The lifecycle of the fashion garment : voices of mass market designers

For the Australian fashion industry to move towards a more socially and environmentally ethical industry, change to existing processes would need to occur in all market levels. Change is particularly needed in the mass market, where larger volumes inevitably lead to greater environmental impact. Recent trends in eco fashion have waxed and waned, with only minor impact on the methodology of the mass market design process, with greenwashing and confusion of concepts being common problems. In the mass market, the product lifecycle begins in the design room and ends on the retail floor. A design process for sustainability necessarily expands this lifecycle, assessing the impact of every stage in the life of a fashion garment from the fibre and textiles through to consumer use, to eventual disposal and beyond disposal to fibre recycling and reuse or resale. However, how easy is it for designers to consider a wider view of the product lifecycle in their design process? How much autonomy do they have over their design process, and where do they believe their responsibility begins and ends for the garments they design? This paper will present some preliminary findings from interviews with designers in the Australian women’s wear mass market, revealing their concerns and views on the challenges of a sustainability for their industry.

Comparing: knowledge-based urban development of Vancouver, Melbourne, Manchester and Boston

The research reported in this paper introduces a knowledge-based urban development assessment framework, which is constructed in order to evaluate and assist in the (re)formulation of local and regional policy frameworks and applications necessary in knowledge city transformations. The paper also reports the findings of an application of this framework in a comparative study of Boston, Vancouver, Melbourne and Manchester. The paper with its assessment framework: demonstrates an innovative way of examining the knowledge-based development capacity of cities by scrutinising their economic, socio-cultural, enviro-urban and institutional development mechanisms and capabilities; presents some of the generic indicators used to evaluate knowledge-based development performance of cities; reveals how a city can benchmark its development level against that of other cities, and; provides insights for achieving a more sustainable and knowledge-based development.

The applicability of aesthetic knowledge in organizational decision making processes

We argue that aesthetic knowledge, which is a form of tacit knowledge of beauty and related concepts, is an important, yet under-researched, topic in the study of organizational decision making processes. The significance of aesthetic knowledge for decision making processes is derived from its universal application by humans to commonplace practices; its use as the basis of decision criteria in complex situations to which the effective application of logic and reason is difficult; and its role both in assisting cognition in general and in enabling the choice of solutions generated from rational decision making processes. Despite its importance, the empirical research examining the application of aesthetic knowledge in organizational decision making processes is limited. Further detailed study of aesthetic knowledge in the context of organizational decision making processes is required to extend the recent movement in the field aimed at examining the role that extrarational, human-centered factors play in organizational decisions.

Stakeholders' perceptions of data utility in the context of ERP outcomes

A substantial body of literature exists identifying factors contributing to under-performing Enterprise Resource Planning systems (ERPs), including poor communication, lack of executive support and user dissatisfaction (Calisir et al., 2009). Of particular interest is Momoh et al.’s (2010) recent review identifying poor data quality (DQ) as one of nine critical factors associated with ERP failure. DQ is central to ERP operating processes, ERP facilitated decision-making and inter-organizational cooperation (Batini et al., 2009). Crucial in ERP contexts is that the integrated, automated, process driven nature of ERP data flows can amplify DQ issues, compounding minor errors as they flow through the system (Haug et al., 2009; Xu et al., 2002). However, the growing appreciation of the importance of DQ in determining ERP success lacks research addressing the relationship between stakeholders’ requirements and perceptions of ERP DQ, perceived data utility and the impact of users’ treatment of data on ERP outcomes.

Paranoid prizing : the facts and fictions of Australia’s Eve Pownall Award for Information Books, 2001-2010

Ghassan Hage asserts the “core element of Australia’s colonial paranoia is a fear of loss of Europeanness or Whiteness and the lifestyle and privileges that are seen to emanate directly from them. This is a combination of the fragility of White European colonial identity in general and the specificity of the Australian situation” (419). This ‘White paranoia’ can be traced through a range of popular cultural formations, including contemporary Australian children’s literature. The Children’s Book Council of Australia (CBCA) awards an annual prize for “outstanding books which have the prime intention of documenting factual material with consideration given to imaginative presentation, interpretation and variation of style” (“Awards”) published in the preceding year. Although not often included in critical debates, non-fictional texts overtly seek to shape young readers’ understandings of their national context and their own location as national subjects. Thus, the books named as winners and honours of this prize from 2001-2010 provide a snapshot of which facts and whose fictions are salient in shaping the Australian nation in the twenty-first century. Using Hage’s concept of Australian colonial paranoia, this paper considers the relationship between ‘factual material’ and ‘imaginative presentation’ in the ongoing revision and renewal of national myths in award-winning Australian non-fiction for children.

Analysis of organic aerosols collected on filters by Aerosol Mass Spectrometry for source identification

Aerosol mass spectrometers (AMS) are powerful tools in the analysis of the chemical composition of airborne particles, particularly organic aerosols which are gaining increasing attention. However, the advantages of AMS in providing on-line data can be outweighed by the difficulties involved in its use in field measurements at multiple sites. In contrast to the on-line measurement by AMS, a method which involves sample collection on filters followed by subsequent analysis by AMS could significantly broaden the scope of AMS application. We report the application of such an approach to field studies at multiple sites. An AMS was deployed at 5 urban schools to determine the sources of the organic aerosols at the schools directly. PM1 aerosols were also collected on filters at these and 20 other urban schools. The filters were extracted with water and the extract run through a nebulizer to generate the aerosols, which were analysed by an AMS. The mass spectra from the samples collected on filters at the 5 schools were found to have excellent correlations with those obtained directly by AMS, with r2 ranging from 0.89 to 0.98. Filter recoveries varied between the schools from 40 -115%, possibly indicating that this method provides qualitative rather than quantitative information. The stability of the organic aerosols on Teflon filters was demonstrated by analysing samples stored for up to two years. Application of the procedure to the remaining 20 schools showed that secondary organic aerosols were the main source of aerosols at the majority of the schools. Overall, this procedure provides accurate representation of the mass spectra of ambient organic aerosols and could facilitate rapid data acquisition at multiple sites where AMS could not be deployed for logistical reasons.

Development and validation of anthropometric prediction equations for estimation of lean body mass and appendicular lean soft tissue in Indian men and women

Lean body mass (LBM) and muscle mass remains difficult to quantify in large epidemiological studies due to non-availability of inexpensive methods. We therefore developed anthropometric prediction equations to estimate the LBM and appendicular lean soft tissue (ALST) using dual energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA) as a reference method. Healthy volunteers (n= 2220; 36% females; age 18-79 y) representing a wide range of body mass index (14-44 kg/m2) participated in this study. Their LBM including ALST was assessed by DXA along with anthropometric measurements. The sample was divided into prediction (60%) and validation (40%) sets. In the prediction set, a number of prediction models were constructed using DXA measured LBM and ALST estimates as dependent variables and a combination of anthropometric indices as independent variables. These equations were cross-validated in the validation set. Simple equations using age, height and weight explained > 90% variation in the LBM and ALST in both men and women. Additional variables (hip and limb circumferences and sum of SFTs) increased the explained variation by 5-8% in the fully adjusted models predicting LBM and ALST. More complex equations using all the above anthropometric variables could predict the DXA measured LBM and ALST accurately as indicated by low standard error of the estimate (LBM: 1.47 kg and 1.63 kg for men and women, respectively) as well as good agreement by Bland Altman analyses. These equations could be a valuable tool in large epidemiological studies assessing these body compartments in Indians and other population groups with similar body composition.

Differentiation of isomeric N-glycan structures by normal-phase liquid chromatography-MALDI-TOF/TOF tandem mass spectrometry

The detailed characterization of protein N-glycosylation is very demanding given the many different glycoforms and structural isomers that can exist on glycoproteins. Here we report a fast and sensitive method for the extensive structure elucidation of reducing-end labeled N-glycan mixtures using a combination of capillary normal-phase HPLC coupled off-line to matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization time-of-flight mass spectrometry (MALDI-TOF-MS) and TOF/TOF-MS/MS. Using this method, isobaric N-glycans released from honey bee phospholipase A2 and Arabidopsis thaliana glycoproteins were separated by normal-phase chromatography and subsequently identified by key fragment ions in the MALDI-TOF/TOF tandem mass spectra. In addition, linkage and branching information were provided by abundant cross-ring and "elimination" fragment ions in the MALDI-CID spectra that gave extensive structural information. Furthermore, the fragmentation characteristics of N-glycans reductively aminated with 2-aminobenzoic acid and 2-aminobenzamide were compared. The identification of N-glycans containing 3-linked core fucose was facilitated by distinctive ions present only in the MALDI-CID spectra of 2-aminobenzoic acid-labeled oligosaccharides. To our knowledge, this is the first MS/MS-based technique that allows confident identification of N-glycans containing 3-linked core fucose, which is a major allergenic determinant on insect and plant glycoproteins.

Paint spray mass spectrometry for the detection of additives from polymers on conducting surfaces

Paint Spray is developed as a direct sampling ionisation method for mass spectrometric analysis of additives in polymer-based surface coatings. The technique simply involves applying an external high voltage (5 kV) to the wetted sample placed in front of the mass spectrometer inlet and represents a much simpler ionisation technique compared to those currently available. The capabilities of Paint Spray are demonstrated herein with the detection of four commercially available hindered amine light stabilisers; TINUVIN® 770, TINUVIN® 292, TINUVIN® 123 and TINUVIN® 152 directly from thermoset polyester-based coil coatings. Paint Spray requires no sample preparation or pre-treatment and combined with its simplicity - requiring no specialised equipment - makes it ideal for use by non-specialists. The application of Paint Spray for industrial use has significant potential as sample collection from a coil coating production line and Paint Spray ionisation could enable fast quality control screening at high sensitivity.

Characterising in situ activation and degradation of hindered amine light stabilisers using liquid extraction surface analysis-mass spectrometry

Changes in the molecular structure of polymer antioxidants such as hindered amine light stabilisers (HALS) is central to their efficacy in retarding polymer degradation and therefore requires careful monitoring during their in-service lifetime. The HALS, bis-(1-octyloxy-2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-4-piperidinyl) sebacate (TIN123) and bis-(1,2,2,6,6-pentamethyl-4-piperidinyl) sebacate (TIN292), were formulated in different polymer systems and then exposed to various curing and ageing treatments to simulate in-service use. Samples of these coatings were then analysed directly using liquid extraction surface analysis (LESA) coupled with a triple quadrupole mass spectrometer. Analysis of TIN123 formulated in a cross-linked polyester revealed that the polymer matrix protected TIN123 from undergoing extensive thermal degradation that would normally occur at 292 degrees C, specifically, changes at the 1- and 4-positions of the piperidine groups. The effect of thermal versus photo-oxidative degradation was also compared for TIN292 formulated in polyacrylate films by monitoring the in situ conversion of N-CH3 substituted piperidines to N-H. The analysis confirmed that UV light was required for the conversion of N-CH3 moieties to N-H - a major pathway in the antioxidant protection of polymers - whereas this conversion was not observed with thermal degradation. The use of tandem mass spectrometric techniques, including precursor-ion scanning, is shown to be highly sensitive and specific for detecting molecular-level changes in HALS compounds and, when coupled with LESA, able to monitor these changes in situ with speed and reproducibility. (C) 2013 Elsevier B. V. All rights reserved.

Elucidation of double bond position in unsaturated lipids by ozone electrospray ionization mass spectrometry

The position(s) of carbon-carbon double bonds within lipids can dramatically affect their structure and reactivity and thus has a direct bearing on biological function. Commonly employed mass spectrometric approaches to the characterization of complex lipids, however, fail to localize sites of unsaturation within the molecular structure and thus cannot distinguish naturally occurring regioisomers. In a recent communication \[Thomas, M. C.; Mitchell, T. W.; Blanksby, S. J. J. Am. Chem. Soc. 2006, 128, 58-59], we have presented a new technique for the elucidation of double bond position in glycerophospholipids using ozone-induced fragmentation within the source of a conventional electrospray ionization mass spectrometer. Here we report the on-line analysis, using ozone electrospray mass spectrometry (OzESI-MS), of a broad range of common unsaturated lipids including acidic and neutral glycerophospholipids, sphingomyelins, and triacylglycerols. All lipids analyzed are found to form a pair of chemically induced fragment ions diagnostic of the position of each double bond(s) regardless of the polarity, the number of charges, or the adduction (e.g., \[M - H](-), \[M - 2H](2-), \[M + H](+), \[M + Na](+), \[M + NH4](+)). The ability of OzESI-MS to distinguish lipids that differ only in the position of the double bonds is demonstrated using the glycerophosphocholine standards, GPCho(9Z-18:1/9Z-18:1) and GPCho(6Z-18:1/6Z-18:1). While these regioisomers cannot be differentiated by their conventional tandem mass spectra, the OzESI-MS spectra reveal abundant fragment ions of distinctive mass-to-charge ratio (m/z). The approach is found to be sufficiently robust to be used in conjunction with the m/z 184 precursor ion scans commonly employed for the identification of phosphocholine-containing lipids in shotgun lipidomic analyses. This tandem OzESI-MS approach was used, in conjunction with conventional tandem mass spectral analysis, for the structural characterization of an unknown sphingolipid in a crude lipid extract obtained from a human lens. The OzESI-MS data confirm the presence of two regioisomers, namely, SM(d18:0/15Z-24:1) and SM(d18:0/17Z-24:1), and suggest the possible presence of a third isomer, SM(d18:0/19Z-24:1), in lower abundance. The data presented herein demonstrate that OzESI-MS is a broadly applicable, on-line approach for structure determination and, when used in conjunction with established tandem mass spectrometric methods, can provide near complete structural characterization of a range of important lipid classes. As such, OzESI-MS may provide important new insight into the molecular diversity of naturally occurring lipids.

Mass spectrometric studies of the oxocarbons CnOn (n=3-6)

The anion radicals CnOn-. (n = 3-6) can be generated by ionization of cyclic carbonyl compounds in the negative ion mode. The ions as well as the corresponding neutral counterparts are probed by means of different mass spectrometric techniques. The results suggest that oxocarbons, i.e. cyclic polyketones, are formed under conservation of the skeletons of the precursor molecules. At least for n = 3, however, the experimental findings indicate partial rearrangement of the expected cyclopropanetrione structure to an oxycarboxylate for the anion, i.e. O-.-C=C-CO2-. For n = 4 and 6 almost complete dissociation of the neutral polyones into carbon monoxide is found, whereas for n = 5 a distinct recovery signal indicates the generation of genuine cyclopentanepentaone.

Formation of neutral molecules of potential stellar interest by neutralisation of negative ions in a mass spectrometer - The application of experiment and molecular modelling in concert

This paper is a modified version of a lecture which describes the synthesis, structure and reactivity of some neutral molecules of stellar significance. The neutrals are formed in the collision cell of a mass spectrometer following vertical Franck-Condon one electron oxidation of anions of known bond connectivity. Neutrals are characterised by conversion to positive ions and by extensive theoretical studies at the CCSD(T)/aug-cc-pVDZ//B3LYP/6-31G(d) level of theory. Four systems are considered in detail, viz (i) the formation of linear C-4 and its conversion to the rhombus C-4, (ii) linear C-5 and the atom scrambling of this system when energised, (iii) the stable cumulene oxide CCCCCO, and (iv) the elusive species O2C-CO. This paper is not intended to be a review of interstellar chemistry: examples are selected from our own work in this area. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Inc. All rights reserved.

Ways to increase the length of single wall carbon nanotubes in a magnetically enhanced arc discharge

Ability to control the properties of single-wall nanotubes produced in the arc discharge is important for many practical applications. Our experiments suggest that the length and purity of single-wall nanotubes significantly increase when the magnetic field is applied to the arc discharge. A model of a single wall carbon nanotube interaction and growth in the thermal plasma was developed which considers several important effects such as anode ablation that supplies the carbon plasma in an anodic arc discharge technique, and the momentum, charge and energy transfer processes between nanotube and plasma. The numerical simulations based on Monte-Carlo technique were performed, which explain an increase of the nanotubes produced in the magnetic field - enhanced arc discharge.

Identification of salivary N-glycoproteins and measurement of glycosylation site occupancy by boronate glycoprotein enrichment and liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry

RATIONALE Diseases including cancer and congenital disorders of glycosylation have been associated with changes in the site-specific extent of protein glycosylation. Saliva can be non-invasively sampled and is rich in glycoproteins, giving it the potential to be a useful biofluid for the discovery and detection of disease biomarkers associated with changes in glycosylation. METHODS Saliva was collected from healthy individuals and glycoproteins were enriched using phenylboronic acid based glycoprotein enrichment resin. Proteins were deglycosylated with peptide-N-glycosidase F and digested with AspN or trypsin. Desalted peptides and deglycosylated peptides were separated by reversed-phase liquid chromatography and detected with on-line electrospray ionization quadrupole-time-of-flight mass spectrometry using a 5600 TripleTof instrument. Site-specific glycosylation occupancy was semi-quantitatively determined from the abundance of deglycosylated and nonglycosylated versions of each given peptide. RESULTS Glycoprotein enrichment identified 67 independent glycosylation sites from 24 unique proteins, a 3.9-fold increase in the number of glycosylation sites identified. Enrichment of glycoproteins rather than glycopeptides allowed detection of both deglycosylated and nonglycosylated versions of each peptide, and thereby robust measurement of site-specific occupancy at 21 asparagines. Healthy individuals showed limited biological variability in occupancy, with partially modified sites having characteristics consistent with inefficient glycosylation by oligosaccharyltransferase. Inclusion of negative controls without enzymatic deglycosylation controlled for spontaneous chemical deamidation, and identified asparagines previously incorrectly annotated as glycosylated. CONCLUSIONS We developed a sample preparation and mass spectrometry detection strategy for rapid and efficient measurement of site-specific glycosylation occupancy on diverse salivary glycoproteins suitable for biomarker discovery and detection of changes in glycosylation occupancy in human disease.