Illegitimate identity in the middle of an ideological crisis and tensions in the consumption network: a study on why plus-size fashion brands are illegitimate fashion elements

O presente trabalho explora as causas pelas quais o campo da moda plus size carece de legitimidade com as consumidoras plus size. Eu explorei o assunto em três artigos. No primeiro, eu estudo o processo de legitimação de um novo mercado emergente, o mercado da moda plus size brasileira e os desafios para sua a institucionalização. Eu conduzi dezessete entrevistas com consumidoras plus size, uma netnografia em quatro blogs de moda plus size brasileiros e analisei de maneira semiótica um site que vende roupas de moda plus size. Meus resultados indicam que, apesar de ter atores legítimos que promovem essas marcas de moda plus size, o campo da moda plus size ainda é percebido como uma versão vergonhosa do campo da moda. Defendo aqui que o fato de uma das lógicas de campo da moda plus size ser estigma, acaba afetando os projetos identitários das consumidoras de maneira depreciativa, de forma elas não se envolvem em práticas de capital cultural que ocorrem dentro do campo da moda plus size. No segundo artigo, eu conduzi uma introspecção genealógica em que eu pesquisei questões de identidade. Como uma mulher (que se assume ) plus size, eu imaginei que seria relevante para olhar para dentro de mim mesma, a fim de explorar a forma como a minha identidade liga-se com a rede semiótica-material que me rodeia em termos de moda, alimentos e outros elementos. Meus dados vieram tanto de técnicas de introspecção simultâneas, quanto retrospectivas. Em termos teóricos, eu usei a ideia de ―assemblages‖ e eu foquei minha análise tanto nos aspectos materiais da minha rede de consumo, quanto na estabilidade da rede. As consequências da minha assemblage estão ligadas a uma gestão de qualidade total da minha identidade, tanto online como off-line, refletidas em práticas de consumo que se conectam à ideia de uma lógica de consumo bulímica em que o consumo de alimentos e gestão corpo estão interligadas. Por fim, no meu terceiro artigo, eu explorei o conceito de identidade a partir do consumo da moda feminina plus size. Foram feitas catorze entrevistas fenomenológicas, cujos dados foram analisados a partir de uma perspectiva hermenêutica. Três categorias temáticas emergiram da análise de dados: a construção da identidade por meio da moda, elementos de identidade plus size e estratégias criativas para lidar com a falta de produtos para mulheres plus size no varejo. Entre os principais resultados, destacam-se a forma como o termo plus size atua como estigma, influenciando projetos de identidade das consumidoras, o papel do varejo no processo de estigmatização e a saga épica de compras, que envolve um "mercado negro", com a participação de vendedores. Eu concluo discutindo o papel da identidade na instabilidade do campo da moda plus size.

Tratamento termoquímico do titânio auxiliado por plasma de ar - N2 - O2

Discs were grade II cp Ti oxynitride by plasma of Ar - N2 - O2 using different proportions of individual gases. These ratios were established from analysis of optical emission spectroscopy (OES) of plasma species. The proportions that resulted in species whose spectra showed an abrupt change of light intensity were chosen for this study. Nanohardness tests revealed that there was a correlation between the intensity of N2 + species with the hardness, because the treatments where they had a higher intensity, obtained a higher value nanohardness, although the crystalline phases have remained unchanged. With respect to topography, it was observed that in general, the surface roughness is related to the intensities of plasma species, because they may have different values depending on the behavior of the species. Images obtained by optical microscopy revealed a surface with grains of different colors to optical reflectance showed a peak of reflection in the red area. Measures the contact angle and surface tension showed hydrophilic properties and hydrophilic with little variation of polar and dispersive components of surface tension

Influência das espécies do plasma de N2 + O2 nas propriedades físicoquímicas das superfícies do pet

This work reports the influence of the poly (ethylene terephthalate) textile and films surface modification by plasmas of O2 and mixtures (N2 + O2), on their physical and chemical properties. The plasma surface polymeric modification has been used for many researchs, because it does not affect the environment with toxic agents, the alterations remains only at nanometric layers and this technique shows expressive results. Then, due to its good acceptance, the treatment was carried out in a vacuum chamber. Some parameters remained constant during all treatment, such as: Voltage 470 V; Pressure 1,250 Mbar; Current: 0, 10 A and gas flow: 10 cm3/min, using oxygen plasma alternating the treatment time 10 to 60 min with an increase of 10 min to each subsequent treatment. Also, the samples were treated with a gas mixture (nitrogen + oxygen) which was varied only the gas composition from 0 to 100% leaving the treatment time remaining constant to all treatment (10 min). The plasma treatment was characterized in-situ with Optics Emission Spectroscopy (OES), and the samples was characterized by contact angle, surface tension, Through Capillary tests, Raman spectroscopy, Infrared attenuated total reflection (IR-ATR) and atomic force microscopy, scanning electronic Microscopy (SEM) and X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy (XPS). The results showed that oxygen treated fabrics presented high wettability, due to the hydrophilic groups incorporation onto the surface formed through spputering of carbon atoms. For the nitrogen atmosphere, there is the a film deposition of amine groups. Treatment with small oxygen concentration in the mixture with nitrogen has a higher spputered species of the samples

Estudo da molhabilidade de tecidos 100% poliéster tratados em plasma N2/O2 em função do seu envelhecimento natural

This work reports the influence of the poly (ethylene terephthalate) textile surface modification by plasmas of O2 and mixtures (N2 + O2), on their physical and chemical properties. The treatment was carried out in a vacuum chamber. Some parameters remained constant during all treatment, such as: Voltage 470 V; Pressure 1,250 Mbar; Current: 0, 10 A and gas flow: 10 cm3/min. Other parameters, such as working gas composition and treatment time, were modified as the following: to the O2 plasma modified samples only the treatment time was changed (10, 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 minutes). To the plasma with O2 and N2 only the chemical concentrations were changed. Through Capillary tests (vertical) an increase in textile wettability was observed as well as its influence on aging time and its consequence on wettability. The surface functional groups created after plasma treatments were investigated using X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy (XPS). The surface topography was examined by scanning electron microscope (SEM)

APPLICATION of THE HAZARD ANALYSIS and CRITICAL CONTROL POINT (HACCP) SYSTEM on THE MUSHROOM PROCESSING LINE FOR FRESH CONSUMPTION

The Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point (HACCP) is a preventive system that intends to guarantee the safety and harmlessness of food. It improves the quality of products as it eliminates possible defects during the process, and saves costs by practically eliminating final product inspection. This work describes the typical hazards encountered on the mushroom processing line for fresh consumption. Throughout the process, only the reception stage of mushrooms has been considered a critical control point (CCP). The main hazards at this stage were: the presence of unauthorised phytosanitary products; larger doses of such products than those permitted; the presence of pathogenic bacteria or thermo-stable enterotoxins. Putting into practice such knowledge would provide any industry that processes mushrooms for fresh consumption with a self-control HACCP-based system for its own productions.

The Effects of Physical Fitness and Body Composition on Oxygen Consumption and Heart Rate Recovery After High-Intensity Exercise

The aim of this study was to investigate the potential relationship between excess post-exercise oxygen consumption (EPOC), heart rate recovery (HRR) and their respective time constants (tvo(2) and t(HR)) and body composition and aerobic fitness (VO(2)max) variables after an anaerobic effort. 14 professional cyclists (age = 28.4 +/- 4.8 years, height = 176.0 +/- 6.7 cm, body mass = 74.4 +/- 8.1 kg, VO(2)max = 66.8 +/- 7.6 mL. kg(-1) . min(-1)) were recruited. Each athlete made 3 visits to the laboratory with 24h between each visit. During the first visit, a total and segmental body composition assessment was carried out. During the second, the athletes undertook an incremental test to determine VO(2)max. In the final visit, EPOC (15-min) and HRR were measured after an all-out 30s Wingate test. The results showed that EPOC is positively associated with % body fat (r = 0.64), total body fat (r = 0.73), fat-free mass (r = 0.61) and lower limb fat-free mass (r = 0.55) and negatively associated with HRR (r = - 0.53, p < 0.05 for all). HRR had a significant negative correlation with total body fat and % body fat (r = - 0.62, r = - 0.56 respectively, p < 0.05 for all). These findings indicate that VO(2)max does not influence HRR or EPOC after high-intensity exercise. Even in short-term exercise, the major metabolic disturbance due to higher muscle mass and total muscle mass may increase EPOC. However, body fat impedes HRR and delays recovery of oxygen consumption after effort in highly trained athletes.

Effect of the consumption of a new symbiotic shake on glycemia and cholesterol levels in elderly people with type 2 diabetes mellitus

Background: The consumption of foods containing probiotic and prebiotic ingredients is growing consistently every year, and in view of the limited number of studies investigating their effect in the elderly.Objective: The objective of this study was to evaluate the effect of the consumption of a symbiotic shake containing Lactobacillus acidophilus, Bifidobacterium bifidum and fructooligosaccharides on glycemia and cholesterol levels in elderly people.Methods: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was conducted on twenty volunteers (ten for placebo group and ten for symbiotic group), aged 50 to 60 years. The criteria for inclusion in the study were: total cholesterol > 200 mg/dL; triglycerides > 200 mg/dL and glycemia > 110 mg/dL. Over a total test period of 30 days, 10 individuals (the symbiotic group) consumed a daily dose of 200 mL of a symbiotic shake containing 10(8) UFC/mL Lactobacillus acidophilus, 10(8) UFC/mL Bifidobacterium bifidum and 2 g oligofructose, while 10 other volunteers (the placebo group) drank daily the same amount of a shake that did not contain any symbiotic bacteria. Blood samples were collected 15 days prior to the start of the experiment and at 10-day intervals after the beginning of the shake intake. The standard lipid profile (total cholesterol, triglycerides and HDL cholesterol) and glycemia, or blood sugar levels, were evaluated by an enzyme colorimetric assay.Results: The results of the symbiotic group showed a non-significant reduction (P > 0.05) in total cholesterol and triglycerides, a significant increase (P < 0.05) in HDL cholesterol and a significant reduction (P < 0.05) in fasting glycemia. No significant changes were observed in the placebo group.Conclusion: The consumption of symbiotic shake resulted in a significant increase in HDL and a significant decrease of glycemia.

Respostas fisiológicas durante teste de caminhada dos 6 minutos em mulheres com diferentes níveis de adiposidade

Backgroud: Obesity is a major public health problem and is related to the low physical capacity when obese are compared to no-obese people, however the cause of this limitation is not completely understood. The measurement associated of physiological response to the telemetric 6MWT adds information of metabolic and respiratory system for diagnose of the functional limitation. Objective: Analyze physiological, metabolic and ventilatory responses in women with different body fat during the 6MWT. Methods: 32 women (8 non-obese, 8 Overweight, 8 Obese and 8 morbidly obese) were evaluated for anthropometry, lung function and exercise capacity. Results: Morbidly obese walked the shortest distance (400.2±38.7m), had lower VO2/Kg (12.75±3.20l/Kg/min) and lower R (0.74± 0.11) in the 6MWT compared to other groups. Analyses of metabolic (VO2 and VCO2) and respiratory (VE, VT and BF) during the test did not identify differences between groups. The evaluation of cardiac function (O2 pulse) found higher values in the OM (12.3 ± 4.9ml/bat). Conclusion: The OM had worse performance in the 6MWT compared to other groups. The physical performance may be reduced in this population related to a protocol-dependent response because the speed of 6MWT is self-adjusted allows the individual himself select the intensity of the test, making it set at a speed where there is energy saving

Biomass consumption and CO2, CO and main hydrocarbon gas emissions in an Amazonian forest clearing fire

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Honey consumption in the state of São Paulo: a risk to human health?

Infantile botulism was recognized in 1976 as a paralyzing disease caused by the ingestion of viable spores that would germinate and colonize the intestinal tract of infants, with local production and absorption of Clostridium botulinum toxin. The possible origins of botulinic spores are dust and honey, which has been identified as a dietary risk factor for infantile botulism. The objectives of the present study were to investigate 100 honey samples obtained in the state of São Paulo (Brazil) in terms of incidence of botulinic spores and of microbiologic quality, in agreement with Decree 367/9. All 100 samples analysed were negative for the presence of Salmonella, Shigella, total coliforms. C botulinum spores were present in 3 samples (3%) and molds and yeasts, in 64 samples (64%), but only 25 (25%) exceeded established criteria, with counts ranging from zero to 1.5 x 10(5) CFU/g. The presence of small sporogenic Gram-positive rods was observed in 42 (42%) of the 100 samples tested but these bacteria were not identified. (C) 2003 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Efeitos da fisioterapia respiratória convencional versus aumento do fluxo expiratório na saturação de O2, freqüência cardíaca e freqüência respiratória, em prematuros no período pós-extubação

INTRODUÇÃO: Recém-nascidos (RN) prematuros apresentam elevada morbidade respiratória e necessidade de ventilação mecânica, assim, a fisioterapia respiratória é parte integrante da assistência neonatal. Objetivo: Comparar os efeitos da fisioterapia respiratória convencional (FRC) versus aumento do fluxo expiratório (AFE), na saturação de O2 (SpO2), freqüência cardíaca (FC) e na freqüência respiratória (FR) em prematuros no período pós-extubação. Método: Ensaio clínico randomizado realizado na UTI Neonatal do Hospital das Clínicas de BotucatuUNESP, comparando duas técnicas fisioterapêuticas, aplicadas em recém-nascidos prematuros, nas primeiras 48 horas pós-extubação. Para a análise estatística foram utilizados o teste t Student, Mann-Whitney, Qui-quadrado e o teste exato de Fisher, com nível de significância em 5%. Resultados: Os dois grupos de estudo: Grupo FRC (n= 20) e grupo AFE (n= 20), não diferiram quanto à idade gestacional (média de 28 semanas) e peso de nascimento (média de 1100 gramas). em ambos os grupos a síndrome do desconforto respiratório (SDR) foi o principal diagnóstico. A mediana da idade no início da fisioterapia foi de sete dias no grupo AFE e 11 dias na FRC. Ambas as técnicas produziram aumento significativo da SpO2 aos 10 e 30 minutos, sem alterações na FR. A FC aumentou significativamente após a FRC e não se alterou após o AFE. Conclusão: Os resultados sugerem que o AFE é menos estressante que a FRC e pode ser aplicado em prematuros no período pós-extubação. Nestes recém-nascidos o AFE parece ser seguro e benéfico a curto prazo.

Alterações do pH, da P O2 e da P CO2 arteriais e da concentração de lactato sangüíneo de cavalos da raça Árabe durante exercício em esteira de alta velocidade

Avaliaram-se as alterações do pH, da P O2 e da P CO2 do sangue arterial e da concentração de lactato sangüíneo de 11 cavalos adultos da raça Árabe, submetidos a exercício progressivo em esteira de alta velocidade. Antes do exercício, no intervalo dos 15 segundos finais de cada mudança de velocidade e aos 1, 3 e 5 minutos após o término do exercício foram coletadas amostras de sangue arterial e venoso para a mensuração dos gases sangüíneos e da concentração de lactato. O exercício resultou em diminuição do pH, da pressão parcial de O2 (P O2) e da pressão parcial de CO2 (P CO2). A concentração de lactato sangüíneo elevou-se exponencialmente a partir da velocidade de 8,0m/s até os momentos após término do exercício.