Numerical modeling of water wave interaction with a soft mud bed

A vertical 2-D numerical model is presented for simulating the interaction between water waves and a soft mud bed. Taking into account nonlinear rheology, a semi-empirical rheological model is applied to this water-mud model, reflecting the combined visco-elasto-plastic properties of soft mud under such oscillatory external forces as water waves. In order to increase the resolution of the flow in the neighborhood of both sides of the inter-surface, a logarithmic grid in the vertical direction is employed for numerical treatment. Model verifications are given through comparisons between the calculated and the measured mud mass transport velocities as well as wave height changes.

On the nonlinear integral transform of an ocean wave spectrum into an along-track interferometric synthetic aperture radar image spectrum

We present a new nonlinear integral transform relating the ocean wave spectrum to the along-track interferometric synthetic aperture radar (AT-INSAR) image spectrum. The AT-INSAR, which is a synthetic aperture radar (SAR) employing two antennas displaced along the platform's flight direction, is considered to be a better instrument for imaging ocean waves than the SAR. This is because the AT-INSAR yields the phase spectrum and not only the amplitude spectrum as with the conventional SAR. While the SAR and AT-INSAR amplitude spectra depend strongly on the modulation of the normalized radar cross section (NRCS) by the long ocean waves, which is poorly known, the phase spectrum depends only weakly on this modulation. By measuring the phase difference between the signals received by both antennas, AT-INSAR measures the radial component of the orbital velocity associated with the ocean waves, which is related to the ocean wave height field by a well-known transfer function. The nonlinear integral transform derived in this paper differs from the one previously derived by Bao et al. [1999] by an additional term containing the derivative of the radial component of the orbital velocity associated with the long ocean waves. By carrying out numerical simulations, we show that, in general, this additional term cannot be neglected. Furthermore, we present two new quasi-linear approximations to the nonlinear integral transform relating the ocean wave spectrum to the AT-INSAR phase spectrum.

The effect of the spectral distribution of wave energy on the performance of a bottom hinged flap type wave energy converter

The power output from a wave energy converter is typically predicted using experimental and/or numerical modelling techniques. In order to yield meaningful results the relevant characteristics of the device, together with those of the wave climate must be modelled with sufficient accuracy.

The wave climate is commonly described using a scatter table of sea states defined according to parameters related to wave height and period. These sea states are traditionally modelled with the spectral distribution of energy defined according to some empirical formulation. Since the response of most wave energy converters vary at different frequencies of excitation, their performance in a particular sea state may be expected to depend on the choice of spectral shape employed rather than simply the spectral parameters. Estimates of energy production may therefore be affected if the spectral distribution of wave energy at the deployment site is not well modelled. Furthermore, validation of the model may be affected by differences between the observed full scale spectral energy distribution and the spectrum used to model it.

This paper investigates the sensitivity of the performance of a bottom hinged flap type wave energy converter to the spectral energy distribution of the incident waves. This is investigated experimentally using a 1:20 scale model of Aquamarine Power’s Oyster wave energy converter, a bottom hinged flap type device situated at the European Marine Energy Centre (EMEC) in approximately 13m water depth. The performance of the model is tested in sea states defined according to the same wave height and period parameters but adhering to different spectral energy distributions.

The results of these tests show that power capture is reduced with increasing spectral bandwidth. This result is explored with consideration of the spectral response of the device in irregular wave conditions. The implications of this result are discussed in the context of validation of the model against particular prototype data sets and estimation of annual energy production.

Feasibility study on multifunctional artificial reefs for the Azores

Tese de Doutoramento, Geografia (Ordenamento do Território), 25 de Novembro de 2013, Universidade dos Açores.

Projection of global wave climate change towards the end of the 21st century

Wind generated waves at the sea surface are of outstanding importance for both their practical relevance in many aspects, such as coastal erosion, protection, or safety of navigation, and for their scientific relevance in modifying fluxes at the air-sea interface. So far long-term changes in ocean wave climate have been studied mostly from a regional perspective with global dynamical studies emerging only recently. Here a global wave climate study is presented, in which a global wave model (WAM) is driven by atmospheric forcing from a global climate model (ECHAM5) for present day and potential future climate conditions represented by the IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel for Climate Change) A1B emission scenario. It is found that changes in mean and extreme wave climate towards the end of the twenty-first century are small to moderate, with the largest signals being a poleward shift in the annual mean and extreme significant wave heights in the mid-latitudes of both hemispheres, more pronounced in the Southern Hemisphere, and most likely associated with a corresponding shift in mid-latitude storm tracks. These changes are broadly consistent with results from the few studies available so far. The projected changes in the mean wave periods, associated with the changes in the wave climate in the mid to high latitudes, are also shown, revealing a moderate increase in the equatorial eastern side of the ocean basins. This study presents a step forward towards a larger ensemble of global wave climate projections required to better assess robustness and uncertainty of potential future wave climate change.

Modelagem do clima de ondas e seus efeitos sobre as feições morfológicas costeiras no litoral setentrional do Rio Grande do Norte

This thesis presents the results of application of SWAN Simulating WAves Nearshore numerical model, OF third generation, which simulates the propagation and dissipation of energy from sea waves, on the north continental shelf at Rio Grande do Norte, to determine the wave climate, calibrate and validate the model, and assess their potential and limitations for the region of interest. After validation of the wave climate, the results were integrated with information from the submarine relief, and plant morphology of beaches and barrier islands systems. On the second phase, the objective was to analyze the evolution of the wave and its interaction with the shallow seabed, from three transverse profiles orientation from N to S, distributed according to the parallel longitudinal, X = 774000-W, 783000-W e 800000-W. Subsequently, it was were extracted the values of directional waves and winds through all the months between november 2010 to november 2012, to analyze the impact of these forces on the movement area, and then understand the behavior of the morphological variations according to temporal year variability. Based on the results of modeling and its integration with correlated data, and planimetric variations of Soledade and Minhoto beach systems and Ponta do Tubarão and Barra do Fernandes barrier islands systems, it was obtained the following conclusions: SWAN could reproduce and determine the wave climate on the north continental shelf at RN, the results show a similar trend for the measurements of temporal variations of significant height (HS, m) and the mean wave period (Tmed, s); however, the results of parametric statistics were low for the estimates of the maximum values in most of the analyzed periods compared data of PT 1 and PT 2 (measurement points), with alternation of significant wave heights, at times overrated with occasional overlap of swell episodes. By analyzing the spatial distribution of the wave climate and its interaction with the underwater compartmentalization, it was concluded that there is interaction of wave propagation with the seafloor, showing change in significant heights whenever it interacts with the seafloor features (beachrocks, symmetric and asymmetric longitudinal dunes, paleochannel, among others) in the regions of outer, middle and inner shelf. And finally, it is concluded that the study of the stability areas allows identifications of the most unstable regions, confirming that the greatest range of variation indicates greater instability and consequent sensitivity to hydrodynamic processes operating in the coastal region, with positive or negative variation, especially at Ponta do Tubarão and Barra do Fernandes barrier islands systems, where they are more susceptible to waves impacts, as evidenced in retreat of the shoreline

Wave driven devices for the oxygenation of bottom layers

This thesis discusses the design of a system to use wave energy to pump oxygen-rich surface water towards the bottom of the sea. A simple device, called OXYFLUX, is proposed in a scale model and tested in a wave flume in order to validate its supposed theoretical functioning. Once its effectiveness has been demonstrated, a overset mesh, CFD model has been developed and validated by means of the physical model results. Both numerical and physical results show how wave height affects the behavior of the device. Wave heights lower than about 0.5 m overtop the floater and fall into it. As the wave height increases, phase shift between water surface and vertical displacement of the device also increases its influence on the functioning mechanism. In these situations, with wave heights between 0.5 and 0.9 m, the downward flux is due to the higher head established in the water column inside the device respect to the outside wave field. Furthermore, as the wave height grows over 0.9 m, water flux inverts the direction thanks to depression caused by the wave crest pass over the floater. In this situation the wave crest goes over the float but does not go into it and it draws water from the bottom to the surface through the device pipe. By virtue of these results a new shape of the floater has been designed and tested in CFD model. Such new geometry is based on the already known Lazzari’s profile and it aims to grab as much water as possible from the wave crest during the emergence of the floater from the wave field. Results coming from the new device are compared with the first ones in order to identify differences between the two shapes and their possible areas of application.

Decade Wind and Wave Data for NW Iberia, Cabo Sillerio

Seafloor sediment mobilization on the inner Northwest Iberian continental shelf is caused largely by ocean surface waves. The temporal and spatial variability in the wave height, wave period, and wave direction has a profound effect on local sediment mobilization, leading to distinct sediment mobilization scenarios. Six grain-size specific sediment mobilization scenarios, representing seasonal average and storm conditions, were simulated with a physics-based numerical model. Model inputs included meteorological and oceanographic data in conjunction with seafloor grain-size and the shelf bathymetric data. The results show distinct seasonal variations, most importantly in wave height, leading to sediment mobilization, specifically on the inner shelf shallower than 30 m water depth where up to 49% of the shelf area is mobilized. Medium to severe storm events are modeled to mobilize up to 89% of the shelf area above 150 m water depth. The frequency of each of these seasonal and storm-related sediment mobilization scenarios is addressed using a decade of meteorological and oceanographic data. The temporal and spatial patterns of the modeled sediment mobilization scenarios are discussed in the context of existing geological and environmental processes and conditions to assist scientific, industrial and environmental efforts that are directly affected by sediment mobilization. Examples, where sediment mobilization plays a vital role, include seafloor nutrient advection, recurrent arrival of oil from oil-spill-laden seafloor sediment, and bottom trawling impacts.

Wave Statistics and Space-time Extremes via Stereo Imaging

We present an analysis of the space-time dynamics of oceanic sea states exploiting stereo imaging techniques. In particular, a novel Wave Acquisition Stereo System (WASS) has been developed and deployed at the oceanographic tower Acqua Alta in the Northern Adriatic Sea, off the Venice coast in Italy. The analysis of WASS video measurements yields accurate estimates of the oceanic sea state dynamics, the associated directional spectra and wave surface statistics that agree well with theoretical models. Finally, we show that a space-time extreme, defined as the expected largest surface wave height over an area, is considerably larger than the maximum crest observed in time at a point, in agreement with theoretical predictions.

Use of a scrapped ship as a floating breakwater for shore protection

The purpose of this research is to assess the effectiveness of a ship used as a detached floating breakwater for coastal protection and forming salients of sand or tombolos. Floating breakwaters have been extensively used as port or coastal protection structures and display advantages in terms of construction and ecology, amongst others. However, the greatest problem these structures present is the limited range of wave heights and periods for which they are really effective. Furthermore, ships may be considered as floating structures which, used as breakwaters, would keep the advantages of floating breakwaters and would increase their range of applicability. The possibility of using ships at the conclusion of their useful life for this purpose would also involve greater economic and environmental advantages. Tests were carried out to assess the ship’s effectiveness as a detached floating breakwater using a scaled down physical model to determine the vessel’s transmission coefficient (Kt) as to regular waves with significant periods of 5 sec to 12 sec and significant wave heights of 1.5 m to 4 m at depths from 20 m to 35 m. The ship proves effective for waves up to 4 m significant height and significant periods up to 9 sec. Hanson and Kraus and Pilarzyk’s analytical models, which take transmission coefficients into account, were used to analyse the shore’s response to the breakwater protection. The results obtained show that salients form for waves with periods between 6 sec and 9 sec. It is also concluded that the depths tested are far different from the more usual shallow water involved in constructing detached breakwaters and the shore’s response is therefore scarce.

Caracterización multivariada de los temporales para su aplicación en el dimensionamiento del manto principal

En esta tesis se presenta una metodología para la caracterización del oleaje, dentro del marco de las nuevas Recomendaciones para Obras Marítimas (ROM 0.0.-00 y ROM 1.0-09), por ser una de las principales acciones que afectan a la estabilidad de las estructuras marítimas. Debido al carácter aleatorio intrínsecamente multivariado de la acción considerada, las tormentas, su caracterización paramétrica se realiza en términos de funciones cópula uniparamétricas. Las variables consideradas son altura de ola significante del pico de la tormenta, el periodo medio asociado y la magnitud, o número de olas, de todo el ciclo de solicitación. Para establecer un patrón teórico de evolución de la tormenta que permita extrapolar las muestras fuera de la región con datos se analizan los modelos teóricos existentes, comprobándose que no reproducen adecuadamente las tormentas constituidas por estados de mar con un peso importante de oleaje swell. Para evitar esta limitación se proponen cuatro modelos teóricos de evolución de tormentas con distintas formas geométricas. El análisis de los modelos existentes y los propuestos pone de relieve que el Modelo Magnitud Equivalente de Tormenta (EMS= Equivalent Magnitude Storm) con la forma triangular es el que mejor adapta las tormentas constituidas por estados de mar típicos del viento. Para tormentas con un mayor grado de desarrollo, el modelo teórico de tormenta EMS con la forma trapezoidal es el adecuado. De las aproximaciones propuestas para establecer el periodo medio de los sucesivos estados de mar del ciclo de solicitación. la propuesta por Martín Soldevilla et al., (2009) es la más versátil y , en general , mejor reproduce la evolución de todo tipo de tormentas. La caracterización de las tormentas se complementa con la altura de ola máxima. Debido a la mayor disponibilidad y longitud temporal de los datos sintéticos frente a las registros, la práctica totalidad de los análisis de extremos se realizan con tormentas sintéticas en las que la distribución de olas individuales es desconocida. Para evitar esta limitación se utilizan modelos teóricos de distribución de olas acordes a las características de cada uno de los estados de mar que conforman la tormenta sintética. Para establecer dichas características se utiliza la curtosis y en función de su valor la altura de ola máxima se determina asumiendo una determinada distribución de olas. Para estados de mar lineales la distribución de olas individuales de Rayleigh es la considerada. Para condiciones no lineales de gran ancho de banda el modelo de distribución de olas propuesto por Dawson, (2004) es el utilizado y si es de banda estrecha las predicciones de (Boccotti, (1989), Boccotti et al., (2013)) se compara con las resultantes del modelo de Dawson. La caracterización de la evolución de las tormentas en términos multivariados es aplicada al estudio de la progresión del daño del manto principal de diques en talud, y al rebase de las olas. Ambos aspectos cubren el segundo objetivo de la tesis en el que se propone una nueva formulación para el dimensionamiento de mantos constituidos por bloques cúbicos de hormigón. Para el desarrollo de esta nueva formulación se han utilizado los resultados recogidos en los estudios de estabilidad del manto principal de diques talud realizados en modelo físico a escala reducida en el Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEDEX) desde la década de los 80 empleando, en su mayoría, bloques paralelepípedos cúbicos de hormigón. Por este motivo y porque los últimos diques construidos en la costa Española utilizan este tipo de pieza, es por lo que la formulación planteada se centra en este tipo de pieza. Después de un primer análisis de las fórmulas de cálculo y de evolución existentes, se llega a la conclusión de que es necesario realizar un esfuerzo de investigación en este campo, así como ensayos en laboratorio y recogida de datos in-situ con base a desarrollar fórmulas de evolución de daño para mantos constituidos por piezas diferentes a la escollera, que tenga en cuenta las principales variables que condiciona su estabilidad. En esta parte de la tesis se propone un método de análisis de evolución de daño, que incluye el criterio de inicio de avería, adecuada para diques en talud constituidos por bloque cúbicos de hormigón y que considera la incidencia oblicua, el daño acumulado y el rebase. This thesis proposes a methodology to estimate sea waves, one of the main actions affecting the maritime structures stability, complying with (ROM 0.0.-00 & ROM 1.0-09.Due to the multivariate behavior of sea storms, the characterization of the structures of sea storms is done using copula function. The analyzed variables are the significant height wave, mean period and magnitude or number of waves during the storm history. The storm evolution in terms of the significant height wave and the mean period is also studied in other to analyze the progressive failure modes. The existing models of evolution are studied, verifying that these approximations do not adjust accurately for developed waves. To overcome this disadvantage, four evolution models are proposed, with some geometrical shapes associated to fit any development degree. The proposed Equivalent Magnitude Storm model, EMS, generally obtains the best results for any kind of storm (predominant sea, swell or both). The triangle is recommended for typical sea storms whereas the trapezoid shape is much more appropriate for more developed storm conditions.The Martín Soldevilla et al., (2009) approach to estimate the mean period is better than others approaches used.The storm characterization is completed with the maximum wave height of the whole storm history. Due to synthetic historical waves databases are more accessible and longer than recorded database, the extreme analyses are done with synthetic data. For this reason the individual waves’ distribution is not known. For that limitation to be avoided, and depending on the characteristics of every sea states, one theoretical model of waves is choose and used. The kurtosis parameter is used to distinguish between linear and nonlinear sea states. The Rayleigh model is used for the linear sea states. For the nonlinear sea states, Dawson, (2004) approach is used for non-narrow bandwidth storms, comparing the results with the Boccotti, (1989), Boccotti et al., (2013) approach, with is used for narrow bandwidth storms. The multivariate and storm evolution characterization is used to analyze of stone armour damage progression and wave overtopping discharge. Both aspects are included in the second part of the thesis, with a new formula is proposed to design cubes armour layer. The results the stability studies of armour layer, done in the Centre for Harbours and Coastal Studies (CEDEX) laboratory are used for defining a new stability formula. For this reason and because the last biggest breakwater built in Spain using the cube, the damage progression is analyze for this kind of concrete block. Before to analyze the existing formulae, it is concluded that it is necessary more investigation, more tests in laboratory and data gathering in situ to define damage evolution formulae to armour of other kind of pieces and that takes to account the principal variables. This thesis proposed a method to calculate the damage progression including oblique waves, accumulated damage, and overtopping effect. The method also takes account the beginning of the movement of the blocks.

Desarrollo de un Procedimiento Basado en Algoritmos de Optimización para el Dimensionado de Absorbedores Puntuales Aplicados a la Conversión de Energía Undimotriz

La energía transportada por el oleaje a través de los océanos (energía undimotriz) se enmarca dentro de las denominadas energías oceánicas. Su aprovechamiento para generar energía eléctrica (o ser aprovechada de alguna otra forma) es una idea reflejada ya hace más de dos siglos en una patente (1799). Desde entonces, y con especial intensidad desde los años 70, ha venido despertando el interés de instituciones ligadas al I+D+i y empresas del sector energético y tecnológico, debido principalmente a la magnitud del recurso disponible. Actualmente se puede considerar al sector en un estado precomercial, con un amplio rango de dispositivos y tecnologías en diferente grado de desarrollo en los que ninguno destaca sobre los otros (ni ha demostrado su viabilidad económica), y sin que se aprecie una tendencia a converger un único dispositivo (o un número reducido de ellos). El recurso energético que se está tratando de aprovechar, pese a compartir la característica de no-controlabilidad con otras fuentes de energía renovable como la eólica o la solar, presenta una variabilidad adicional. De esta manera, diferentes localizaciones, pese a poder presentar recursos de contenido energético similar, presentan oleajes de características muy diferentes en términos de alturas y periodos de oleaje, y en la dispersión estadística de estos valores. Esta variabilidad en el oleaje hace que cobre especial relevancia la adecuación de los dispositivos de aprovechamiento de energía undimotriz (WEC: Wave Energy Converter) a su localización, de cara a mejorar su viabilidad económica. Parece razonable suponer que, en un futuro, el proceso de diseño de un parque de generación undimotriz implique un rediseño (en base a una tecnología conocida) para cada proyecto de implantación en una nueva localización. El objetivo de esta tesis es plantear un procedimiento de dimensionado de una tecnología de aprovechamiento de la energía undimotriz concreta: los absorbedores puntuales. Dicha metodología de diseño se plantea como un problema de optimización matemático, el cual se resuelve utilizando un algoritmo de optimización bioinspirado: evolución diferencial. Este planteamiento permite automatizar la fase previa de dimensionado implementando la metodología en un código de programación. El proceso de diseño de un WEC es un problema de ingería complejo, por lo que no considera factible el planteamiento de un diseño completo mediante un único procedimiento de optimización matemático. En vez de eso, se platea el proceso de diseño en diferentes etapas, de manera que la metodología desarrollada en esta tesis se utilice para obtener las dimensiones básicas de una solución de referencia de WEC, la cual será utilizada como punto de partida para continuar con las etapas posteriores del proceso de diseño. La metodología de dimensionado previo presentada en esta tesis parte de unas condiciones de contorno de diseño definidas previamente, tales como: localización, características del sistema de generación de energía eléctrica (PTO: Power Take-Off), estrategia de extracción de energía eléctrica y concepto concreto de WEC). Utilizando un algoritmo de evolución diferencial multi-objetivo se obtiene un conjunto de soluciones factibles (de acuerdo con una ciertas restricciones técnicas y dimensionales) y óptimas (de acuerdo con una serie de funciones objetivo de pseudo-coste y pseudo-beneficio). Dicho conjunto de soluciones o dimensiones de WEC es utilizado como caso de referencia en las posteriores etapas de diseño. En el documento de la tesis se presentan dos versiones de dicha metodología con dos modelos diferentes de evaluación de las soluciones candidatas. Por un lado, se presenta un modelo en el dominio de la frecuencia que presenta importantes simplificaciones en cuanto al tratamiento del recurso del oleaje. Este procedimiento presenta una menor carga computacional pero una mayor incertidumbre en los resultados, la cual puede traducirse en trabajo adicional en las etapas posteriores del proceso de diseño. Sin embargo, el uso de esta metodología resulta conveniente para realizar análisis paramétricos previos de las condiciones de contorno, tales como la localización seleccionada. Por otro lado, la segunda metodología propuesta utiliza modelos en el domino estocástico, lo que aumenta la carga computacional, pero permite obtener resultados con menos incertidumbre e información estadística muy útil para el proceso de diseño. Por este motivo, esta metodología es más adecuada para su uso en un proceso de dimensionado completo de un WEC. La metodología desarrollada durante la tesis ha sido utilizada en un proyecto industrial de evaluación energética preliminar de una planta de energía undimotriz. En dicho proceso de evaluación, el método de dimensionado previo fue utilizado en una primera etapa, de cara a obtener un conjunto de soluciones factibles de acuerdo con una serie de restricciones técnicas básicas. La selección y refinamiento de la geometría de la solución geométrica de WEC propuesta fue realizada a posteriori (por otros participantes del proyecto) utilizando un modelo detallado en el dominio del tiempo y un modelo de evaluación económica del dispositivo. El uso de esta metodología puede ayudar a reducir las iteraciones manuales y a mejorar los resultados obtenidos en estas últimas etapas del proyecto. ABSTRACT The energy transported by ocean waves (wave energy) is framed within the so-called oceanic energies. Its use to generate electric energy (or desalinate ocean water, etc.) is an idea expressed first time in a patent two centuries ago (1799). Ever since, but specially since the 1970’s, this energy has become interesting for R&D institutions and companies related with the technological and energetic sectors mainly because of the magnitude of available energy. Nowadays the development of this technology can be considered to be in a pre-commercial stage, with a wide range of devices and technologies developed to different degrees but with none standing out nor economically viable. Nor do these technologies seem ready to converge to a single device (or a reduce number of devices). The energy resource to be exploited shares its non-controllability with other renewable energy sources such as wind and solar. However, wave energy presents an additional short-term variability due to its oscillatory nature. Thus, different locations may show waves with similar energy content but different characteristics such as wave height or wave period. This variability in ocean waves makes it very important that the devices for harnessing wave energy (WEC: Wave Energy Converter) fit closely to the characteristics of their location in order to improve their economic viability. It seems reasonable to assume that, in the future, the process of designing a wave power plant will involve a re-design (based on a well-known technology) for each implementation project in any new location. The objective of this PhD thesis is to propose a dimensioning method for a specific wave-energy-harnessing technology: point absorbers. This design methodology is presented as a mathematical optimization problem solved by using an optimization bio-inspired algorithm: differential evolution. This approach allows automating the preliminary dimensioning stage by implementing the methodology in programmed code. The design process of a WEC is a complex engineering problem, so the complete design is not feasible using a single mathematical optimization procedure. Instead, the design process is proposed in different stages, so the methodology developed in this thesis is used for the basic dimensions of a reference solution of the WEC, which would be used as a starting point for the later stages of the design process. The preliminary dimensioning methodology presented in this thesis starts from some previously defined boundary conditions such as: location, power take-off (PTO) characteristic, strategy of energy extraction and specific WEC technology. Using a differential multi-objective evolutionary algorithm produces a set of feasible solutions (according to certain technical and dimensional constraints) and optimal solutions (according to a set of pseudo-cost and pseudo-benefit objective functions). This set of solutions or WEC dimensions are used as a reference case in subsequent stages of design. In the document of this thesis, two versions of this methodology with two different models of evaluation of candidate solutions are presented. On the one hand, a model in the frequency domain that has significant simplifications in the treatment of the wave resource is presented. This method implies a lower computational load but increased uncertainty in the results, which may lead to additional work in the later stages of the design process. However, use of this methodology is useful in order to perform previous parametric analysis of boundary conditions such as the selected location. On the other hand, the second method uses stochastic models, increasing the computational load, but providing results with smaller uncertainty and very useful statistical information for the design process. Therefore, this method is more suitable to be used in a detail design process for full dimensioning of the WEC. The methodology developed throughout the thesis has been used in an industrial project for preliminary energetic assessment of a wave energy power plant. In this assessment process, the method of previous dimensioning was used in the first stage, in order to obtain a set of feasible solutions according to a set of basic technical constraints. The geometry of the WEC was refined and selected subsequently (by other project participants) using a detailed model in the time domain and a model of economic evaluation of the device. Using this methodology can help to reduce the number of design iterations and to improve the results obtained in the last stages of the project.

Coral mortality increases wave energy reaching shores protected by reef flats: Examples from the Seychelles

In the granitic Seychelles, many shores and beaches are fringed by coral reef flats which provide protection to shores from erosion by waves. The surfaces of these reef flats support a complex ecology. About 10 years ago their seaward zones were extensively covered by a rich coral growth, which reached approximately to mean low water level, but in 1998 this was largely killed by seawater warming. The resulting large expanses of dead coral skeletons in these locations are now disintegrating, and much of the subsequent modest recovery by new coral recruitment was set back by further mortalities. A mathematical model of wave energy reaching shorelines protected by coral reef flats has been applied to 14 Seychelles reefs. It is derived from equations which predict: (1) the raised water level, or wave set-up, on reef flats resulting from wave breaking, which depends upon offshore wave height and period, depth of still water over the reef flat and the reef crest profile, and (2) the decay of energy from reef edge to shoreline that is affected by width of reef flat, surface roughness, sea level rise and 'pseudo-sea level rise' created by increased depth resulting from disintegration of coral colonies. The model treats each reef as one entity, but because biota and zonation on reef flats are not homogenous, all reefs are divided into four zones. In each, cover by both living and dead biota was estimated for calculation of parameters, and then averaged to obtain input data for the model. All possible biological factors were taken into account, such as the ability of seagrass beds to grow upwards to match expected sea level rise, reduction in height of the reef flat in relation to sea level as zones of dead corals decay, and the observed 'rounding' of reef crests as erosion removes corals from those areas. Estimates were also made of all these factors for a time approximately a decade ago, representing a time before the mass coral mortality, and for approximately a decade in the future when the observed rapid state of dead coral colony disintegration is assumed to have reached an end point. Results of increased energy over the past decade explain observations of erosion in some sites in the Seychelles. Most importantly, it is estimated that the rise in energy reaching shores protected by fringing reefs will now accelerate more rapidly, such that the increase expected over the next decade will be approximately double than that seen over the past decade. (c) 2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs

An extended refraction-diffraction equation [Massel, S.R., 1993. Extended refraction-diffraction equation for surface waves. Coastal Eng. 19, 97-126] has been applied to predict wave transformation and breaking as well as wave-induced set-up on two-dimensional reef profiles of various shapes. A free empirical coefficient alpha in a formula for the average rate of energy dissipation [epsilon(b)] = (alpha rho g omega/8 pi)(root gh/C)(H-3/h) in the modified periodic bore model was found to be a function of the dimensionless parameter F-c0 = (g(1.25)H(0)(0.5)T(2.5))/h(r)(1.75), proposed by Gourlay [Gourlayl M.R., 1994. Wave transformation on a coral reef. Coastal Eng. 23, 17-42]. The applicability of the developed model has been demonstrated for reefs of various shapes subjected to various incident wave conditions. Assuming proposed relationships of the coefficient alpha and F-c0, the model provides results on wave height attenuation and set-up elevation which compare well with experimental data. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Comparison and validation of physical wave parameterizations in spectral wave models

Recent developments in the physical parameterizations available in spectral wave models have already been validated, but there is little information on their relative performance especially with focus on the higher order spectral moments and wave partitions. This study concentrates on documenting their strengths and limitations using satellite measurements, buoy spectra, and a comparison between the different models. It is confirmed that all models perform well in terms of significant wave heights; however higher-order moments have larger errors. The partition wave quantities perform well in terms of direction and frequency but the magnitude and directional spread typically have larger discrepancies. The high-frequency tail is examined through the mean square slope using satellites and buoys. From this analysis it is clear that some models behave better than the others, suggesting their parameterizations match the physical processes reasonably well. However none of the models are entirely satisfactory, pointing to poorly constrained parameterizations or missing physical processes. The major space-time differences between the models are related to the swell field stressing the importance of describing its evolution. An example swell field confirms the wave heights can be notably different between model configurations while the directional distributions remain similar. It is clear that all models have difficulty in describing the directional spread. Therefore, knowledge of the source term directional distributions is paramount in improving the wave model physics in the future.