Biotransformation/separation routes to obtain pure enantiomers

The objective of the work presented in this thesis was the development of an innovative approach for the separation of enantiomers of secondary alcohols, combining the use of an ionic liquid (IL) - both as solvent for conducting enzymatic kinetic resolution and as acylating agent - with the use of carbon dioxide (CO2) as solvent for extraction. Menthol was selected for testing this reaction/separation approach due to the increasing demand for this substance, which is widely used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetics and food industries. With a view to using an ionic ester as acylating agent, whose conversion led to the release of ethanol, and due to the need to remove this alcohol so as to drive reaction equilibrium forward, a phase equilibrium study was conducted for the ehtanol/(±)-menthol/CO2 system, at pressures between 8 and 10 MPa and temperatures between 40 and 50 oC. It was found that CO2 is more selective towards ethanol, especially at the lowest pressure and highest temperature tested, leading to separation factors in the range 1.6-7.6. The pressure-temperature-composition data obtained were correlated with the Peng-Robinson equation of state and the Mathias-Klotz-Prausnitz mixing rule. The model fit the experimental results well, with an average absolute deviation (AAD) of 3.7 %. The resolution of racemic menthol was studied using two lipases, namely lipase from Candida rugosa (CRL) and immobilized lipase B from Candida antarctica (CALB), and two ionic acylating esters. No reaction was detected in either case. (R,S)-1-phenylethanol was used next, and it was found that with CRL low, nonselective, conversion of the alcohol took place, whereas CALB led to an enantiomeric excess (ee) of the substrate of 95%, at 30% conversion. Other acylating agents were tested for the resolution of (±)-menthol, namely vinyl esters and acid anhydrides, using several lipases and varying other parameters that affect conversion and enantioselectivity, such as substrate concentration, solvent and temperature. One such acylating agent was propionic anhydride. It was thus performed a phase equilibrium study on the propionic anhydride/CO2 system, at temperatures between 35 and 50 oC. This study revealed that, at 35 oC and pressures from 7 MPa, the system is monophasic for all compositions. The enzymatic catalysis studies carried out with propionic anhydride revealed that the extent of noncatalyzed reaction was high, with a negative effect on enantioselectivity. These studies showed also that it was possible to reduce considerably the impact of the noncatalyzed reaction relative to the reaction catalyzed by CRL by lowering temperature to 4 oC. Vinyl decanoate was shown to lead to the best results at conditions amenable to a process combining the use of supercritical CO2 as agent for post-reaction separation. The use of vinyl decanoate in a number of IL solvents, namely [bmim][PF6], [bmim][BF4], [hmim][PF6], [omim][PF6], and [bmim][Tf2N], led to an enantiomeric excess of product (eep) values of over 96%, at about 50% conversion, using CRL. In n-hexane and supercritical CO2, reaction progressed more slowly.(...)

The consumption of beauty products on famale young adults in Portugal. Recommenrations for the brand Lancôme to improve its store trafic

This project aims to explore the Portuguese Beauty and Cosmetics market, and to discuss the usage and purchase behaviour of young female adults, between 18 and 26 years old. After a market analysis based on secondary data, it evaluates the results of qualitative and quantitative research based on 9 interviews and 126 online questionnaires to explore the consumers’ reasoning when choosing products from this category – fragrances, skin care or make-up – as well as their attitude towards brands, with a special focus on the premium cosmetics brand Lancôme. Contrary to our expectations there was no statistically significant positive influence of the online touchpoints within this age segment’s purchase intention. However, results indicate that Lancôme is already being perceived by some as young and modern, but is still suffering the threat of Mass Market brands that are valued by this target, mainly due to a price sensitivity towards premium beauty brands.

Estudo do mercado cosmético chinês

Relatório de estágio de mestrado em Estudos Interculturais Português / Chinês: Tradução, Formação e Comunicação Empresarial

Enzymatic processing of protein-based fibers

Wool and silk are major protein fiber materials used by the textile industry. Fiber protein structure-function relationships are briefly described here, and the major enzymatic processing routes for textiles and other novel applications are deeply reviewed. Fiber biomodification is described here with various classes of enzymes such as protease, transglutaminase, tyrosinase, and laccase. It is expected that the reader will get a perspective on the research done as a basis for new applications in other areas such as cosmetics and pharma.

Ergosterol as a rapid measurement of Ganoderma rot of oil palm

Palm oil (PO) is a very important commodity for many countries and especially Indonesia and Malaysia who are the predominant producers. PO is used in ca. 30% of supermarket foods, cosmetics, cooking and as biodiesel. The growth of oil palms in plantations is controversial as the production methods contribute to climate change and cause environmental damage [1]. The plant is subjected to a devastating disease in these two countries caused by the white rot fungus Ganoderma. There are no satisfactory methods to diagnose the disease in the plant as they are too slow and/or inaccurate. The lipid compound ergosterol is unique to fungi and is used to measure growth especially in solid substrates. We report here on the use of ergosterol to measure the growth of Ganoderma in oil palms using HPLC and TLC methods [2]. The method is rapid and correlates well with other methods and is capable of being used on-site, hence improving the speed of analysis and allowing remedial action. Climate change will affect the health of OP [1] and rapid detection methods will be increasingly required to control the disease. [1] Paterson, RRM, Kumar, L, Taylor, S, Lima N. Future climate effects on suitability for growth of oil palms in Malaysia and Indonesia. Scientific Reports, 5, 2015, 14457. [2] Muniroh, MS, Sariah M, Zainal Abidin, MA, Lima, N, Paterson, RRM. Rapid detection of Ganoderma-infected oil palms by microwave ergosterol extraction with HPLC and TLC. Journal of Microbiological Methods, 100, 2014, 143–147.

Cosméticos no Youtube: marcas vs youtubers: em estudo exploratório

Dissertação de mestrado em Design de Comunicação de Moda

Zebrafish embryos as in vivo model for toxicity evaluation: screening of nanoparticle formulations DODAB:MO and DODAC:MO

Dissertação de mestrado em Molecular Genetics

The pollutant diethylhexyl phthalate regulates hepatic energy metabolism via species-specific PPARalpha-dependent mechanisms.

Background: The modulation of energetic homeostasis by pollutants has recently emerged as a potential contributor to the onset of metabolic disorders. Diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) is a widely used industrial plasticizer to which humans are widely exposed. Phthalates can activate the three peroxisome proliferatoractivated receptor (PPAR) isotypes on cellular models and induce peroxisome proliferation in rodents.Objectives: In this study, we aimed to evaluate the systemic and metabolic consequences of DEHP exposure that have remained so far unexplored and to characterize the underlying molecular mechanisms of action.Methods: As a proof of concept and mechanism, genetically engineered mouse models of PPARs were exposed to high doses of DEHP, followed by metabolic and molecular analyses.Results: DEHP-treated mice were protected from diet-induced obesity via PPARalpha-dependent activation of hepatic fatty acid catabolism, whereas the activity of neither PPARbeta nor PPARgamma was affected. However, the lean phenotype observed in response to DEHP in wild-type mice was surprisingly abolished in PPARalpha-humanized mice. These species differences are associated with a different pattern of coregulator recruitment.Conclusion: These results demonstrate that DEHP exerts species-specific metabolic actions that rely to a large extent on PPARalpha signaling and highlight the metabolic importance of the species-specific activation of PPARalpha by xenobiotic compounds. Editor's SummaryDiethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) is an industrial plasticizer used in cosmetics, medical devices, food packaging, and other applications. Evidence that DEHP metabolites can activate peroxisome proliferatoractivated receptors (PPARs) involved in fatty acid oxidation (PPARalpha and PPARbeta) and adiposite function and insulin resistance (PPARgamma) has raised concerns about potential effects of DEHP on metabolic homeostasis. In rodents, PPARalpha activation also induces hepatic peroxisome proliferation, but this response to PPARalpha activation is not observed in humans. Feige et al. (p. 234) evaluated systemic and metabolic consequences of high-dose oral DEHP in combination with a high-fat diet in wild-type mice and genetically engineered mouse PPAR models. The authors report that mice exposed to DEHP gained less weight than controls, without modifying their feeding behavior; they also exhibited lower triglyceride levels, smaller adipocytes, and improved glucose tolerance compared with controls. These effects, which were observed in mice fed both high-fat and standard diets, appeared to be mediated by PPARalpha-dependent activation of hepatic fatty acid catabolism without apparent involvement of PPARbeta or PPARgamma. However, mouse models that expressed human (versus mouse) PPARalpha tended to gain more weight on a high-fat diet than their DHEP-unexposed counterparts. The authors conclude that findings support species-specific metabolic effects of DEHP mediated by PPARalpha activation.

Cellular Derivatives and Efficacy in Wound and Scar Management

Biologicals have been used for decades in biopharmaceutical topical preparations. Because cellular therapies are rou-tinely used in the clinic they have gained significant attention. Different derivatives are possible from different cell and tissue sources, making the selection of cell types and establishment of consistent cell banks crucial steps in the initial whole-cell bioprocessing. Various cell and tissue types have been used in treatment of skin wounds including autolo-gous and allogenic skin cells, platelets, placenta and amniotic extracts from either human or animal sources. Experience with progenitor cells show that they may provide an interesting cell choice due to facility of out-scaling and known properties for wound healing without scar. Using defined animal cell lines to develop cell-free derivatives may provide initial starting material for pharmaceutical formulations that help in overall stability. Cell lines derived from ovine tis-sue (skin, muscle, connective tissue) can be developed in short periods of time and consistency of these cell lines was monitored by cellular life-span, protein concentrations, stability and activity. Each cell line had long culture periods up to 37 - 41 passages and protein measures for each cell line at passages 2 - 15 had only 1.4-fold maximal difference. Growth stimulation activity towards two target skin cell lines (GM01717 and CRL-1221; 40 year old human males) at concentrations ranging up to 6 μg/ml showed 2-3-fold (single extracts) and 3-7-fold (co-cultured extracts) increase. Proteins from co-culture remained stable up to 1 year in pharmaceutical preparations shown by separation on SDS- PAGE gels. Pharmaceutical cell-free preparations were used for veterinary and human wounds and burns. Cell lines and cell-free extracts can show remarkable consistency and stability for preparation of biopharmaceutical creams, moreover when cells are co-cultured, and have positive effects for tissue repair.

Positive EtG findings in hair as a result of a cosmetic treatment.

In a case of a driving ability assessment, hair analysis for ethyl glucuronide (EtG) was requested by the authorities. The person concerned denied alcohol consumption and did not present any clinical sign of alcoholism. However, EtG was found in concentrations of up to 910pg/mg in hair from different sampling dates suggesting an excessive drinking behavior. The person declared to use a hair lotion on a regularly base. To evaluate a possible effect of the hair lotion, prospective blood and urine controls as well as hair sampling of scalp and pubic hair were performed. The traditional clinical biomarkers of ethanol consumption, CDT and GGT, were inconspicuous in three blood samples taken. EtG was not detected in all collected urine samples. The hair lotion was transmitted to our laboratory. The ethanol concentration in this lotion was determined with 35g/L. The EtG immunoassay gave a positive result indicating EtG, which could be confirmed by GC-MS/MS-NCI. In a follow-up experiment the lotion was applied to the hair of a volunteer over a period of six weeks. After this treatment, EtG could be measured in the hair at a concentration of 72pg/mg suggesting chronic and excessive alcohol consumption. Overnight incubation of EtG free hair in the lotion yielded an EtG concentration of 140pg/mg. In the present case, the positive EtG hair findings could be interpreted as the result of an EtG containing hair care product. To our knowledge, the existence of such a product has not yet been reported, and it is exceptionally unusual to find EtG in cosmetics. Therefore, external sources for hair contamination should always be taken into account when unusual cosmetic treatment is mentioned. In those cases, it is recommended to analyze the hair product for a possible contamination with EtG. The analysis of body hair can help to reveal problems occurring from cosmetic treatment of head hair. As a consequence, the assessment of drinking behavior should be based on more than one diagnostic parameter.

Experimental support for the make-up hypothesis in nestling tawny owls (Strix aluco)

Body condition can affect coloration of traits used in sexual selection and parent-offspring communication by inducing rapid internal changes in pigment concentration or aggregation, thickness of collagen arrays, or blood flux. The recent "makeup hypothesis" proposes an alternative honesty-reinforcing mechanism, with behaviorally mediated deposition of substances on body surfaces ("cosmetics") generating covariation between body condition and coloration. In birds, the uropygial gland wax is actively spread on feathers using the bill and changes in its deposition rate may cause rapid changes in bill and plumage coloration. Using tawny owl nestlings, we tested 3 predictions of the makeup hypothesis, namely that 1) quantity of preen wax deposited accounts for variation in bill coloration, 2) an immune stimulation (induced by injection of a lipopolysaccharide [LPS]) impairs uropygial gland wax production, and 3) different intensities of immune stimulations (strong vs. weak stimulations induced by injections of either LPS or phytohemagglutinin [PHA], respectively) and high versus low food availabilities result in different bill colorations. We found that 1) preen wax reduced bill brightness, 2) a challenge with LPS impaired uropygial gland development, and 3) nestlings challenged with LPS had a brighter bill than PHA-injected nestlings, whereas diet manipulation had no significant effect. Altogether, these results suggest that a strong immune challenge may decrease preen wax deposition rate on the bill of nestling birds, at least by impairing gland wax production, which causes a change in bill coloration. Our study therefore highlights that cosmetic colors might signal short-term variation in immunological status.

Chirurgie viscérale. Chirurgie thyroïdienne et parathyroïdienne: place de la chirurgie minimale invasive [Update in thyroid and parathyroid surgery: the role for minimally invasive surgery].

Thyroid and parathyroid surgery takes an important place in general surgery. Preservation of essential cervical structures and cosmetic of outcomes of cervical incisions are major concern. Several minimally invasive strategies have been developed recently but their acceptance in the surgical community is low. Their main advantages are focused tissue dissection and improved cosmetics. In this review, management and surgical indications of thyroid nodules and parathyroid adenomas are discussed. The various minimally invasive techniques are described and their current indications are reviewed.

Nanotechnology: balancing benefits and risks to public health and the environment : expert paper

Nanotechnology has been heralded as a "revolution" in science, for two reasons: first, because of its revolutionary view of the way in which chemicals and elements, such as gold and silver, behave, compared to traditional scientific understanding of their properties. Second, the impact of these new discoveries, as applied to commerce, can transform the daily life of consumer products ranging from sun tan lotions and cosmetics, food packaging and paints and coatings for cars, housing and fabrics, medicine and thousands of industrial processes.9 Beneficial consumer use of nanotechnologies, already in the stream of commerce, improves coatings on inks and paints in everything from food packaging to cars. Additionally, "Nanomedicine" offers the promise of diagnosis and treatment at the molecular level in order to detect and treat presymptomatic disease,10 or to rebuild neurons in Alzheimer's and Parkinson's disease. There is a possibility that severe complications such as stroke or heart attack may be avoided by means of prophylactic treatment of people at risk, and bone regeneration may keep many people active who never expected rehabilitation. Miniaturisation of diagnostic equipment can also reduce the amount of sampling materials required for testing and medical surveillance. Miraculous developments, that sound like science fiction to those people who eagerly anticipate these medical products, combined with the emerging commercial impact of nanotechnology applications to consumer products will reshape civil society - permanently. Thus, everyone within the jurisdiction of the Council of Europe is an end-user of nanotechnology, even without realising that nanotechnology has touched daily life.

Use of nanoparticles in Swiss industry: a targeted survey

A large number of applications using manufactured nanoparticles of less than 100 nm are currently being introduced into industrial processes. There is an urgent need to evaluate the risks of these novel particles to ensure their safe production, handling, use, and disposal. However, today we lack even rudimentary knowledge about type and quantity of industrially used manufactured nanoparticles and the level of exposure in Swiss industry. The goal of this study was to evaluate the use of nanoparticles, the currently implemented safety measures, and the number of potentially exposed workers in all types of industry. To evaluate this, a targeted telephone survey was conducted among health and safety representatives from 197 Swiss companies. The survey showed that nanoparticles are already used in many industrial sectors; not only in companies in the new field of nanotechnology, but also in more traditional sectors, such as paints. Forty-three companies declared to use or produce nanoparticles, and 11 imported and traded with prepackaged goods that contain nanoparticles. The following nanoparticles were found to be used in considerable quantities (> 1000 kg/year per company): Ag, Al-Ox, Fe-Ox, SiO2, TiO2, and ZnO. The median reported quantity of handled nanoparticles was 100 kg/year. The production of cosmetics, food, paints, powders, and the treatment of surfaces used the largest quantities of these nanoparticles. Generally, the safety measures were found to be higher in powder-based than in liquid-based applications. However, the respondents had many open questions about best practices, which points to the need for rapid development of guidelines and protection strategies