Mud mass transport due to waves based on an empirical rheology model featured by hysteresis loop

A vertical 2-D water-mud numerical model is developed for estimating the rate of mud mass transport under wave action. A nonlinear semi-empirical rheology model featured by remarkable hysteresis loops in the relationships of the shear stress versus both the shear strain and the rate of shear strain of mud is applied to this water mud model. A logarithmic grid in the vertical direction is employed for numerical treatment, which increases the resolution of the flow in the neighborhood of both sides of the interface. Model verifications are given through comparisons between the calculated and the measured mud mass transport velocities as well as wave height changes. (C) 2006 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Second-order Stokes wave solutions for intefacial waves in three-layer stratified fluid with background current

In this paper, interfacial waves in three-layer stratified fluid with background current are investigated using a perturbation method, and the second-order asymptotic solutions of the velocity potentials and the second-order Stokes wave solutions of the associated elevations of the interfacial waves are presented based on the small amplitude wave theory, and the Kelvin-Helmholtz instability of interfacial waves is studied. As expected, for three-layer stratified fluid with background current, the first-order asymptotic solutions (linear wave solutions), dispersion relation and the second-order asymptotic solutions derived depend on not only the depths and densities of the three-layer fluid but also the background current of the fluids, and the second-order Stokes wave solutions of the associated elevations of the interfacial waves describe not only the second-order nonlinear wave-wave interactions between the interfacial waves but also the second-order nonlinear interactions between the interfacial waves and currents. It is also noted that the solutions obtained from the present work include the theoretical results derived by Chen et al (2005) as a special case. It also shows that with the given wave number k (real number) the interfacial waves may show Kelvin-Helmholtz instability.

Spectral and statistical characteristics of shoaling waves of Alleppey West coast of India

Some investigations on the spectral and statistical characteristics of deep water waves are available for Indian waters. But practically no systematic investigation on the shallow water wave spectral and probabilistic characteristics is made for any part of the Indian coast except for a few restricted studies. Hence a comprehensive study of the shallow water wave climate and their spectral and statistical characteristics for a location (Alleppey) along the southwest coast of India is undertaken based on recorded data. The results of the investigation are presented in this thesis.The thesis comprises of seven chapters

Water wave scattering by finite arrays of circular structures

The scattering of small amplitude water waves by a finite array of locally axisymmetric structures is considered. Regions of varying quiescent depth are included and their axisymmetric nature, together with a mild-slope approximation, permits an adaptation of well-known interaction theory which ultimately reduces the problem to a simple numerical calculation. Numerical results are given and effects due to regions of varying depth on wave loading and free-surface elevation are presented.

An integral equation method for a boundary value problem arising in unsteady water wave problems

In this paper we consider the 2D Dirichlet boundary value problem for Laplace’s equation in a non-locally perturbed half-plane, with data in the space of bounded and continuous functions. We show uniqueness of solution, using standard Phragmen-Lindelof arguments. The main result is to propose a boundary integral equation formulation, to prove equivalence with the boundary value problem, and to show that the integral equation is well posed by applying a recent partial generalisation of the Fredholm alternative in Arens et al [J. Int. Equ. Appl. 15 (2003) pp. 1-35]. This then leads to an existence proof for the boundary value problem. Keywords. Boundary integral equation method, Water waves, Laplace’s

Numerical modelling of two-way propagation of non-linear dispersive waves

We describe and implement a fully discrete spectral method for the numerical solution of a class of non-linear, dispersive systems of Boussinesq type, modelling two-way propagation of long water waves of small amplitude in a channel. For three particular systems, we investigate properties of the numerically computed solutions; in particular we study the generation and interaction of approximate solitary waves.

On the existence of extreme waves and the Stokes conjecture with vorticity

This is a study of singular solutions of the problem of traveling gravity water waves on flows with vorticity. We show that, for a certain class of vorticity functions, a sequence of regular waves converges to an extreme wave with stagnation points at its crests. We also show that, for any vorticity function, the profile of an extreme wave must have either a corner of 120° or a horizontal tangent at any stagnation point about which it is supposed symmetric. Moreover, the profile necessarily has a corner of 120° if the vorticity is nonnegative near the free surface.

The Stokes conjecture for waves with vorticity

We study stagnation points of two-dimensional steady gravity free-surface water waves with vorticity. We obtain for example that, in the case where the free surface is an injective curve, the asymptotics at any stagnation point is given either by the “Stokes corner flow” where the free surface has a corner of 120°, or the free surface ends in a horizontal cusp, or the free surface is horizontally flat at the stagnation point. The cusp case is a new feature in the case with vorticity, and it is not possible in the absence of vorticity. In a second main result we exclude horizontally flat singularities in the case that the vorticity is 0 on the free surface. Here the vorticity may have infinitely many sign changes accumulating at the free surface, which makes this case particularly difficult and explains why it has been almost untouched by research so far. Our results are based on calculations in the original variables and do not rely on structural assumptions needed in previous results such as isolated singularities, symmetry and monotonicity.

Interaction of equatorial waves through resonance with the diurnal cycle of tropical heating

In this work, a new theoretical mechanism is presented in which equatorial Rossby and inertio-gravity wave modes may interact with each other through resonance with the diurnal cycle of tropical deep convection. We have adopted the two-layer incompressible equatorial primitive equations forced by a parametric heating that roughly represents deep convection activity in the tropical atmosphere. The heat source was parametrized in the simplest way according to the hypothesis that it is proportional to the lower-troposphere moisture convergence, with the background moisture state function mimicking the structure of the ITCZ. In this context, we have investigated the possibility of resonant interaction between equatorially trapped Rossby and inertio-gravity modes through the diurnal cycle of the background moisture state function. The reduced dynamics of a single resonant duo shows that when this diurnal variation is considered, a Rossby wave mode can undergo significant amplitude modulations when interacting with an inertio-gravity wave mode, which is not possible in the context of the resonant triad non-linear interaction. Therefore, the results suggest that the diurnal variation of the ITCZ can be a possible dynamical mechanism that leads the Rossby waves to be significantly affected by high frequency modes.

The modulational instability in deep water under the action of wind and dissipation

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

Solid mass falling into the reservoirs shallow water equations validity from the engineering point of view

Water waves generated by a solid mass is a complex phenomenon discussed in this paper by numerical and experimental approaches. A model based on shallow water equations with shocks (Saint Venant) has developed. It can reproduce the amplitude and the energy of the wave quite well, but because it consistently generates a hydraulic jump, it is able to reproduce the profile, in the case of high relative thickness of slide, but in the case of small relative thickness it is unable to reproduce the amplitude of the wave. As the momentum conservation is not verified during the phase of wave creation, a second technique based on discharge transfer coefficient α, is introduced at the zone of impact. Numerical tests have been performed and validated this technique from the experimental results of the wave's height obtained in a flume.

Propagation of ship waves on a sloping bottom

The numerical model FUNWAVE was adapted in order to simulate the generation and propagation of ship waves to shore, including phenomena such as refraction, diffraction, currents and breaking of waves. Results are shown for Froude numbers equal to 0.8, 1.0 and 1.1, in order to verify the refraction of the wave pattern, identify breaking conditions and to investigate the wave generation scheme as a moving pressure at the free surface. © 2009 World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd.

Waves generated by two or more ships in a channel

The numerical model FUNWAVE+Ship simulates the generation and propagation of ship waves to shore, including phenomena such as refraction, diffraction, currents and breaking of waves. The interaction of two wave trains, generated by ships moving either in the same direction at different speeds or in opposite directions, is studied. Focus is given to the wave orbital velocities and to the free surface pattern.

Finite time blow-up and breaking of solitary wind waves

The evolution of surface water waves in finite depth under wind forcing is reduced to an antidissipative Korteweg-de Vries-Burgers equation. We exhibit its solitary wave solution. Antidissipation accelerates and increases the amplitude of the solitary wave and leads to blow-up and breaking. Blow-up occurs in finite time for infinitely large asymptotic space so it is a nonlinear, dispersive, and antidissipative equivalent of the linear instability which occurs for infinite time. Due to antidissipation two given arbitrary and adjacent planes of constant phases of the solitary wave acquire different velocities and accelerations inducing breaking. Soliton breaking occurs in finite space in a time prior to the blow-up. We show that the theoretical growth in amplitude and the time of breaking are both testable in an existing experimental facility.

San Diego region historic wave and sea level data report : Coast of California Storm and Tidal Waves Study /

Mode of access: Internet.