873 resultados para Islamic Fashion


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Physical activity is well recognised as a means to reduce cancer risk; however, outdoor activity can increase sun exposure and consequential skin cancer risk. It is proposed, one of the key potential solutions to promote active lifestyles whilst enhancing protection against skin cancer is design resolution for active apparel that considers Australia’s sub-tropical climate whilst maintaining comfort, aesthetic appeal and performance. Using a design thinking approach, facilitated through collaboration between an NGO and a university, student designers were tasked with developing apparel prototypes to explore this challenge. Through practical ideation of problems, potential design solutions were developed within a modest NGO budget and adherence to specific brand guidelines. This project is novel as it demonstrates a low cost yet effective way of collaboratively creating a product to meet multiple needs, rather than reactively assessing already manufactured sun protection products for endorsement. It is a nimble and unique stepping stone in integrating sun safety considerations into clothing that is appealing to the population and creating cross-industry understandings of how design can better contribute to human health and wellbeing. Outcomes to be shared include empirical insights for updating sun safe clothing guidelines, issues around the aesthetic nature of sun safe apparel, and the role of design education for sun safety.

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New complexes of lanthanide perchlorates with 2-N-(pyridyl) benzamide (PyBA) of the type Ln(PyBA)3(ClO4)3 where Ln = Y and La---Yb have been synthesised and characterised by analyses, conductance, IR, 13C NMR (for diamagnetic complexes only) and electronic spectra. The molar conductance and IR data point to the ionic nature of the perchlorate groups in the complexes. IR data along with the 13C NMR data unequivocally proves that the coordination of the ligand to the metal ions taken place in a bidentate fashion through the oxygen of the benzamide group and the nitrogen of the heterocyclic ring. From a comparison of the visible electronic spectral shapes of the Nd3+, Ho3+ and Er3+ complexes with those reported in the literature, a 6-coordinate geometry around the metal ion has been assigned in all the complexes.

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The aim of this work was to study, whether international fashion trends show in knit designs in Finnish craft magazines and how trends are modified. Women s knitted clothes and accessories in autumn winter season 2005 2006 were analyzed. Future research, trends, fashion, designing and knitting provides theoretical basis for this study. The trend material of this study came from Carlin Women s knitwear winter 2005 2006, which is fashion forecast for Women s knitwear. In addition to the trend book, I selected two international fashion magazines to reinforce this study. Fashion magazines were L´Officiel, 1000 models, Milan New York winter 05/06, No 52, April 2005 and Collezioni Donna, Prêt-à-porter autumn-winter 2005 2006, No 107. Finnish craft magazines in this study were MODA s issues 4/2005, 5/2005, 6/2005 and Novita s issues autumn 2005, winter 2005 and Suuri Käsityölehti s issues 8/2005, 9/2005, 10/2005. For the base of the analyze I took themes from the trend book. From fashion magazines I searched knitwear designs and these designs were sorted out by themes of trend book. To this trend and fashion material I compared knit designs from craft magazines. I analyzed how fashion trends show in knit designs and how they are modified. I also studied what features of trends were shown and which did not appear in knit designs of the craft magazines. For analyzing trend pictures and knit designs in craft magazines I applied qualitative content analysis and image analysis. According to the results of this research, effects of trend can be recognized in knit designs of craft maga-zines, although the fashion trends have been applied very discreetly. Knit designs were very similar re-gardless of magazine. The craft magazine data included approximately as many designs from Novita and MODA. In Suuri Käsityölehti provided only fifth of the designs data. There were also designs in MODA and Suuri Käsityölehti, which were made of Novita s yarns. This research material includes yarns of 15 different yarn manufacturers. Although half of all knit designs were knitted from Novita s yarn. There were 10 different yarns from Novita. Nevertheless Novita s yarn called Aino was the most popular. Finnish craft magazines have not respond to popularity of knitting. Magazines do not provide any novelty designs for knitters. Knit designs in Finnish craft magazines are usually practical basic designs without any innovativeness.

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The objective of the present study was to increase knowledge about the atelier culture of recent history, especially about the ways in which atelier clothes were made. I look at the ways of dress-making in the production of a renowned atelier, Salon Kaarlo Forsman. I also give a general outline of the atelier. The studying method I used was triangulation, which is a typical approach in case studies of recent history. My data include 23 dresses by the Salon Forsman, theme interviews of four of the Salon workers and one mannequin, data from my research work, as well as press material and archives. The basis of the analysis of these materials was a theme frame that I had put together with the help of pre-understanding. I then completed and defined the theme frame on the basis of the analysis of the data. I also analyzed the dresses in the fashion photos in the press material. Salon Kaarlo Forsman represents a certain cultural period, the years 1937-1986, and a place where a woman could have individual clothes made for her, from hats to fur coats. The atelier was particularly known for embroidery with beads, draping, and fantastic cuttings designed by the owner, fashion designer Kaarlo Forsman. I draw an outline of the work and practices of the atelier, but also that of Kaarlo Forsman’s life work, as he had a great influence on the sewing methods atelier clothes. Mr. Forsman was able to stretch the first period of modern fashion well into the third period by refusing new, labor-saving methods and sticking to individually designer clothes to the end of his enterprise. The crucial practices in the atelier that I present in this study are fitting, designing, finishing and sewing, as well as beading and the decoration of dresses. I compare the activity, practices and dress-making methods in the Forsman atelier to that of Haute Couture in Paris, which served as model for Finnish fashion houses. I point out the similarities and differences.

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Background and aims. Fatness and dieting have been the object of interest between many fields for a long time. Home economics as a discipline enables a comprehensive inspection of fatness and dieting reviewing different disciplines. In addition to the aspect where the pursuit of dieting and health is seen from the perspective of medical and health science it is also been reviewd as a social and cultural phenomena. This study contemplates the influence of history, religion, medicalization and media on dieting and health culture. The objective is to find out if the modern dieting and health culture has gathered influences from centuries ago and absorbed religious features. The stress deriving from appereance has been discussed in the public and there are many solutions conserning weight issues. The purpose of this study is to find out what personal experiences and thoughts female pastors have conserning these questions. The media – which is one of the most influential systems nowadays – has undeniably a great effect on the consumer. The goal is furthermore to estimate the effect of the media on the changing of dieting and health culture. The three main research questions are: 1. What kind of conseptions do female pastors have of dieting and health culture and of its religious features? 2. What kind of personal experiences and conseptions do female pastors have of dieting and strivines of health? 3. How do female pastors regard the image the media has supplied of dieting and health culture? Material and methods. The qualitative data was gathered in year 2009 using the halfstructured theme interview -method. The data consists of interviews conducted with specialists of spiritual matters, i.e. ten female pastors who are between 35 and 60 years old and live in the metropolitan area. The analytical procedure used is called a theory based context analysis. Results and conclusions. Results of this study show that the idealization of slimness and healthiness is a matter discussed in the public on a daily basis. The problem faced was that the media provided contradictory information regarding fatness and dieting and the standard of slimness in commercials focused on females. The pursuit of dieting and healthiness was believed to include also religious elements. In the Middle Ages and the era after that the fatness, overeating and the pleasure one gets from eating was still seen as a condemnable matter in our culture. One could say this was like a sin. The respondents believed that healthiness, healthy living, optimal eating and good looks were a matter more or less equal than a religion. This was a derivative from the fact that treasuring health has become a life stearing value for many people. In the priest’s profession dieting and the pursuit of health was seen in the light of problems arising from weight issues. In ones profession for example the unhealthy eating in festive situations was seen as a matter that leads to unnecessary weight. Another aspect was the job circumstances that limited the degree of movement. The belief was that the female pastors would in a decreasing fashion confront stress deriving from appearence in their job. Keywords: dieting, fatness, healthiness, slimness, female pastors, religion, medicalization, media

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New complexes of lanthanide perchlorates with N-(2-pyrimidyl)benzamide (BApymH) of the general formulae [Ln(BApymH)4](ClO4)3 (where Ln = La-Yb and Y) have been synthesised and characterised by chemical analysis, molar conductivity and physical methods such as infrared and electronic spectra in the visible region. Molar conductance and infrared data point to the ionic nature of the per-chlorate groups in the complexes. IR data unequivocally proves that the coordination of the ligand to the metal ion takes place in a bidentate fashion through the oxygen of the secondary amide and nitrogen of the pyrimidine ring. From a comparison of the visible electronic spectral shapes of the Nd3+ and Ho3+ complexes with those reported in the literature, an eight coordinate geometry around the metal ion has tentatively been assigned in all the complexes.

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Urinary tract infections are a major source of morbidity for women and the elderly, with Uropathogenic Escherichia coli (UPEC) being the most prevalent causative pathogen. Studies in recent years have defined a key anti-inflammatory role for Interleukin-10 (IL-10) in urinary tract infection mediated by UPEC and other uropathogens. We investigated the nature of the IL-10-producing interactions between UPEC and host cells by utilising a novel co-culture model that incorporated lymphocytes, mononuclear and uroepithelial cells in histotypic proportions. This co-culture model demonstrated synergistic IL-10 production effects between monocytes and uroepithelial cells following infection with UPEC. Membrane inserts were used to separate the monocyte and uroepithelial cell types during infection and revealed two synergistic IL-10 production effects based on contact-dependent and soluble interactions. Analysis of a comprehensive set of immunologically relevant biomarkers in monocyte-uroepithelial cell co-cultures highlighted that multiple cytokine, chemokine and signalling factors were also produced in a synergistic or antagonistic fashion. These results demonstrate that IL-10 responses to UPEC occur via multiple interactions between several cells types, implying a complex role for infection-related IL-10 during UTI. Development and application of the co-culture model described in this study is thus useful to define the degree of contact dependency of biomarker production to UPEC, and highlights the relevance of histotypic co-cultures in studying complex host-pathogen interactions.

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Autoimmune diseases affect 5 % of the population and come in many forms, such as diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis and MS. However, how and why autoimmune diseases arise are not yet fully resolved. In this thesis, the onset of autoimmunity was investigated using both patient samples and a mouse model of autoimmunity. Autoimmune diseases are usually complex, due to a number of different causative genes and environmental factors. However, a few monogenic autoimmune diseases have been described, which are caused by mutations in only one gene per disease. One of such disease is called APECED (autoimmune polyendocrinopathy-candidiasis-ectodermal dystrophy) and is enriched in the Finnish population. The causative gene behind APECED is named AIRE from AutoImmune REgulator. How malfunction of just one gene product can cause the multitude of disease components found in APECED is not yet resolved. This thesis sought out to find out more about the functions of AIRE, in order to reveal why APECED and other autoimmune diseases arise and what goes wrong? Usually, immune cells are taught to distinguish between self and non-self during their development. That way, immune cells can fight off bacteria and microbes while leaving the tissues and organs of the host organism itself unharmed. In APECED, the development of immune cells called αβ T cells is incomplete. The cells are not able to fully distinguish between self and non-self. This leads to autodestruction of self tissues and autoimmune disease. One of the achievements of this thesis was the finding that the development of another set of T cells called γδ T cells is not affected by AIRE in mice or in men. Instead, we found that another type of immune cell important in tolerance, called the dendritic cell is defective in APECED patients and is not able to respond to microbial stimulus in a normal fashion. Finally, we studied Aire-deficient mice and found that autoantibodies expressed in the mice were not targeted against the same molecules as those found in APECED patients. This indicates differences in the autoimmune pathology in mice and men. More work is still required before we understand the mechanisms of tolerance and autoimmunity well enough to be able to cure APECED, let alone the more complex autoimmune diseases. Yet altogether, the findings of this thesis work bring us one step closer to finding out why and how APECED and common autoimmune diseases arise.

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The biological function of nitric oxide and its oxidized forms has received a great deal of attention over the past two decades. However much less attention has been focused on the reduced nitric oxide, nitroxyl (HNO). Unlike NO, HNO is highly reactive species and thus it needs to be generated by using donor compounds under experimental conditions. Currently there is only one donor available, Angeli s salt, which releases HNO in a controlled fashion under pysiological conditions. Prior studies have shown the pro-oxidative and cytotoxic potential of Angeli s salt compared to NO donors. The high reactivity of HNO with cysteine thiols is considered to form the biochemical basis for its unique properties compared to other nitrogen oxides. Such thiol modification cold result in disturbances of vital cellular functions and subsequently to death of disturbance sensitive cells, such as neurons. Therefore modification of proteins and lipids was studied in vitro and the potential neurotoxicity was studied in vivo by local infusion of Angeli s salt into the rat central nervous system. The results show that under aerobic in vitro conditions, HNO can, subsequent to autoxidation, cause irreversible oxidative modification of proteins and lipids. These effects are not however seen in cell culture or following infusion of Angeli s salt directly into the rat central nervous tissue likely due to presence of lower oxygen and higher thiol concentration. However, due to high reactivity with thiols, HNO can cause irreversible inactivation of cysteine modification sensitive enzymes such as cysteine proteases papain in vitro and cathepsin B in cell culture. Furthermore it was shown that infusion of HNO releasing Angeli s salt into the rat central nervous system causes necrotic cell death and motor dysfunction following infusion into the lumbal intrathecal space. In conclusion, the acute neurotoxic potential of Angeli s salt was shown to be relatively low, but still higher compared to NO donors. HNO was shown to affect numerous cellular processes which could result in neurotoxicity if HNO was produced in vivo.

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The presence of an inert immiscible organic phase in gas�liquid dispersions in stirred vessels influences the interfacial area in a more complex fashion than hitherto reported. As the organic phase fraction is increased, the interfacial area expressed on the basis of a unit volume of dispersion or aqueous phase, first increases, passes through a maximum and then decreases. This trend is observed irrespective of whether the area is determined by chemical means or by physical method. It is found that for low values of inert phase fraction, the average bubble size decreases whereas the gas holdup increases, resulting in increased interfacial area. The lower average bubble size is found to be due to partial prevention of coalescence as the bubbles size generated in the impeller region actually increases with the organic phase fraction. The actual values of interfacial areas depend on the nature of the organic phase. It is also found that the organic phase provides a parallel path for mass transfer to occur, when the solubility of gas in it is high.

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The assumption of nodes in a cooperative communication relay network operating in synchronous fashion is often unrealistic. In the present paper we consider two different models of asynchronous operation in cooperative-diversity networks experiencing slow fading and examine the corresponding diversity-multiplexing tradeoffs (DMT). For both models, we propose protocols and distributed space-time codes that asymptotically achieve the transmit diversity bound for all multiplexing gains and for number of relays N >= 2.

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Crime analysts have traditionally received little guidance from academic researchers in key tasks in the analysis process, specifically the testing of multiple hypotheses and evaluating evidence in a scientific fashion. This article attempts to fill this gap by outlining a method (the Analysis of Competing Hypotheses) of systematically analysing multiple explanations for crime problems. The method is systematic, avoids many cognitive errors common in analysis, and is explicit. It is argued that the implementation of this approach makes analytic products audit-able, the reasoning underpinning them transparent, and provides intelligence managers a rational professional development tool for individual analysts.

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The kidney filtration barrier consists of fenestrated endothelial cell layer, glomerular basement membrane and slit diaphragm (SD), the specialized junction between glomerular viscelar epithelial cells (podocytes). Podocyte injury is associated with the development of proteinuria, and if not reversed the injury will lead to permanent deterioration of the glomerular filter. The early events are characterized by disruption of the integrity of the SD, but the molecular pathways involved are not fully understood. Congenital nephrotic syndrome of the Finnish type (CNF) is caused by mutations in NPHS1, the gene encoding the SD protein nephrin. Lack of nephrin results in loss of the SD and massive proteinuria beginning before birth. Furthermore, nephrin expression is decreased in acquired human kidney diseases including diabetic nephropathy. This highlights the importance of nephrin and consequently SD in regulating the kidney filtration function. However, the precise molecular mechanism of how nephrin is involved in the formation of the SD is unknown. This thesis work aimed at clarifying the role of nephrin and its interaction partners in the formation of the SD. The purpose was to identify novel proteins that associate with nephrin in order to define the essential molecular complex required for the establishment of the SD. The aim was also to decipher the role of novel nephrin interacting proteins in podocytes. Nephrin binds to nephrin-like proteins Neph1 and Neph2, and to adherens junction protein P-cadherin. These interactions have been suggested to play a role in the formation of the SD. In this thesis work, we identified densin as a novel interaction partner for nephrin. Densin was localized to the SD and it was shown to bind to adherens junction protein beta-catenin. Furthermore, densin was shown to behave in a similar fashion as adherens junction proteins in cell-cell contacts. These results indicate that densin may play a role in cell adhesion and, therefore, may contribute to the formation of the SD together with nephrin and adherens junction proteins. Nephrin was also shown to bind to Neph3, which has been previously localized to the SD. Neph3 and Neph1 were shown to induce cell adhesion alone, whereas nephrin needed to trans-interact with Neph1 or Neph3 from the opposite cell surface in order to make cell-cell contacts. This was associated with the decreased tyrosine phosphorylation of nephrin. These data extend the current knowledge of the molecular composition of the nephrin protein complex at the SD and also provide novel insights of how the SD may be formed. This thesis work also showed that densin was up-regulated in the podocytes of CNF patients. Neph3 was up-regulated in nephrin deficient mouse kidneys, which share similar podocyte alterations and lack of the SD as observed in CNF patients podocytes. These data suggest that densin and Neph3 may have a role in the formation of morphological alterations in podocytes detected in CNF patients. Furthermore, this thesis work showed that deletion of beta-catenin specifically from adult mouse podocytes protected the mice from the development of adriamycin-induced podocyte injury and proteinuria compared to wild-type mice. These results show that beta-catenin play a role in the adriamycin induced podocyte injury. Podocyte injury is a hallmark in many kidney diseases and the changes observed in the podocytes of CNF patient share characteristics with injured podocytes observed in chronic kidney diseases. Therefore, the results obtained in this thesis work suggest that densin, Neph3 and beta-catenin participate in the molecular pathways which result in morphological alterations commonly detected in injured podocytes in kidney diseases.

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This paper identifies two narratives of the Anthropocene and explores how they play out in the realm of future-looking fashion production. Each narrative draws on mythic comparisons to gods and monsters to express humanity’s dilemmas, albeit from different perspectives. The first is a Malthusian narrative of collapse and scarcity, brought about by the monstrous, unstoppable nature of human technology set loose on the natural world. In this vein, philosopher Slavoj Zizek (2010) draws on Biblical analogies, likening ecological crisis to one of the four horsemen of the apocalypse. To find a myth to suit the present times, novelist A.S Byatt (2011) proposes Ragnarök, a Norse myth in which the gods destroy themselves. In contrast, the second narrative is one of technological cornucopia. Stewart Brand (2009, 27), self-described ‘eco-pragmatist’ writes, ‘we are as gods and we have to get good at it’. In his view, human technologies offer the only hope to mitigating the problems caused by human technology – Brand suggests harnessing nuclear power, bioengineering of crops and the geoengineering of the planet as the way forward. Similarly, the French philosopher Bruno Latour (2012, 274), exhorts us to “love our monsters”, likening our technologies to Doctor Frankenstein’s monster – set loose upon the world, and then reviled by his creator. For both Brand and Latour, human technology may be monstrous, but it must also be turned toward solutions. Within this schema, hopeful visions of the future of fashion are similarly divided. In the techno-enabled cornucopian future, the fashion industry embraces wearable technology, speed and efficiency. Technologies such as waterless dyeing, 3D printing and self-cleaning garments shift fashion into a new era of cleaner production. Meanwhile, in the narrative of scarcity, a more cautious approach sees fashion return to a new localism and valuing of the hand-made in a time of shrinking resources. Through discussion of future-looking fashion designers, brands, and activists, this paper explores how they may align along a spectrum to one of these two grand narratives of the future. The paper will discuss how these narratives may unconsciously shape the perspective of both producers and users around the fashion of today and the fashion of tomorrow. This paper poses the question: what stories can be written for fashion’s future in the Anthropocene, and are they fated, or can they be re-written?

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Two series of complexes of meconic acid (H3 Mec) with rare-earths have been prepared by varying the preparative procedure. The compounds have the general formulae, [Ln(Mec) (H2O)2]·3 H2O (whereLn=La, Ce, Pr, Nd, Sm, Ho and Y) and [Ln(HMec) (H2 Mec) (H2O)2]·4 H2O (whereLn=La, Pr, Nd and Sm). The infrared spectral data indicate that the carboxylate groups are bound to the rare-earth metal in a bidentate fashion. Thermal studies indicate that two water molecules are coordinated in each case. The complexes are probably polymeric.