Offshore stereo measurements of gravity waves: classical epipolar and novel variational techniques

Stereo video techniques are effective for estimating the space-time wave dynamics over an area of the ocean. Indeed, a stereo camera view allows retrieval of both spatial and temporal data whose statistical content is richer than that of time series data retrieved from point wave probes. Classical epipolar techniques and modern variational methods are reviewed to reconstruct the sea surface from the stereo pairs sequentially in time. Current improvements of the variational methods are presented.

Space-time Reconstruction of Oceanic Sea States via Variational Stereo Methods

We present a remote sensing observational method for the measurement of the spatio-temporal dynamics of ocean waves. Variational techniques are used to recover a coherent space-time reconstruction of oceanic sea states given stereo video imagery. The stereoscopic reconstruction problem is expressed in a variational optimization framework. There, we design an energy functional whose minimizer is the desired temporal sequence of wave heights. The functional combines photometric observations as well as spatial and temporal regularizers. A nested iterative scheme is devised to numerically solve, via 3-D multigrid methods, the system of partial differential equations resulting from the optimality condition of the energy functional. The output of our method is the coherent, simultaneous estimation of the wave surface height and radiance at multiple snapshots. We demonstrate our algorithm on real data collected off-shore. Statistical and spectral analysis are performed. Comparison with respect to an existing sequential method is analyzed.

Recuerdos de Pedro

Semblanza humana y de la obra de Pedro Suárez Bores, catedrático de Puertos de la Universidad Politécnica de Madrid desde 1968 a 1999 y profesor emérito de la citada universidad. Dos de las lunas de las hojas caídas del año dos mil diez fueron sombrías. En la primera de ellas, perdí a una de mis referencias humanas, un bastión en mi formación como persona, en mi forma de ser y comportarme, mi padre. En la otra, se fue alguien básico en mi profesión y en la forma de entender la ingeniería del mar, Pedro. Estas líneas pretenden ser un homenaje, una semblanza y un recordatorio de casi treinta años de conversaciones y vivencias entre los dos

Coastal shapes. Geentic clasification 1973 - 2010

An analysis of a stretch of coastline shows multiple alterations through environmental climate actions. The narrow, fragile line displays singularities due to three basic causes. The first is the discontinuity in feed or localised loss of solid coastal material. Called massics, their simplest examples are deltas and undersea canyons. The second is due to a brusque change in the alignment of the shoreline’s edge, headlands, groins, harbour and defence works. Given the name of geometric singularities, their simplest uses are artificial beaches in the shelter of a straight groin or spits. The third is due to littoral dynamics, emerged or submerged obstacles which diffract and refract wave action, causing a change in the sea level’s super-elevation in breaker areas. Called dynamics, the simplest examples are salients, tombolos and shells. Discussion of the causes giving rise to variations in the coastline and formation of singularities is the raison d’être of investigation, using actual cases to check the suitability of the classification proposed, the tangential or differential action of waves on the coastal landscape in addition to possible simple, compound and complex shapes detected in nature, both in erosion and deposit processes

Practical case with regard to applying the functional and environmental method to low crest level, detached breakwaters

The research work as presented in this article covers the design of detached breakwaters since they constitute a type of coastal defence work with which to combat many of the erosion problems found on beaches in a stable, sustainable fashion. The main aim of this work is to formulate a functional and environmental (but not structural) design method, enabling the fundamental characteristics of a detached breakwater to be defined as a function of the effect it is wished to induce on the coast, and taking into account variables of a different nature (climate, geomorphology and geometry) influencing the changes the shoreline undergoes after its construction. With this article, it is intended to submit the final result of the investigation undertaken, applying the detached breakwater design method as developed to solving a practical case. Thus it may be shown how the method enables a detached breakwater’s geometric pre-sizing to be tackled at a place on the coast with certain climate, geomorphology and littoral dynamic characteristics, first setting the final state of equilibrium it is wanted to obtain therein after its construction.

Methodology for the design of offshore wind farms

Although still in an early stage, offshore wind development is now characterized by a boom process. This leads to the necessity of applying an integral management model for the design of offshore wind facilities, being the purpose of the model to achieve technical, economical and environmental viability, all within a sustainable development framework. The foregoing led to the research project exposed in this paper, consisting of drawing up an offshore wind farms methodological proposal; this methodology has a global and/or general nature or point of view whilst searching for optimization of the overall process of operations leading to the design of this type of installations and establishing collated theoretical bases for the further development of management tools. This methodological proposal follows a classical engineering thought scheme: it begins with the alternatives study, and ends with the detailed design. With this in mind, the paper includes the following sections: introduction, methodology used for the research project, conditioning factors, methodological proposal for the design of offshore wind farms, checking the methodological proposal, and conclusions

Offshore Wind Farms: Foundations and influence on the Littoral Processes

Offshore wind farms are beginning to form part of coastal and marine landscapes located in dynamic surroundings. An integral management model must therefore be applied to achieve not only technical and economic viability of the project but also respect for the environment. Amongst other aspects, the latter calls for an analysis of the possible impact these facilities may have on littoral processes and this requires the differences between littoral processes prior and subsequent to the facility’s construction to be known. The maritime climate, the composition of the coast, lay-out distribution and characteristics of the facility’s components need to be known, particularly foundations as they are the main obstacles waves and currents meet. This article first addresses different aspects related to an offshore wind farm’s influence on the analysis of how it affects littoral dynamics and, because of their importance in this study, pays special attention to foundations. Coastal erosion due to this type of facility is then examined. The main conclusion of this article is that, whilst there are certain opinions claiming the coast is not affected by the presence of this kind of facility since the distance from location to coast and between wind turbine generators themselves is long, the impact must be analysed in each specific case, at least until experience proves otherwise and criteria are adopted in this respect.

Coastal Urban Flood Resislience versus Climate Change

Processes of founding and expanding cities in coastal areas have undergone great changes over time driven by environmental conditions. Coastal settlements looked for places above flood levels and away from swamps and other wetlands whenever possible. As populations grew, cities were extending trying to avoid low and wet lands. No city has been able to limit its growth. The risk of flooding can never be eliminated, but only reduced to the extent possible. Flooding of coastal areas is today dramatically attributed to eustasic sea level rise caused by global climate change. This can be inaccurate. Current climate change is generating an average sea level upward trend, but other regional and local factors result in this trend being accentuated in some places or attenuated, and even reversed, in others. Then, the intensity and frequency of coastal flooding around the planet, although not so much as a unique result of this general eustasic elevation, but rather of the superposition of marine and crustal dynamic elements, the former also climate-related, which give rise to a temporary raising in average sea level in the short term. Since the Little Ice Age the planet has been suffering a global warming change leading to sea level rise. The idea of being too obeying to anthropogenic factors may be attributed to Arrhenius (1896), though it is of much later highlight after the sixties of the last century. Never before, the human factor had been able of such an influence on climate. However, other types of changes in sea levels became apparent, resulting from vertical movements of the crust, modifications of sea basins due to continents fracturing, drifting and coming together, or to different types of climate patterns. Coastal zones are then doubly susceptible to floods. Precipitation immediately triggers pluvial flooding. If it continues upland or when snow and glaciers melt eventually fluvial flooding can occur. The urban development presence represents modifying factors. Additional interference is caused by river and waste water drainage systems. Climate also influences sea levels in coastal areas, where tides as well as the structure and dynamic of the geoid and its crust come into play. From the sea, waters can flood and break or push back berms and other coastline borders. The sea level, controlling the mouth of the main channel of the basin's drainage system, is ultimately what governs flood levels. A temporary rise in sea level acts as a dam at the mouth. Even in absence of that global change, so, floods are likely going to increase in many urban coastal areas. Some kind of innovative methodologies and practices should be needed to get more flood resilience cities

Ground maritime structure interaction. Recent failures in inner gravity constructions on the Spanish Coastline

A maritime construction is usually a slender line in the ocean.It is usual to see just its narrow surface strip and not analyse the large amount of submerged material the latter is supporting.Without doubt,it is the ground to which a notable load is transmitted in an environment subjected to periodic,alternating stresses,dynamic forces which the sea's media constitute. Both an outer and inner maritime construction works in a complex fashion.A granular solid(breakwater)breathes with the incident wave flow,dissipating part of the wave energy between its gaps.The backflow tries to extract the different items from the solid block,setting a balance between effective and neutral tensions that follow Terzaghui's principle. On some occasions,fluidification of the armour layer has caused the breakwater to collapse(Sines,Portugal,February 1978).On others,siphoning or liquefaction of sand supporting monoliths(vertical breakwaters)lead them to destruction or collapse(New Barcelona Harbour Mouth,Spain,November 2001). This is why the ground-force-structure interaction is a complicated analysis with joint design tools still in an incipient state. The purpose of this article is to describe two singular failures in inner maritime constructions in Spain deriving from ground problems(Malaga,July 2004and Barcelona,January 2007).They occurred recently and the causes are the subject of reflection and analysis.

Diques verticales con láminas pendulares para amortiguación del oleaje incidente y extracción de energía, DILAPE. Revisión del Estado del Arte y Modelado Físico

Análisis de los criterios de Osanai y Watabe para la obtención de energía en diques verticales, siguiendo criterios de péndulo simple, tanto directo como indirecto en mares sin marea y reduciendo la cota de coronación

Foundations for offshoe wind farms

Análisis de las cimentaciones de los parques eólicos marinos situados en aguas de transición y en indefinidas, tipo gravedad; rozamiento, tipo pilotes; plataformas y flotantes, estudiando el fenómeno conjunto de interacción suelo - estructura y socavación

La gestión integrada sostenible del litoral en la actualidad

En nuestros días, en países ubicados en latitudes medias con facahada marítima y estabilidad político-social el litoral es objeto de diversas presiones e influencias por lo que su equilibrio, que es de naturaleza frágil, complicada y variable, se ve amenazado. En estos paises son múltiples los intereses que confluyen en él, lo que hace que sea objeto de numerosas presiones económicas y políticas. Por ello, su gestión adecuada a uno de sus objetivos que se ha planteado la Unión Europea, intentando prevenir la creciente erosión favorecida por la presión humana (edificaciones, infraestructuras, etc) y la amenaza creciente de la posible influencia del calentamiento global con su efecto de cambio climático global, y muy discutible efecto sobre el litoral (cambio de régimen ciertos y variaciones de nivel ficticias). La gestión integrada sostenible del litoral es, por lo tanto, una de las herramientas que se presentan como más eficaz en la actualidad, unida a la gestión de riesgo, y a la evaluación ambiental estratégica (SEA). El adecuado uso de los Sistemas de Información Geográfica constituye una herramienta básica para una gestión integrada del litoral real tecnificada, en vez de una gestión basada en dogmas discutibles no cuestionados. De todo ello se plantea una perspectiva actualizada en el presente trabajo.

Urban Coastal Flooding and Climate Change

Dentro del marco del Proyecto Europeo Smartest se presenta la publicación de las inundaciones en ciudades próximas a la costa y la influencia del cambio climático en la interface fluvio - marina con las condiciones ambientales que afectan al comportamiento evolutivo de la ciudad

Metodología de evaluación de las reglas de operación de embalses en avenidas

El avance de la presión antrópica sobre las márgenes de los cauces, y la creciente dificultad técnica, política y social para ejecutar nuevos proyectos de grandes presas, promueve la necesidad de utilizar más eficientemente los sistemas de control de avenidas existentes. En el presente trabajo se presenta una metodología de análisis para evaluar y comparar las estrategias de gestión de embalses, considerando su operación individual, a fin de establecer la más adecuada. En particular se comparan dos modos de gestión ante situación de avenidas: el Método de Evaluación Volumétrica (MEV) desarrollado por Girón (1988), de amplia difusión en España, y un modelo de optimización de la gestión mediante Programación Lineal Entera Mixta (PLEM). Para ello se ha implementado un entorno de cálculo con estructura modular. El primer módulo permite generar un conjunto representativo de hidrogramas de entrada a los embalses mediante simulación de Monte Carlo. Luego, dos módulos que funcionan en paralelo simulan la gestión del embalse según las dos estrategias mencionadas (MEV y PLEM). Finalmente, se evalúa el comportamiento de ambas estrategias ante el conjunto de solicitaciones hidrológicas generado. Se propone el empleo del Índice de Riesgo Global (I1), que pondera el resultado de la estrategia de gestión frente a un conjunto de hidrogramas de solicitación. Dicho indicador tiene en cuenta el daño esperado debido a los caudales máximos vertidos y el riesgo para la presa debido a los niveles máximos alcanzados en el embalse. Para ello se analiza la función de distribución de probabilidad de las dos variables (máximo caudal vertido y máximo nivel alcanzado) para la población de hidrogramas analizada. El modelo PLEM se calibra empleando el índice I1. Este mismo índice es utilizado para comparar ambas estrategias, entendiendo como la más adecuada aquella que tenga asociado el menor I1. Este sistema de análisis se aplicó a tres embalses de la cuenca del río Segura, con diferentes características en lo referente al tipo y capacidad de aliviadero, volumen de embalse y de resguardo. En los tres casos se han obtenido mejores resultados con el modelo PLEM que con el modelo MEV, tanto en lo concerniente a caudales máximos vertidos como a los niveles máximos alcanzados, para todo el rango de avenidas analizado. Sin embargo, la diferencia entre ambas estrategias no es muy significativa y el MEV presenta características que lo hacen más adecuado para su empleo en tiempo real

Adaptabilidad al Cambio Climático: Las inundaciones y la Adaptación Urbana. El fenómeno de la inundación

Análisis del clima y el territorio, los factores oceánicos, los factores humanos, los tipos de inundaciones urbanas y sus daños, recuperación, adaptación y resiliencia