The Fashion Studies Book

The Fashion Book is an exciting, readable and comprehensive, all-in-one resource for students of fashion across the English-speaking world. It is designed as an introduction to fashion studies that can be used in a range of fashion courses from fashion studies degrees to fashion modules, and majors in disciplines including cultural studies, cultural sociology, cultural geography, communications and media, anthropology and cultural history. The book will present current writings and research on major topics debates in fashion studies drawing on the literature on fashion theory and incorporating many global case studies (as easy-to-read boxed material). Graphs, tables and diagrams will add texture to the written material. Approximately 200 colour images are planned to generously illustrate the historical and the contemporary tapestry of fashion. A dedicated interactive website will complement the text and ensure that students are in touch with the latest news, issues and trends.

Essential Oils in Food Applications

Historical use of essential oils (EOs) from Australian native plants for therapeutic and food purposes, both by the indigenous people and the early colonial settlers, have been reported. The use of EOs in food applications is based on the needs of today's consumer looking for wholesome food without chemical preservatives. This green consumerism has also spread to agricultural practices and increasingly there is a demand for the use of environmentally friendly alternatives to replace conventional insecticides. There is also an increasing demand for new flavors in the food and beverage sector and EOs, with their unique and exciting aromas and flavors, can contribute to this market need. However, it is important to note that each geographical region has considerable variability in the types of plants from which EOs are derived. This chapter illustrates this with reference to Australia and covers trends in the use of Australian native EOs in food and agriculture applications.

The Road to Hell Is Paved with Good Interventions : A Pragmatic Examination of Humanitarian Intervention with Special Reference to Kosovo

Kansainvälisen oikeuden alaan kuuluvassa tutkielmassa käsitellään humanitaarisen intervention oikeutusta ja laillisuutta. Tutkimuskysymyksenä on, missä määrin humanitaarisilla näkökohdilla perusteltuja sotilaallisia toimia tai niillä uhkaamista voi pitää kansainvälisoikeudellisesti hyväksyttävänä ja millainen painoarvo ennakkotapauksena olisi annettava NATO-maiden Kosovossa toteuttamalle väliintulolle. Tutkielmassa perehdytään ihmisoikeusajattelun tiettyjen taustaoletusten kritiikkiin. Tarkastelun kohteena ovat erityisesti kannanotot, joiden mukaan ihmisoikeuksia ei voi pitää luonteeltaan universaaleina, sekä kyseiseen kritiikkiin liittyvät väitteet siitä, että ns. hegemonisessa asemassa olevat valtiot hyödyntävät ihmisoikeusargumentteja oikeuttaakseen voimankäyttönsä. Universaalisuuskritiikkiä voidaan pitää pitkälti perusteltuna, mutta nykyinen kansainvälinen yhteisö tarvitsee kuitenkin tietynlaisia yleismaailmallisia normeja voidakseen toimia tehokkaasti. Kritiikin ei voikaan katsoa pätevän humanitaarisen intervention kannalta keskeisiin ihmisoikeusnormeihin kuten kansanmurhan kieltoon, sillä kyseiset velvoitteet suojaavat kansainvälisen yhteisön toimivuutta ja uskottavuutta. Humanitaarisiin argumentteihin liittyy kuitenkin muita ongelmia: niillä on esimerkiksi aika ajoin pyritty oikeuttamaan sotilaallisia toimia, joissa ihmisoikeusnäkökohdat eivät välttämättä ole olleet etusijalla. Ihmisoikeuksille ei ole syytä antaa kansainvälisessä oikeudessa asemaa universaaleina "superargumentteina", jotka eivät olisi kyseenalaistettavissa. YK:n peruskirjan ja kansainvälisen tapaoikeuden näkökulmasta humanitaarisen intervention kaltaiseen voimankäyttöön vaaditaan turvallisuusneuvoston hyväksyntä, jota ei Kosovo-operaatioon saatu. Interventiota voi tässä suhteessa pitää yksiselitteisesti laittomana, sillä sen tueksi esitetyt oikeudelliset argumentit eivät ole vakuuttavia. Tapaukseen liittyvät ihmisoikeusnäkökohdat ovat kuitenkin siinä määrin merkittäviä, että ongelmaan ei ole perusteltua suhtautua tiukan legalistisesti. Operaation hyväksyminen moraaliargumenttien nojalla voisi kuitenkin johtaa nykyisten voimankäyttörajoitusten marginalisoitumiseen, mikä olisi yllä käsitellyn kritiikin valossa ongelmallista. Tutkielmassa nostetaan suositeltavaksi ratkaisuksi lähestymistapa, jossa Kosovon tapaus ymmärretään yksittäisenä oikeudenvastaisena mutta samalla oikeudenulkoisena poikkeustapauksena. Tällöin peruskirjan mukainen voimankäytön sääntely säilyy entisellään ilman että humanitaariset näkökohdat jäisivät tyystin huomiotta. Ratkaisu ei sulje pois mahdollisuutta suhtautua positiivisesti Kosovo-operaation mahdollisesti luomaan "poliittiseen normiin": suuren mittakaavan ihmisoikeusloukkaukset eivät jää Euroopassa seurauksitta. Ilman turvallisuusneuvoston suostumusta toteutettaviin humanitaarisiin interventioihin liittyvien käytännöllisten ja kansainvälisoikeudellisten riskien vuoksi niihin on kuitenkin aihetta suhtautua suurella varauksella.

Theory of Non-linear Waves in Multi-dimensions: with Special Reference to Surface Water Waves

The surface water waves are "modal" waves in which the "physical space" (t, x, y, z) is the product of a propagation space (t, x, y) and a cross space, the z-axis in the vertical direction. We have derived a new set of equations for the long waves in shallow water in the propagation space. When the ratio of the amplitude of the disturbance to the depth of the water is small, these equations reduce to the equations derived by Whitham (1967) by the variational principle. Then we have derived a single equation in (t, x, y)-space which is a generalization of the fourth order Boussinesq equation for one-dimensional waves. In the neighbourhood of a wave froat, this equation reduces to the multidimensional generalization of the KdV equation derived by Shen & Keller (1973). We have also included a systematic discussion of the orders of the various non-dimensional parameters. This is followed by a presentation of a general theory of approximating a system of quasi-linear equations following one of the modes. When we apply this general method to the surface water wave equations in the propagation space, we get the Shen-Keller equation.

Regional Blocs: Building Blocks or stumbling Blocks? (Book Review)

Reviews the book `Regional Blocks: Building Blocks or Stumbling Blocks?,' by A.S. and P. Bhalla.

A Control Strategy for Reference Wave Adaptive Current Generation

Speed control of ac motors requires variable frequency, variable current, or variable voltage supply. Variable frequency supply can be obtained directly from a fixed frequency supply by using a frequency converter or from a dc source using inverters. In this paper a control technique for reference wave adaptive-current generation by modulating the inverter voltage is explained. Extension of this technique for three-phase induction-motor speed control is briefly explained. The oscillograms of the current waveforms obtained from the experimental setup are also shown.

Revision of the family Alycidae (Acariformes, Acari), with special reference to European species

The thesis provides a proposal to divide Alycidae G. Canestrini & Fanzago into two subfamilies and four tribes. This new hierarchy is based on a reassessment and reranking of new and previously known synapomorphies of the clusters concerned by cladistic analysis, using 60 morphological characters for 48 ingroup species. The basic characters of the taxa are illustrated either by SEM micrographs (Scanning Electron Microscopy) or by outline drawings. The presented classification includes the definitions of Alycini G. Canestrini & Fanzago new rank; Bimichaeliini Womersley new rank; Petralycini new rank; and the (re)descriptions of Alycus C.L. Koch, Pachygnathus Dugès, Amphialycus Zachvatkin, Bimichaelia Thor and Laminamichaelia gen. nov. The species described or redescribed are: Pachygnathus wasastjernae sp. nov. from Kvarken (Merenkurkku), Finland; Pachygnathus villosus Dugès (in Oken); Alycus roseus C.L. Koch; Alycus denasutus (Grandjean) comb. and stat. nov.; Alycus trichotus (Grandjean) comb. nov.; Alycus marinus (Schuster) comb. nov.; Amphialycus (Amphialycus) pentophthalmus Zachvatkin; Amphialycus (Amphialycus) leucogaster (Grandjean); and Amphialycus (Orthacarus) oblongus (Halbert) comb. nov.; Bimichaelia augustana (Berlese); Bimichaelia sarekensis Trägårdh; Laminamichaelia setigera (Berlese) comb. nov.; Laminamichelia arbusculosa (Grandjean) comb. nov.; Laminamichelia subnuda (Berlese) comb. nov. and Petralycus unicornis Grandjean. Fourteen nominal species were found to be junior synonymies. The importance of sensory organs in taxonomy is well recognized, but inclusion of the elaborate skin pattern seemed to improve essentially the usefulness of the prodorsal sensory area. The detailed pictures of the prodorsa of the European alycids could be used like passport photographs for the species. A database like this of prodorsa of other mite taxa as well might be an answer to future needs of species identification in soil zoology, ecology and conservation.

An annotated checklist of amphibian of India with some insights into the patterns of species discoveries, distribution and endemism

An annotated checklist of 284 species of amphibians of India accommodated under 50 genera and 14 families is provided. Synonyms, English names, type localities, deposition of type specimens, type specimen availability and distributional records in India and outside India are provided for all the species. Among the 284 species of amphibians from India, 132 are endemic to Western Ghats; 29 to Northeastern India; and 5 to Andaman Nicobar islands. Species discovery patterns from the various biogeographic zones in India are discussed in detail. Cumulative discovery pattern with special reference to the genera Fejervarya (17 species), Nyctibatrachus (16 species), Indirana (10 species), Micrixalus (11 species), Philautus (46 species) and Gegeneophis (10 species) are also discussed.

Negative sequence compensation within fundamental positive sequence reference frame for a stiff micro-grid generation in a wind power system using slip ring induction machine

An isolated wind power generation scheme using slip ring induction machine (SRIM) is proposed. The proposed scheme maintains constant load voltage and frequency irrespective of the wind speed or load variation. The power circuit consists of two back-to-back connected inverters with a common dc link, where one inverter is directly connected to the rotor side of SRIM and the other inverter is connected to the stator side of the SRIM through LC filter. Developing a negative sequence compensation method to ensure that, even under the presence of unbalanced load, the generator experiences almost balanced three-phase current and most of the unbalanced current is directed through the stator side converter is the focus here. The SRIM controller varies the speed of the generator with variation in the wind speed to extract maximum power. The difference of the generated power and the load power is either stored in or extracted from a battery bank, which is interfaced to the common dc link through a multiphase bidirectional fly-back dc-dc converter. The SRIM control scheme, maximum power point extraction algorithm and the fly-back converter topology are incorporated from available literature. The proposed scheme is both simulated and experimentally verified.

Evaluation of regional and distant metastases in head and neck squamous cell carcinoma patients with special reference to the assessment of regional lymph nodes in oral cancer

For optimal treatment planning, a thorough assessment of the metastatic status of mucosal squamous cell carcinoma of the head and neck (HNSCC) is required. Current imaging methods do not allow the recognition of all patients with metastatic disease. Therefore, elective treatment of the cervical lymph nodes is usually given to patients in whom the risk of subclinical metastasis is estimated to exceed 15-20%. The objective of this study was to improve the pre-treatment evaluation of patients diagnosed with HNSCC. Particularly, we aimed at improving the identification of patients who will benefit from elective neck treatment. Computed tomography (CT) of the chest and abdomen was performed prospectively for 100 patients diagnosed with HNSCC. The findings were analysed to clarify the indications for this examination in this patient group. CT of the chest influenced the treatment approach in 3% of patients, while CT of the abdomen did not reveal any significant findings. Our results suggest that CT of the chest and abdomen is not indicated routinely for patients with newly diagnosed HNSCC but can be considered in selected cases. Retrospective analysis of 80 patients treated for early stage squamous cell carcinoma of the oral tongue was performed to investigate the potential benefits of elective neck treatment and to examine whether histopathological features of the primary tumour could be used in the prediction of occult metastases, local recurrence, or/and poor survival. Patients who had received elective neck treatment had significantly fewer cervical recurrences during the follow-up when compared to those who only had close observation of the cervical lymph nodes. Elective neck treatment did not result in survival benefit, however. Of the histopathological parameters examined, depth of infiltration and pT-category (representing tumour diameter) predicted occult cervical metastasis, but only the pT-category predicted local recurrence. Depth of infiltration can be used in the identification of at risk patients but no clear cut-off value separating high-risk and low-risk patients was found. None of the histopathological parameters examined predicted survival. Sentinel lymph node (SLN) biopsy was studied as a means of diagnosing patients with subclinical cervical metastases. SLN biopsy was applied to 46 patients who underwent elective neck dissection for oral squamous cell carcinoma. In addition, SLN biopsy was applied to 13 patients with small oral cavity tumours who were not intended to undergo elective neck dissection because of low risk of occult metastasis. The sensitivity of SLN biopsy for finding subclinical cervical metastases was found to be 67%, when SLN status was compared to the metastatic status of the rest of the neck dissection specimen. Of the patients not planned to have elective neck dissection, SLN biopsy revealed cervical metastasis in 15% of the patients. Our results suggest that SLN biopsy can not yet entirely replace elective neck dissection in the treatment of oral cancer, but it seems beneficial for patients with low risk of metastasis who are not intended for elective neck treatment according to current treatment protocols.