Recent research on natural fibres and textiles

This paper provides an overview of recent research on a range of natural fibres and textiles. The focus is on work carried out at Deakin University’s Centre for Material and Fibre Innovation, which is a multidisciplinary research centre with over 100 researchers. The fibres include hemp, wool, silk, and alpaca fibres. Research on yarns, fabrics, and fine powders made from wool and silk fibres are briefly discussed also.

The within-fibre diameter variation of wool has been examined systematically, which highlights the importance of this hard-to-measure fibre attribute. A relationship between hemp fibre fineness and residual gum content has been established, which provides a rapid means of assessing the residual gum content in the degummed hemp fibres. Silk and wool fibres have been converted into ultrafine powders for advanced applications. The Resistance to Compression (RtC) behaviour of wool and alpaca fibres has been closely examined, which challenges the belief that RtC is a good indicator of fibre softness. Ways of reducing the hairiness of natural fibre yarns, predicting the pilling propensity of wool knits, and functionalising fabrics for superhydrophobicity and photochromic or colour changing effects are discussed.

Super water repellent fabrics produced by silica nanoparticle-containing coating

In this paper, we report on superhydrophobic fabrics (polyester, wool and cotton) produced by a wet-chemical coating technique. The coating solutions were synthesized by the co-hydrolysis of two silane precursors, tetraethyl orthosilicate (TEOS) and an alkylsilane, in an alkaline condition. Without any purification, the as-hydrolyzed solutions were directly used to treat fabrics, and the treated fabrics had water contact angles (CA) as high as 170º and sliding angles (SA) as low as 5º. Three alkylsilanes have been used for the synthesis of the coating solutions, and all contain three hydrolysable alkoxyl groups and one non-hydrolysable alkyl, but with different chain lengths (C1, C8 and C16). It was found that the CA value increased with an increase in the alkyl chain length, while the SA showed a reverse trend. When the functional group had a C16 alkyl, the treated fabric surfaces were highly superhydrophobic, with the CA not being affected much by the fabric type, while the SA values were slightly affected by the original wettability of the fabric substrates. The superhydrophobic feature was attributed to a highly rough surface formed by the particulate coating. Aside from the superhydrophobicity, the influence of the coating on the fabric softness was also examined.

Predicting comfort properties of knitted fabrics by assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter

This study examined the feasibility of assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) to predict the comfort properties of the corresponding single jersey-knitted fabrics. The optimum yarn arrangement to predict the comfort value of a corresponding control fabric was determined using nine wool and wool/nylon-blended yarns (mean fibre diameter range 16.5–24.9 μm) knitted into 34 different fabrics. Using a notched template, yarn winding frequencies of 1, 3, 6, 12, 25 and 50 parallel yarns were tested on the WCM. The best predictor of fabric WCM values was using 25 parallel yarns. Inclusion of knitting gauge and cover factor slightly improved predictions. This indicates that evaluation at the yarn stage would be a reliable predictor of knitted fabric comfort, and thus yarn testing would avoid the time and expense of fabric construction.

The impolicy of the tax on cotton wool, as aggravated by the progress and capabilities of foreign countries in cotton manufactures, and more especially in those coarse yarns and heavy fabrics, of the cost of which the raw material constitutes a principal ingredient; also by certain other peculiarities in the position of the cotton manufacture of Great Britain.

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Functionality of nano titanium dioxide on textiles with future aspects: focus on wool

The consumption of titanium dioxide in today's world is on the increase. As the most popular nano substance, TiO 2 is used in various industries notably in the textile industry. More and more recently, through a synergistic combination of photocatalytic features of nanoparticles, fabrics with novel properties are produced. Self-cleaning and stability against UV rays as well as chemical media, to name but a few, are among new prominent properties, obtained on textiles. A common subject reported in most studies has been the diverse approaches to immobilize the nanoparticles on the surface of fabrics. Wool is among common textile materials that have undergone numerous processes to be modified. This review intends to bring to light different aspects of application of nano titanium dioxide in the textile industry especially on wool, and also presents a concise overview on the rigorous pieces of research conducted in this realm.

Exposed

Curation of a fashion parade (Exposed) of QUT student swimwear designs held in conjunction with the ‘Woollen Mermaids’ (history of swimwear) exhibition at QLD Museum. The research explored the exhibition of ‘cutting edge’ swimwear produced with non-traditional fabrics (wool) and experimented with display /presentation styles for fashion parades in museum settings. The paid ticketed event was attended by over 800 people.

Influence of Measured Characteristics on Price Received for Merino Wool from the Traprock Area of Southern Queensland

In this study of a commercial wool clip sold in the years 1991/92-1996/97, the effect of wool characteristics, (staple length, staple strength, fibre diameter, position of break, vegetable matter, hauteur, yield and coefficient of variation of staple length) on price was explored together with their effect on the ratio of price received per lot to the average weekly price (1994/95 basis) for clean wool of the same fibre diameter. Fibre diameter and where the point of break occurred had the most effect on price. As hauteur, staple length and yield increased, so did the price ratio but it decreased as the percentage of vegetable matter and the coefficient of variation of the staple length increased. The ratio of proceeds if all wool had been sold at average weekly market price, to proceeds if all wool had been 21µm or less, indicated little financial advantage over the six-year period as most sale lots were under 22µm. To raise the proceeds of sale above the proceeds estimated using average market price for each lot, the analyses suggested that hauteur, staple length and its coefficient of variation, could be considered, in addition to fibre diameter, when sourcing wethers for purchase. Animal production for a consuming world : proceedings of 9th Congress of the Asian-Australasian Association of Animal Production Societies [AAAP] and 23rd Biennial Conference of the Australian Society of Animal Production [ASAP] and 17th Annual Symposium of the University of Sydney, Dairy Research Foundation, [DRF]. 2-7 July 2000, Sydney, Australia.

Genetic Parameters for Staple Length and Staple Strength of Merino Wool Produced in Central and North West Queensland

Estimates of genetic parameters are presented for staple length and staple strength for 15 month old, medium Peppin sheep at Longreach and Julia Creek Queensland. The effects of birth type, sex and year of birth are shown. There were significant interactions for sex by site and for sex by year of birth. Heritability of staple length and strength were respectively 0.75 and 0.37 for the Longreach flock and 0.70 and 0.23 for the Julia Creek flock. The heritability of staple strength agrees with other published data however the estimate for staple length is very high. Phenotypic and genetic correlations with greasy fleece weight, yield, clean fleece weight, average fibre diameter and liveweight are in general agreement with other published estimates. Animal production for a consuming world : proceedings of 9th Congress of the Asian-Australasian Association of Animal Production Societies [AAAP] and 23rd Biennial Conference of the Australian Society of Animal Production [ASAP] and 17th Annual Symposium of the University of Sydney, Dairy Research Foundation, [DRF]. 2-7 July 2000 University of New South Wales, Sydney, Australia.

Use of part records in Merino breeding programs - The inheritance of wool growth and fibre traits during different times of the year to determine their value in Merino breeding programs

Fibre diameter can vary dramatically along a wool staple, especially in the Mediterranean environment of southern Australia with its dry summers and abundance of green feed in spring. Other research results have shown a very low phenotypic correlation between fibre diameter grown between seasons. Many breeders use short staples to measure fibre diameter for breeding purposes and also to promote animals for sale. The effectiveness of this practice is determined by the relative response to selection by measuring fibre traits on a full 12 months wool staple as compared to measuring them only on part of a staple. If a high genetic correlation exists between the part record and the full record, then using part records may be acceptable to identify genetically superior animals. No information is available on the effectiveness of part records. This paper investigated whether wool growth and fibre diameter traits of Merino wool grown at different times of the year in a Mediterranean environment, are genetically the same trait, respectively. The work was carried out on about 7 dyebanded wool sections/animal.year, on ewes from weaning to hogget age, in the Katanning Merino resource flocks over 6 years. Relative clean wool growth of the different sections had very low heritability estimates of less than 0.10, and they were phenotypically and genetically poorly correlated with 6 or 12 months wool growth. This indicates that part record measurement of clean wool growth of these sections will be ineffective as indirect selection criteria to improve wool growth genetically. Staple length growth as measured by the length between dyebands, would be more effective with heritability estimates of between 0.20 and 0.30. However, these measurements were shown to have a low genetic correlation with wool grown for 12 months which implies that these staple length measurements would only be half as efficient as the wool weight for 6 or 12 months to improve total clean wool weight. Heritability estimates of fibre diameter, coefficient of variation of fibre diameter and fibre curvature were relatively high and were genetically and phenotypically highly correlated across sections. High positive phenotypic and genetic correlations were also found between fibre diameter, coefficient of variation of fibre diameter and fibre curvature of the different sections and similar measurements for wool grown over 6 or 12 months. Coefficient of variation of fibre diameter of the sections also had a moderate negative phenotypic and genetic correlation with staple strength of wool staples grown over 6 months indicating that coefficient of variation of fibre diameter of any section would be as good an indirect selection criterion to improve stable strength as coefficient of variation of fibre diameter for wool grown over 6 or 12 months. The results indicate that fibre diameter, coefficient of variation of fibre diameter and fibre curvature of wool grown over short periods of time have virtually the same heritability as that of wool grown over 12 months, and that the genetic correlation between fibre diameter, coefficient of variation of fibre diameter and fibre curvature on part and on full records is very high (rg > 0.85). This indicates that fibre diameter, coefficient of variation of fibre diameter and fibre curvature on part records can be used as selection criteria to improve these traits. However, part records of greasy and clean wool growth would be much less efficient than fleece weight for wool grown over 6 or 12 months because of the low heritability of part records and the low genetic correlation between these traits on part records and on wool grown for 12 months.