955 resultados para Wave Run-up


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The objective of this research study was quantify the power, force of vertical impulse, jumping height and the relation of the power output during the execution of the layup in basketball, by variables associated to anthropometric data. The study was carried with seven basketball players, university students, male, from the Universidade Estadual Paulista Julio Mesquita Filho (Unesp) basketball team, from Bauru City. The players were an age of 20,7 ± 2,4 years old, body weight of 77,1 ± 9,4 kg, body fat of 14,7 ± 3,6%, lean mass of 65,5 ± 6,2 kg and height of 180,0 ± 5,0 cm. Each player did the ability of the layup three times, with a previous time to adapt. The kinetic and kinematic values was obtained from the data of a system that consists of photocells and a contact carpet from a system called JumpSystemâ (CEFISE), using after that equations of UVRM and impulse. The photocells was dispose to capture the previous run-up, as well the speedy in the time of two steps of the layup, and it was also synchronized with the contact carpet in the last step, to preserve the exactly time of the propulsion of jump. In this way, the values and the kinetic variables found was vV (2,94 ± 0,3 m's-1), vH (11,3 ± 3,4 m's-1), vI (11,8 ± 3,2 m's-1), time of contact (0,214 ± 0,2 s), angle of jump (15,9 ± 6,26 graus) and H (44,3 ± 8,9 cm). The variables and the kinematic values found was FimpV (974,9 ± 119,03 N, PP (3112,9 ± 633,9 W) and PM (1556,4 ± 316,9 W). To better understand the ability of layup in basketball, as the kinetic variables, kinematic variables and anthropometrics that determine the performance, the study did correlations between dV (H) with vV, vH, vI, angle, FimpV, PP e PM; FimpV, PP e PM com with the kinetic variables of vV, vH, vI, angle, and anthropometric variables of PC and height, and correlations of PP e PM with %G and MM. So, significant results was found between the correlations of dV with FimpV (R2 = 0,81)...

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The aim of the study was to analyze the relationship between run-up spatial-temporal variables with ball velocity in the dominant and non-dominant kicks, and to compare the ball velocity between contralateral limbs. Six futsal players (aged 13 and 14 years) participated in the study. The participants performed 4 kicks with maximal velocity in the stationary ball with each limb. Participants’ movements were recorded by 4 digital cameras (120 Hz). Dvideow software was used for kinematic procedures. The variables analyzed were: length and width of the last but one step and last step before ball contact, distance of the support foot to the ball, run-up velocity and ball velocity. The relationship between spatial-temporal variables with the ball velocity was analyzed by linear regressions with ball velocity as dependent variable. Student t test for paired samples was used to compare ball velocity between dominant and non-dominant kicks. For the dominant limb, the ball velocity was predicted only by the run-up velocity in 16.7%, while for the non-dominant limb only the distance of the support foot to the ball was prognostic variable in 11.9%. The ball velocity was greater for the dominant limb. Run-up variables that predictive ball velocity were different between the dominant and non-dominant kicks.

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In this work the main concepts to apply to dynamic signal analysis technique for rotating machines known as order analysis, discussing their characteristics and applying it on an experimental test rig. It aims to characterize the dynamic behavior of experimental test rig in run up and run down tests, it's operational speed range and the identification of the critical speed of shaft rotation. The results of the critical speed and stationary natural frequency of the shaft are discussed

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The problem of rats in our Hawaiian sugar cane fields has been with us for a long time. Early records tell of heavy damage at various times on all the islands where sugar cane is grown. Many methods were tried to control these rats. Trapping was once used as a control measure, a bounty was used for a time, gangs of dogs were trained to catch the rats as the cane was harvested. Many kinds of baits and poisons were used. All of these methods were of some value as long as labor was cheap. Our present day problem started when the labor costs started up and the sugar industry shifted to long cropping. Until World War II cane was an annual crop. After the war it was shifted to a two year crop, three years in some places. Depending on variety, location, and soil we raise 90 to 130 tons of sugar cane per acre, which produces 7 to 15 tons of sugar per acre for a two year crop. This sugar brings about $135 dollars per ton. This tonnage of cane is a thick tangle of vegetation. The cane grows erect for almost a year, as it continues to grow it bends over at the base. This allows the stalk to rest on the ground or on other stalks of cane as it continues to grow. These stalks form a tangled mat of stalks and dead leaves that may be two feet thick at the time of harvest. At the same time the leafy growing portion of the stalk will be sticking up out of the mat of cane ten feet in the air. Some of these individual stalks may be 30 feet long and still growing at the time of harvest. All this makes it very hard to get through a cane field as it is one long, prolonged stumble over and through the cane. It is in this mat of cane that our three species of rats live. Two species are familiar to most people in the pest control field. Rattus norvegicus and Rattus rattus. In the latter species we include both the black rat and the alexandrine rats, their habits seem to be the same in Hawaii. Our third rat is the Polynesian rat, Rattus exlans, locally called the Hawaiian rat. This is a small rat, the average length head to tip of tail is nine inches and the average body weight is 65 grams. It has dark brownish fur like the alexandrine rats, and a grey belly. It is found in Indonesia, on most of the islands of Oceania and in New Zealand. All three rats live in our cane fields and the brushy and forested portions of our islands. The norway and alexandrine rats are found in and around the villages and farms, the Polynesian rat is only found in the fields and waste areas. The actual amount of damage done by rats is small, but destruction they cause is large. The rats gnaw through the rind of the cane stalk and eat the soft juicy and sweet tissues inside. They will hollow out one to several nodes per stalk attacked. The effect to the cane stalk is like ringing a tree. After this attack the stalk above the chewed portion usually dies, and sometimes the lower portion too. If the rat does not eat through the stalk the cane stalk could go on living and producing sugar at a reduced rate. Generally an injured stalk does not last long. Disease and souring organisms get in the injury and kill the stalk. And if this isn't enough, some insects are attracted to the injured stalk and will sometimes bore in and kill it. An injured stalk of cane doesn't have much of a chance. A rat may only gnaw out six inches of a 30 foot stalk and the whole stalk will die. If the rat only destroyed what he ate we could ignore them but they cause the death of too much cane. This dead, dying, and souring cane cause several direct and indirect tosses. First we lose the sugar that the cane would have produced. We harvest all of our cane mechanically so we haul the dead and souring cane to the mill where we have to grind it with our good cane and the bad cane reduces the purity of the sugar juices we squeeze from the cane. Rats reduce our income and run up our overhead.

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In this work the main concepts to apply to dynamic signal analysis technique for rotating machines known as order analysis, discussing their characteristics and applying it on an experimental test rig. It aims to characterize the dynamic behavior of experimental test rig in run up and run down tests, it's operational speed range and the identification of the critical speed of shaft rotation. The results of the critical speed and stationary natural frequency of the shaft are discussed

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Linear parameter varying (LPV) control is a model-based control technique that takes into account time-varying parameters of the plant. In the case of rotating systems supported by lubricated bearings, the dynamic characteristics of the bearings change in time as a function of the rotating speed. Hence, LPV control can tackle the problem of run-up and run-down operational conditions when dynamic characteristics of the rotating system change significantly in time due to the bearings and high vibration levels occur. In this work, the LPV control design for a flexible shaft supported by plain journal bearings is presented. The model used in the LPV control design is updated from unbalance response experimental results and dynamic coefficients for the entire range of rotating speeds are obtained by numerical optimization. Experimental implementation of the designed LPV control resulted in strong reduction of vibration amplitudes when crossing the critical speed, without affecting system behavior in sub- or supercritical speeds. (C) 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

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The keeper-independent strategy, in which a football penalty kicker selects a target location in advance and ignores the goalkeeper's actions during the run-up, has been suggested to be the preferable strategy for taking a penalty kick. The current in-field experiment investigated the question of whether the goalkeeper can indeed be ignored. Ten intermediate-level football players were instructed to adopt a goalkeeper-independent strategy and to perform penalty kicks directed at one of two targets located in the upper corners of the goal under three conditions: without a goalkeeper, in the presence of a goalkeeper (who tried to save the ball), and in the presence of a goalkeeper who was informed by the penalty kickers where they intended to direct the ball. The mere presence of a goalkeeper impaired shot accuracy. The shots were more centralised, that is, biased toward the goalkeeper. The effects were enhanced for the condition in which the penalty kicker knew the goalkeeper was knowledgeable about ball direction. The findings were consistent with the response activation model that holds that aiming at a target can be biased toward salient visual non-targets. The implications for adopting and practising goalkeeper-independent strategies are discussed.

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In der vorliegenden Arbeit wurden die durch Training induzierten motorischen Gedächtnisleistungen der Taufliege Drosophila melanogaster beim Überklettern von acht symmetrisch verteilten Lücken auf einem rotierenden Ring untersucht. Durch den auf sie einwirkenden optischen Fluss der vorbeiziehenden äußeren Umgebung wurden die Fliegen angeregt, diesem optomotorischen Reiz entgegenzuwirken und die Lücken laufend zu überqueren. Durch Training verbessert und langfristig gelernt wird die kompensatorische Lückenüberquerung X+ gegen die Rotation. In der aus diesem Training erhaltenen Lernkurve war eine überdurchschnittlich hohe Leistungsverbesserung nach einem einzigen Trainingslauf mit einem zeitlichen Bestand von ca. 40 Minuten abzulesen, um danach vom motorischen Gedächtnisspeicher trainierter Fliegen nicht mehr abgerufen werden zu können. Nach einer Ruhephase von einem bis mehreren Tagen wurden die Fliegen auf mögliche Langzeitlernleistungen untersucht und diese für verschiedene Intervalle nachgewiesen. Sowohl die Leistungsverbesserung während des Trainings, als auch der Lerneffekt nach 24h bleiben in mutanten rutabaga2080 sowie rut1 Fliegen aus. Betroffen ist das Gen der Adenylylzyklase I, ein Schlüsselprotein der cAMP-Signalkaskade, die u.a. im olfaktorischen und visuellen Lernen gebraucht wird. Damit ergab sich die Möglichkeit die motorischen Gedächtnisformen durch partielle Rettung zu kartieren. Die motorische Gedächtniskonsolidierung ist schlafabhängig. Wie sich herausstellte, benötigen WTB Fliegen nur eine Dunkelphase von 10h zwischen einem ersten Trainingslauf und einem Testlauf um signifikante Leistungssteigerungen zu erzielen. In weiterführenden Versuchen wurden die Fliegen nachts sowie tagsüber mit einer LED-Lampe oder in einer Dunkelkammer, mit einem Kreisschüttler oder einer Laborwippe depriviert, mit dem Ergebnis, dass nur jene Fliegen ihre Leistung signifikant gegenüber einem ersten Trainingslauf verbessern konnten, welche entweder ausschließlich der Dunkelheit ausgesetzt waren oder welchen die Möglichkeit gegeben wurde, ein Gedächtnis zunächst in einer natürlichen Schlafphase zu konsolidieren (21Uhr bis 7Uhr MEZ). In weiteren Experimenten wurden die experimentellen Bedingungen entweder während des Trainings oder des Tests auf eine Fliege und damit verbunden auf eine erst durch das Training mögliche motorische Gedächtniskonsolidierung einwirken zu können, untersucht. Dazu wurden die Experimentparameter Lückenweite, Rotationsrichtung des Lückenringes, Geschwindigkeit des Lückenringes sowie die Verteilung der acht Lücken auf dem Ring (symmetrisch, asymmetrisch) im Training oder beim Gedächtnisabruf im Testlauf verändert. Aus den Ergebnissen kann geschlussfolgert werden, dass die Lückenweite langzeitkonsolidiert wird, die Rotationsrichtung kurzzeitig abgespeichert wird und die Drehgeschwindigkeit motivierend auf die Fliegen wirkt. Die symmetrische Verteilung der Lücken auf dem Ring dient der Langzeitkonsolidierung und ist als Trainingseingang von hoher Wichtigkeit. Mit Hilfe verschiedener Paradigmen konnten die Leistungsverbesserungen der Fliegen bei Abruf eines Kurz- bzw. Langzeitgedächtnisses hochauflösend betrachtet werden (Transfer). Die Konzentration, mit der eine WTB Fliege eine motorische Aufgabe - die Überquerung von Lücken entgegengesetzt der Rotationsrichtung - durchführt, konnte mit Hilfe von Distraktoreizen bestimmt werden. Wie sich herausstellte, haben Distraktoren einen Einfluss auf die Erfolgsquote einer Überquerung, d.h. mit zunehmender Distraktionsstärke nahm die Wahrscheinlichkeit einer Lückenüberquerung ab. Die Ablenkungsreize wirkten sich weiterhin auf die Vermessung einer Lücke aus, in dem entweder "peering"-artigen Bewegungen im Training durchgeführt wurden oder je nach Reizstärke ausschließlich nur jene Lücken vermessen wurden, welche auch überquert werden sollten.

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In dieser Arbeit wird eine Methode entwickelt, die Rossbywellenzüge automatisch identifiziert und und deren Eigenschaften quantifiziert. Mit dieser Methode wird der Wellenzug als eine Einheit in Raum und Zeit interpretiert. Einheit im Raum heißt, dass nicht die einzelnen Tröge und Rücken eines Wellenzugs betrachtet werden, sondern deren Einhüllende. Einheit in der Zeit bedeutet, dass der Wellenzug nicht nur zu einem Zeitpunkt betrachtet wird, sondern über seine gesamte Lebensdauer hinweg. Um den Wellenzug als räumliche und zeitliche Einheit zu erhalten, werden die Einhüllenden der Wellenzüge in Längengrad-Zeit Diagrammen, sogenannten Hovmöllerdiagrammen, betrachtet. Dort werden zusammenhängende Regionen als Objekte, die jeweils einen Wellenzug repräsentieren, identifiziert. Deren Eigenschaften werden dann automatisch berechnet. Diese Eigenschaften können nun direkt dem zugrunde liegenden Rossbywellenzug zugeordnet werden.rnDie neue Methode wird in zwei verschiedenen Szenarien angewendet: erstens zur Beurteilung der Vorhersagequalität eines einzelnen Rossbywellenzugs und zweitens für die klimatologische Betrachtung von Rossbywellenzügen im ERA-40 Reanalysedatensatz. Sie wurde weiterhin mit bisher verwendeten Methoden zur Identifikation und Quantifizierung von Rossbywellenzügen verglichen.rnDie Untersuchung der Vorhersagequalität ergab, dass in dem betrachteten Fall die Übereinstimmung der Vorhersage mit der Analyse des Wellenzugs gering war, sofern das Modell initialisiert wurde, bevor der Rossbywellenzug eingesetzt hatte. Im Gegensatz dazu nahm die Vorhersagequalität deutlich zu, wenn der Wellenzug bereits in den Vorhersagedaten enthalten war. Dies deutet darauf hin, dass es in dem vorliegenden Fall problematisch ist, mit dem Modell den Auslösemechanismus korrekt voherzusagen. Für die weitere Untersuchung der Vorhersagequalität wurde eine spezielle Art der Darstellung der Daten verwendet, mit deren Hilfe deutlich wurde, dass das verwendete Modell in der Lage ist, diesen Wellenzug ungefähr sechs Tage im Voraus vorherzusagen. Diese Zeitspanne ist deutlich kürzer als die Lebensdauer des Wellenzugs, die etwa 10 Tage beträgt.rnIm Rahmen der klimatologischen Studie ergab sich eine positive Korrelation zwischen der Lebensdauer eines Rossbywellenzugs und des Bereichs den dieser Wellenzug während seiner gesamten Existenz in zonaler Richtung überstreicht. Für Wellenzüge mit einer kurzen Lebensdauer ergab sich eine ebenfalls positive Korrelation zwischen der mittleren Amplitude und der Dauer des Wellenzugs. Für eine längere Lebensdauer geht diese Korrelation aber in eine Sättigung über und die mittlere Amplitude steigt nicht mehr weiter an. Als eine mögliche Erklärung für dieses Verhalten wird angeführt, dass eine gewisse Stärke der Amplitude benötigt wird um stromabwärtige Entwicklung zu erhalten aber zu große Amplituden im Allgemeinen zum Brechen der Welle führen. Das Brechen leitet den letzten Abschnitt im Lebenszyklus eines Rossbywellenzuges ein, welcher im Anschluss meist zerfällt. Ein weiteres Ergebnis der klimatologischen Untersuchung ist das Auffinden bevorzugter Regionen der Entstehung und des Abklingens von Rossbywellenzügen. Diese Regionen unterscheiden sich erheblich für Rossbywellenzüge unterschiedlicher minimaler Lebensdauer. Langlebige Rossbywellenzüge entstehen demnach hauptsächlich über Ostasien und dem Westpazifik und vergehen dann über Europa.rnSchließlich wurde die entwickelte Methode in einen systematischen Vergleich anderer Methoden zur Identifikation und Quantifizierung von Rossbywellenzügen eingereiht. Die betrachteten Methoden beinhalten verschiedene Trog-und-Rücken Hovmöllerdiagramme des Meridionalwindes, Methoden die Rossbywellenzüge als eine Einheit identifizieren und Methoden die den Beitrag verschiedener physikalischer Aspekte zu der Entwicklung von Rossbywellenenzügen quantifizieren. Der Vergleich macht deutlich, dass jede Methode ihre individuellen Stärken und Schwächen hat. Dies bedeutet insbesondere, dass die Eignung der Methode von dem Stadium des Lebenszyklus, in dem sich der Rossbywellenzug befindet und dem Fokus, den man bei der Betrachtung hat, abhängt. Ideal ist eine Kombination mehrerer Methoden, da dies ein vollständigeres Bild eines Rossbywellenzuges ergibt als einzelne Methoden es zu liefern vermögen. Obwohl alle Methoden für die Anwendungen, für die sie jeweils konzipiert wurden, geeignet sind, ergeben sich bei der Diagnose der Rossbywellenzüge beträchtliche Unterschiede. Letztendlich stellt sich heraus, dass sogar die Defintion eines Rossbywellenzugs bis zu einem gewissen Grad von der zu seiner Identifizierung verwendeten Methode abhängt.

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The excitation spectrum is one of the fundamental properties of every spatially extended system. The excitations of the building blocks of normal matter, i.e., protons and neutrons (nucleons), play an important role in our understanding of the low energy regime of the strong interaction. Due to the large coupling, perturbative solutions of quantum chromodynamics (QCD) are not appropriate to calculate long-range phenomena of hadrons. For many years, constituent quark models were used to understand the excitation spectra. Recently, calculations in lattice QCD make first connections between excited nucleons and the fundamental field quanta (quarks and gluons). Due to their short lifetime and large decay width, excited nucleons appear as resonances in scattering processes like pion nucleon scattering or meson photoproduction. In order to disentangle individual resonances with definite spin and parity in experimental data, partial wave analyses are necessary. Unique solutions in these analyses can only be expected if sufficient empirical information about spin degrees of freedom is available. The measurement of spin observables in pion photoproduction is the focus of this thesis. The polarized electron beam of the Mainz Microtron (MAMI) was used to produce high-intensity, polarized photon beams with tagged energies up to 1.47 GeV. A "frozen-spin" Butanol target in combination with an almost 4π detector setup consisting of the Crystal Ball and the TAPS calorimeters allowed the precise determination of the helicity dependence of the γp → π0p reaction. In this thesis, as an improvement of the target setup, an internal polarizing solenoid has been constructed and tested. A magnetic field of 2.32 T and homogeneity of 1.22×10−3 in the target volume have been achieved. The helicity asymmetry E, i.e., the difference of events with total helicity 1/2 and 3/2 divided by the sum, was determined from data taken in the years 2013-14. The subtraction of background events arising from nucleons bound in Carbon and Oxygen was an important part of the analysis. The results for the asymmetry E are compared to existing data and predictions from various models. The results show a reasonable agreement to the models in the energy region of the ∆(1232)-resonance but large discrepancies are observed for energy above 600 MeV. The expansion of the present data in terms of Legendre polynomials, shows the sensitivity of the data to partial wave amplitudes up to F-waves. Additionally, a first, preliminary multipole analysis of the present data together with other results from the Crystal Ball experiment has been as been performed.

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Images of the medieval past have long been fertile soil for the identity politics of subsequent periods. Rather than “authentically” reproducing the Middle Ages, medievalism therefore usually tells us more about the concerns and ideological climate of its own time and place of origin. To dramatise the nascent nation, Shakespeare resorts to medievalism in his history plays. Centuries later, the BBC-produced television mini-serial The Hollow Crown – adapting Shakespeare’s second histories tetralogy – revamps this negotiation of national identity for the “Cultural Olympiad” in the run-up to the 2012 London Olympics. In this context of celebratory introspection, The Hollow Crown weaves a genealogical narrative consisting of the increasingly “glorious” medieval history depicted and “national” Shakespearean heritage in order to valorise 21st-century “Britishness”. Encouraging a reading of the histories as medieval history, the films construct an ostensibly inclusive, liberal-minded national identity grounded in this history. Moreover, medieval kingship is represented in distinctly sentimentalising and humanising terms, fostering emotional identification especially with the no longer ambivalent Hal/Henry V and making him an apt model for present-day British grandeur. However, the fact that the films in return marginalise female, Scottish, Irish and Welsh characters gives rise to doubts as to whether this vision of Shakespeare’s Middle Ages really is, as the producers claimed, “for everybody”.

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It is a well-documented fact that the Middle Ages have had a long history of instrumentalisation by nationalisms. 19th-century Eu¬rope in particular witnessed an origins craze during the process of nation-building. In the post-Shoah, post-modern West, on the other hand, we might expect this kind of medievalist master nar¬rative to have been consigned to the dustbin of history. And yet, as nationalism surges again in Europe, negotiations of national identi¬ties in medieval dress seem to have become fashionable once more. In order to come to terms with the fragmented and often contradictory presence of the Middle Ages in these discourses of national identity, I propose we consider medievalism a utilitarian product of the cultural memory. Rather than representing any ‘real’ Middle Ages, then, medievalism tailors available knowledge of the medieval past to the diverse social needs and ideologies of the present. This paper looks at a selection of Scottish examples of present-day medievalism in an attempt to investigate, in particular, the place of the medieval Wars of Scottish Independence in contemporary negotiations of ‘Scottishness’. Both the relationships envisioned between self and other and the role played by ‘the land’ in these cultural, social and political instances of national introspection offer starting points for critical inquiry. Moreover, the analysis of a scholarly intervention in the run-up to the 2014 Scottish independence referendum indicates an intriguing dialogue of academic and non-academic voices in the context of Scottish medievalist cultural memory. We thus find a wide array of uses of the Scottish Middle Ages, some of which feed into the burgeoning nationalism of recent years, while others offer more pensive and ambivalent answers to the question of what it means to be Scottish in the 21st century.

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An investigation of exchange market pressure against the pound sterling during the inter-war period. The main findings are that a) the behavior of UK fundamentals relative to those of the USA help to explain exchange market pressure against the pound; b) during the run up to devaluation in September 1931 the monetary authorities in the UK were acting to reduce domestic credit; but that c) additional pressure was brought against the pound from speculative sources. These findings relate to current thinking on the choice of exchange rate regime as even well behaved fundamentals may not be sufficient to sustain a currency on its peg.

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El retroceso de las costas acantiladas es un fenómeno muy extendido sobre los litorales rocosos expuestos a la incidencia combinada de los procesos marinos y meteorológicos que se dan en la franja costera. Este fenómeno se revela violentamente como movimientos gravitacionales del terreno esporádicos, pudiendo causar pérdidas materiales y/o humanas. Aunque el conocimiento de estos riesgos de erosión resulta de vital importancia para la correcta gestión de la costa, el desarrollo de modelos predictivos se encuentra limitado desde el punto de vista geomorfológico debido a la complejidad e interacción de los procesos de desarrollo espacio-temporal que tienen lugar en la zona costera. Los modelos de predicción publicados son escasos y con importantes inconvenientes: a) extrapolación, extienden la información de registros históricos; b) empíricos, sobre registros históricos estudian la respuesta al cambio de un parámetro; c) estocásticos, determinan la cadencia y magnitud de los eventos futuros extrapolando las distribuciones de probabilidad extraídas de catálogos históricos; d) proceso-respuesta, de estabilidad y propagación del error inexplorada; e) en Ecuaciones en Derivadas Parciales, computacionalmente costosos y poco exactos. La primera parte de esta tesis detalla las principales características de los modelos más recientes de cada tipo y, para los más habitualmente utilizados, se indican sus rangos de aplicación, ventajas e inconvenientes. Finalmente como síntesis de los procesos más relevantes que contemplan los modelos revisados, se presenta un diagrama conceptual de la recesión costera, donde se recogen los procesos más influyentes que deben ser tenidos en cuenta, a la hora de utilizar o crear un modelo de recesión costera con el objetivo de evaluar la peligrosidad (tiempo/frecuencia) del fenómeno a medio-corto plazo. En esta tesis se desarrolla un modelo de proceso-respuesta de retroceso de acantilados costeros que incorpora el comportamiento geomecánico de materiales cuya resistencia a compresión no supere los 5 MPa. El modelo simula la evolución espaciotemporal de un perfil-2D del acantilado que puede estar formado por materiales heterogéneos. Para ello, se acoplan la dinámica marina: nivel medio del mar, cambios en el nivel medio del lago, mareas y oleaje; con la evolución del terreno: erosión, desprendimiento rocoso y formación de talud de derrubios. El modelo en sus diferentes variantes es capaz de incluir el análisis de la estabilidad geomecánica de los materiales, el efecto de los derrubios presentes al pie del acantilado, el efecto del agua subterránea, la playa, el run-up, cambios en el nivel medio del mar o cambios (estacionales o interanuales) en el nivel medio de la masa de agua (lagos). Se ha estudiado el error de discretización del modelo y su propagación en el tiempo a partir de las soluciones exactas para los dos primeros periodos de marea para diferentes aproximaciones numéricas tanto en tiempo como en espacio. Los resultados obtenidos han permitido justificar las elecciones que minimizan el error y los métodos de aproximación más adecuados para su posterior uso en la modelización. El modelo ha sido validado frente a datos reales en la costa de Holderness, Yorkshire, Reino Unido; y en la costa norte del lago Erie, Ontario, Canadá. Los resultados obtenidos presentan un importante avance en los modelos de recesión costera, especialmente en su relación con las condiciones geomecánicas del medio, la influencia del agua subterránea, la verticalización de los perfiles rocosos y su respuesta ante condiciones variables producidas por el cambio climático (por ejemplo, nivel medio del mar, cambios en los niveles de lago, etc.). The recession of coastal cliffs is a widespread phenomenon on the rocky shores that are exposed to the combined incidence of marine and meteorological processes that occur in the shoreline. This phenomenon is revealed violently and occasionally, as gravitational movements of the ground and can cause material or human losses. Although knowledge of the risks of erosion is vital for the proper management of the coast, the development of cliff erosion predictive models is limited by the complex interactions between environmental processes and material properties over a range of temporal and spatial scales. Published prediction models are scarce and present important drawbacks: extrapolation, that extend historical records to the future; empirical, that based on historical records studies the system response against the change in one parameter; stochastic, that represent of cliff behaviour based on assumptions regarding the magnitude and frequency of events in a probabilistic framework based on historical records; process-response, stability and error propagation unexplored; PDE´s, highly computationally expensive and not very accurate. The first part of this thesis describes the main features of the latest models of each type and, for the most commonly used, their ranges of application, advantages and disadvantages are given. Finally as a synthesis of the most relevant processes that include the revised models, a conceptual diagram of coastal recession is presented. This conceptual model includes the most influential processes that must be taken into account when using or creating a model of coastal recession to evaluate the dangerousness (time/frequency) of the phenomenon to medium-short term. A new process-response coastal recession model developed in this thesis has been designed to incorporate the behavioural and mechanical characteristics of coastal cliffs which are composed of with materials whose compressive strength is less than 5 MPa. The model simulates the spatial and temporal evolution of a cliff-2D profile that can consist of heterogeneous materials. To do so, marine dynamics: mean sea level, waves, tides, lake seasonal changes; is coupled with the evolution of land recession: erosion, cliff face failure and associated protective colluvial wedge. The model in its different variants can include analysis of material geomechanical stability, the effect of debris present at the cliff foot, groundwater effects, beach and run-up effects, changes in the mean sea level or changes (seasonal or inter-annual) in the mean lake level. Computational implementation and study of different numerical resolution techniques, in both time and space approximations, and the produced errors are exposed and analysed for the first two tidal periods. The results obtained in the errors analysis allow us to operate the model with a configuration that minimizes the error of the approximation methods. The model is validated through profile evolution assessment at various locations of coastline retreat on the Holderness Coast, Yorkshire, UK and on the north coast of Lake Erie, Ontario, Canada. The results represent an important stepforward in linking material properties to the processes of cliff recession, in considering the effect of groundwater charge and the slope oversteeping and their response to changing conditions caused by climate change (i.e. sea level, changes in lakes levels, etc.).

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La investigación que se resume en este artículo, resultante de diversos trabajos realizados en el CEDEX [10, 12], tiene por objeto contrastar las formulaciones desarrolladas por diferentes autores en materia de rebases en distintas tipologías de diques de abrigo. Para ello, se realizó en primer lugar la recopilación y el análisis de las formulaciones existentes para estimar la tasa de rebase sobre diques en talud y verticales. Posteriormente, se llevó a cabo el contraste de dichas formulaciones con los resultados obtenidos en dos ensayos realizados en el Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas del CEDEX, en Cabo Prioriño, Ferrol y en la alineación tercera de Melilla. The research that is summarized in this article, resultant of several studies carried out in the CEDEX [10, 12], is focused in the existing methods to estimate overtopping rates developed by different authors. For that, the summary was carry out firstly we collected and analyzed the existing formulae, particularly for rubble mound and vertical breakwaters. These formulations was compared with the results obtained in two hydraulic model tests of the Hydraulic Research Laboratory (the Center of Studies of Ports and Coasts of the CEDEX, Madrid, Spain). Keywords: overtopping rates, rubble mound breakwater, vertical breakwater, crown wall, run-up.