857 resultados para Fibras textiles
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17 hojas : ilustraciones, fotografías a color.
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p.31-42
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p.267-274
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How do multilateral institutions influence the strategic choices and actions of international managers? This paper addresses the question by exploring the impact of the World Trade Organization's (WTO) decision-making process on multinational enterprises (MNEs). We discuss the three phases of the WTO decision-making lifecycle - the formulation of trade rules, the implementation of those rules, and the enforcement of the rules – and propose a strategic adjustment framework for understanding how companies alter their strategies and structures in response to the WTO's rules and operations. We argue that the increased relevance of multilateral rules and enforcement mechanisms – embodied in the WTO - is an important influence on MNE strategies and structures because of the increasing embeddedness of the WTO in national levels of regulation. We illustrate this through examples taken from the pharmaceutical, textiles and sugar industries sectors that have witnessed substantial multilateral regulation.
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This Invention relates to a method of manufacture of a composite concrete article, and in particular to a method of manufacture of a concrete article having textile structures integrated into the surface of the concrete to provide a novel aesthetic and/or functional surface finish
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Women’s contribution to abstract art in the interwar period is a subject that, to date, has received very little attention. In this article we deal with the untold story of the participation of women artists in Abstraction-Création, the foremost international group dedicated to abstract art in the 1930s. Founded in Paris in 1931, the group took on the work of two previous collectives to become a platform for the dissemination and promotion of abstract art and consisted of around a hundred members. Twelve of these were women, whose writings and works were published in the group’s annual magazine, abstraction creátion art non figuratif (1932-1936), and who participated in a number of the group’s exhibitions. Compared to what had occurred in previous groups, the participation of women, although reduced in number, was comparable to that of the male artists and being members of the group had a generally positive impact on the women’s careers. However, all this came at the expense of relinquishing any gender specificity in their work and the public presentation of it, and demonstrates that the normalization of women’s contributions to the avant-garde could only be brought about alongside a questioning of the more dogmatic views of modernity.
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This paper describes a collaborative practice, between an architect (the author) and a textile designer; its outcomes and the critical theoretical and feminist contexts from which the practice evolved and to which it still responds. The practice advocates the interweaving of more than the yarns, material and cultures on which it is physically based, but also the intertwining of theory and technology as a means to advance architectural practice. This is done in response to Ahrentzen’s charge to feminist scholars and practitioners to ‘embrace not only the abstract conceptual nature of much postmodernist theorizing but also that derived from the serious “hanging out”, looking at, listening to, scrutinising and theorizing lived experiences of the everyday’, in this instance the everyday practice of combining concrete and textiles.
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Malone, C.A.T., S.K.F. Stoddart, and N. James, Editorial. Antiquity, (Topics Include Antiquity’s first century, landscapes, textiles, Philip Barker, Barri Jones).
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Girli Concrete is a cross disciplinary funded research project based in the University of Ulster involving a textile designer/ researcher, an architect/ academic and a concrete manufacturing firm.
Girli Concrete brings together concrete and textile technologies, testing ideas of
concrete as textile and textile as structure. It challenges the perception of textiles as only the ‘dressing’ to structure and instead integrates textile technologies into the products of building products. Girli Concrete uses ‘low tech’ methods of wet and dry concrete casting in combination with ‘high tech’ textile methods using laser cutting, etching, flocking and digital printing. Whilst we have been inspired by recent print and imprint techniques in architectural cladding, Girli Concrete is generated within the depth of the concrete’s cement paste “skin”, bringing the trades and crafts of both industries together with innovative results.
Architecture and Textiles have an odd, somewhat unresolved relationship. Confined to a subservient role in architecture, textiles exist chiefly within the categories of soft furnishings and interior design. Girli Concrete aims to mainstream tactility in the production of built environment products, raising the human and environmental interface to the same specification level as the technical. This paper will chart:
The background and wider theoretical concerns to the project.
The development of Girli Concrete, highlighting the areas where craft becomes
art and art becomes science in the combination of textile and concrete
technologies.
The challenges of identifying funding to support such combination technologies,
working methods and philosophies.
The challenges of generating and sustaining practice within an academic
research environment
The outcomes to date
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The densely textured surfaces of Aran knitting seem to invite interpretation. They have been ‘read’ as identity documents, family trees, references to natural and spiritual phenomena, or even maps. This paper traces the search for meaning in Aran knitting, examining how these stitch patterns have been ‘read’ in the contexts of tourism, fine art and fashion. As Jo Turney (2013:55) argues, the idea of knitted textiles as communicative media in non-literate societies ‘consigns the garments to a preindustrial era of more rural and simple times’, situating them in an imagined state of ‘stasis’. Thus the ways in which Aran stitches are ‘read’ sometimes obscure the processes through which they are ‘written’, whether in terms of individual authorship and creativity, or in terms of their manufacture. Regardless of the historical veracity of claims that particular Aran stitch patterns index features of the social, natural or spiritual worlds, analysing the ways they have been ‘read’ in the context of comparable textile traditions, other crafts which have taken on ‘heritage’ souvenir status, and Irish national identity, reveals how Aran knitting has performed broader communicative functions (see Sonja Andrew 2008), which continue to be subverted and elaborated by fine artists, and translated into couture and mass market fashion products.
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The garment we now recognise as the Aran jumper emerged as an international symbol of Ireland from the twin twentieth century transatlantic flows of migration and tourism. Its power as a heritage object derives from: 1) the myth commonly associated with the object, in which the corpse of a drowned fisherman is identified and claimed by his family due to the stitch patterns of his jumper (Pádraig Ó Síochain 1962; Annette Lynch and Mitchell Strauss 2014); 2) the meanings attached to those stitch patterns, which have been read, for example, as genealogical records, representations of the natural landscape and references to Christian and pre-Christian ‘Celtic’ religion (Heinz Kiewe 1967; Catherine Nash 1996); and 3) booming popular interest in textile heritage on both sides of the Atlantic, fed by the reframing of domestic crafts such as knitting as privileged leisure pursuits (Rachel Maines 2009; Jo Turney 2009). The myth of the drowned fisherman plays into transatlantic migration narratives of loss and reclamation, promising a shared heritage that needs only to be decoded. The idea of the garment’s surface acting as text (or map) situates it within a preliterate idyll of romantic primitivism, while obscuring the circumstances of its manufacture. The contemporary resurgence in home textile production as recreation, mediated through transnational online networks, creates new markets for heritage textile products while attracting critical attention to the processes through which such objects, and mythologies, are produced. The Aran jumper’s associations with kinship, domesticity and national character make it a powerful tool in the promotion of ancestral (or genealogical) tourism, through marketing efforts such as The Gathering 2013. Nash’s (2010; 2014) work demonstrates the potential for such touristic encounters to disrupt and enrich public conceptions of heritage, belonging and relatedness. While the Aran jumper has been used to commodify a simplistic sense of mutuality between Ireland and north America, it carries complex transatlantic messages in both directions.
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En el área textil, sea esta tejeduría, hilandería, tintorería, o acabados de tela intervienen una infinidad de factores externos, relacionados con el tipo de material a procesar, se necesita tener un control riguroso de los factores externos tales como humedad relativa (HR) y temperatura, por lo que en el diseño de un área específica de cualquier planta textil, en este caso tejeduría, se invierte mucho dinero para garantizar condiciones estables de climatización tanto para el proceso como para el recurso humano.
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O presente trabalho tem como objectivo o estudo e projecto de receptores optimizados para sistemas de comunicações por fibra óptica de muito alto débito (10Gb/s e 40Gb/s), com a capacidade integrada de compensação adaptativa pós-detecção da distorção originada pela característica de dispersão cromática e de polarização do canal óptico. O capítulo 1 detalha o âmbito de aplicabilidade destes receptores em sistemas de comunicações ópticas com multiplexagem no comprimento de onda (WDM) actuais. O capítulo apresenta ainda os objectivos e principais contribuições desta tese. O capítulo 2 detalha o projecto de um amplificador pós-detecção adequado para sistemas de comunicação ópticos com taxa de transmissão de 10Gb/s. São discutidas as topologias mais adequadas para amplificadores pós detecção e apresentados os critérios que ditaram a escolha da topologia de transimpedância bem como as condições que permitem optimizar o seu desempenho em termos de largura de banda, ganho e ruído. Para além disso são abordados aspectos relacionados com a implementação física em tecnologia monolítica de microondas (MMIC), focando em particular o impacto destes no desempenho do circuito, como é o caso do efeito dos componentes extrínsecos ao circuito monolítico, em particular as ligações por fio condutor do monólito ao circuito externo. Este amplificador foi projectado e produzido em tecnologia pHEMT de Arsenieto de Gálio e implementado em tecnologia MMIC. O protótipo produzido foi caracterizado na fábrica, ainda na bolacha em que foi produzido (on-wafer) tendo sido obtidos dados de caracterização de 80 circuitos protótipo. Estes foram comparados com resultados de simulação e com desempenho do protótipo montado num veículo de teste. O capítulo 3 apresenta o projecto de dois compensadores eléctricos ajustáveis com a capacidade de mitigar os efeitos da dispersão cromática e da dispersão de polarização em sistemas ópticos com débito binário de 10Gb/s e 40Gb/s, com modulação em banda lateral dupla e banda lateral única. Duas topologias possíveis para este tipo de compensadores (a topologia Feed-Forward Equalizer e a topologia Decision Feedback Equaliser) são apresentadas e comparadas. A topologia Feed-Forward Equaliser que serviu de base para a implementação dos compensadores apresentados é analisada com mais detalhe sendo propostas alterações que permitem a sua implementação prática. O capítulo apresenta em detalhe a forma como estes compensadores foram implementados como circuitos distribuídos em tecnologia MMIC sendo propostas duas formas de implementar as células de ganho variável: com recurso à configuração cascode ou com recurso à configuração célula de Gilbert. São ainda apresentados resultados de simulação e experimentais (dos protótipos produzidos) que permitem tirar algumas conclusões sobre o desempenho das células de ganho com as duas configurações distintas. Por fim, o capítulo inclui ainda resultados de desempenho dos compensadores testados como compensadores de um sinal eléctrico afectado de distorção. No capítulo 4 é feita uma análise do impacto da modulação em banda lateral dupla (BLD) em comparação com a modulação em banda lateral única (BLU) num sistema óptico afectado de dispersão cromática e de polarização. Mostra-se que com modulação em BLU, como não há batimento entre portadoras das duas bandas laterais em consequência do processo quadrático de detecção e há preservação da informação da distorção cromática do canal (na fase do sinal), o uso deste tipo de modulação em sistemas de comunicação óptica permite maior tolerância à dispersão cromática e os compensadores eléctricos são muito mais eficientes. O capítulo apresenta ainda resultados de teste dos compensadores desenvolvidos em cenários experimentais de laboratório representativos de sistemas ópticos a 10Gb/s e 40Gb/s. Os resultados permitem comparar o desempenho destes cenários sem e com compensação eléctrica optimizada, para os casos de modulação em BLU e em BLD, e considerando ainda os efeitos da dispersão na velocidade de grupo e do atraso de grupo diferencial. Mostra-se que a modulação BLU em conjunto com compensação adaptativa eléctrica permite um desempenho muito superior á modulação em BLD largamente utilizada nos sistemas de comunicações actuais. Por fim o capítulo 5 sintetiza e apresenta as principais conclusões deste trabalho.