Luxurious Merovingian Textiles Excavated from Burials in the Saint Denis Basilica, France, 6th-7th century

A new examination of the textile fragments found in the Merovingian burials in the basilica of Saint Denis, near Paris, has recently underscored the diversity of fabrics used to make garments in which members of the royal court were buried. Among them, some woolens of fine quality had been dyed with indigotin. The most astonishing fibre found belongs to a mixed textile (not skin) with beaver fibers and wool. Silks contained shellfish purple and in one case kermes? Two dyestuffs associated with royalty and privilege. Along with this was large number of gold threads, probably produced locally and that were used in tablet-woven borders or for embroideries. In addition, several figured silks, of oriental origin, testify to the importance of this "foreign" material and the taste for textiles woven with complex techniques and probably what had originally had beautiful designs. Although none of these designs have been preserved and many colors have been greatly damaged, the technical characteristics of the remnants indicate proveniences as far as Byzantium, Sassanid Persia and the Chinese court. Such precious textiles show the high social status and political power of the Merovingian court, a testament to their ability to access such luxurious and costly textiles through diplomacy and/or trade with other powerful empires. The examination of these rare textiles along with other fine silks and luxury objects from the same period found in France expand our view of the fundamental role of textiles in the political sphere of this early period of European history.

Change in permeation rates of acids and bases through limited use protective fabrics after repeated wash cycles

The primary objective of this study was to determine if there is a change in permeation rates when limited use protective fabrics undergo repeated exposure and wash cycles. The null hypothesis of this study was that no substantial change in permeation takes place after the test material is subjected to repeated contact with a strong acid or base and has undergone repeated wash cycles. ^ The materials tested were DuPont Tychem® CPF 3 and CPF 4 fabrics. The challenge chemicals in this study were ninety-eight percent sulfuric acid and fifty percent sodium hydroxide. Permeation testing was conducted utilizing ASTM designation F739-99a Standard Test Method for Resistance of Protective Clothing Materials to Permeation by Liquids or Gases Under Conditions of Continuous Contact. ^ In this study, no change in permeation rates of either challenge chemical was detected for CPF 3 or CPF 4 limited use protective fabrics after repeated exposure and wash cycles. Certain unexposed areas of the fabric suffered structural degradation unrelated to exposure and which may be due to multiple washings.^

Failure locus of polypropylene nonwoven fabrics under in-plane biaxial deformation

The failure locus, the characteristics of the stress–strain curve and the damage localization patterns were analyzed in a polypropylene nonwoven fabric under in-plane biaxial deformation. The analysis was carried out by means of a homogenization model developed within the context of the finite element method. It provides the constitutive response for a mesodomain of the fabric corresponding to the area associated to a finite element and takes into account the main deformation and damage mechanisms experimentally observed. It was found that the failure locus in the stress space was accurately predicted by the Von Mises criterion and failure took place by the localization of damage into a crack perpendicular to the main loading axis.

A constitutive model for the in-plane mechanical behavior of nonwoven fabrics

A constitutive model is presented for the in-plane mechanical behavior of nonwoven fabrics. The model is developed within the context of the finite element method and provides the constitutive response for a mesodomain of the fabric corresponding to the area associated to a finite element. The model is built upon the ensemble of three blocks, namely fabric, fibers and damage. The continuum tensorial formulation of the fabric response rigorously takes into account the effect of fiber rotation for large strains and includes the nonlinear fiber behavior. In addition, the various damage mechanisms experimentally observed (bond and fiber fracture, interfiber friction and fiber pull-out) are included in a phenomenological way and the random nature of these materials is also taken into account by means of a Monte Carlo lottery to determine the damage thresholds. The model results are validated with recent experimental results on the tensile response of smooth and notched specimens of a polypropylene nonwoven fabric.

X-ray microtomography analysis of the damage micromechanisms in 3D woven composites under low-velocity impact

3D woven composites reinforced with either S2 glass, carbon or a hybrid combination of both and containing either polyethylene or carbon z-yarns were tested under low-velocity impact. Different impact energies (in the range of 21–316 J) were used and the mechanical response (in terms of the impact strength and energy dissipated) was compared with that measured in high-performance, albeit standard, 2D laminates. It was found that the impact strength in both 2D and 3D materials was mainly dependent on the in-plane fiber fracture. Conversely, the energy absorption capability was primarily influenced by the presence of z-yarns, having the 3D composites dissipated over twice the energy than the 2D laminates, irrespective of their individual characteristics (fiber type, compaction degree, porosity, etc.). X-ray microtomography revealed that this improvement was due to the z-yarns, which delayed delamination and maintained the structural integrity of the laminate, promoting energy dissipation by tow splitting, intensive fiber breakage under the tup and formation of a plug by out-of-plane shear.

Damage mechanisms of 3D woven hybrid composites in tension. Testing, inspection and simulation

Delamination reduces the strenght of the composites, mainly in compression. Several methods exist to overcome this problem, but they are either not feasible for large scale production or too expensive. 3D composites are a promising solution.

Mechanical behavior and failure micromechanisms of hybrid 3D woven composites in tension

The deformation and failure micromechanisms of a hybrid 3D woven composite were studied in tension. Plain and open-hole composite coupons were tested in tension until failure in the fill and warp directions, as well as fiber tows extracted from the dry fabric and impregnated with the matrix. The macroscopic evolution of damage in the composite coupons was assessed by means of periodic unloading–reloading (to obtain the elastic modulus and the residual strain), whereas the microscopic mechanism were established by means of X-ray computed microtomography. To this end, specimens were periodically removed from the mechanical testing machine and infiltrated with ZnI-containing liquid to assess the main damage modes as a function of the applied strain. The experimental observations and the predictions of an isostrain model were used to understand the key factors controlling the elastic modulus, strength and notch sensitivity of hybrid 3D woven composites in tension. It was found that the full contribution of the glass fibers to the composite strength was not employed, due to the premature fracture of the carbon fibers, but their presence increased the fracture strain and the energy dissipated during fracture. Thus, hybridization of the 3D woven composite led to a notch-insensitive behavior as demonstrated by open-hole tests

Mechanical behavior and deformation micromechanisms of polypropylene nonwoven fabrics as a function of temperature and strain rate

The mechanical behavior and the deformation and failure micromechanisms of a thermally-bonded polypropylene nonwoven fabric were studied as a function of temperature and strain rate. Mechanical tests were carried out from 248 K (below the glass transition temperature) up to 383 K at strain rates in the range ≈10−3 s−1 to 10−1 s−1. In addition, individual fibers extracted from the nonwoven fabric were tested under the same conditions. Micromechanisms of deformation and failure at the fiber level were ascertained by means of mechanical tests within the scanning electron microscope while the strain distribution at the macroscopic level upon loading was determined by means of digital image correlation. It was found that the nonwoven behavior was mainly controlled by the properties of the fibers and of the interfiber bonds. Fiber properties determined the nonlinear behavior before the peak load while the interfiber bonds controlled the localization of damage after the peak load. The influence of these properties on the strength, ductility and energy absorbed during deformation is discussed from the experimental observations.

Textile fabrics of ancient Peru

by William H. Holmes.

Report of the New Jersey State Commission appointed to devise a plan for the encouragement of manufactures of ornamental and textile fabrics. 1878

Samuel C. Brown, Thomas N. Dale, Robert H. Thurston, commission.

Textile fabrics of ancient Peru

by William H. Holmes.