561 resultados para Wool fabric


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Given the increase of reconciliation processes initiated amid on-going violence, this study focuses on community reconciliation and its relation to structural transformation, or social reconstruction through reforming unjust institutions and practices that facilitate protracted violent conflict. Drawing lessons from the Caribbean coast of Colombia, mixed method analyses include eight in-depth interviews and 184 surveys. Four key dimensions of reconciliation – truth, justice, mercy, peace – are examined. In the interviews, participants prioritize reconstructing the truth and bringing perpetrators to justice as essential aspects of reconciliation. Notions of mercy and forgiveness are less apparent. For the participants, sustainable peace is dependent on structural transformation to improve livelihoods. These data, however, do not indicate how this understanding of reconciliation may relate to individual participation in reconciliation processes. Complementing the qualitative data, quantitative analyses identify some broad patterns that relate to participation in reconciliation events. Compared to those who did not participate, individuals who engaged in reconciliation initiatives report higher levels of personal experience with violence, live alongside demobilized paramilitaries, are more engaged in civic life, and express greater preference for structural transformation. The paper concludes with policy implications that integrate reconciliation and structural transformation to deepen efforts to rebuild the social fabric amid violence.

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Sheep on the island of North Ronaldsay (Orkney, UK) feed mostly on seaweed, which contains high concentrations of dimethylated arsenoribosides. Wool of these sheep contains dimethylated, monomethylated and inorganic arsenic, in addition to unidentified arsenic species in unbound and complexed form. Chromatographic techniques using different separation mechanisms and detectors enabled us to identify five arsenic species in water extracts of wool. The wool contained 5.2 ± 2.3 μg arsenic per gram wool. About 80% of the arsenic in wool was extracted by boiling the wool with water. The main species is dimethylarsenic, which accounted for about 75 to 85%, monomethylated arsenic at about 5% and the rest is inorganic arsenic. Depending on the separation method and condition, the chromatographic recovery of arsenic species was between 45% for the anion exchange column, 68% for the size exclusion chromatography (SEC) and 82% for the cation exchange column. The SEC revealed the occurrence of two unknown arsenic compounds, of which one was probably a high molecular mass species. Since chromatographic recovery can be improved by either treating the extract with CuCl/HCl (CAT: 90%) or longer storage of the sample (CAT: 105%), in particular for methylated arsenic species, it can be assumed that labile arsenic -protein-like coordination species occur in the extract, which cannot be speciated with conventional chromatographic methods. It is clear from our study of sheep wool that there can be different kinds of 'hidden' arsenic in biological matrices, depending on the extraction, separation and detection methods used. Hidden species can be defined as species that are not recordable by the detection system, not extractable or do not elute from chromatographic columns. Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

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When developmental vernacular practice is telescoped into industrial activity, the role played by construction workers in the honing of a craft is rapidly bypassed. An almost political act is required to maintain the contribution that the hand makes to the uniformity of result that is demanded by the standard classification of typologies of building and technique. Research into fabric formwork techniques conducted by Alan Chandler utilises the flexibility of the concrete mould to explore the meaning of the making ‘process’ and the workers’ role in relation to the formal ‘result’. Chandler’s ‘Wall One’ exemplifies the exploratory prototype and its potential for variety and the trace of the hand in making. The shift to a mass production typology involved in realising the 325,000 square-metre Heatherwick studio project in Shanghai, presented the problem of how to orchestrate the fabric into a fully industrialised process. Part of the research then became how to make the shift from play to profit - and can anything of craft survive the transition into the international development marketplace? Through managing the inherent variety available to the fabric itself, a fabric based formwork solution for realising a building at the scale of a landscape offered the Chinese form work maker the opportunity to be present within the results of a fully industrialised process – a ghost in the machine.

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An in situ experiment in a full scale timber frame test building was carried out to compare the hygrothermal performance of Hemp and Stone Wool insulations of identical thermal conductivity. Hemp and Stone Wool insulations were installed in timber frame wall panels without vapour barrier. The comparison was made in terms of heat transfer properties, likelihood of mould growth and condensation. Step changes in internal relative humidity were performed to explore the effect of high and normal internal moisture load on the wall panels. No significant difference between the average equivalent thermal transmittance (U-values) of the panels incorporating Hemp and Stone Wool insulations was observed. The average equivalent U-values of the panels were closer to the calculated U-values of the panels based on the manufacturers’ declared thermal conductivity of Hemp and Stone Wool insulations. It was observed that the placement of heat flux sensor along the depth of the insulation had significant influence on the measured equivalent U-value of the panels during high internal moisture load. The frequency and likelihood of condensation was higher in the interface of Stone Wool and Oriented Strand Board (OSB). In terms of the parametric assessment of mould germination potential, relative humidity, temperature and exposure conditions in the insulation-OSB interfaces were found to be favourable to germination of mould spore. However, when the insulations were dismantled, no mould was visually detected.

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Moisture and heat management properties of Hemp and Stone Wool insulations were studied by mounting them between a hot and a cold climate chamber. Both insulations were exposed to identical hygrothermal boundary conditions. Quasi steady state and dynamic tests were carried out at a range of relative humidity exposures. The likelihood of interstitial condensation was assessed and equivalent thermal conductivity values of the insulations were determined. The adsorption-desorption isotherms of the insulations were also determined in a dynamic vapour sorption (DVS) instrument. It was observed that the likelihood of condensation was higher in Stone Wool insulation than in Hemp insulation. Hemp insulation performed better in managing moisture due to its high hygric inertia and water absorption capacity. It was observed that the equivalent thermal conductivity of Stone Wool insulation was dependent on enthalpy flow and phase change of moisture. The equivalent thermal conductivity of Hemp insulation was close to its declared thermal conductivity in dynamic conditions when high relative humidity exposures were transient. In quasi steady state boundary conditions, when the insulation was allowed to reach the equilibrium moisture content at ranges of relative humidity, there was a moisture dependent increase of thermal conductivity in Hemp insulation.

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Raman spectroscopy has been applied to characterize fiber dyes and determine the discriminating ability of the method. Black, blue, and red acrylic, cotton, and wool samples were analyzed. Four excitation sources were used to obtain complementary responses in the case of fluorescent samples. Fibers that did not provide informative spectra using a given laser were usually detected using another wavelength. For any colored acrylic, the 633-nm laser did not provide Raman information. The 514-nm laser provided the highest discrimination for blue and black cotton, but half of the blue cottons produced noninformative spectra. The 830-nm laser exhibited the highest discrimination for red cotton. Both visible lasers provided the highest discrimination for black and blue wool, and NIR lasers produced remarkable separation for red and black wool. This study shows that the discriminating ability of Raman spectroscopy depends on the fiber type, color, and the laser wavelength.

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Lady's wool blazer circa 1967

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During the 1950’s, the Rittenhouse family of Vineland in the Niagara Peninsula opened a craft store and studio. Within a short period of time, they realized that resources for the craft of rug hooking were in demand and they began to build their business around this niche. Edna Rittenhouse, the mother, was the wool dyer; Margaret Rowan, the daughter, was the pattern designer; Ted Rowan, the son-in-law, changed careers and became the manager of the family business. The 1960’s were a prosperous time, not only in the Niagara Peninsula, but also for the Rittenhouse business. Edna Rittenhouse had been hooking rugs for decades but she and her family worked at developing and sharing newer techniques with newer materials. Shading manuals were authored and published; students became teachers; creativity abounded in the demand for and the creation of new designs. Instead of using woolen yarn, they were using pure woolen fabric; instead of using a standard cutter, they began using a uniquely designed cutter; instead of using frames, they employed a table top method. The new material and technique resulted in a rug with a smooth, uniform texture and a soft nap. Since many crafters belonged to crafters guilds, Margaret and Ted Rowan began promoting the idea of a guild for rug hookers and in time the Ontario Hooking Craft Guild was also a reality. A joint project between Chatelaine magazine and the Rittermere studio for Canada’s centennial year of 1967 was extremely well received within the circle of hooking crafters and the Rittermere Farm Craft Studio became a North American landmark for crafters. From this point onward the studio had a large customer base not only in North America but also overseas. The studio remained popular until 1984 when Margaret and Ted Rowan decided to retire. The Rittermere name has been preserved in the name of Rittermere-Hurst-Field which is a similar business located in Aurora which is just north of Toronto.

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Family Record of the Clement Family (1 printed page) exactly as above, but printed on fabric, n.d.

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Receipt from H. Carlisle and Co., St. Catharines for fabric, Jan. 3, 1888.

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