Effect of ascent protocol on acute mountain sickness and success at Muztagh Ata, 7546 m

Bloch, Konrad E., Alexander J. Turk, Marco Maggiorini, Thomas Hess, Tobias Merz, Martina M. Bosch, Daniel Barthelmes, Urs Hefti, Jacqueline Pichler, Oliver Senn, and Otto D. Schoch. Effect of ascent protocol on acute mountain sickness and success at Muztagh Ata, 7546 m. High Alt. Med. Biol. 10:25-32, 2009.-Data on acclimatization during expedition-style climbing to > 5000 m are scant. We evaluated the hypothesis that minor differences in ascent protocol influence acute mountain sickness (AMS) symptoms and mountaineering success in climbers to Muztagh Ata (7546 m), Western China. We performed a randomized, controlled trial during a high altitude medical research expedition to Muztagh Ata. Thirty-four healthy mountaineers (mean age 45 yr, 7 women) were randomized to follow one of two protocols, ascending within 15 or 19 days to the summit of Muztagh Ata at 7546 m, respectively. The main outcome measures, AMS symptom scores and the number of proceeding climbers, were assessed daily. Mean +/- SD AMS-C scores of 16 climbers randomized to slow ascent were 0.06 +/- 0.18, 0.26 +/- 0.08, 0.41 +/- 0.45, 0.53 +/- 0.77 at camps I (5533 m), II (6265 m), III (6865 m), and the summit (7546 m), respectively. Corresponding values in 18 climbers randomized to fast ascent were significantly higher: 0.17 +/- 0.23, 0.43 +/- 0.75, 0.49 +/- 0.36, and 0.69 +/- 0.54 (p < 0.008, vs. slow ascent in regression analysis accounting for weather-related protocol deviation). Climbers randomized to slow ascent were able to ascend according to the protocol without AMS for significantly more days than climbers randomized to fast ascent (p = 0.04, Kaplan-Meier analysis). More climbers randomized to slow ascent were successful in reaching the highest camp at 6865 m without AMS (odds ratio 9.5; 95% confidence interval 1.02 to 89). In climbers ascending to very high altitudes, differences of a few days in acclimatization have a significant impact on symptom severity, the prevalence of AMS, and mountaineering success. ClinicalTrials.gov Identifier NCT00603122.

New insights into ocular blood flow at very high altitudes

Little is known about the ocular and cerebral blood flow during exposure to increasingly hypoxic conditions at high altitudes. There is evidence that an increase in cerebral blood flow resulting from altered autoregulation constitutes a risk factor for acute mountain sickness (AMS) and high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE) by leading to capillary overperfusion and vasogenic cerebral edema. The retina represents the only part of the central nervous system where capillary blood flow is visible and can be measured by noninvasive means. In this study we aimed to gain insights into retinal and choroidal autoregulatory properties during hypoxia and to correlate circulatory changes to symptoms of AMS and clinical signs of HACE. This observational study was performed within the scope of a high-altitude medical research expedition to Mount Muztagh Ata (7,546 m). Twenty seven participants underwent general and ophthalmic examinations up to a maximal height of 6,800 m. Examinations included fundus photography and measurements of retinal and choroidal blood flow, as well as measurement of arterial oxygen saturation and hematocrit. The initial increase in retinal blood velocity was followed by a decrease despite further ascent, whereas choroidal flow increase occurred later, at even higher altitudes. The sum of all adaptational mechanisms resulted in a stable oxygen delivery to the retina and the choroid. Parameters reflecting the retinal circulation and optic disc swelling correlated well with the occurrence of AMS-related symptoms. We demonstrate that sojourns at high altitudes trigger distinct behavior of retinal and choroidal blood flow. Increase in retinal but not in choroidal blood flow correlated with the occurrence of AMS-related symptoms.