966 resultados para Swash zone sediment transport
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Moreton Island and several other large siliceous sand dune islands and mainland barrier deposits in SE Queensland represent the distal, onshore component of an extensive Quaternary continental shelf sediment system. This sediment has been transported up to 1000 km along the coast and shelf of SE Australia over multiple glacioeustatic sea-level cycles. Stratigraphic relationships and a preliminary Optically Stimulated Luminance (OSL) chronology for Moreton Island indicate a middle Pleistocene age for the large majority of the deposit. Dune units exposed in the centre of the island and on the east coast have OSL ages that indicate deposition occurred between approximately 540 ka and 350 ka BP, and at around 96±10 ka BP. Much of the southern half of the island has a veneer of much younger sediment, with OSL ages of 0.90±0.11 ka, 1.28±0.16 ka, 5.75±0.53 ka and <0.45 ka BP. The younger deposits were partially derived from the reworking of the upper leached zone of the much older dunes. A large parabolic dune at the northern end of the island, OSL age of 9.90±1.0 ka BP, and palaeosol exposures that extend below present sea level suggest the Pleistocene dunes were sourced from shorelines positioned several to tens of metres lower than, and up to few kilometres seaward of the present shoreline. Given the lower gradient of the inner shelf a few km seaward of the island, it seems likely that periods of intermediate sea level (e.g. ~20 m below present) produced strongly positive onshore sediment budgets and the mobilisation of dunes inland to form much of what now comprises Moreton Island. The new OSL ages and comprehensive OSL chronology for the Cooloola deposit, 100 km north of Moreton Island, indicate that the bulk of the coastal dune deposits in SE Queensland were emplaced between approximately 540 ka BP and prior to the Last Interglacial. This chronostratigraphic information improves our fundamental understanding of long-term sediment transport and accumulation on large-scale continental shelf sediment systems.
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The framework of sediment budget concepts provides a formalized procedure to account for the various components of sediment flux and the changes of volume that occur within a given region. Sediment budget methodology can be useful in a number of coastal engineering and research applications, including: inferring the amount of onshore sediment transport for a nearshore system that contains an "excess of sediment", determining sediment deficits to downdrift beaches as a result of engineering works at navigational entrances, evaluating the performance of a beach nourishment project, inferring the distribution of longshore sediment transport across the surf zone, etc. This chapter reviews briefly the governing equations for sediment budget calculations, considers various measurement and other bases for determining the sediment flux components necessary to apply the sediment budget concept and finally for illustration purposes, applies the sediment budget concept to several examples. (PDF contains 52 pages.)
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Five diagnostic experiments with a 3D baroclinic hydrodynamic and sediment transport model ECOMSED in couple with the third generation wave model SWAN and the Grant-Madsen bottom boundary layer model driven by the monthly sediment load of the Yellow River, were conducted to separately diagnose effects of different hydrodynamic factors on transport of suspended sediment discharged from the Yellow River in the Bohai Sea. Both transport and spatio-temporal distribution of suspended sediment concentration in the Bohai Sea were numerially simulated. It could be concluded that suspended sediment discharged from the Yellow River cannot be delivered in long distance under the condition of tidal current. Almost all of sediments from the Yellow River are deposited outside the delta under the condition of wind-driven current, and only very small of them are transported faraway. On the basis of wind forcing, sediments from the Yellow River are mainly transported north-northwestward, and others which are first delivered to the Laizhou Bay are continuously moved northward. An obvious 3D structure characteristic of sediment transport is produced in the wind-driven and tide-induced residual circulation condition. Transport patterns at all layers are generally consistent with circulation structure, but there is apparent deviation between the depth-averaged sediment flux and the circulation structure. The phase of temporal variation of sediment concentration is consistent with that of the bottom shear stress, both of which are proved to have a ten-day cycle in wave and current condition.
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Understanding the dynamics of fine sediment transport across the upper intertidal zone is critical in managing the erosion and accretion of intertidal areas, and in managed realignment/estuarine habitat recreation strategies. This paper examines the transfer of sediments between salt marsh and mudflat environments in two contrasting macrotidal estuaries: the Seine (France) and the Medway (UK), using data collected during two joint field seasons undertaken by the Anglo-French RIMEW project (Rives-Manche Estuary Watch). High-resolution ADCP, Altimeter, OBS and ASM measurements from mudflat and marsh surface environments have been combined with sediment trap data to examine short-term sediment transport processes under spring tide and storm flow conditions. In addition, the longer-term accumulation of sediment in each salt marsh system has been examined via radiometric dating of sediment cores. In the Seine, rapid sediment accumulation and expansion of salt marsh areas, and subsequent loss of open intertidal mudflats, is a major problem, and the data collected here indicate a distinct net landward flux of sediments into the marsh interior. Suspended sediment fluxes are much higher than in the Medway estuary (averaging 0.09 g/m(3)/s), and vertical accumulation rates at the salt marsh/mudflat boundary exceed 3 cm/y. Suspended sediment data collected during storm surge conditions indicate that significant in-wash of fine sediments into the marsh interior can occur during (and following) these high-magnitude events. In contrast to the Seine, the Medway is undergoing erosion and general loss of salt marsh areas. Suspended sediment fluxes are of the order of 0.03 g/m(3)/s, and the marsh system here has much lower rates of vertical accretion (sediment accumulation rates are ca. 4 mm/y). Current velocity data for the Medway site indicate higher velocities on the ebb tide than occur on the flood tide, which may be sufficient to remobilise sediments deposited on the previous tide and so force net removal of material from the marsh.
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Tese de dout., Ciências do Mar, Faculdade de Ciências do Mar e do Ambiente, Univ. do Algarve, 2003
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Os aspectos morfodinâmicos relacionados à erosão ou acresção da linha de costa são alguns dos assuntos analisados na gestão das zonas costeiras que vêem sendo tratada em todo mundo no sentido de monitorar e proteger essas zonas. Esta tese objetiva analisar o comportamento da morfodinâmica costeira de Salinópolis, relacionando-o ao uso da orla oceânica. A área de estudo foi compartimentada em três setores: Oeste (praias da Corvina e do Maçarico), Central (praia do Farol Velho) e Leste (praia do Atalaia). A metodologia consistiu na: (a) aquisição e tratamento de imagens multitemporais (1988-2001-2013) do satélite Landsat 5 TM, 7 ETM e 8 OLI; (b) aplicação de entrevistas/questionários com banhistas, (c) aquisição de dados de campo durante as estações chuvosa (26, 27, 28/04/2013) e menos chuvosa (04, 05, 06/10/2013); e (d) análise laboratorial para o tratamento dos dados adquiridos em campo (topografia das praias estudadas, amostragem de sedimentos superficiais das mesmas e com o uso de armadilhas, e medições oceanográficas de ondas, marés, correntes e turbidez). Foram feitas as representações gráficas dos perfis topográficos das praias, calculados os parâmetros estatísticos granulométricos de Folk & Ward (1957), as taxas do transporte sedimentar nas praias e os parâmetros morfométricos de Short & Hesp (1982), estes últimos foram calculados com o intuito de relacioná-los aos estados morfodinâmicos de praias propostos por Wright & Short (1984) e Masselink & Short (1993). Para a classificação da costa oceânica de Salinópolis em termos de uso e ocupação foi utilizado o decreto nº 5.300 de 7 de dezembro de 2004. A partir das pesquisas sobre a urbanização na costa e das obras situadas nos ambientes costeiros foi utilizada uma matriz proposta por Farinaccio & Tessler (2010) que lista uma série de impactos ambientais, e o quadro de geoindicadores do comportamento da linha de costa proposto por Bush et al. (1999), para a identificação de locais com vulnerabilidade à erosão ou acresção. Para as condições oceanográficas em cada praia e periculosidade ao banho nas mesmas, foram integralizados os dados de ondas, de correntes, de morfodinâmica praial e questionários aplicados com banhistas. Atualmente, a orla oceânica de Salinópolis possui diferentes características quanto à utilização e conservação, abrangendo desde a tipologia de orlas naturais (Classe A) até orlas com urbanização consolidada (Classe C). A primeira ocorre nos extremos da área de estudo e, a segunda, na região da sede municipal. Quatro tipos de praias foram identificados segundo a exposição marítima e o grau das condições oceanográficas: tipo 1 (Maçarico), tipo 2 (Corvina), tipo 3 (Farol Velho) e tipo 4 (Atalaia). O trecho de costa com maiores impactos ambientais e com elevada erosão costeira localiza-se na praia do Farol Velho. O grau de periculosidade ao banho foi de 4 (praia do Maçarico) a 7 (praia do Atalaia) – médio a alto grau de risco. As praias de Salinópolis apresentam declives suaves (< 1,5°), grandes variações na linha de costa entre as estações do ano (9,6 a 88, 4 m) e volume sedimentar variável dependendo do grau de exposição das praias ao oceano aberto. Predominou o estado morfodinâmico dissipativo (Ω>5,5) para estas praias, mas com ocorrência do estado de banco e calha longitudinais (4,7<Ω<5,5) no setor oeste. As macromarés na área de estudo apresentaram altura máxima de 5,3 m (Setor Central, durante a estação menos chuvosa) e mínima de 4 m no mesmo setor, durante a estação chuvosa. As correntes longitudinais foram mais intensas no setor leste (>0,45 m/s) durante as duas estaçoes do ano. As alturas de ondas foram também maiores no setor leste (máximo de 1,05 m durante a maré enchente na estação menos chuvosa) e os períodos de ondas foram mais curtos (<4,5 s) no setor oeste. A média granulométrica obtida dos sedimentos coletados na face praial apresentou escala mais freqüente entre 2,6 a 2,8 phi, indicando a predominância de areia fina. O grau de seleção predominante dos sedimentos foi de 0,2 a 0,5 phi (muito bem selecionados e bem selecionados), e da assimetria foi de positiva (0,10 a 0,30) e de aproximadamente simétrica (-0,10 a 0,10). O grau de curtose variou desde muito platicúrtica (<0,67) a muito leptocúrtica (1,50 a 3,00). Foram observados eventos de acresção sedimentar da estação chuvosa a menos chuvosa. De 22/07/1988 a 28/08/2013 (25 anos) também houve predomínio de acresção, onde o avanço médio linear da linha de costa foi de 190,26 m. O recuo médio linear obtido para toda área de estudo foi de -42,25 m. Áreas com maior erosão são pontuais: divisas das praias da Corvina e Maçarico, e Farol Velho e Atalaia. Os traps portáteis indicaram uma maior quantidade de sedimentos transportados longitudinalmente na estação menos chuvosa (Mín. 280 g/m3: enchente, setor oeste; Máx. 1098 g/m3: vazante, setor leste). Nos traps de espraiamento, o balanço entre a quantidade de sedimentos entrando e saindo nas praias foi menor no setor central (Mín. 80 g/m3: vazante, estação menos chuvosa; Máx. 690 g/m3: enchente, estação menos chuvosa). A circulação costeira sedimentar é proveniente, principalmente, do efeito das marés, com direção governada pela enchente e vazante dos rios que atravessam a costa. Os dados indicam o transporte longitudinal de sedimentos da ilha de Atalaia e rio Sampaio para o setor oeste e as margens das faixas praiais.
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We use digital seismic reflection profiles within a 1° * 1° survey area on the Cocos Ridge (COCOS6N) to study the extent and timing of sedimentation and sediment redistribution on the Cocos Ridge. The survey was performed to understand how sediment focusing might affect paleoceanographic flux measurements in a region known for significant downslope transport. COCOS6N contains ODP Site 1241 to ground truth the seismic stratigraphy, and there is a seamount ridge along the base of the ridge that forms a basin (North Flank Basin) to trap sediments transported downslope. Using the Site 1241 seismic stratigraphy and densities extrapolated from wireline logging, we document mass accumulation rates (MARs) since 11.2 Ma. The average sediment thickness at COCOS6N is 196 m, ranging from outcropping basalt at the ridge crest to ~ 400 m at North Flank Basin depocenters. Despite significant sediment transport, the average sedimentation over the entire area is well correlated to sediment fluxes at Site 1241. A low mass accumulation rate (MAR) interval is associated with the 'Miocene carbonate crash' interval even though COCOS6N was at the equator at that time and relatively shallow. Highest MAR occurs within the late Miocene-early Pliocene biogenic bloom interval. Lowest average MAR is in the Pleistocene, as plate tectonic motions caused COCOS6N to leave the equatorial productivity zone. The Pliocene and Pleistocene also exhibit higher loss of sediment from the ridge crest and transport to North Flank Basin. Higher tidal energy on the ridge caused by tectonic movement toward the margin increased sediment focusing in the younger section.
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Thirteen sediment samples, including calcareous ooze, sandy clay, volcanic sand, gravel, and volcanic breccia, from Ocean Drilling Program (ODP) Sites 732B, 734B, 734G and Conrad Cruise 27-9, Station 17, were examined. Contents of major and trace elements were determined using XRF or ICP (on samples <0.5 g). Determinations of rare earth elements (REE) were performed using ICP-MS. Mineralogy was determined using XRD. On the basis of the samples studied, the sediments accumulating in the Atlantis II Fracture Zone are characterized by generally high MgO, Cr, and Ni contents compared with other deep-sea sediments. A variety of sources are reflected in the mineralogy and geochemistry of these sediments. Serpentine, brucite, magnetite, and high MgO, Cr, and Ni contents indicate derivation from ultramafic basement. The occurrence of albite, analcime, primary mafic minerals, and smectite/chlorite in some samples, coupled with high SiO2, Al2O3, TiO2, Fe2O3, V, and Y indicate contribution from basaltic basement. A third major sediment source is characterized as biogenic material and is reflected primarily in the presence of carbonate minerals, and high CaO, Sr, Pb, and Zn in certain samples. Kaolinite, illite, quartz, and some chlorite are most likely derived from continental areas or other parts of the ocean by long-distance sediment transport in surface or other ocean currents. Proportions of source materials in the sediments reflect the thickness of the sediment cover, slope of the seafloor, and the nature of and proximity to basement lithologies. REE values are low compared to other deep-sea sediments and indicate no evidence of hydrothermal activity in the Atlantis II Fracture Zone sediments. This is supported by major- and trace-element data.
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This study documents two different modes of berm development: (I) vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and (2) horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm. Concurrent high-frequency measurements of bed elevation and the associated wave runup distribution reveal the details of each of these berm growth modes. In mode I sediment is eroded from the inner surf and lower swash zone where swash interactions are prevalent. The net transport of this sediment is landward only, resulting in accretion onto the upper beach face and over the berm crest. The final outcome is a steepening of the beach face gradient, a change in the profile shape towards concave and rapid vertical and horizontal growth of the berm. In mode 2 sediment is eroded from the lower two-thirds of the active swash zone during the rising tide and is transported both landward and seaward. On the falling tide sediment is eroded from the inner surf and transported landward to backfill the zone eroded on the rising tide. The net result is relatively slow steepening of the beach face, a change of the profile shape towards convex, and horizontal progradation through the formation of a neap berm. The primary factor determining which mode of berm growth occurs is the presence or absence of swash overtopping at the time of sediment accumulation on the beach face. This depends on the current phase of the spring-neap tide cycle, the wave runup height (and indirectly offshore wave conditions) and the height of the pre-existing berm. A conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth. (c) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
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The Comprehensive Everglades Restoration includes plans to restore freshwater delivery to Taylor Slough, a shallow drainage basin in the Southern Everglades, ultimately resulting in increased freshwater flow to the downstream Taylor River estuary. The effect of altered hydrologic regime on the transport dynamics of flocculent, estuarine detritus is not well understood. We utilized a paramagnetic sediment tracer to examine detrital transport in three Taylor River pond/creek pairs during early wet versus late wet transition season estuarine flow conditions. Flux of floc tracer was greatest in the downstream direction during all observations, and was most pronounced during the early wet season, coincident with shallower water depth and faster discharge from northern Taylor River. Floc tracer was more likely to move upriver during the late wet/dry season. We observed a floc tracer transport velocity of approximately 1.74 to 1.78 m/day across both seasonal hydrologic conditions. Tracer dynamics were also surprisingly site-dependent, which may highlight the importance of channel geomorphology in regulating hydrologic and sediment transport conditions. Our data suggest that restoration of surface water delivery to Taylor River will influence downstream loading of detritus material into riverine ponds. These detrital inputs have the potential to enhance ecosystem primary productivity and/or secondary productivity.
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Geomorphic process units have been derived in order to allow quantification via GIS techniques at a catchment scale. Mass movement rates based on existing field measurements are employed in the budget calculations. In the Kärkevagge catchment, Northern Sweden, 80% of the area can be identified either as a source area for sediments or as a zone where sediments are deposited. The overall budget for the slopes beneath the rockwalls in the Kärkevagge is approximately 680 t/a whilst about 150 t a-1 are transported into the fluvial system.
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In natural waterways and estuaries, the understanding of turbulent mixing is critical to the knowledge of sediment transport, stormwater runoff during flood events, and release of nutrient-rich wastewater into ecosystems. In the present study, some field measurements were conducted in a small subtropical estuary with micro-tidal range and semi-diurnal tides during king tide conditions: i. e., the tidal range was the largest for both 2009 and 2010. The turbulent velocity measurements were performed continuously at high-frequency (50Hz) for 60 h. Two acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs) were sampled simultaneously in the middle estuarine zone, and a third ADV was deployed in the upper estuary for 12 h only. The results provided an unique characterisation of the turbulence in both middle and upper estuarine zones under the king tide conditions. The present observations showed some marked differences between king tide and neap tide conditions. During the king tide conditions, the tidal forcing was the dominant water exchange and circulation mechanism in the estuary. In contrast, the long-term oscillations linked with internal and external resonance played a major role in the turbulent mixing during neap tides. The data set showed further that the upper estuarine zone was drastically less affected by the spring tide range: the flow motion remained slow, but the turbulent velocity data were affected by the propagation of a transient front during the very early flood tide motion at the sampling site. © 2012 Springer Science+Business Media B.V.