853 resultados para Fashion and Craft


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This thesis examines Death of a Ghost (1934), Flowers for the Judge (1935), Dancers in Mourning (1937), and The Fashion in Shrouds (1938), a group of detective novels by Margery Allingham that are differentiated from her other work by their generic hybridity. The thesis argues that the hybrid nature of this group of Campion novels enabled a highly skilled and insightful writer such as Allingham to negotiate the contradictory notions about the place of women that characterized the 1930s, and that in dOing so, she revealed the potential of one of the most popular and accessible genres, the detective novel of manners, to engage its readers in a serious cultural dialogue. The thesis also suggests that there is a connection between Allingham's exploration of modernity and femininity within these four novels and her personal circumstances. This argument is predicated upon the assumption that during the interwar period in England several social and cultural attitudes converged to challenge long-held beliefs about gender roles and class structure; that the real impact of this convergence was felt during the 1930s by the generation that had come of age in the previous decade-Margery Allingham's generation; and that that generation's ambivalence and confusion were reflected in the popular fiction of the decade. These attitudes were those of twentieth-century modernity--contradiction, discontinuity, fragmentation, contingency-and in the context of this study they are incorporated in a literary hybrid. Allingham uses this combination of the classical detective story and the novel of manners to examine the notion of femininity by juxtaposing the narrative of a longstanding patriarchal and hierarchical culture, embodied in the image of the Angel in the House, with that of the relatively recent rights and freedoms represented by the New Woman of the late nineteenth-century. Pierre Bourdieu's theory of social difference forms the theoretical foundation of the thesis's argument that through these conflicting narratives, as well as through the lives of her female characters, Allingham questioned the Hsocial myth" of the time, a prevailing view that, since the First World War, attitudes toward the appropriate role and sphere of women had changed.

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Structures related to ductile siMple shear parallel to the Bankf ield-Tonbill Fault, define a 5km wide zone, the Barton Bay Deformation Zone. Structures present within this zone Include; simple shear fabrics S, C and C , asymmetric Z shaped folds with rotated axes, boudinage and pinch and swell structures and a subhorlzontal extension llneation. The most highly deformed rock is a gabbro mylonite which occurs in the fault zone. The deformation of this gabbro has been traced in stages from a protomylonite to an ultramylonite In which feldspar and chlorite grainslze has been reduced from over 100 microns to as little as 5 microns. Evidence from the mylonite and the surrounding structure indicates that deformation within the Barton Bay Deformation Zone is related to a regional simple shear zone, the Bankf ield-Tombill Fault. Movement along this shear zone was in a south over north oblique strike slip fashion with a dextral sense of displacement.

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Objective: The adventitia has been recognized to play important roles in vascular oxidative stress, remodelling and contraction. We recently demonstrated that adventitial fibroblasts are able to express endothelin-1 (ET-1) in response to angiotensin II (ANG II). However, the mechanisms by which ANG II induces ET-1 expression are unknown. It is also unclear whether the ET-1 receptors are expressed in the adventitia. We therefore examined the role of oxidative stress in the regulation of ET-1. We also investigated the expression of both the ETA and ETB receptors and the roles of these two types of receptors in collagen synthesis and ET-1 clearance in adventitial fibroblasts. Methods and Results: Adventitial fibroblasts were isolated and cultured from the thoracic mouse aorta. Cells were treated with ANG II (lOOnM), ET-1 (lOpM), NADPH oxidase inhibitor apocynin (lOOfiM), the superoxide anion scavenger tempol (lOOfiM), the ANG II receptor antagonists (100[aM), losartan (AT| receptor) and PD 1233 19 (AT2 receptor), the ET-1 receptor antagonists (lOOuM), BQ123 (ETA receptor) and BQ788 (ETB receptor), and the ETB receptor agonist (lOOnM) Sarafotoxin 6C. ET-1 peptide levels were determined by ELISA, while ETA ,ETB and collagen levels were determined by Western blot. ANG II increased ET-1 peptide levels in a time-dependent manner reaching significance when incubated for 24 hours. NAD(P)H oxidase inhibitor, apocynin, as well as the superoxide scanverger, tempol, significantly reduced ANG Il-induced ET-1 peptide levels while over-expression of SOD1 (endogenous antioxidant enzyme) significantly decreased ANG Il-induced collagen I expression, therefore implicating reactive oxygen species in the mediation of ET-1. ANG II increased ETA receptor protein as well as collagen in a similar fashion, reaching significance after 4, 6, and 24 hours treatment. ANG II induced collagen was reduced while in the presence of the ETA receptor antagonist suggesting the role of the ETa receptor in the regulation of the extracellular matrix. ANG II treatment also increased ETB receptor protein levels in a time-dependent manner. ANG II treatment in the presence of the ETB receptor antagonist significantly increased ET-1 peptide levels. On another hand, the ETB receptor agonist, Sarafotoxin 6C, significantly decreased ET-1 peptide levels. These data implicate the role of the ETb receptor in the clearance of the ET-1 peptide. Conclusion: ANG II-induced increases of ET-1 peptide appears to be mediated by reactive oxygen species derived from NAD(P)H oxidase. Both the ETA and ETB receptors are expressed in adventitial fibroblasts. The ETA receptor subtype mediates collagen I expression, while the ETB receptor may play a protective role through increasing the clearance of the ET- 1 peptide.

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Creativity is important to the growth and development of society, to educational institutions, and to the personal growth of individuals. Students who are aware of their creativity are assumed to have innovative ideas and fresh insights. Limited research has been conducted to see if students can identify their own creative abilities. In this study, I explored the students' perceptions and experiences in a fashion design course. This study documented the creative journey from the concept stage of an apparel collection to the final product. Participants were asked to reflect and document their creative moments, describe a creative process, and identify a creative environment. The participants were students who were enrolled in a fashion design course and were asked to participate in this study because they experienced all stages of the design process. Data were collected through personal reflection surveys, focus groups, and personal interviews. Themes of creative moments that emerged from this study were experiences that the participants had as they proceeded through the stages of the fashion design process. All of the participants identified a creative process, but the stages varied for each participant The participants identified themes related to promoting creativity in an environment, including the atmosphere, creative people, teachers, reflection, student needs, and assignments. The participants identified potential barriers in an environment, including rules and guidelines, teachers, the classroom, deadlines and time, feedback, and other important issues. The results ofthis study suggest that there needs to be a better understanding of creativity and greater support and encouragement for creativity in the classroom. Instructors need to support environments that are conducive to creative development and lead to effective learning for students. Students need to learn how to enhance their creativity as well as understand the barriers that block their creative development.

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This narrative case study explored gifted and highly able adolescents' experiences with stress and coping. Nine students, ages 13-18, at 2 independent schools in southern Ontario, participated. They completed the Adolescent Coping Scale (Frydenberg & Lewis, 1993), and I generated individualized graphs of coping strategies. Participants talked about experiences they perceived as stressful in their academic, personal, social, and familial settings during a 60-90 minute one-on-one audiotaped interview. During the interview, each participant made observations about their own coping strategies profile. The interview was analyzed to identify stressor and coping themes. Participants completed a writing or art task to record perceptions of stress and coping. The 3 data sources were used to craft 9 individual story portraits, from which 5 main stressor themes emerged: issues of time; relationships, emotions, and communication; ethical, moral, and spiritual issues; global issues; and silences, or stressors not talked about in depth. Coping themes were: seeking relaxing activities; having positive attitudes and making wise choices; maintaining relationships with peers and family; understanding the role of faith and moral beliefs; having a supportive environment; knowing your own personality type; being aware of negative coping strategies; and keeping busy and avoiding stressfiil issues. The narratives are important because they present teenagers talking about their socioemotional worlds. The present findings provide empirical groundwork for curriculum development in affective education and highlight the importance of socioemotional development for future research in the area of giftedness and adolescence.

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The effects of a diurnal sine-wave temperature cycle (250 +- 5° C) on the wa terI-e etc r o1 yt est a t us 0 f gol df1' Sh , Carassius auratus, was assessed through determination of Na+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cl- and water content in plasma, Red blood cells and muscle tissue. Animals were also acclimated to o 0 0 static temperatures (20 C, 25 c, 30 C) corresponding to the high, low and mid-ooint temperatures of the cycle. All groups were sampled at 03:00, 09:00, 15:00 and 21:00 hr. Hemoglobin content and packed cell volume, as well as electrolyte and 'water levels were determined for each animal and red cell ion concentrations and ion : hemoglobin ratios estimated. Cycled animals were distinct from those at constant temperatures in several respects. Hematological parameters were elevated above those of animals at constant temperature and were, on a diurnal basis, more stable. Red blood cell electrolyte levels varied in an adaptively appropriate fashion to cycle temperatures. This was not the case in the constant temperature groups_ Under the cycling regime, plasma ion levels were more diurnally stable than those of constant temperature fish. Although muscle parameters in cycled fish exhibited more fluctuation than was observed in plasma, these also tended to be relatively more stable than was the caseErythrocytic data are discussed in terms of their effects on hemoglobin-oxygen affinity while plasma and muscle observations were considered from the standpoint of overall water-electrolyte balance. In general, cycled fish appeared to be capable of stabilizing overall body fluid composition, while simultaneously effecting adaptively-appropriate modifications in the erythrocytic ionic microenvironment of hemoglobin. The sometimes marked diurnal variability of water-electrolyte status in animals held at constant temperature as opposed to the conservation of cycled fish suggests that this species is, in some fashion, programmed for regulation in a thermally-fluctuating environment. If this interpretation is valid and a phenomenon of general occurrence, some earlier studies involving constant acclimation of eurythermal species normally occupying habitats which vary in temperature on a daily basis may require reconsideration. at constant temperature.

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Ellis (2004) argues that auto ethnography is a methodology that begins with the researcher as the site of study. Employing a qualitative storytelling structure shows, instead of tells. As the audience reads, they are encouraged to relate the research to their experiences, provoking reflective knowledge development. As an outdoor educator, I began to question the nature of my craft and how it was being shaped by my personal educational philosophy. So, drawing on a reflective journal I kept while employed as an outdoor educator in 2007, three outdoor educators published narratives, and a historical review of newspaper articles about Ontario-based outdoor education, conducted an autoethnographic inquiry and built a fictional story about my craft. I exposed five faultlines or areas of ideological tension, shaping my views about outdoor education and my craft.

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Competitive sports participation in youth is becoming increasingly more common in the Western world. It is widely accepted that sports participation, specifically endurance training, is beneficial for physical, psychomotor, and social development of children. The research on the effect of endurance training in children has focused mainly on healthrelated benefits and physiological adaptations, particularly on maximal oxygen uptake. However, corresponding research on neuromuscular adaptations to endurance training and the latter's possible effects on muscle strength in youth is lacking. In children and adults, resistance training can enhance strength and mcrease muscle activation. However, data on the effect of endurance training on strength and neuromuscular adaptations are limited. While some evidence exists demonstrating increased muscle activation and possibly increased strength in endurance athletes compared with untrained adults, the neuromuscular adaptations to endurance training in children have not been examined. Thus, the purpose of this study was to examine maximal isometric torque and rate of torque development (RID), along with the pattern of muscle activation during elbow and knee flexion and extension in muscle-endurancetrained and untrained men and boys. Subjects included 65 males: untrained boys (n=18), endurance-trained boys (n=12), untrained men (n=20) and endurance-trained men (n=15). Maximal isometric torque and rate of torque development were measured using an isokinetic dynamometer (Biodex III), and neuromuscular activation was assessed using surface electromyography (SEMG). Muscle strength and activation were assessed in the dominant arm and leg, in a cross-balanced fashion during elbow and knee flexion and extension. The main variables included peak torque (T), RTD, rate of muscle activation (Q30), Electro-mechanical delay (EMD), time to peak RTD and co-activation index. Age differences in T, RTD, electro-mechanical delay (EMD) and rate of muscle activation (Q30) were consistently observed in the four contractions tested. Additionally, Q30, nonnalized for peak EMG amplitude, was consistently higher in the endurancetrained men compared with untrained men. Co-activation index was generally low in all contractions. For example, during maximal voluntary isometric knee extension, men were stronger, had higher RTD and Q30, whether absolute or nonnalized values were used. Moreover, boys exhibited longer EMD (64.8 ± 18.5 ms vs. 56.6 ± 15.3 ms, for boys and men respectively) and time to peak RTD (112.4 ± 33.4 ms vs. 100.8 ± 39.1 ms for boys and men, respectively). In addition, endurance-trained men had lower T compared with untrained men, yet they also exhibited significantly higher nonnalized Q30 (1.9 ± 1.2 vs. 1.1 ± 0.7 for endurance-trained men and untrained men, respectively). No training effect was apparent in the boys. In conclusion, the findings demonstrate muscle strength and activation to be lower in children compared with adults, regardless of training status. The higher Q30 of the endurance-trained men suggests neural adaptations, similar to those expected in response to resistance training. The lower peak torque may su9gest a higher relative involvement oftype I muscle fibres in the endurance-trained athletes. Future research is required to better understand the effect of growth and development on muscle strength and activation patterns during dynamic and sub-maximal isometric contractions. Furthennore, training intervention studies could reveal the effects of endurance training during different developmental stages, as well as in different muscle groups.

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During the 1950’s, the Rittenhouse family of Vineland in the Niagara Peninsula opened a craft store and studio. Within a short period of time, they realized that resources for the craft of rug hooking were in demand and they began to build their business around this niche. Edna Rittenhouse, the mother, was the wool dyer; Margaret Rowan, the daughter, was the pattern designer; Ted Rowan, the son-in-law, changed careers and became the manager of the family business. The 1960’s were a prosperous time, not only in the Niagara Peninsula, but also for the Rittenhouse business. Edna Rittenhouse had been hooking rugs for decades but she and her family worked at developing and sharing newer techniques with newer materials. Shading manuals were authored and published; students became teachers; creativity abounded in the demand for and the creation of new designs. Instead of using woolen yarn, they were using pure woolen fabric; instead of using a standard cutter, they began using a uniquely designed cutter; instead of using frames, they employed a table top method. The new material and technique resulted in a rug with a smooth, uniform texture and a soft nap. Since many crafters belonged to crafters guilds, Margaret and Ted Rowan began promoting the idea of a guild for rug hookers and in time the Ontario Hooking Craft Guild was also a reality. A joint project between Chatelaine magazine and the Rittermere studio for Canada’s centennial year of 1967 was extremely well received within the circle of hooking crafters and the Rittermere Farm Craft Studio became a North American landmark for crafters. From this point onward the studio had a large customer base not only in North America but also overseas. The studio remained popular until 1984 when Margaret and Ted Rowan decided to retire. The Rittermere name has been preserved in the name of Rittermere-Hurst-Field which is a similar business located in Aurora which is just north of Toronto.

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This thesis explores the representation of Swinging London in three examples of 1960s British cinema: Blowup (Michelangelo Antonioni, 1966), Smashing Time (Desmond Davis, 1967) and Performance (Donald Cammell and Nicolas Roeg, 1970). It suggests that the films chronologically signify the evolution, commodification and dissolution of the Swinging London era. The thesis explores how the concept of Swinging London is both critiqued and perpetuated in each film through the use of visual tropes: the reconstruction of London as a cinematic space; the Pop photographer; the dolly; representations of music performance and fashion; the appropriation of signs and symbols associated with the visual culture of Swinging London. Using fashion, music performance, consumerism and cultural symbolism as visual narratives, each film also explores the construction of youth identity through the representation of manufactured and mediated images. Ultimately, these films reinforce Swinging London as a visual economy that circulates media images as commodities within a system of exchange. With this in view, the signs and symbols that comprise the visual culture of Swinging London are as central and significant to the cultural era as their material reality. While they attempt to destabilize prevailing representations of the era through the reproduction and exchange of such symbols, Blowup, Smashing Time, and Performance nevertheless contribute to the nostalgia for Swinging London in larger cultural memory.

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The Sovereign Great Priority of Canada is a national Masonic organization which consists of seventy-six preceptories that are organized within fifteen districts. The no.8 Plantagenet, St. Catharines is listed under the Hamilton District .The warrant (document issued to authorize formation of a lodge) was issued to this preceptory on November 14th, 1866. This preceptory is still active and meets on the first Monday of every month excepting June, July, August and September. with information from the website Sovereign Great Priory of Canada Meaning of the Tyler/Tiler’s Register: Historically speaking, medieval craft guilds guarded their trade secrets. They placed a guard outside their doors. This person would generally be a junior apprentice who was not entitled to attend trade discussions. The Masons continued this use of doorkeepers. In 1723 in The First Book of Constitutions Dr. James Anderson mentioned “another brother to look after the door, but shall not be a member of it” and in regulation XXVI charged the use of “doorkeepers”. In the minutes of June 8, 1732 this person’s specific title was referred to as “the Tyler”. The word “tyler” appeared in print in new regulation XXVI of the 1738 Second Book of Constitutions. The Masonic ritual of today calls him “a brother without the door”. The Tyler is usually a Past Master who is very knowledgeable in Masonic law and customs. He does not need to be a member of the lodge. He greets brethren and assures that they are “duly qualified”. He gives the first impression of the lodge and insures that visitors and members sign the Tyler’s Register. with information from www.masonicsites.org

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The present thesis outlines the preparation of a 7-membered guanidine. Initial efforts to obtain this guanidine via 2-chloro-1,3-dimethylimidazolinium chloride induced ring forming chemistry failed to provide the target in a reproducible fashion. Changing strategies, we were able to obtain the desired guanidine through CuCl mediated amination of a 7-membered thiourea intermediate to arrive at the target. In addition, the catalytic activity of this compound was evaluated in a vinylogous aldol reaction of dibromofuranone and four aromatic aldehydes to generate chiral γ-butenolides with modest to good enantiomeric excess. It was found that electron-poor aldehydes resulted in higher, 81% ee, whereas electron rich aldehydes led to low, 41% ee, levels of enantiomeric excess.

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The unnatural threo-6-acetoxy-5-hexadecanolide and the natural mosquito oviposition pheromone erythro-6-acetoxy-5-hexadecanolide were synthesized in a diastereodivergent fashion in 44% and 33% overall yield respectively from 5-bromovaleric acid and undecanal. The key step utilized a chemoenzymatic epoxidation-lactonization of a naturally available fatty acid to form the 6-hydroxy-5-hexadecanolide core.17 The epoxidation strategy was later adapted to allow for an asymmetric synthesis. Shi epoxidation afforded highly enantioenriched (5R, 6R)-6-hydroxyhexadecanolide (er = 10) in 70 % overall yield. Other derivatives of the chiral ketone catalyst were also screened. Finally, attempts were made to obtain the correct stereochemistry at C(6) of the target with a dynamic kinetic transformation using lipase and a transfer hydrogenation catalyst. Epimerization of the lactol with the transfer hydrogenation catalyst was successful, but lipase mediated reactions halted at <10 % conversion.

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Since the knowledge-based economy has become a fashion over the last few decades, the concept of the professional learning community (PLC) has started being accepted by educational institutions and governments as an effective framework to improve teachers’ collective work and collaboration. The purpose of this research was to compare and contrast the implementations of PLCs between Beijing schools and Ontario schools from principals’ personal narratives. In order to discover the lessons and widen the scope to understand the PLC, this research applied qualitative design to collect the data from two principal participants in each location by semistructured interviews. Four themes emerged: (a) structure and technology, (b) identity and climate, (c) task and support, and (d) change and challenge. This research found that the root of the characteristics of the PLCs in Beijing and Ontario was the different existing teaching and learning systems as well as the test systems. Teaching Research Groups (TRGs) is one of the systems that help Chinese to organize routine time and input resources to improve teachers’ professional development. However, Canadian schools lack a similar system that guarantees the time and resources. Moreover, standardized test plays different roles in China and Canada. In China, standardized tests, such as the college entrance examination, are regarded as the important purpose of education, whereas Ontario principals saw the Education Quality and Accountability Office (EQAO) as a tool rather than a primary purpose. These two main differences influenced principals’ beliefs, attitudes, strategies, and practices. The implications based on this discovery provide new perspectives for principals, teachers, policy makers, and scholars to widen and deepen the research and practice of the PLC.

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ABSTRACT Photosystem II (PSII) of oxygenic photosynthesis has the unique ability to photochemically oxidize water, extracting electrons from water to result in the evolution of oxygen gas while depositing these electrons to the rest of the photosynthetic machinery which in turn reduces CO2 to carbohydrate molecules acting as fuel for the cell. Unfortunately, native PSII is unstable and not suitable to be used in industrial applications. Consequently, there is a need to reverse-engineer the water oxidation photochemical reactions of PSII using solution-stable proteins. But what does it take to reverse-engineer PSII’s reactions? PSII has the pigment with the highest oxidation potential in nature known as P680. The high oxidation of P680 is in fact the driving force for water oxidation. P680 is made up of a chlorophyll a dimer embedded inside the relatively hydrophobic transmembrane environment of PSII. In this thesis, the electrostatic factors contributing to the high oxidation potential of P680 are described. PSII oxidizes water in a specialized metal cluster known as the Oxygen Evolving Complex (OEC). The pathways that water can take to enter the relatively hydrophobic region of PSII are described as well. A previous attempt to reverse engineer PSII’s reactions using the protein scaffold of E. coli’s Bacterioferritin (BFR) existed. The oxidation potential of the pigment used for the BFR ‘reaction centre’ was measured and the protein effects calculated in a similar fashion to how P680 potentials were calculated in PSII. The BFR-RC’s pigment oxidation potential was found to be 0.57 V, too low to oxidize water or tyrosine like PSII. We suggest that the observed tyrosine oxidation in BRF-RC could be driven by the ZnCe6 di-cation. In order to increase the efficiency of iii tyrosine oxidation, and ultimately oxidize water, the first potential of ZnCe6 would have to attain a value in excess of 0.8 V. The results were used to develop a second generation of BFR-RC using a high oxidation pigment. The hypervalent phosphorous porphyrin forms a radical pair that can be observed using Transient Electron Paramagnetic Resonance (TR-EPR). Finally, the results from this thesis are discussed in light of the development of solar fuel producing systems.