DEVELOPMENT OF THE WAVE CONTOURING RAFT.

The wave contouring raft system is the outcome of ideas initiated and developed by Sir Christopher Cockerell from 1972 onwards. His objective was to develop a wave energy device which is within the bounds of current technology. It should consist of simple, relatively small units, amenable to quantity production, which would enable a power generating system to be built up and commissioned in stages according to needs and production capability. This thinking led to the investigation of chains of pontoons, hinged together so that the passage of a wave down the chain causes the pontoons to oscillate relative to one another. Energy is extracted from the sea by applying a torque about the hinges to damp the motion. The work has involved extensive model testing in wave tanks and the building and testing of a 3-unit 1/10 scale power generating installation in the Solent, as well as design studies for a full size installation for Atlantic conditions.

Efficient Simulation of Freak Waves in Random Oceanic Sea States

Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum. The evolution of initial random wave trains is numerically carried out within the framework of the modified four-order nonlinear Schroedinger equation (mNLSE), and some involved influence factors are also discussed. Results show that if the sideband instability is satisfied, a random wave train may evolve into a freak wave train, and simultaneously the setting of the Phillips parameter and enhancement coefficient of JONSWAP spectrum and initial random phases is very important for the formation of freak waves. The way to increase the generation efficiency of freak waves though changing the involved parameters is also presented.

PHYSICAL MODEL FOR SMALL SCALE SANDWAVES MIGRATION IN NORTH GULF OF SOUTH CHINA SEA

The aim of this paper is to investigate the mechanism of small scale sand-wave migration. According to the environmental characteristic of the north gulf of South China Sea, a quasi-3D mechanics model has been built for simulating the small scale sand wave migration. The calculation results are shown to be consistent with the observed data in the trough of sand ridge. Considering the effect of environmental actions and sand wave features, we develop an effective formula to predict sand-wave migration. It is indicated that the physical models should be used to predict the migration of the small scale sand-wave, which is rarely dominated by wave activity.

Diagnostic experiments for transport mechanisms of suspended sediment discharged from the Yellow River in the Bohai Sea

Five diagnostic experiments with a 3D baroclinic hydrodynamic and sediment transport model ECOMSED in couple with the third generation wave model SWAN and the Grant-Madsen bottom boundary layer model driven by the monthly sediment load of the Yellow River, were conducted to separately diagnose effects of different hydrodynamic factors on transport of suspended sediment discharged from the Yellow River in the Bohai Sea. Both transport and spatio-temporal distribution of suspended sediment concentration in the Bohai Sea were numerially simulated. It could be concluded that suspended sediment discharged from the Yellow River cannot be delivered in long distance under the condition of tidal current. Almost all of sediments from the Yellow River are deposited outside the delta under the condition of wind-driven current, and only very small of them are transported faraway. On the basis of wind forcing, sediments from the Yellow River are mainly transported north-northwestward, and others which are first delivered to the Laizhou Bay are continuously moved northward. An obvious 3D structure characteristic of sediment transport is produced in the wind-driven and tide-induced residual circulation condition. Transport patterns at all layers are generally consistent with circulation structure, but there is apparent deviation between the depth-averaged sediment flux and the circulation structure. The phase of temporal variation of sediment concentration is consistent with that of the bottom shear stress, both of which are proved to have a ten-day cycle in wave and current condition.

Geophysical signatures associated with fluid flow and gas hydrate occurrence in a tectonically quiescent sequence, Qiongdongnan Basin, South China Sea

Interpretation of high-resolution two-dimensional (2D) and three-dimensional (3D) seismic data collected in the Qiongdongnan Basin, South China Sea reveals the presence of polygonal faults, pockmarks, gas chimneys and slope failure in strata of Pliocene and younger age. The gas chimneys are characterized by low-amplitude reflections, acoustic turbidity and low P-wave velocity indicating fluid expulsion pathways. Coherence time slices show that the polygonal faults are restricted to sediments with moderate-amplitude, continuous reflections. Gas hydrates are identified in seismic data by the presence of bottom simulating reflectors (BSRs), which have high amplitude, reverse polarity and are subparallel to seafloor. Mud diapirism and mounded structures have variable geometry and a great diversity regarding the origin of the fluid and the parent beds. The gas chimneys, mud diapirism, polygonal faults and a seismic facies-change facilitate the upward migration of thermogenic fluids from underlying sediments. Fluids can be temporarily trapped below the gas hydrate stability zone, but fluid advection may cause gas hydrate dissociation and affect the thickness of gas hydrate zone. The fluid accumulation leads to the generation of excess pore fluids that release along faults, forming pockmarks and mud volcanoes on the seafloor. These features are indicators of fluid flow in a tectonically-quiescent sequence, Qiongdongnan Basin. Geofluids (2010) 10, 351-368.

Analysis on deep crustal structure along the onshore-offshore seismic profile across the Binhai (littoral) fault zone in northeastern South China Sea

The onshore-offshore deep seismic experiment was carried out for the first time and filled the blankness of the seismic surveys in the transition area between South China and northeastern South China Sea. The seismic data were analyzed and processed. The different seismic phases were identified and their travel time arrivals were modeled by ray-tracing to study the P-wave velocity crustal structure of this area. The crustal structure of this area is the continental crust. The crust thickness is gradually decreasing southward along the on-shore-offshore seismic line. The low-velocity layer (5.5 similar to 5.9 km (.) s(-1)) exists generally in the middle crust (about 10.0 similar to 18.0km)with about 2.5 similar to 4.0 km thickness, which is also thinning seaward. No obvious high-velocity layer appears in the lower crust. The Binhai (littoral) fault zone is a low velocity zone, which is located about 35km southeast to the Nan'ao station and corresponding to the gradient belt of gravity & magnetism anomalies. The depth of the fault zone is close to the Moho discontinuity. The littoral fault zone is a boundary between the normal continental crust of South China and the thinned continental crust of the sea area.

Effect of low-frequency Rossby wave on thermal structure of the upper southwestern tropical Indian Ocean

We investigate the influence of low-frequency Rossby waves on the thermal structure of the upper southwestern tropical Indian Ocean (SWTIO) using Argo profiles, satellite altimetric data, sea surface temperature, wind field data and the theory of linear vertical normal mode decomposition. Our results show that the SWTIO is generally dominated by the first baroclinic mode motion. As strong downwelling Rossby waves reach the SWTIO, the contribution of the second baroclinic mode motion in this region can be increased mainly because of the reduction in the vertical stratification of the upper layer above thermocline, and the enhancement in the vertical stratification of the lower layer under thermocline also contributes to it. The vertical displacement of each isothermal is enlarged and the thermal structure of the upper level is modulated, which is indicative of strong vertical mixing. However, the cold Rossby waves increase the vertical stratification of the upper level, restricting the variability related to the second baroclinic mode. On the other hand, during decaying phase of warm Rossby waves, Ekman upwelling and advection processes associated with the surface cyclonic wind circulation can restrain the downwelling processes, carrying the relatively colder water to the near-surface, which results in an out-of-phase phenomenon between sea surface temperature anomaly (SSTA) and sea surface height anomaly (SSHA) in the SWTIO.

Wave generation by the falling rock in the two-dimensional wave tank

Wave generation by the falling rock in the two-dimensional wave tank is experimentally and numerically studied, where the numerical model utilizes the boundary element method to solve the fully nonlinear potential flow theory. The wave profiles at different times are measured in the laboratory, which are also used to test the numerical model. Comparisons show that the experimental and numerical results are in good agreement, and the numerical model can be used to simulate the wave generation due to the submarine rock falling. Further numerical tests on the influences of the rock size, density, initial position and the falling angle on the wave elevation of the generated waves are performed, respectively. The results show that the size and density of the rock have strong effects on the maximum elevation of the generated wave, while the effects of the initial position and the falling angle of the rock are also significant. When the size or the density of the rock increases, the maximum elevation of the generated wave increases. The same effect on the generated wave would be produced if the initial position of the rock becomes closer to the surface, or the falling angle between the falling route and the vertical direction turns larger. In addition, the present numerical tests reveal that the submarine rock falling provides a new generation method for the breaking wave in the wave tank.

Modeling vertical heat transport in the wave affected surface layer of the ocean

In considering the vertical heat transport problems in the upper ocean, the flat upper boundary approximation for the free surface and the horizontal homogenous hypothesis are usually applied. However, due to the existence of the wave motion, the application of this approximation may result in some errors to the solar irradiation since it decays quickly in respect to the actual thickness of the water layer below the surface; on the other hand, due to the fluctuation of the water layer depth, it is improper to neglect the effects of the horizontal advection and turbulent diffusion since they also contribute to the vertical heat transport. A new model is constructed in this study to reflect these effects. The corresponding numerical simulations show that the wave motion may remarkably accelerate the vertical heat transferring process and the variation of the temperature in the wave affected layer appears in an oscillating manner.

Simulating a typhoon storm surge in the East Sea of China using a coupled model

A coupled numerical model with a 2' x 2' resolution grid has been developed and used to simulate five typical typhoon storm surges (5612, 7413, 7910, 8114, and 9711) in the East Sea of China. Three main driving forces have been considered in this coupled model: wave radiation stress, combined wave-current bottom shear stress and wave-state-dependent surface wind stress. This model has then been compared with in situ measurements of the storm set-up. The effect of different driving force components on the total storm surge has also been investigated. This study has found that the coupled model with high resolution is capable of simulating the five typical typhoons better than the uncoupled models, and that the wave-dependent surface wind stress plays an important role in typhoon storm surge-wave coupling in this area and can increase the storm set-up by 1 m. The study of the five typhoon cases has shown that the general coupling effects could increase storm set-up by 20-32%. Thus, it is suggested that to predict typhoon storm surges in the East Sea of China, a storm surge-wave coupled model be adopted. (C) 2008 National Natural Science Foundation of China and Chinese Academy of Sciences. Published by Elsevier Limited and Science in China Press. All rights reserved.

Simulation of the ocean surface mixed layer under the wave breaking

A one-dimensional mixed-layer model, including a Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure scheme, was implemented to investigate the dynamical and thermal structures of the ocean surface mixed layer in the northern South China Sea. The turbulent kinetic energy released through wave breaking was incorporated into the model as a source of energy at the ocean surface, and the influence of the breaking waves on the mixed layer was studied. The numerical simulations show that the simulated SST is overestimated in summer without the breaking waves. However, the cooler SST is simulated when the effect of the breaking waves is considered, the corresponding discrepancy with the observed data decreases up to 20% and the MLD calculated averagely deepens 3.8 m. Owing to the wave-enhanced turbulence mixing in the summertime, the stratification at the bottom of the mixed layer was modified and the temperature gradient spread throughout the whole thermocline compared with the concentrated distribution without wave breaking.

Improvement of different source function expressions in SWAN model for the Bohai Sea

The simulating wave nearshore (SWAN) wave model has been widely used in coastal areas, lakes and estuaries. However, we found a poor agreement between modeling results and measurements in analyzing the chosen four typical cases when we used the default parameters of the source function formulas of the SWAN to make wave simulation for the Bohai Sea. Also, it was found that at the same wind process the simulated results of two wind generation expressions (Komen, Janssen) demonstrated a large difference. Further study showed that the proportionality coefficient alpha in linear growth term of wave growth source function plays an unperceived role in the process of wave development. Based on experiments and analysis, we thought that the coefficient alpha should change rather than be a constant. Therefore, the coefficient alpha changing with the variation of friction velocity U (*) was introduced into the linear growth term of wave growth source function. Four weather processes were adopted to validate the improvement in the linear growth term. The results from the improved coefficient alpha agree much better with the measurements than those from the default constant coefficient alpha. Furthermore, the large differences of results between Komen wind generation expression and Janssen wind generation expression were eliminated. We also experimented with the four weather processes to test the new white-capping mechanisms based on the cumulative steepness method. It was found that the parameters of the new white-capping mechanisms are not suitable for the Bohai Sea, but Alkyon's white-capping mechanisms can be applicable to the Bohai Sea after amendments, demonstrating that this improvement of parameter alpha can improve the simulated results of the Bohai Sea.

Joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the joint distribution depends on five parameters. These five parameters can all be determined by the water depth, the relative position of two points and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, for fully developed wind-generated sea, the parameters that appeared in the joint distribution are calculated for various wind speeds, water depths and relative positions of two points by using the Donelan and Pierson spectrum and the nonlinear effects of sea waves on the joint distribution are studied. (C) 2003 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Outer wave number spectrum and statistical distribution of apparent wave number vector

Based on the ray theory and Longuet-Higgins's linear,model of sea waves, the joint distribution of wave envelope and apparent wave number vector is established. From the joint distribution, we define a new concept, namely the outer wave number spectrum, to describe the outer characteristics of ocean waves. The analytical form of the outer wave number spectrum, the probability distributions of the apparent wave number vector and its components are then derived. The outer wave number spectrum is compared with the inner wave number spectrum for the average status of wind-wave development corresponding to a peakness factor P = 3. Discussions on the similarity and difference between the outer wave number spectrum and inner one are also presented in the paper. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Mean sea surface heights of the South and East China Seas from ocean circulation model and geodetic leveling

The mean sea surface heights (sea surface topography) of the South China, East China, Yellow and Bohai Seas are derived from an ocean general circulation model and surface air pressure. The circulation model covers the global oceans, with fine grid (1/6degrees) covering the East Asian marginal seas and coarse grid (31) covering the rest part of the global oceans. The result shows that the China 1985 National Altitude Datum is 24.7 cm above the me-an sea surface height of the world oceans. The mean sea surface in the coastal ocean adjacent to China is higher in the south than in the north. Intercomparison of the model results with the geodetic leveling measurements at 28 coastal tidal stations shows a standard deviation of 4.8 cm and a fitting coefficient of 95.3%. After correction through linear regression, the standard deviation is reduced to 4.5 cm. This indicates that the accuracy of model results is sufficient for practical application. Based on the model results, the mean sea surface heights for the study area with a resolution of 1/6 degree are given. This result also links the mean sea levels at islands with those on the mainland coast and gives the mean sea surface heights at tidal stations in the Taiwan Island, the Dongsha Islands, the Yisha Islands and the Nansha Islands relative to the China 1985 National Altitude Datum.