864 resultados para Fashion and sustainability


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Drosophila suzukii (Diptera: Drosophilidae), conhecida como drosófila da asa manchada (SWD) ou suzuki, é uma praga quarentenária nativa da Ásia em expansão mundial na atualidade. Em 2008, SWD foi coletada nos EUA (Califórnia) e, desde então, registrada em outros estados americanos (WALSH et al. 2011) e também na Europa (CINI et al. 2012). No Brasil, a praga foi detectada no ano de 2014 ocasionando danos na ordem de 30% em cultivos de morango no Estado do Rio Grande do Sul (SANTOS, 2014a). Os danos são causados pela alimentação das larvas em frutos ainda fixos às plantas, e pela introdução de patógenos no local da oviposição. O fruto atacado entra em colapso exibindo intensa perda de líquidos. Entre os hospedeiros da SWD estão as fruteiras que produzem frutos de epiderme fina como, por exemplo, os pequenos frutos: morango, framboesa, amora-preta e o mirtilo. Em se tratando de uma espécie recentemente introduzida no Brasil, poucas são as informações sobre a eficiência de atrativos para monitoramento das populações. O vinagre de maçã tem sido usado em vários estudos científicos, sendo até sugerido como atrativo para o monitoramento da espécie no Brasil (SANTOS, 2014b). Apesar disto, a atratividade é apontada como de curta duração e de baixa seletividade. Assim, Santos (2016) recomenda, em substituição ao vinagre de maçã, o uso de um atrativo à base de fermento biológico, açúcar e água, o qual tem se mostrado promissor e seletivo para monitoramento de SWD. Nos 24 EUA, após extensa avaliação laboratorial e de campo, foram isolados componentes químicos essenciais da atratividade de D. Suzukii, os quais estão sendo produzidos e comercializados em forma de dispenser, com os nomes comerciais de Pherocon® SWD e Scentry® SWD. Como inexistem informações sobre a eficiência e a seletividade de tais produtos para o monitoramento da suzuki no Brasil, foi planejado o presente estudo, cujo objetivo foi o de avaliar a captura e a seletividade de atrativos e de misturas no monitoramento de D. suzukii em pomar de framboesa no município de Vacaria, RS.

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Il progetto di tesi nasce dalla volontà di far luce sul rapporto tra il medium fotografico e la nozione di nuova oscenità, teorizzata e disseminata nei suoi scritti da Jean Baudrillard. Nozione che – se intesa nell’accezione proposta dal filosofo francese, ovvero l’oscenità del visibile, del troppo visibile, del più visibile del visibile – ben si adatta a dettagliare i concetti di trasparenza e di visibilità peculiari della società attuale, costantemente impegnata nel mettere a nudo se stessa attraverso i social media in nome della cosiddetta ideologia della post-privacy. Incoraggiando una continua violazione della sfera del segreto, tale ideologia favorirebbe, infatti, la progressiva diminuzione dello scarto tra ciò che può essere reso di dominio pubblico e ciò che invece, tradizionalmente, sarebbe dovuto appartenere all’ambito del privato. Un andamento generale della cultura, quello appena delineato, che si è imposto capillarmente a cavallo di millennio, accelerato dalla nascita del World Wide Web, del quale la fotografia riesce a farsi promotrice oltre che sommo interprete, contribuendo – anche in virtù di un’innovata condizione tecnologica– al compimento della visibilità e della trasparenza totale. Nel corso della trattazione, la nozione “aggiornata” di osceno sarà, dunque, assurta a strumento euristico utile a tracciare gli svolgimenti paralleli della pratica fotografica nei campi delle arti visive, della moda e dei social media, in un arco temporale che va dall’inizio degli anni Novanta a oggi. Uno strumento attraverso cui connettere autori di riferimento, rileggerne alcuni e candidarne di nuovi tra quanti, allargando il “campo del fotografabile” teorizzato da Pierre Bourdieu, profanano la soglia del privato e portano alla ribalta i risvolti banali e ordinari della quotidianità, fino a quelli intimi, tragici, inquietanti, perturbanti o addirittura nefandi, favorendo così la concretizzazione di quel “bordello senza muri” che secondo Marshall McLuhan è il mondo nell’età fotografica.

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The current research project focuses on the analysis of the critical issues of industrial heritage management in Italy and the preservation of organizational history within the reuse projects of former industrial sites. The organizational and managerial perspective is crucial on two levels. Firstly, it is important in the analysis of the original significance of the site, and in particular its organizational history, and its conservation within the new regeneration strategy. Secondly, it is crucial at the phase of management of reuse projects and its feasibility and sustainability analysis. Based on the analysis of the literature, a unique classification of the reuse strategies that can be implemented in order to regenerate former industrial sites has been formulated. The exploratory research thus adapts a multiple case study design. Eight Italian case studies have been chosen, one for each type of regeneration strategy. Each case study is explored as a stand-alone entity through the analysis of the local differences and idiosyncrasies of the specific context, the factors that stood behind the choice of the reuse strategy and the way the reuse project evolved through the years. Then, the current management of each reuse project is analysed. The narration and musealization of the organizational history is investigated through the spatial dimension, the level of content and the level of expression. Secondly, the case studies are compared through a cross-case analysis from three different perspectives: issues on the phase of preparation and implementation of the reuse projects, critical issues behind the current management of new projects and issues on the ways of preservation and narration of organizational history within the new project. The research shows that all regeneration strategies are affected by the conflict between preservation and change, by the issue of materiality and selectivity.

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The modern industrial environment is populated by a myriad of intelligent devices that collaborate for the accomplishment of the numerous business processes in place at the production sites. The close collaboration between humans and work machines poses new interesting challenges that industry must overcome in order to implement the new digital policies demanded by the industrial transition. The Industry 5.0 movement is a companion revolution of the previous Industry 4.0, and it relies on three characteristics that any industrial sector should have and pursue: human centrality, resilience, and sustainability. The application of the fifth industrial revolution cannot be completed without moving from the implementation of Industry 4.0-enabled platforms. The common feature found in the development of this kind of platform is the need to integrate the Information and Operational layers. Our thesis work focuses on the implementation of a platform addressing all the digitization features foreseen by the fourth industrial revolution, making the IT/OT convergence inside production plants an improvement and not a risk. Furthermore, we added modular features to our platform enabling the Industry 5.0 vision. We favored the human centrality using the mobile crowdsensing techniques and the reliability and sustainability using pluggable cloud computing services, combined with data coming from the crowd support. We achieved important and encouraging results in all the domains in which we conducted our experiments. Our IT/OT convergence-enabled platform exhibits the right performance needed to satisfy the strict requirements of production sites. The multi-layer capability of the framework enables the exploitation of data not strictly coming from work machines, allowing a more strict interaction between the company, its employees, and customers.

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The concepts involved in sustainable textile fashion, demanding good knowledge about raw materials, processes, end use properties and circuits amongst others, are able to determine the way the textile product is designed and the behavior of the consumer, regarding life style and buying decisions. The textile product`s life integrates raw materials, their processing, distribution, use by the consumer and destination of the product after useful lifetime, this is, his complete life cycle. It is very important to recognize the power of the consumer to influence parameters related to sustainability, namely when he decides how, when and why he buys and afterwards by the attitudes taken during and after use. The conscious act of consumption involves ethical, ecological and technical knowledge in which the concern is overall lifecycle of the fashion product and not exclusively aesthetic and symbolic values strongly related with its ephemeral nature. The present work proposes the classification of textile products by means of an innovative label aiming to establish a rating related to the Life of Fashion Products, by using parameters considered with especial impact in lifecycle, as textile fibers, processing conditions, generated wastes, commercialization circuits, durability and cleaning procedures. This label for sustainable fashion products aims to assist the stakeholders with informed attitudes and correct decisions in order to promote the objectives of sustainable fashion near designers, consumers and industrial experts.

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Globalization and the developments of supply chain have made inexpensive labor and the low production costs of developing countries available to businesses worldwide. Unfortunately, these developments have also led to the exploitation of human and natural resources. The increasing supply of cheap and fashionable clothing has created a contradiction between consumers’ concerns for sustainability and their purchase behavior in the fashion industry. Since the uncovering of several sweatshop scandals in the 1980’s and 1990’s ethical fashion brands have started to emerge. Ethical fashion has sparked the interest of consumers and studies have shown promising positive attitudes towards it. However, these attitudes have failed to translate into action and purchase behavior of ethical fashion has not reached the expectations. In order to translate the positive attitudes into buying companies must understand consumer’s motivations and reasons behind the purchase decision. The objective of this study is to understand the antecedents behind young consumer’s purchase intention of ethical fashion. The study is based on the theory of planned behavior which has been widely used to study consumer behavior and purchase decisions. The theory has also been used in ethical decision-making and fashion context before. According to the theory, in order to understand purchase intentions consumer’s attitudes toward buying ethical fashion were studied. The theory also states that attitudes are formed from beliefs, thus, consumer’s beliefs about the fashion industry were studied. To contribute to existing research, the effect of sweatshop issues and environmental issues were compared. The data was collected from university students (n=617) with an online survey. The results were analyzed by statistical methods and they revealed that young Finnish consumers hold positive attitudes towards buying ethical fashion as well as positive purchase intentions of ethical fashion. A strong relationship was found between positive attitudes and positive purchase intentions. Also, the more negative consumers’ beliefs of the fashion industry were the more positive their attitudes toward buying ethical fashion were. In contradiction to previous research this study revealed that environmental issues had greater effect on attitudes than sweatshop issues. Interesting differences between consumers were found depending on their field of education. Students from humanities and social sciences held the most negative beliefs as well as most positive attitudes and purchase intentions of ethical fashion.

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What is the connection between the hotel and fashion industry? The authors aim to answer this question approaching from different aspects. It can be stated that both of these industries are harmful for the environment from the point of sustainability. On the other hand there is a common solution from the viewpoint of sustainability: the uniforms and the primary materials, which are used during the production, such as the man-made and natural fibres. In our research the authors introduce the main problems which are related to the fashion industry, especially focusing on producing fibres from the viewpoint of sustainability. We introduce the solution for the fashion industry based on the literature and also present the emerging problems and solutions of the hotel industry based on the best practices. As a part of it, we are introducing the best practices from the hotel industry, where environmentally friendly uniforms are used. Finally, as a primary research part of our paper, we interpret the results of a Hungarian case-study.

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Scientific literacy can be considered as a new demand of post-industrial society. It seems necessary in order to foster education for sustainability throughout students` academic careers. Universities striving to teach sustainability are being challenged to integrate a holistic perspective into a traditional undergraduate curriculum, which aims at specialization. This new integrative, inter- and transdisciplinary epistemological approach is necessary to cultivate autonomous citizenship, i.e., that each citizen be prepared to understand and participate in discussions about the complex contemporary issues posed by post-industrial society. This paper presents an epistemological framework to show the role of scientific literacy in fostering education for sustainability. We present a set of 26 collaborative concept maps (CCmaps) in order to illustrate an instance of theory becoming practice. During a required course for first-year undergraduate students (ACH 0011, Natural Sciences), climate change was presented and discussed in broad perspective by using CCmaps. We present students` CCmaps to show how they use concepts from quantitative and literacy disciplines to deal with the challenges posed by the need of achieving a sustainable development. (C) 2009 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

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Research conducted on biomass for Ulcos (""Ultra-Low CO(2) Steelmaking"" European Integrated Project) has progressively focused on charcoal supply from tropical eucalyptus plantations. The sustainability of such plantations is being investigated from the viewpoint of their carbon, water and nutrient budgets: they must all be neutral or positive. Field research is producing results at the tree or stand level in several sites of Congo and Brazil, while a spatial model is developed to identify the conditions of biomass neutrality at the scale of the forest ecosystem. The productivity of biomass has been analyzed through the description of practices along the various supply-schemes that competitively feed the steel industry in Brazil and identification of bottlenecks for further expansion.

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This paper reviews a wide range of tools for comprehensive sustainability assessments at whole tourism destinations, covering socio-cultural, economic and environmental issues. It considers their strengths, weaknesses and site specific applicability. It is intended to facilitate their selection (and combination where necessary). Tools covered include Sustainability Indicators, Environmental Impact Assessment, Life Cycle Assessment, Environmental Audits, Ecological Footprints, Multi-Criteria Analysis and Adaptive Environmental Assessment. Guidelines for evaluating their suitability for specific sites and situations are given as well as examples of their use.

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This study shows the creation of a graphical representation after the application of a questionnaire to evaluate the indicative factors of a sustainable telemedicine and telehealth center in Sao Paulo, Brazil. We categorized the factors into seven domain areas: institutional, functional, economic-financial, renewal, academic-scientific, partnerships, and social welfare, which were plotted into a graphical representation. The developed graph was shown to be useful when used in the same institution over a long period and complemented with secondary information from publications, archives, and administrative documents to support the numerical indicators. Its use may contribute toward monitoring the factors that define telemedicine and telehealth center sustainability. When systematically applied, it may also be useful for identifying the specific characteristics of the telemedicine and telehealth center, to support its organizational development.

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