The business of fashion in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries

Fashion is a complex social and cultural phenomenon with strong economic implications. Historical analysis reveals that the mechanisms of creating and spreading fashion have not remained constant, but have varied according to social structures, forms of producing and distributing apparel and social media, while the level of influence of fashion on society has increased in line with economic development. This special issue of Investigaciones de Historia Económica-Economic History Research is dedicated to fashion as an economic phenomenon in the contemporary period. The four articles which make it up show the plurality of the subject areas, sources and methodological approaches in the current research on this topic.

Intelligent Decision-Making System Frameworks for a Digital Plan of Work: A Theoretical Investigation for the Construction Industry

The construction industry is characterised by fragmentation and suffers from lack of collaboration, often adopting adversarial working practices to achieve deliverables. For the UK Government and construction industry, BIM is a game changer aiming to rectify this fragmentation and promote collaboration. However it has become clear that there is an essential need to have better controls and definitions of both data deliverables and data classification. Traditional methods and techniques for collating and inputting data have shown to be time consuming and provide little to improve or add value to the overall task of improving deliverables. Hence arose the need in the industry to develop a Digital Plan of Work (DPoW) toolkit that would aid the decision making process, providing the required control over the project workflows and data deliverables, and enabling better collaboration through transparency of need and delivery. The specification for the existing Digital Plan of Work (DPoW) was to be, an industry standard method of describing geometric, requirements and data deliveries at key stages of the project cycle, with the addition of a structured and standardised information classification system. However surveys and interviews conducted within this research indicate that the current DPoW resembles a digitised version of the pre-existing plans of work and does not push towards the data enriched decision-making abilities that advancements in technology now offer. A Digital Framework is not simply the digitisation of current or historic standard methods and procedures, it is a new intelligent driven digital system that uses new tools, processes, procedures and work flows to eradicate waste and increase efficiency. In addition to reporting on conducted surveys above, this research paper will present a theoretical investigation into usage of Intelligent Decision Support Systems within a digital plan of work framework. Furthermore this paper will present findings on the suitability to utilise advancements in intelligent decision-making system frameworks and Artificial Intelligence for a UK BIM Framework. This should form the foundations of decision-making for projects implemented at BIM level 2. The gap identified in this paper is that the current digital toolkit does not incorporate the intelligent characteristics available in other industries through advancements in technology and collation of vast amounts of data that a digital plan of work framework could have access to and begin to develop, learn and adapt for decision-making through the live interaction of project stakeholders.

A multimodal tablet-based interface for designing and reviewing 3D engineering models

The ability to view and interact with 3D models has been happening for a long time. However, vision-based 3D modeling has only seen limited success in applications, as it faces many technical challenges. Hand-held mobile devices have changed the way we interact with virtual reality environments. Their high mobility and technical features, such as inertial sensors, cameras and fast processors, are especially attractive for advancing the state of the art in virtual reality systems. Also, their ubiquity and fast Internet connection open a path to distributed and collaborative development. However, such path has not been fully explored in many domains. VR systems for real world engineering contexts are still difficult to use, especially when geographically dispersed engineering teams need to collaboratively visualize and review 3D CAD models. Another challenge is the ability to rendering these environments at the required interactive rates and with high fidelity. In this document it is presented a virtual reality system mobile for visualization, navigation and reviewing large scale 3D CAD models, held under the CEDAR (Collaborative Engineering Design and Review) project. It’s focused on interaction using different navigation modes. The system uses the mobile device's inertial sensors and camera to allow users to navigate through large scale models. IT professionals, architects, civil engineers and oil industry experts were involved in a qualitative assessment of the CEDAR system, in the form of direct user interaction with the prototypes and audio-recorded interviews about the prototypes. The lessons learned are valuable and are presented on this document. Subsequently it was prepared a quantitative study on the different navigation modes to analyze the best mode to use it in a given situation.

(Table 1) Carbon and isotopic composition of organic carbon in sediments from DSDP Leg 56 Holes

We have analyzed inorganic and organic carbons and determined the isotopic composition of both sedimentary organic carbon and inorganic carbon in carbonates contained in sediments recovered from Holes 434, 434A, 434B, 435, and 435A in the landward slope of Japan and from Hole 436 in the oceanic slope of the Japan Trench. Both inorganic and organic carbons were assayed at the P. P. Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, in the same sample, using the Knopp technique and measuring evolved CO2 gravimetrically. Each sample was analyzed twice in parallel. Measurements were of a ±0.05 per cent accuracy and a probability level of 0.95. Carbon isotopic analysis was carried out on a MI-1305 mass spectrometer at the I. M. Gubkin Institute of Petrochemical and Gas Industry and the results presented as dC13 values related to the PDB standard. The procedure for preparing samples for organic carbon isotopic analysis involved (1) drying damp sediments at 60°C; (2) treating samples, while heating, with 10 N HCl to remove carbonate carbon; and (3) evaporating surplus HCl at 60°C. The organic substance was turned to CO2 by oxidizing it in an oxygen atmosphere. To prepare samples for inorganic carbon isotopic analysis we decomposed the carbonates with orthophosphoric acid and refined the gas evolved. The dC13 measurements, including a full cycle of sample preparation, were of a ±0.5 per cent accuracy and a probability level of 0.95.

Post biological solids characterization and removal from pulp mill effluents /

Mode of access: Internet.

The dyeing of textile fabrics.

Includes index.

The dyeing of textile fabrics /

Includes index.

Industry-college relations.

Mode of access: Internet.

First principles of household management and cookery : a text-book for schools and families /

Includes sections on household cleaning and nutrition. Sample recipes: Beef stew, Oyster soup, Custard.

The manual of colours and dye wares : their properties, applications, valuation, impurities and sophistications : for the use of dyers, printers, drysalters, brokers, etc. /

Includes index.

A treatise on colour manufacture; a guide to the preparation, examination, and application of all the pigment colours in practical use,

Mode of access: Internet.

The dier's assistant in the art of dying wool and woollen goods : extracted from the philosophical and chymical works of those most eminent authors Ferguson, Dufay, Hellot, Geoffery, Colbert; and that reputable French dier, Mons. de Julienne : translated from the French : with additions and practical experiments /

First published in Leeds, 1778.

Colour-matching on textiles : a manual intended for the use of dyers, calico printers, and textile colour chemists /

Dyed cloth samples mounted on last 4 plates.

Recent trends in New Zealand's livestock industry /

Brings up to date and supersedes FAS-M-67, New Zealand's livestock and meat industry, and the U.S. producer, by G.J. Sims.