The Techialoyan Codices and their Number

In this article, it is proposed a brief revision of the number of Techialoyan codices. To do this, the text starts with a definition of the corpus, that it is composed of manuscripts done between the half of the 17th century and beginning of the next. Around these documents there are many doubts and it remains much to do. In this case, we present a review around the lists and catalogues to see the changes of the group through time. Our conclusion is that is necessary recount the corpus, because there are fragmented documents and others are unknowns or copies. Finally, we show our count, that leaves the number less than fifty-six documents catalogued until today.

'Producing the Scene': the Evolution of the Director in British Theatre 1900-50

The role of the director as the individual who harnesses and controls resources to shape the theatrical product to a personal artistic vision, begins to emerge in British theatre in the early years of the twentieth century. What distinguishes the role from that of the actor-manager who had led the profession since the seventeenth century, is that it separates off from the leading actor in performance. The power and authority of the director (or producer as he or she tended to be known initially) is exercised in the pre-performance stage. In the first half of the century there were still old-style actor-managers—Donald Wolfit is a prime example—and many of the new directors had begun their careers as actors and some continued to act their in their own productions. But the perception of the function of the director began to change radically. In part this was linked to the early attempts to create a new model of producing company or ‘repertory’ theatre which required a different set of administrative as well as artistic skills to tackle the challenge of a short-run system of multiple play production. This became especially important in the developing network of regional repertory theatres which were established as autonomous, locally-specific institutions predicated on policies opposed to the dominant commercial ethos. The best-known of the early directors, most notably H.Granville Barker, confined their radical experiments to short-lived metropolitan experiments, or, as in the case of Terence Gray and J.B.Fagan, operated within the influential Oxbridge nexus. Others such as H.K.Ayliff, Herbert Prentice, William Armstrong and William Bridges-Adams remain comparatively obscure because of their long-term ‘provincial’ connections or, as in the case of Nugent Monck and Edy Craig because their creativity was largely channelled through amateur actors. This chapter will explore the evolving role of the director as both a necessary functionary and an artistic innovator within the changing structures of British theatre.

The denarius of L. Vinicius (RRC 436). The complexities of political relations just before the beginning of the Second Civil War.

L. Vinicius issue a coin series in the late fifties of the first century BC, shortly before the outbreak of war between Julio Caesar (cos. I 59 BC) and the Senate, led by Cn. Pompey Magnus (cos. I 70 BC), that tries, by its iconography, seek harmony bet-ween the two leaders.

A visual and contextual comparative study of the work of Picasso and Chanel towards an understanding of the overlaps between Modern Art and Fashion.

From the beginning of the twentieth century, ``Modernism`` impacted and transformed art and clothing. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle ``Coco`` Chanel were two of the most central characters in Modernism working simultaneously in their disciplines. Picasso`s innovations, particularly in abstract art and Chanel`s fashion designs, that dramatically departed from the previous corseted and highly deco-rative styles, were so significant that they have left an influence on contemporary art and fashion. This study will compare their visual works and documented evidence of their motivations, within the context of their cultural backgrounds, to reveal meaning in the occurrences of overlaps. This approach has ex-amined the historical, cultural background of the artist and designer`s environment from different per-spectives, adding to previous research in this area. Through this research, outcomes of the analysis have shown similarities and divergences in the wider genres of art and fashion and the practice of the artist and fashion designer. The reference list to this text, used in the survey, gives a comprehensive overview of pertinent publications disseminating Picasso and Chanel`s visual works, oral perspectives and cultural impact.

King of the Renaissance: Art and Politics at the Neapolitan Court of Ferrante I, 1458-1494

In the second half of the fifteenth century, King Ferrante I of Naples (r. 1458-1494) dominated the political and cultural life of the Mediterranean world. His court was home to artists, writers, musicians, and ambassadors from England to Egypt and everywhere in between. Yet, despite its historical importance, Ferrante’s court has been neglected in the scholarship. This dissertation provides a long-overdue analysis of Ferrante’s artistic patronage and attempts to explicate the king’s specific role in the process of art production at the Neapolitan court, as well as the experiences of artists employed therein. By situating Ferrante and the material culture of his court within the broader discourse of Early Modern art history for the first time, my project broadens our understanding of the function of art in Early Modern Europe. I demonstrate that, contrary to traditional assumptions, King Ferrante was a sophisticated patron of the visual arts whose political circumstances and shifting alliances were the most influential factors contributing to his artistic patronage. Unlike his father, Alfonso the Magnanimous, whose court was dominated by artists and courtiers from Spain, France, and elsewhere, Ferrante differentiated himself as a truly Neapolitan king. Yet Ferrante’s court was by no means provincial. His residence, the Castel Nuovo in Naples, became the physical embodiment of his commercial and political network, revealing the accretion of local and foreign visual vocabularies that characterizes Neapolitan visual culture.

Bioinformatics analysis of the Pedobacter sp. NL19 genome

The last decades of the 20th century defined the genetic engineering advent, climaxing in the development of techniques, such as PCR and Sanger sequencing. This, permitted the appearance of new techniques to sequencing whole genomes, identified as next-generation sequencing. One of the many applications of these techniques is the in silico search for new secondary metabolites, synthesized by microorganisms exhibiting antimicrobial properties. The peptide antibiotics compounds can be classified in two classes, according to their biosynthesis, in ribosomal or nonribosomal peptides. Lanthipeptides are the most studied ribosomal peptides and are characterized by the presence of lanthionine and methylanthionine that result from posttranslational modifications. Lanthipeptides are divided in four classes, depending on their biosynthetic machinery. In class I, a LanB enzyme dehydrate serine and threonine residues in the C-terminus precursor peptide. Then, these residues undergo a cyclization step performed by a LanC enzyme, forming the lanthionine rings. The cleavage and the transport of the peptide is achieved by the LanP and LanT enzymes, respectively. Although, in class II only one enzyme, LanM, is responsible for the dehydration and cyclization steps and also only one enzyme performs the cleavage and transport, LanT. Pedobacter sp. NL19 is a Gram-negative bacterium, isolated from sludge of an abandon uranium mine, in Viseu (Portugal). Antibacterial activity in vitro was detected against several Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. Sequencing and in silico analysis of NL19 genome revealed the presence of 21 biosynthetic clusters for secondary metabolites, including nonribosomal and ribosomal peptides biosynthetic clusters. Four lanthipeptides clusters were predicted, comprising the precursor peptides, the modifying enzymes (LanB and LanC), and also a bifunctional LanT. This result revealed the hybrid nature of the clusters, comprising characteristics from two distinct classes, which are poorly described in literature. The phylogenetic analysis of their enzymes showed that they clustered within the bacteroidetes clade. Furthermore, hybrid gene clusters were also found in other species of this phylum, revealing that it is a common characteristic in this group. Finally, the analysis of NL19 colonies by MALDI-TOF MS allowed the identification of a 3180 Da mass that corresponds to the predicted mass of a lanthipeptide encoded in one of the clusters. However, this result is not fully conclusive and further experiments are needed to understand the full potential of the compounds encoded in this type of clusters. In conclusion, it was determined that NL19 strain has the potential to produce diverse secondary metabolites, including lanthipeptides that were not functionally characterized so far.

An investigation of the clinical utility of preoperative cardiopulmonary exercise testing in patients undergoing major pancreatic surgery

Pancreaticoduodenectomy with or without adjuvant chemotherapy remains the only modality of possible cure in patients with cancer involving the head of the pancreas and the periampullary region. While mortality rates after pancreaticoduodenectomy have improved considerably over the course of the last century, morbidity remains high. Patient selection is of paramount importance in ensuring that major surgery is offered to individuals who will most benefit from a pancreaticoduodenectomy. Moreover, identifying preoperative risk factors provides potential targets for prehabilitation and optimisation of the patient's physiology before undertaking surgery. In addition to this, early identification of patients who are likely to develop postoperative complications allows for better allocation of critical care resources and more aggressive management high risk patients. Cardiopulmonary exercise testing is becoming an increasingly popular tool in the preoperative risk assessment of the surgical patient. However, very little work has been done to investigate the role of cardiopulmonary exercise testing in predicting complications after pancreaticoduodenectomy. The impact of jaundice, systemic inflammation and other preoperative clinicopathological characteristics on cardiopulmonary exercise physiology has not been studied in detail before in this cohort of patients. The overall aim of the thesis was to examine the relationships between preoperative clinico-pathological characteristics including cardiopulmonary exercise physiology, obstructive jaundice, body composition and systemic inflammation and complications and the post-surgical systemic inflammatory response in patients undergoing pancreaticoduodenectomy. Chapter 1 reviews the existing literature on preoperative cardiopulmonary exercise testing, the impact of obstructive jaundice, perioperative systemic inflammation and the importance of body composition in determining outcomes in patients undergoing major surgery with particular reference to pancreatic surgery. Chapter 2 reports on the role of cardiopulmonary exercise testing in predicting postoperative complications after pancreaticoduodenectomy. The results demonstrate that patients with V˙O2AT less than 10 ml/kg/min are more likely to develop a postoperative pancreatic fistula, stay longer in hospital and less likely to receive adjuvant therapy. These results emphasise the importance of aerobic fitness to recover from the operative stress of major surgery without significant morbidity. Cardiopulmonary exercise testing may prove useful in selecting patients for intensive prehabilitation programmes as well as for other optimisation measures to prepare them for major surgery. Chapter 3 evaluates the relationship between cardiopulmonary exercise physiology and other clinicopathological characteristics of the patient. A detailed analysis of cardiopulmonary exercise test parameters in jaundiced versus non-jaundiced patients demonstrates that obstructive jaundice does not impair cardiopulmonary exercise physiology. This further supports emerging evidence in contemporary literature that jaundiced patients can proceed directly to surgery without preoperative biliary drainage. The results of this study also show an interesting inverse relationship between body mass index and anaerobic threshold which is analysed in more detail in Chapter 4. Chapter 4 examines the relationship between preoperative cardiopulmonary exercise physiology and body composition in depth. All parameters measured at cardiopulmonary exercise test are compared against body composition and body mass index. The results of this chapter report that the current method of reporting V˙O2, both at peak exercise and anaerobic threshold, is biased against obese subjects and advises caution in the interpretation of cardiopulmonary exercise test results in patients with a high BMI. This is particularly important as current evidence in literature suggests that postoperative outcomes in obese subjects are comparable to non-obese subjects while cardiopulmonary exercise test results are also abnormally low in this very same cohort of patients. Chapter 5 analyses the relationship between preoperative clinico-pathological characteristics including systemic inflammation and the magnitude of the postoperative systemic inflammatory response. Obstructive jaundice appears to have an immunosuppressive effect while elevated preoperative CRP and hypoalbuminemia appear to have opposite effects with hypoalbuminemia resulting in a lower response while elevated CRP in the absence of hypoalbuminemia resulted in a greater postoperative systemic inflammatory response. Chapter 6 evaluates the role of the early postoperative systemic inflammatory response in predicting complications after pancreaticoduodenectomy and aims to establish clinically relevant thresholds for C-Reactive Protein for the prediction of complications. The results of this chapter demonstrate that CRP levels as early as the second postoperative day are associated with complications. While post-operative CRP was useful in the prediction of infective complications, this was the case only in patients who did not develop a post-operative pancreatic fistula. The predictive ability of inflammatory markers for infectious complications was blunted in patients with a pancreatic fistula. Chapter 7 summarises the findings of this thesis, their place in current literature and future directions. The results of this thesis add to the current knowledge regarding the complex pathophysiological abnormalities in patients undergoing pancreaticoduodenectomy, with specific emphasis on the interaction between cardiopulmonary exercise physiology, obstructive jaundice, systemic inflammation and postoperative outcomes. The work presented in this thesis lays the foundations for further studies aimed at improving outcomes after pancreaticoduodenectomy through the development of individualised, goal-directed therapies that are initiated well before this morbid yet necessary operation is performed.

Decorative tiles between Brazil and Europe: the case of the Santa Catharina factory

Abstract It was in the first decade of the twentieth century that the first white china Factory was implemented in Brazil. Fruit of the association between the Sao Paulo Aristocracy and the Italian Romeo Ranzini, this factory was responsible for producing significant amounts of crockery in industrial moulds in sao Paulo, Brazil. It was also the first factory to produce decorative tiles that would be part of the architecture of the public buildings built between 1919 and 1922 in Commemoration of the Centennial of the Brazilian Independence. Known as The Santa Catharina Factory, this factory was inaugurated in 1913 with the participation of Italian immigrants and German technologies for the development of its first manufacturing activities. As a result of a number of economic, political and social matters that started in the previous century in the city of Sao Paulo, The Santa Catharina factory played an important role in industrial development as regards the production of national white china and was used as a model for the construction of new ceramic factories in Sao Paulo. After acquired by Matarazzo industries in 1927, had closed their activities in 1937. This research is based on the identification and analysis of the first tiles produced in Brazil by the Santa Catharina Factory, which were part of the architectural decorations of the buildings built in Sao Paulo to the celebration of the Centennial of the Brazilian Independence. Designed by Victor Dubugras, The Largo da Memoria (located in the city of Sao Paulo) and the buildings located in the "Paths of the Sea" road marked the beginning of Brazilian industrialization and the emergence of Neocolonial Movement in architecture of Sao Paulo. Studies of the first national patterns of decorative tiles approach a subject poorly researched by experts in tiled studies in Brazil, although in this case these tiles have represented not only an important milestone in the national industrialization, but also have demarcated the significant changes in architectural and decorative practices in the country in the early twentieth century; RESUMÈ: C'est durant la premiere decennie du XXe siecle que la premiere usine de porcelaine blanche fut implant& au Bresil. Elle fut le fruit de l'association entre l'aristocratie de Sao Paulo et l'italien Romeo Ranzini. L'usine produisait une quantite signifiante de porcelaine sur le territoire industriel de Sao Paulo. Ce fut egalement la premiere usine a produire des carreaux decoratifs qui sont aujourd'hui visibles dans l'architecture des batiments publics construit entre 1919 et 1922, pour la commemoration du centenaire de l'independance bresilienne. Connue sous le nom de Santa Catharina, cette usine fut inaugure en 1912. Elle fut construite par des émigrés Italiens, et utilisa pour la technologie allemande pour so production. En tant que resultat d'un certain nombre de questions economiques, politiques et sociales qui ont &butes durant le siecle precedent dans la ville de Sao Paulo, l'usine Santa Catharina a joue un role important dans le developpement industriel de la production de porcelaine blanche nationale et a ete utilise comme modele pour la construction de nouvelles usines de ceramique a Sao Paulo. Apres avoir ete achete par l'industrie Matarazzo en 1927, elle cessa ses activites en 1937. Cette recherche est basee sur l'identification et l'analyse des premiers carreaux decoratifs fabriques au Bresil par l'usine Santa Catharina, qui etait une partie des decorations architecturales des batiments construits a Sao Paulo pour la celebration du centenaire de l'Independance Bresilienne. Connue par Victor Dubugras, le "Largo da Memoria" (situe dans la ville de Sao Paulo), et les batiments situes sur le "Path of the Sea", ont marque le debut de l'industrialisation bresilienne et l'emergence d'un mouvement neocolonialiste dans l'architecture de Sao Paolo. L'etude des premiers modeles nationaux de carreaux decoratifs est un sujet peut etudie par les experts bresiliens, bien qu'ils furent un jalon importante pour l'industrialisation nationale. Its ont egalement entrains des changements importants dans les pratiques architecturales, et decoratives au sein du pays au XXe siecle. Mots-cles: Ceramique - carreaux decoratifs — L'usine Santa Catharina, Bresil - Production de carreaux; RIASSUNTO: Nel primo decennio del Novecento vide luce la prima fabbrica di ceramica di porcellana in Brasile. Frutto dell'associazione tra l'aristocrazia Paulista e l'italiano Romeo Ranzini, questa fabbrica fu responsabile della produzione di notevoli quantita di ceramica di porcellana mediante stampi industriali nella citta di San Paolo, Brasile. Fu anche la prima fabbrica a produrre azulejos che avrebbero poi fatto parte dell'architettura degli edifici pubblici costruiti tra it 1919 ed it 1922, per la commemorazione del Centenario dell'indipendenza Brasiliana. Conosciuta come Fabbrica di Santa Catharina, questa fu inaugurata nel 1913, con la partecipazione di immigrati italiani e con l'impiego di tecnologie tedesche per lo sviluppo delle sue prime attivita produttive. Risultato di una serie di cambiamenti economici, politici e sociali, che ebbero inizio nel secolo precedente nella citta di San Paolo, la Fabbrica di Santa Catharina svolse un ruolo importante nello sviluppo industriale per quanto riguarda la produzione di ceramica di porcellana nazionale e fu adottata come modello per la costruzione di nuove fabbriche a San Paolo. Successivamente, fu acquisita dalle industrie Matarazzo nel 1927, vedendo poi chiudersi le sue attivita nel 1937. Questa ricerca si basa sull'identificazione e l'analisi dei primi azulejos prodotti in Brasile dalla Fabbrica di Santa Catharina che fecero parte delle decorazioni architettoniche degli edifici costruiti a San Paolo per la commemorazione del Centenario dell'indipendenza Brasiliana. Progettati da Victor Dubugras, it Largo da Mem(Via (situato nella citta di San Paolo) e gli edifici che si trovano nei Caminhos do Mar marcarono l'inizio dell'industrializzazione brasiliana e la nascita del Movimento Neocolonial dell'architettura Paulista. Gli studi dei primi modelli di azulejos nazionali affrontano un argomento poco studiato dagli esperti in azulejaria in Brasile, nonostante rappresentino un importante avvenimento dell'industrializzazione nazionale, ma segnano anche i cambiamenti di significative pratiche architettoniche e decorative nel Paese nel primo Novecento. Parole chiave: Ceramica - porcellana - La fabbrica di Santa Catharina - Produzione di ceramica .

Forms of the Postmodern Historical Novel : Christoph Ransmayr, Daniel Kehlmann, Wolfgang Hildesheimer

L’émergence du postmodernisme aux Etats-unis, mouvement esthétique rejetant les dogmes modernistes, date des années 1960. En s’imposant, durant les dernières décennies du 20ème siècle, comme le paradigme esthétique de l’architecture, des arts et de la littérature, le postmodernisme a également créé les conditions propres à une renaissance du roman historique. Cependant, la fiction historique postmoderne constitue maintenant une nouvelle forme du genre basée sur la parodie, l’ironie et le scepticisme envers les discours dominants. Cette nouvelle forme ne se limite plus à la présentation des récits dans un cadre historique réaliste. Elle remet plutôt en question la validité et par conséquent la nature même du discours historique, problématisant et mettant ainsi à l’avant le processus d’interprétation et de reconstruction du passé. Dans cette optique, la fiction historique contemporaine reflète les débats actuels sur les formes de l’historiographie, débats lancés par Hayden White. Dans les années 1980, la fiction historique a de nouveau fleuri dans l'espace culturel allemand tout comme ailleurs. Le présent mémoire analyse des formes postmodernes de la fiction historique en se basant sur trois romans historiques de langue allemande parus entre 1981 et 2005: Die Schrecken des Eises und der Finsternis de Christoph Ransmayr, Die Vermessung der Welt de Daniel Kehlmann et Marbot : Eine Biographie de Wolfgang Hildesheimer. L’analyse s'appuie sur divers modèles de la fiction postmoderne, en particulier sur le schéma de catégorisation du roman historique élaboré par Ansgar Nünning. Le mémoire montre dans quelle mesure ces romans appliquent des moyens stylistiques typiques pour le postmodernisme et portent un regard critique ou comique sur l’histoire et la culture allemande et autrichienne.

Forms of the Postmodern Historical Novel : Christoph Ransmayr, Daniel Kehlmann, Wolfgang Hildesheimer

L’émergence du postmodernisme aux Etats-unis, mouvement esthétique rejetant les dogmes modernistes, date des années 1960. En s’imposant, durant les dernières décennies du 20ème siècle, comme le paradigme esthétique de l’architecture, des arts et de la littérature, le postmodernisme a également créé les conditions propres à une renaissance du roman historique. Cependant, la fiction historique postmoderne constitue maintenant une nouvelle forme du genre basée sur la parodie, l’ironie et le scepticisme envers les discours dominants. Cette nouvelle forme ne se limite plus à la présentation des récits dans un cadre historique réaliste. Elle remet plutôt en question la validité et par conséquent la nature même du discours historique, problématisant et mettant ainsi à l’avant le processus d’interprétation et de reconstruction du passé. Dans cette optique, la fiction historique contemporaine reflète les débats actuels sur les formes de l’historiographie, débats lancés par Hayden White. Dans les années 1980, la fiction historique a de nouveau fleuri dans l'espace culturel allemand tout comme ailleurs. Le présent mémoire analyse des formes postmodernes de la fiction historique en se basant sur trois romans historiques de langue allemande parus entre 1981 et 2005: Die Schrecken des Eises und der Finsternis de Christoph Ransmayr, Die Vermessung der Welt de Daniel Kehlmann et Marbot : Eine Biographie de Wolfgang Hildesheimer. L’analyse s'appuie sur divers modèles de la fiction postmoderne, en particulier sur le schéma de catégorisation du roman historique élaboré par Ansgar Nünning. Le mémoire montre dans quelle mesure ces romans appliquent des moyens stylistiques typiques pour le postmodernisme et portent un regard critique ou comique sur l’histoire et la culture allemande et autrichienne.

PDF Language of the Journal

On the 15th of April, 1897, a 19 year-old European resident of Baghdad, named Alexander Richard Svoboda, set out on a long journey to Europe by caravan, boat and train. From a large and influential family of merchants, artists, and explorers settled in Ottoman Iraq since the end of the 18th century, Alexander traveled in the company of his parents and a departing British diplomat accompanied by his retinue. They followed a circuitous route through the Middle East to Cairo and thence to Europe on a three and a half month journey which Alexander described day-by-day in a journal written in the Iraqi Arabic of his time.

DOC X Language Of the Journal

On the 15th of April, 1897, a 19 year-old European resident of Baghdad, named Alexander Richard Svoboda, set out on a long journey to Europe by caravan, boat and train. From a large and influential family of merchants, artists, and explorers settled in Ottoman Iraq since the end of the 18th century, Alexander traveled in the company of his parents and a departing British diplomat accompanied by his retinue. They followed a circuitous route through the Middle East to Cairo and thence to Europe on a three and a half month journey which Alexander described day-by-day in a journal written in the Iraqi Arabic of his time.

Fringe Types and KOS Systematics: Examining the Limits of the Population Perspective of Knowledge Organization Systems

We find ourselves, after the close of the twentieth century, looking back at a mass of responses to the knowledge organization problem. Many institutions, such as the Dewey Decimal Classification (Furner, 2007), have grown up to address it. Increasingly, many diverse discourses are appropriating the problem and crafting a wide variety of responses. This includes many artistic interpretations of the act and products of knowledge organization. These surface as responses to the expressive power or limits of the Library and Information Studies institutions (e.g., DDC) and their often primarily utilitarian gaze.One way to make sense of this diversity is to approach the study from a descriptive stance, inventorying the population of types of KOS. This population perspective approaches the phenomenon of types and boundaries of Knowledge Organization Systems (KOS) as one that develops out of particular discourses, for particular purposes. For example, both DDC and Martianus Capella, a 5th Century encyclopedist, are KOS in this worldview. Both are part of the population of KOS. Approaching the study of KOS from the population perspective allows the researcher a systematic look at the diversity emergent at the constellation of different factors of design and implementation. However, it is not enough to render a model of core types, but we have to also consider the borders of KOS. Fringe types of KOS inform research, specifically to the basic principles of design and implementation used by others outside of the scholarly and professional discourse of Library and Information Studies.Four examples of fringe types of KOS are presented in this paper. Applying a rubric developed in previous papers, our aim here is to show how the conceptual anatomy of these fringe types relates to more established KOS, thereby laying bare the definitions of domain, purpose, structure, and practice. Fringe types, like Beghtol’s examples (2003), are drawn from areas outside of Library and Information Studies proper, and reflect the reinvention of structures to fit particular purposes in particular domains. The four fringe types discussed in this paper are (1) Roland Barthes’ text S/Z which “indexes” a text of an essay with particular “codes” that are meant to expose the literary rhythm of the work; (2) Mary Daly’s Wickedary, a reference work crafted for radical liberation theology – and specifically designed to remove patriarchy from the language used by what the author calls “wild women”; (3) Luigi Serafini’s Codex Seraphinianus a work of book art that plays on the trope of universal encyclopedia and back-of- the book index; and (4) Martinaus Capella – and his Marriage of Mercury and Philology, a fifth century encyclopedia. We compared these using previous analytic taxonomies (Wright, 2008; Tennis, 2006; Tudhope, 2006, Soergel, 2001, Hodge, 2000).

The influence of British rule on elite Indian menswear: the birth of the Sherwani

‘The Influence of British Rule on Elite Indian Menswear: The Birth of the Sherwani’ is a study of the influence of politics on fashion and the resulting development of new garments. This research is designed to demonstrate the effect on elite Indian menswear of the two centuries of British rule in India. It is an effort to understand how the flowing garments worn by elite Indian men in the 18th century gradually became more tailored and fitted with the passage of time. The study uses multiple sources to bring to light lesser known facts about Indian menswear, the evolution of different garments and especially of the sherwani. The sherwani is a knee-length upper garment worn by South-Asian men, and is considered to be India’s traditional menswear. My study highlights the factors responsible for the birth of the sherwani and dispels the myth that it was a garment worn by the Mughals. Simultaneously, this study examines the concept and value of ‘tradition’ in cultures. It scrutinises the reasons for the sherwani being labelled as a traditional Indian garment associated with the Mughal era, when in fact it was born towards the end of the 19th century. The study also analyses the role of the sherwani as a garment of distinction in pre- and post-independence India.

Aineellista ja aineetonta turvaa : Ruokakunnat, ekologis-taloudelliset resurssit ja kontaktinmuodostus Valkealassa 1630 1750

Material and immaterial security. Households, ecological and economic resources and formation of contacts in Valkeala parish from the 1630s to the 1750s. The geographical area of the thesis, Valkeala parish in the region of Kymenlaakso, is a very interesting area owing to its diversity, both in terms of natural setting and economic and cultural structure. The study begins by outlining the ecological and economic features of Valkeala and by analysing household structures. The main focus of the research lies in the contacts of the households with the outside world. The following types of contacts are chosen as indicators of the interaction: trade and credit relations, guarantees, co-operation, marriages and godparentage. The main theme of the contact analysis is to observe the significance of three factors, namely geographical extent, affluence level and kinship, to the formation of contacts. It is also essential to chart the interdependencies between ecological and economic resources, changes in the structure of households and the formation of contacts during the period studied. The time between the 1630s and the 1750s was characterized by wars, crop losses and population changes, which had an effect on the economic framework and on the structural variation of households and contact fields. In the 17th and 18th centuries Valkeala could be divided, economically, into two sections according to the predominant cultivation technique. The western area formed the field area and the eastern and northern villages the swidden area. Multiple family households were dominant in the latter part of the 17th century, and for most of the study period, the majority of people lived in the more complex households rather than in simple families. Economic resources had only a moderate impact on the structure of contacts. There was a clear connection between bigger household size and the extent and intensity of contacts. The jurisdictional boundary that ran across Valkeala from the northwest to the southeast and divided the parish into two areas influenced the formation of contacts more than the parish boundaries. Support and security were offered largely by the primary contacts with one s immediate family, neighbours and friends. Economic support was channelled from the wealthier to the less well off by credits. Cross-marriages, cross-godparentage and marital networks could be seen as manifestations of an aim towards stability and the joining of resources. It was essential for households both to secure the workforce needed for a minimum level of subsistence and to ensure the continuation of the family line. These goals could best be reached by complex households that could adapt to the prevailing circumstances and also had wider and more multi-layered contacts offering material and immaterial security.