A low-cost digital image correlation technique for characterising the shear deformation of fabrics for draping studies

A novel digital image correlation (DIC) technique has been developed to track changes in textile yarn orientations during shear characterisation experiments, requiring only low-cost digital imaging equipment. Fabric shear angles and effective yarn strains are calculated and visualised using this new DIC technique for bias extension testing of an aerospace grade, carbon-fibre reinforcement material with a plain weave architecture. The DIC results are validated by direct measurement, and the use of a wide bias extension sample is evaluated against a more commonly used narrow sample. Wide samples exhibit a shear angle range 25% greater than narrow samples and peak loads which are 10 times higher. This is primarily due to excessive yarn slippage in the narrow samples; hence, the wide sample configuration is recommended for characterisation of shear properties which are required for accurate modelling of textile draping.

Spatial and temporal regulation of the pesticide dieldrin within industrial catchments

The river catchments of south Yorkshire support a very high density of wool processing industries. Dieldrin was once used as a moth proofing agent, as a sheep dip, and as a pesticide to protect wool fleeces during storage and transport, all of which caused pollution of these catchments due to textile processing. Weekly sampling of four of these rivers revealed two classes of dieldrin contamination: the Aire and Calder (the rivers which support very high concentrations of wool processing industries) had higher concentrations (averaging ~3 ng/l) than the Don and Trent (~1 ng/l). The average flux of dieldrin from these rivers into the Humber estuary was 9.8 g/day, with the Aire (of which the Calder is a tributary) and the Trent contributing almost equally, with a smaller contribution from the Don. The Trent has the highest average flow, explaining its large contribution to dieldrin flux. Less detailed sampling of rivers from the north Humber catchment which drain predominantly rural areas had dieldrin concentrations similar to the heavily industrialized southern catchment rivers. This suggests that dieldrin from agronomic and domestic usage may be more persistent than the pollution caused by textile processing industries. Evidence is presented to suggest that the principle dieldrin sources to the Humber catchments are sewage treatment plants, and that the dieldrin sources are in rapid equilibrium with the water column. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science B.V.

‘Reading Aran knitting: stitches, text andinterpretation’

The densely textured surfaces of Aran knitting seem to invite interpretation. They have been ‘read’ as identity documents, family trees, references to natural and spiritual phenomena, or even maps. This paper traces the search for meaning in Aran knitting, examining how these stitch patterns have been ‘read’ in the contexts of tourism, fine art and fashion. As Jo Turney (2013:55) argues, the idea of knitted textiles as communicative media in non-literate societies ‘consigns the garments to a preindustrial era of more rural and simple times’, situating them in an imagined state of ‘stasis’. Thus the ways in which Aran stitches are ‘read’ sometimes obscure the processes through which they are ‘written’, whether in terms of individual authorship and creativity, or in terms of their manufacture. Regardless of the historical veracity of claims that particular Aran stitch patterns index features of the social, natural or spiritual worlds, analysing the ways they have been ‘read’ in the context of comparable textile traditions, other crafts which have taken on ‘heritage’ souvenir status, and Irish national identity, reveals how Aran knitting has performed broader communicative functions (see Sonja Andrew 2008), which continue to be subverted and elaborated by fine artists, and translated into couture and mass market fashion products.

The Aran jumper: Crafting a Transatlantic Heritage

The garment we now recognise as the Aran jumper emerged as an international symbol of Ireland from the twin twentieth century transatlantic flows of migration and tourism. Its power as a heritage object derives from: 1) the myth commonly associated with the object, in which the corpse of a drowned fisherman is identified and claimed by his family due to the stitch patterns of his jumper (Pádraig Ó Síochain 1962; Annette Lynch and Mitchell Strauss 2014); 2) the meanings attached to those stitch patterns, which have been read, for example, as genealogical records, representations of the natural landscape and references to Christian and pre-Christian ‘Celtic’ religion (Heinz Kiewe 1967; Catherine Nash 1996); and 3) booming popular interest in textile heritage on both sides of the Atlantic, fed by the reframing of domestic crafts such as knitting as privileged leisure pursuits (Rachel Maines 2009; Jo Turney 2009). The myth of the drowned fisherman plays into transatlantic migration narratives of loss and reclamation, promising a shared heritage that needs only to be decoded. The idea of the garment’s surface acting as text (or map) situates it within a preliterate idyll of romantic primitivism, while obscuring the circumstances of its manufacture. The contemporary resurgence in home textile production as recreation, mediated through transnational online networks, creates new markets for heritage textile products while attracting critical attention to the processes through which such objects, and mythologies, are produced. The Aran jumper’s associations with kinship, domesticity and national character make it a powerful tool in the promotion of ancestral (or genealogical) tourism, through marketing efforts such as The Gathering 2013. Nash’s (2010; 2014) work demonstrates the potential for such touristic encounters to disrupt and enrich public conceptions of heritage, belonging and relatedness. While the Aran jumper has been used to commodify a simplistic sense of mutuality between Ireland and north America, it carries complex transatlantic messages in both directions.

Simultaneous biosorption of methylene blue and trivalent chromium onto olive stone

In this work, olive stone (OS) was utilized to investigate its capacity as biosorbent for methylene blue (MB) and Cr(III), which are usually present in textile industry effluents. Equilibrium and kinetic experiments were performed in batch experiments. The biosorption process followed pseudo-second-order kinetics. The equilibrium data were fitted with several models, but Langmuir and Sips models best reproduced the experimental results. Maximum biosorption capacities were 3.296 mg/g (0.0116 mmol/g) and 4.990 mg/g (0.0960 mmol/g) for MB and Cr(III), respectively. Several operation variables, such as
biosorbent mass, flow rate, and initial concentration on the removal of dye and metal, were evaluated in column system. The removal efficiency improved as OS mass increased and decreased when flow rate and initial concentration increased. Also, MB uptake was substantially decreased by increasing the initial concentration of Cr(III), ranging from 6.09 to 2.75 mg/g. These results show that the presence of Cr(III) significantly modifies the biosorption capacity of MB by the OS. These results suggest that OS is a potential low-cost food industry waste for textile industry wastewater treatment.

US Patent: Method of manufacture of a composite concrete article

A method of manufacturing a composite concrete article comprising forming a textile structure, removing material from regions of the textile structure to create voids in the textile structure and incorporating the textile structure into a body of wet uncured concrete such that the concrete flows into the voids created in the textile structure, embedding the textile structure into the concrete, whereby the textile structure defines at least a portion of a surface of the cured concrete article.

Street Space—North Street, Belfast

The Belfast city center is fractured, divided by motorways, parking lots, empty buildings, and big box stores. Its 19th-century heyday put it on the international map of textile production, which transformed and enriched its built structure. This tight architectural fabric was slowly destroyed in the 1940s by the Blitz, in the 1970s by road plans and “the troubles” and in the 1990s by large retail buildings. Few pedestrian streets traverse Belfast, and among them, most are recently-developed conduits for the passage of shoppers from one chain store to the next.Within this seemingly bleak urban landscape, there remain a few areas that offer a richer, more architecturally and socially diverse, more memory-laden conception of public space. Current redevelopment plans, however, threaten the mere existence of these few remaining historic streets in Belfast.This reality inspired the current project of one of the Masters in Architecture design units at Queen’s University Belfast. Our team (led by urban designer Michael Corr and myself) has been exploring North Street, one of the main arteries in Belfast City Center. Although North Street has a reputation for being run-down, derelict, and in need of redevelopment, it is one of the few intact 19th-century streets left in the area, and as such is worthy of study as an example of public space that is not strictly synonymous with commercial space.

Surviving the industrial city: the female poor and the workhouse in late nineteenth-century Belfast

In common with many British cities, but unlike the rest of Ireland, late nineteenth-century Belfast experienced rapid industrialization and physical expansion. Women formed a significant proportion of the city’s workforce, attracted by the employment opportunities represented in the burgeoning textile industry. Many of them were economically vulnerable, however, and could find themselves destitute for a number of reasons. This article sets Belfast’s Poor Law workhouse in the landscape of welfare in the city, exploring how its use reflected the development of the city and the ways in which the female poor engaged with it in order to survive.

Colagens têxteis: em busca de um design sustentável

Os desafios dos designers nos dias de hoje são inúmeros, sendo um deles o de desenvolver produtos que atendam ao mercado sem deixar de lado as preocupações com a sustentabilidade, seja ambiental, sócio-ética ou econômica. Assim sendo, a própria disputa para alcançar novos patamares de destaque no mercado também fez proliferar novas tecnologias de produção sustentável como um fator diferenciador nos dias de hoje que, para além de preservar a natureza, conquista uma larga faixa de clientes sensíveis a este tipo de preocupações. É objetivo deste trabalho a criação de produtos de design de moda e decoração e sua verificação enquanto design sustentável. Neste contexto, enquadra-se este trabalho que visa desenvolver produtos de moda e decoração realizados com a técnica da colagem têxtil, resultando assim, em produtos inovadores, únicos, intemporais e com design. A presente investigação desenvolveu-se em parceria com o Banco de Vestuário de Caxias do Sul, que forneceu dados para o estudo do setor têxtil e levantamento dos resíduos da indústria têxtil da região para caracterização do setor, além de disponibilizar os resíduos têxteis que serviram de base para a criação de produtos de moda e de decoração mais sustentáveis. Para a criação das superfícies têxteis coladas foram desenvolvidas amostras com testes de temperaturas e tempos para verificar a combinação que mais se adequa a cada tipo de matéria-prima. Além de fazer uso destes resíduos, a investigação contou com o auxílio de mão-de-obra de artesãs que, por sua vez, foram capacitadas com a técnica da colagem têxtil através de dois workshops. Após esta etapa, para fazer a análise dos níveis de sustentabilidade dos produtos, utilizou-se o Sustainability Design Orienting Toolkit (SDO) que é um conjunto de ferramentas que visa a orientação dos designers no desenvolvimento de produtos em termos de sustentabilidade ambiental, sócio-ética e econômica.

Revival: The Aesthetics of Revival Subcultures and Re-enactment Groups Explored Through Fashion Image-making

This research aims, through performance, fashion photography, video making and the theatrical devices that accompany such practice, to explore the style of a contemporary, largely male, subcultural collective. The common term that joins these loosely bound groups is revival as they appear driven by an impulse to simulate and re-enact the dress, rites and rituals of British and American subcultures from a perceived golden era. The similarities with re-enactment societies are also explored and exploited to the end of developing new style- based aesthetics in male fashion image-making formed around an elaborate re- enactment of Spartacus and the Third Servile Wars. Examined through comparative visuals (revivalists / re-enactors) a common thread is found in the wearing of leather as a metaphor for resistance, style and a pupa-like second skin. Subsequent findings of this research suggest that the cuirass of popular culture emerges as the motorcycle jacket of both the sword and sandal epic and the historical re-enactor. Addressing extremes in narcissistic dress and behaviour amongst certain individuals within these older male communities, this study also questions parts of established theory on subcultural development within the field of cultural studies and postulates on a metaphorical dandy gene. Citing two leading practitioners in the field of fashion photography the work of both Richard Prince and Bruce Weber is viewed through the lens of the subcultural aesthete and conclusions drawn as to their role as agents provocateurs in the development of the fashion image with a revival based narrative. In addition the often used term retro is examined, categorised and granted its own genre within fashion image- making and defined as being separate from the practice element of this research. Reflecting a multi-disciplinary approach that engages the researcher as Bricoleur and participant observer this research operates in the reflexive realm and uses simulation as a key method of enquiry. The practice-led outcome of this investigation takes the form of a final research exhibition that takes the form of a substantial installation of photography, video, clothing and textile prints. Key terms: dandy gene, historical re-enactment groups, internal theatre, narcissism, narrative image-making, reflexive practice, revival as theatre, subcultures,

Piñatex, the design development of a new sustainable material

This is a research project by practice, which firstly develops a new material invention derived from natural fibres extracted from waste pineapple leaves; secondly it articulates the contemporary designer’s role in facilitating sustainable solutions through: Insights from my own material invention, PiñatexTM, which integrates the materiality of design with the immateriality of concepts and values Developing a visual model of mapping I began with these questions: ‘What are the challenges in seeking to make a new and sustainable material from the waste products of pineapple agriculture in the Philippines?’ and ‘How can a design practice link elements of materiality (artifacts) with immaterial elements (value systems) in order to improve sustainable social and economic development?’ Significant influences have been the work of Papanek1 (2003), Hawken2 (1999) and Abouleish3 (2008) and in particular the ethical business model initiated by McDonough and Braungart in Cradle to Cradle®4 (2002). My own research project is inspired by the Cradle to Cradle® model. It proposes the development of a new material, PiñatexTM which is derived from natural fibres extracted from waste pineapple leaves and could be used in a wide variety of products that are currently fabricated in leather or petroleum-based materials. The methods have comprised: Contextual reviews; case studies (SEKEM, Cradle to Cradle® and Gawad Kalinga); practical experiments in the field of natural fibres, chemistry, product development, manufacturing and prototyping, leading to an invention and a theoretical model of mapping. In addition, collaboration has taken place across scientific, technological, social, ecological, academic and business fields. The outcome is a new material based on the synchronicity between the pineapple fibres, polymers, resins and coatings specially formulated. The invention of the new material that I developed as a central part of this research by practice has a patent in the national phase (PCT/GB 2011/000802) and is in the first stages of manufacturing, commercial testing and further design input (Summer 2014). The contribution to knowledge is firstly the material, PiñatexTM, which exhibits certain key qualities, namely environmentally non-toxic, biodegradable, income-generating potential and marketability. This is alongside its intrinsic qualities as a textile product: aesthetic potential, durability and stability, which will make it suitable for the accessories, interiors and furnishing markets. The theoretical mapping system Upstream and Downstream forms a secondary contribution.

Technology-related strategies in labour-intensive industries from Southern European Regions: consequences for local employment

Tese dout., Economia, Universidade do Algarve, 2010

Logistics and the waste sector: a London case study

London has traditionally exported most of its waste to former mineral workings in surrounding counties for landfill. Many of these sites are being filled and opportunities for new sites are limited. Virtually all waste reprocessing and recycling facilities, with the exception of textile sorting and some facilities for glass and organic waste composting, are outside London. The Mayor of London's Vision for Waste in London is that by 2020, municipal waste should not compromise London’s future as a sustainable city. This will involve managing waste better, so that its impact on the local and global environment and on London communities, economy and health is minimised. The majority of waste and recyclable materials in London are currently collected and transported for recovery, disposal or reprocessing by road in large vehicles. Environmental costs include, adding to congestion, noise, energy usage, air pollution, and accidents. The Mayor is keen to increase recycling and reuse of waste materials in London, and to ensure that as more of London's waste is diverted away from landfill sites to recycling facilities. Several projects and initiatives have been established and these are reviewed in the paper.