to the tool. Tests were performed on a CNC lathe provided with a 3-axis dynamometer. Results were collected and registered by homemade software. Tool wear analysis was achieved by a Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) provided with an X-ray Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy (EDS) system. Surface analysis was performed by a profilometer.
Resumo:
Thrust ball bearings lubricated with several different types of grease, including three biodegradable low-toxicity greases, were tested in a modified four-ball machine in order to evaluate the bearing friction torque. At the end of each test, grease samples were obtained and analysed through ferrography, allowing the quantification and evaluation of the bearing wear. In order to compare the grease performance in terms of friction and wear, a correlation between the grease characteristics (base oil, bleed oil, thickener structure, and rheological parameters) and the experimental results was established.
Resumo:
Micro-abrasion wear tests with ball-cratering configuration are widely used. Sources of variability are already studied by different authors and conditions for testing are parameterized by BS EN 1071-6: 2007 standard which refers silicon carbide as abrasive. However, the use of other abrasives is possible and allowed. In this work, ball-cratering wear tests were performed using four different abrasive particles of three dissimilar materials: diamond, alumina and silicon carbide. Tests were carried out under the same conditions on a steel plate provided with TiB2 hard coating. For each abrasive, five different test durations were used allowing understanding the initial wear phenomena. Composition and shape of abrasive particles were investigated by SEM and EDS. Scar areas were observed by optical and electronic microscopy in order to understand the wear effects caused by each of them. Scar geometry and grooves were analyzed and compared. Wear coefficient was calculated for each situation. It was observed that diamond particles produce well-defined and circular wear scars. Different silicon carbide particles presented dissimilar results as consequence of distinct particle shape and size distribution.
Resumo:
Abrasion by glass fibers during injection molding of fiber reinforced plastics raises new challenges to the wear performance of the molds. In the last few decades, a large number of PVD and CVD coatings have been developed with the aim of minimizing abrasion problems. In this work, two different coatings were tested in order to increase the wear resistance of the surface of a mold used for glass fiber reinforced plastics: TiAlSiN and CrN/CrCN/DLC. TiAlSiN was deposited as a graded monolayer coating while CrN/CrCN/DLC was a nanostructured coating consisting of three distinct layers. Both coatings were produced by PVD unbalanced magnetron sputtering and were characterized using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) provided with energy dispersive spectroscopy (EDS), atomic force microscopy (AFM), micro hardness (MH) and scratch test analysis. Coating morphology, thickness, roughness, chemical composition and structure, hardness and adhesion to the substrate were investigated. Wear resistance was characterized through industrial tests with coated samples and an uncoated reference sample inserted in a feed channel of a plastic injection mold working with 30 wt.% glass fiber reinforced polypropylene. Results after 45,000 injection cycles indicate that the wear resistance of the mold was increased by a factor of 25 and 58, by the TiAlSiN and CrN/CrCN/DLC coatings, respectively, over the uncoated mold steel.
Resumo:
Nanocrystalline diamond (NCD) coatings offer an excellent alternative for tribological applications, preserving most of the intrinsic mechanical properties of polycrystalline CVD diamond and adding to it an extreme surface smoothness. Silicon nitride (Si3N4) ceramics are reported to guarantee high adhesion levels to CVD microcrystalline diamond coatings, but the NCD adhesion to Si3N4 is not yet well established. Micro-abrasion tests are appropriate for evaluating the abrasive wear resistance of a given surface, but they also provide information on thin film/substrate interfacial resistance, i.e., film adhesion. In this study, a comparison is made between the behaviour of NCD films deposited by hot-filament chemical vapour deposition (HFCVD) and microwave plasma assisted chemical vapour deposition (MPCVD) techniques. Silicon nitride (Si3N4) ceramic discs were selected as substrates. The NCD depositions by HFCVD and MPCVD were carried out using H2–CH4 and H2–CH4–N2 gas mixtures, respectively. An adequate set of growth parameters was chosen for each CVD technique, resulting in NCD films having a final thickness of 5 m. A micro-abrasion tribometer was used, with 3 m diamond grit as the abrasive slurry element. Experiments were carried out at a constant rotational speed (80 r.p.m.) and by varying the applied load in the range of 0.25–0.75 N. The wear rate for MPCVD NCD (3.7±0.8 × 10−5 m3N−1m−1) is compatible with those reported for microcrystalline CVD diamond. The HFCVD films displayed poorer adhesion to the Si3N4 ceramic substrates than the MPCVD ones. However, the HFCVD films show better wear resistance as a result of their higher crystallinity according to the UV Raman data, despite evidencing premature adhesion failure.
Resumo:
Ball rotating micro-abrasion tribometers are commonly used to carry out wear tests on thin hard coatings. In these tests, different kinds of abrasives were used, as alumina (Al2O3), silicon carbide (SiC) or diamond. In each kind of abrasive, several particle sizes can be used. Some studies were developed in order to evaluate the influence of the abrasive particle shape in the micro-abrasion process. Nevertheless, the particle size was not well correlated with the material removed amount and wear mechanisms. In this work, slurry of SiC abrasive in distilled water was used, with three different particles size. Initial surface topography was accessed by atomic force microscopy (AFM). Coating hardness measurements were performed with a micro-hardness tester. In order to evaluate the wear behaviour, a TiAlSiN thin hard film was used. The micro-abrasion tests were carried out with some different durations. The abrasive effect of the SiC particles was observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) both in the films (hard material) as in the substrate (soft material), after coating perforation. Wear grooves and removed material rate were compared and discussed.
Resumo:
The injection process of glass fibres reinforced plastics promotes the moulds surface degradation by erosion. In order to improve its wear resistance, several kinds of PVD thin hard coatings were used. It is well-known that nanostructures present a better compromise between hardness and toughness. Indeed, when the coating is constituted by a large number of ultra-thin different layers, cracks and interface troubles tend to decrease. However, it is not clear that these nanostructures present a better wear behaviour in erosion processes. In order to study its wear behaviour, a sputtered PVD nanostructured TiAlCrSiN coating was used. The substrate and film surfaces topography were analyzed by profilometry and atomic force microscopy techniques. Film adhesion to the substrate was evaluated by scratch tests. The surface hardness was measured with a Vickers micro-hardness tester. The wear resistance was evaluated by micro-abrasion with a rotating ball tribometer tests. Slurry of SiC particles in distilled water was used in order to provoke the surface abrasion. Different duration tests were performed in order to analyze the wear evolution. After these tests, the wear mechanisms developed were analyzed by scanning electron microscopy. Wear craters were measured and the wear rate was calculated and discussed. With the same purpose, coated inserts were mounted in an injection mould working with a 30% glass fibres reinforced polypropylene. After 45 000 cycles no relevant wear was registered.
Resumo:
The ready biodegradability of four chelating agents, N,N -(S,S)-bis[1-carboxy-2-(imidazol-4-yl)ethyl]ethylenediamine (BCIEE), N - ethylenedi-L-cysteine (EC), N,N -bis (4-imidazolymethyl)ethylenediamine (EMI) and 2,6-pyridine dicarboxylic acid (PDA), was tested according to the OECD guideline for testing of chemicals. PDA proved to be a readily biodegradable substance. However, none of the other three compounds were degraded during the 28 days of the test. Chemical simulations were performed for the four compounds in order to understand their ability to complex with some metal ions (Ca, Cd, Co, Cu, Fe, Mg, Mn, Ni, Pb, Zn) and discuss possible applications of these chelating agents. Two different conditions were simulated: (i) in the presence of the chelating agent and one metal ion, and (ii) in the simultaneous presence of the chelating agent and all metal ions with an excess of Ca. For those compounds that were revealed not to be readily biodegradable (BCIEE, EC and EMI), applications were evaluated where this property was not fundamental or even not required. Chemical simulations pointed out that possible applications for these chelating agents are: food fortification, food process, fertilizers, biocides, soil remediation and treatment of metal poisoning. Additionally, chemical simulations also predicted that PDA is an efficient chelating agent for Ca incrustations removal, detergents and for pulp metal ions removal process.
Resumo:
Starting from theoretical perspectives on globalisation, the following article analyses how current working conditions are affected by globalisation processes. For this purpose, recent developments in the German clothing sector are traced back to the power of economic globalisation processes. Characterising the German clothing sector as pioneer in economic globalisation, we use empirical findings to illustrate how current processes of globalisation influence the work place: At organisational level, corporate strategies aim at rationalisation, standardisation and flexibilisation of work in order to response to the economic pressure of global markets. At individual level these strategies, in turn, speed up working processes and intensify working processes for the employees. Although these developments form strong trends, we conclude that the local embeddedness of companies is still of high importance with regard to organisational and individual consequences of globalisation.
Resumo:
The clothing sector in several countries is still seen, in many aspects as a traditional sector with some average characteristics, nevertheless is a very important sector in terms of labour market. Globalization and de-localization are having a strong impact in the organisation of work and in occupational careers. Very few companies are able to keep a position in the market without changes in organisation of work and workers, founding different ways to face this reality according to size, capital and position. We could find two main paths: one where companies outsource production to another territory, close and/ or dismissal the workers; other path, where companies up skilled their capacities. This paper will present some results from the European project WORKS – Work organisation and restructuring in the knowledge society (6th Framework Programme), focusing the Portuguese case studies in several clothing companies in a comparative analysis with some other European countrie