Estimation of wave reflection and energy dissipation coefficients for beaches, revetments, and breakwaters /

"February 1981."

Reanalysis of wave runup on structures and beaches /

Example problems and methods of data analysis, together with general observations, are given. Smooth-slope runup results for both breaking and nonbreaking waves are presented in a set of curves similar to but revised from those in the Shore Protection Manual (SPM) (U.S. Army, Corps of Engineerings, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1977). The curves are for structure slopes fronted by horizontal and 1 on 10 bottom slopes. The range of values of d sub s/H' sub o was extended to d sub s/H' sub o = 8; relative depth (d sub s/H' sub o) is important even for d sub s/H' sub o> 3 for waves which do not break on the structure slope. Rough-slope results are presented in similar curves if sufficient data were available. Otherwise, results are given as values of r, which is the ratio of rough-slope runup to smooth-slope runup. Scale-effect in runup is discussed.

Beaches near San Francisco, California, 1956-1957 /

Mode of access: Internet.

Salerno, American operations from the beaches to the Volturno (9 September-6 October 1943)

Sequel: From the Volturno to the winter line.

Minimum sanitary requirements for the design and operation of swimming pools and bathing beaches : prescribed under the Swimming Pool and Bathing Beach Act, Chapter 111 1/2, Paragraphs 1201-1227 inclusive.

Mode of access: Internet.

Minimum sanitary requirements for the design and operation of swimming pools and bathing beaches, 1984.

Cover title.

Ancient city of Gorgeana and modern town of York (Maine) from its earliest settlement; also its beaches and summer resorts.

At head of title: Reprint of 2d edition.

Dominant wave energy and sediment movement on intertidal beaches in Freshwater Bay, Washington, U.S.A.

Freshwater Bay (FWB), Washington did not undergo significant erosion of its shoreline after the construction of the Elwha and Glines Canyon Dams, unlike the shoreline east of Angeles Point (the Elwha River’s lobate delta). In this paper I compare the wave energy density in the western and eastern ends of the Strait of Juan de Fuca with the wave energy density at the Elwha River delta. This indicates seasonal high- and low-energy regimes in the energy density data. I group multi-year surveys of four cross-shore transects in FWB along this seasonal divide and search for seasonal trends in profile on the foreshore. After documenting changes in elevation at specific datums on the foreshore, I compare digital images of one datum to determine the particle sizes that are transported during deposition and scour events on this section of the FWB foreshore. Repeat surveys of four cross-shore transects over a five-year period indicate a highly mobile slope break between the upper foreshore and the low-tide delta. Post-2011, profiles in eastern FWB record deposition in the landward portion of the low-tide terrace and also in the upper intertidal. Western FWB experiences transient deposition on the low-tide terrace and high intra-annual variability in beach profile. Profile elevation at the slope break in western FWB can vary 0.5 m in the course of weeks. Changes in surface sediment that range from sand to cobble are co-incident with these changes in elevation. High sediment mobility and profile variation are inconsistent with shoreline stability and decreased sediment from the presumed source on the Elwha River delta.

A new analytical solution for water table fluctuations in coastal aquifers with sloping beaches

The Boussinesq equation appears as the zeroth-order term in the shallow water flow expansion of the non-linear equation describing the flow of fluid in an unconfined aquifer. One-dimensional models based on the Boussinesq equation have been used to analyse tide-induced water table fluctuations in coastal aquifers. Previous analytical solutions for a sloping beach are based on the perturbation parameter, epsilon(N) = alphaepsilon cot beta (in which beta is the beach slope, alpha is the amplitude parameter and epsilon is the shallow water parameter) and are limited to tan(-1) (alphaepsilon) much less than beta less than or equal to pi/2. In this paper, a new higher-order solution to the non-linear boundary value problem is derived. The results demonstrate the significant influence of the higher-order components and beach slope on the water table fluctuations. The relative difference between the linear solution and the present solution increases as 6 and a increase, and reaches 7% of the linear solution. (C) 2003 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Large scale experiments on gravel and mixed beaches: Experimental procedure, data documentation and initial results

This paper provides information on the experimental set-up, data collection methods and results to date for the project Large scale modelling of coarse grained beaches, undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) of FZK in Hannover by an international group of researchers in Spring 2002. The main objective of the experiments was to provide full scale measurements of cross-shore processes on gravel and mixed beaches for the verification and further development of cross-shore numerical models of gravel and mixed sediment beaches. Identical random and regular wave tests were undertaken for a gravel beach and a mixed sand/gravel beach set up in the flume. Measurements included profile development, water surface elevation along the flume, internal pressures in the swash zone, piezometric head levels within the beach, run-up, flow velocities in the surf-zone and sediment size distributions. The purpose of the paper is to present to the scientific community the experimental procedure, a summary of the data collected, some initial results, as well as a brief outline of the on-going research being carried out with the data by different research groups. The experimental data is available to all the scientific community following submission of a statement of objectives, specification of data requirements and an agreement to abide with the GWK and EU protocols. (C) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.