Estudo sobre tratamento térmico e mudança superficial da diatomita de Punaú/RN para o desenvolvimento de um auxiliar de filtração

The diatomite is a natural material that has numerous applications due to changes in their physical and chemical properties after processing. It is currently used in the industry as a sound insulator , filter aid and industrial load . The filter material shall be inert chemical composition , which will diatomite confers a high commercial value and performance not found in other particulate materials , for this application. The diatomite surface undergoes changes after thermal treatment at high temperatures , from 800ºC , with properties that enable its application in the food , beverage , pharmaceutical , cosmetic and textiles . In this work , we developed a study on thermal treatment on natural diatomite to adapt their properties to the application as a filter aid . The heat treatments were performed in an open oven at temperatures of 800ºC , 1000ºC and 1200ºC for a time of 24 hours. Reagents were added in the constitution of the samples analyzed. The reagents used were sodium carbonate (Na2CO3 ) and sodium chloride (NaCl) . The samples were characterized by x - ray diffraction , x -ray fluorescence , scanning electron microscopy , analysis and particle size distribution , specific surface area by the BET method , and pore volume by BJH method. The results showed a reduction in porosity of the material as well as a significant increase in specific surface area after heat treatment and the reactants in the ratio of 3 wt%. The diatomaceous earth , after heat treatment , undergone changes in its coloration , varying in white, cream and beige , which directly interferes with the speed of filtration materials process. All results obtained before and after heat treatment of the material with the values obtained for samples already used industrially , Brazilian and American industry , which were characterized using the same test methods performed with the samples in the study were compared and showed promising efficiency when material studied in the region of Punaú - RN , after processing , reagent addition and heat treatment, as an element in the composition of filter .

Síntese e imobilização de nanopartículas de ouro em fibras regeneradas via exaustão para potencial aplicação biomédica

The advancement of nanotechnology in the synthesis and characterisation of nanoparticles (NP's) has played an important role in the development of new technologies for various applications of nano-scale materials that have unique properties. The scientific development in the last decades in the field of nanotechnology has sought ceaselessly, the discovery of new materials for the most diverse applications, such as biomedical areas, chemical, optical, mechanical and textiles. The high bactericidal efficiency of metallic nanoparticles (Au and Ag), among other metals is well known, due to its ability to act in the DNA of fungi, viruses and bacteria, interrupting the process of cellular respiration, making them important means of study, in addition to its ability to protect UVA and UVB. The present work has as its main objective the implementation of an innovative method in the impregnation of nanoparticles of gold in textile substrate, functionalized with chitosan, by a dyeing process by exhaustion, with the control of temperature, time and velocity, thus obtaining microbial characteristics and UV protection. The exhausted substrates with colloidal solutions of NPAu's presented the colours, lilac and red (soybean knits) due to their surface plasmon peak around 520-540 nm. The NPAu's were synthesized chemically, using sodium citrate as a reducing agent and stabilizer. The material was previously cationised with chitosan, a natural polyelectrolyte, with the purpose of functionalising it to enhance the adsorption of colloid, at concentrations of 5, 7, 10 and 20 % of the bonding agent on the weight of the material (OWM). It was also observed, through an experimental design 23 , with 3 central points, which was the best process of exhaustion of the substrates, using the following factors: Time (min.), temperature (OC) and concentration of the colloid (%), having as a response to variable K/S (ABSORBÂNCIA/ Kubelka-Munk) of the fibres. Furthermore, it was evidenced as the best response, the following parameters: concentration 100%, temperature 70 ºC and time 30 minutes. The substrate with NPAu was characterised by XRD; thermal analysis using TGA; microstructural study using SEM/EDS and STEM, thus showing the NP on the surface of the substrate confirming the presence of the metal. The substrates showed higher washing fastness, antibacterial properties and UV radiation protection.

Tecnologia eletroquímica como tratamento alternativo de efluentes derivados da indústria têxtil e petroquímica

In this work, the treatment of wastewater from the textile industry, containing dyes as Yellow Novacron (YN), Red Remazol BR (RRB) and Blue Novacron CD (NB), and also, the treatment of wastewater from petrochemical industry (produced water) were investigated by anodic oxidation (OA) with platinum anodes supported on titanium (Ti/Pt) and boron-doped diamond (DDB). Definitely, one of the main parameters of this kind of treatment is the type of electrocatalytic material used, since the mechanisms and products of some anodic reactions depend on it. The OA of synthetic effluents containing with RRB, NB and YN were investigated in order to find the best conditions for the removal of color and organic content of the dye. According to the experimental results, the process of OA is suitable for decolorization of wastewaters containing these textile dyes due to electrocatalytic properties of DDB and Pt anodes. Removal of the organic load was more efficient at DDB, in all cases; where the dyes were degraded to aliphatic carboxylic acids at the end of the electrolysis. Energy requirements for the removal of color during OA of solutions of RRB, NB and YN depends mainly on the operating conditions, for example, RRB passes of 3.30 kWh m-3 at 20 mA cm-2 for 4.28 kWh m-3 at 60 mA cm-2 (pH = 1); 15.23 kWh m-3 at 20 mA cm-2 to 24.75 kWh m-3 at 60 mA cm-2 (pH 4.5); 10.80 kWh m-3 at 20 mA cm-2 to 31.5 kWh m-3 at 60 mA cm-2 (pH = 8) (estimated data for volume of treated effluent). On the other hand, in the study of OA of produced water effluent generated by petrochemical industry, galvanostatic electrolysis using DDB led to the complete removal of COD (98%), due to large amounts of hydroxyl radicals and peroxodisulphates generated from the oxidation of water and sulfates in solution, respectively. Thus, the rate of COD removal increases with increasing applied current density (15-60 mAcm-2 ). Moreover, at Pt electrode, approximately 50% removal of the organic load was achieved by applying from 15 to 30 mAcm-2 while 80% of COD removal was achieved for 60 mAcm-2 . Thus, the results obtained in the application of this technology were satisfactory depending on the electrocatalytic materials and operating conditions used for removal of organic load (petrochemical and textile effluents) as well as for the removal of color (in the case of textile effluents). Therefore, the applicability of electrochemical treatment can be considered as a new alternative like pretreatment or treatment of effluents derived from textiles and petrochemical industries.

Remoção de corantes utilizando tensoativos: extração por ponto de nuvem e floculação iônica

The textile sector is one of the main contributors to the generation of industrial wastewaters due to the use of large volumes of water, which has a high organic load content. In these, it is observed to the presence of dyes, surfactants, starch, alcohols, acetic acid and other constituents, from the various processing steps of the textiles. Hence, the treatment of textile wastewater becomes fundamental before releasing it into water bodies, where they can cause disastrous physical-chemical changes for the environment. Surfactants are substances widely used in separation processes and their use for treating textile wastewaters was evaluated in this research by applying the cloud point extraction and the ionic flocculation. In the cloud point extraction was used as surfactant nonylphenol with 9.5 ethoxylation degree to remove reactive dye. The process evaluation was performed in terms of temperature, surfactant and dye concentrations. The dye removal reached 91%. The ionic flocculation occurs due to the presence of calcium, which reacts with anionic surfactant to form insoluble surfactants capable of attracting the organic matter by adsorption. In this work the ionic flocculation using base soap was applied to the treatment of synthetic wastewater containing dyes belonging to three classes: direct, reactive, and disperse. It was evaluated by the influence of the following parameters: surfactant and electrolyte concentrations, stirring speed, equilibrium time, temperature, and pH. The flocculation of the surfactant was carried out in two ways: forming the floc in the effluent itself and forming the floc before mixing it to the effluent. Removal of reactive and direct dye, when the floc is formed into textile effluent was 97% and 87%, respectively. In the case where the floc is formed prior to adding it to the effluent, the removal to direct and disperse dye reached 92% and 87%, respectively. These results show the efficience of the evaluated processes for dye removal from textile wastewaters.

Avaliação da efetividade do Programa de Alimentação do Trabalhador

This study analyzed the Worker’s Healthy Eating Program in Rio Grande do Norte state (RN) to assess its possible impact on the nutritional status of the workers benefitted. To that end, we conducted a cross-sectional observational prospective study based on a multistage stratified random sample comparing 26 small and medium-sized companies from the Manufacturing Sector (textiles, food and beverages, and nonmetallic minerals) of RN, divided into two equal groups (WFP and Non WFP). Interviews were conducted at each company by trained interviewers from Tuesday to Saturday between September and December 2014. Data were collected on the company (characterization and information regarding the program’s desired results) and workers (personal and professional information, anthropometrics, health, lifestyle and food consumed the previous day). Population estimates were calculated for RN on the characteristics of workers and the study variables. The main variable was BMI. The secondary variables were waist circumference (WC), nutritional diagnosis, calorie intake, blood pressure, metabolic variables and lifestyle indicators. The statistical method used was hierarchical mixed effects linear regression for interval variables and hierarchical mixed effects logistic regression for binary variables. The variables measured in ordinal scales were analyzed by ordinal logistic regression adjusted for correlated variables, adopting robust standard errors. The results for interval variables are presented as point estimates and their 95% confidence intervals; and as odds-ratios and their 95% confidence intervals for binary variables. The Fisher’s exact and Student’s t-tests were used for simple comparisons between proportions and means, respectively. Differences were considered statistically significant at p<0.05. A total of 1069 workers were interviewed, of which 541 were from the WFP group and 528 from the Non WFP group. Subjects were predominantly males and average age was 34.5 years. Significant intergroup differences were observed for schooling level, income above 1 MW (minimum wage) and specific training for their position at the company. The results indicated a significant difference between the BMI of workers benefitted, which was on average 0.989 kg/m2 higher than the BMI of workers from the Non WFP group (p=0.002); and between the WC, with the waist circumference of WFP group workers an average of 1.528 cm larger (p<0.05). Higher prevalence of overweight and obesity (p<0.001) and cardiovascular risk (p=0.038) were recorded in the WFP group. Tests on the possible effect of the WFP on health (blood pressure and metabolic indicators) and lifestyle indicators (smoking, alcohol consumption and exercise) were not significant. With respect to worker’s diets, differences were significant for consumption of saturated fat (lunch and daily intake), salt (lunch, other meals and daily intake) and proteins (other meals and daily intake), with higher consumption of these nutrients in the WFP group. The study showed a possible positive impact of the WFP on nutritional status (BMI and WC) among the workers benefitted. No possible effects of the program were observed for the lifestyle indicators studied. Workers benefitted consumed less salt, saturated fat and protein. The relevance of the WFP is recognized for this portion of society and it is understood that, if the program can reach and impact those involved, the development of educational initiatives aimed at nutritional and food safety may also exert a positive influence.

Estudio del comportamiento físico-químico de materiales poliméricos utilizados en conservación y restauración de bienes culturales

Los materiales poliméricos han experimentado una gran evolución en las últimas décadas, debido al auge de las investigaciones en torno a la síntesis de nuevos materiales y a los avances de las tecnologías asociadas a sus sistemas de procesado. Estas circunstancias han propiciado la aparición de una amplia gama de productos que presentan gran interés en numerosos ámbitos: embalaje (industria alimentaria, fármacos, productos químicos), construcción, diseño, calzado, textiles y por supuesto también en el campo de los Bienes Culturales. Este último uso se extiende desde su empleo en una variada producción artística (pintura, escultura, instalaciones, etc.), hasta su aplicación en procesos de conservación preventiva y en tratamientos de restauración de Bienes Culturales. En relación a su uso en conservación preventiva, están muy introducidos dentro del contexto de la manipulación, exposición, almacenamiento, embalaje y transporte, bien sea como sistemas de sujeción, soporte, aislamiento o protección. En cuanto a los tratamientos de restauración es habitual su uso como adhesivos, consolidantes, recubrimientos y soportes. Sin embargo, en general, estos materiales no han sido desarrollados para su empleo específico en el ámbito de la Conservación y Restauración del Patrimonio, sino que tienen otros usos industriales. Esta circunstancia hace necesaria la realización de estudios previos para conocer su composición, propiedades y comportamiento a largo plazo y, de esta manera, poder establecer unas recomendaciones de uso y estudiar la compatibilidad del material con la obra...

Women in the Global Clothing and Textile Industry

This paper examines the current role of women in the clothing and textile industry through oral history of South African union members. I argue that the industry’s particularly exploitative environment is directly related to both gender and globalization, acting together to worsen conditions in factories. Additionally, I argue that the more recent addition of an increasingly consumer-driven industry structure also impacts its abusive environment. Unionization, along with public and private regulation, have the potential to be catalysts for change in the industry. To be most effective, these organizations need to take into account both gender and globalization, and recognize the equal impacts both have when making decisions.

The Effects of Brominated Flame Retardants on Thyroid Hormone Homeostasis in Human Placenta Tissues and Cell Culture

Polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDEs) are a class of brominated flame retardants (BFRs) that have been heavily used in consumer products such as furniture foams, plastics, and textiles since the mid-1970’s. BFRs are added to products in order to meet state flammability standards intended to increase indoor safety in the event of a fire. The three commercial PBDE mixtures, Penta-, Octa-, and DecaBDE, have all been banned in the United States, however, limited use of DecaBDE is still permitted. PBDEs were phased out of production and added to the Stockholm Convention due to concerns over their environmental persistence and toxicity. Human exposure to PBDEs occurs primarily through the inadvertent ingestion of contaminated house dust, as well as though dietary sources. Despite the phase-out and discontinued use of PBDEs, human exposure to this class of chemicals is likely to continue for decades due to the continued use of treated products and existing environmental reservoirs of PBDEs. Extensive research over the years has shown that PBDEs disrupt thyroid hormone (TH) levels and neurodevelopmental endpoints in rodent and fish models. Additionally, there is growing epidemiological evidence linking PBDE exposure in humans to altered TH homeostasis and neurodevelopmental impairments in children. Due to the importance of THs throughout gestation, there is a great need to understand the effects of BFRs on the developing fetus. Specifically, the placenta plays a critical role in the transport, metabolism, and delivery of THs to the fetal compartment during pregnancy and is a likely target for BFR bioaccumulation and endocrine disruption. The central hypothesis of this dissertation research is that BFRs disrupt the activity of TH sulfotransferase (SULT) enzymes, thereby altering TH concentrations in the placenta.

In the first aim of this dissertation research, the concentrations of PBDEs and 2,4,6-TBP were measured in a cohort of 102 placenta tissue samples from an ongoing pregnancy cohort in Durham, NC. Methods were developed for the extraction and analysis of the BFR analytes. It was found that 2,4,6-TBP was significantly correlated with all PBDE analytes, indicating that 2,4,6-TBP may share common product applications with PBDEs or that 2,4,6-TBP is a metabolite of PBDE compounds. Additionally, this was the first study to measure 2,4,6-TBP in human placenta tissues.

In the second aim of this dissertation research, the placenta tissue concentrations of THs, as well as the endogenous activity of deiodinase (DI) and TH SULT enzymes were quantified using the same cohort of 102 placenta tissue samples. Enzyme activity was detected in all samples and this was the first study to measure TH DI and SULT activity in human placenta tissues. Enzyme activities and TH concentrations were compared with BFR concentrations measured in Aim 1. There were few statistically significant associations observed for the combined data, however, upon stratifying the data set based on infant sex, additional significant associations were observed. For example, among males, those with the highest concentrations of BDE-99 in placenta had T3 levels 0.80 times those with the lowest concentration of BDE-99 (95% confidence interval (CI): 0.59, 1.07). Whereas females with the highest concentrations of BDE-99 in placenta had T3 levels 1.50 times those with the lowest concentration of BDE-99 (95% CI: 1.10, 2.04). Additionally, all BFR analyte concentrations were higher in the placenta of males versus females and they were significantly higher for 2,4,6-TBP and BDE-209. 3,3’-T2 SULT activity was significantly higher in female placenta tissues, while type 3 DI activity was significantly higher in male placenta tissues. This research is the first to show sex-specific differences in the bioaccumulation of BFRs in human placenta tissue, as well as differences in TH concentrations and endogenous DI and SULT activity. The underlying mechanisms of these observed sex differences warrant further investigation.

In the third aim of this dissertation research, the effects of BFRs were examined in a human choriocarcinoma placenta cell line, BeWo. Michaelis-Menten parameters and inhibition curves were calculated for 2,4,6-TBP, 3-OH BDE-47, and 6-OH BDE-47. 2,4,6-TBP was shown to be the most potent inhibitor of 3,3’-T2 SULT activity with a calculated IC50 value of 11.6 nM. It was also shown that 2,4,6-TBP and 3-OH BDE-47 exhibit mixed inhibition of 3,3’-T2 sulfation in BeWo cell homogenates. Next, a series of cell culture exposure experiments were performed using 1, 6, 12, and 24 hour exposure durations. Once again, 2,4,6-TBP was shown to be the most potent inhibitor of basal 3,3’-T2 SULT activity by significantly decreasing activity at the high and medium dose (1 M and 0.5 M, respectively) at all measured time points. Interestingly, BDE-99 was also shown to inhibit basal 3,3’-T2 SULT activity in BeWo cells following the 24 hour exposure, despite exhibiting no inhibitory effects in the BeWo cell homogenate experiments. This indicates that BDE-99 must act through a pathway other than direct enzyme inhibition. Following exposures, the TH concentrations in the cell culture growth media and mRNA expression of TH-related genes were also examined. There was no observed effect of BFR treatment on these endpoints. Future work should focus on determining the downstream biological effects of TH SULT disruption in placental cells, as well as the underlying mechanisms of action responsible for reductions in basal TH SULT activity following BFR exposure.

This was one of the first studies to measure BFRs in a cohort of placenta tissue samples from the United States and the first study to measure THs, DI activity, and SULT activity in human placenta tissues. This research provides a novel contribution to our growing understanding of the effects of BFRs on TH homeostasis within the human placenta, and provides further evidence for sex-specific differences within this important organ. Future research should continue to investigate the effects of environmental contaminants on TH homeostasis within the placenta, as this represents the most critical and vulnerable stage of human development.

Historia regional : Enfoques y articulaciones para complejizar una historia nacional

Tabla de contenidos: La historia de la justicia y las otras historias / Darío G. Barriera. Los corregidores de la Provincia de Cuyo y sus agitadas relaciones con el cabildo de Mendoza [1748-1784] / Inés Sanjurjo de Driollet. Qué fueron los terrenos del pueblo? Conformación y límites en los derechos por la tierra en pueblos de Buenos Aires, 1750-1860 / Mariana Canedo. Espacio económico y territorialidad en el Río de la Plata del siglo XVIII / Fernando Jumar, Nicolás Biangardi. Manuel Posse y el comercio de larga distancia en Tucumán a fines del siglo XVIII / Ana Verónica Avila Sauvage. Caridad, control y desarrollo urbano. Definiciones del otro social en los discursos de la Sociedad de Beneficencia y la prensa local Santa Fe, período de organización nacional / Paula Sedran. Entre el oriente y el occidente : La configuración regional y el desarrollo de las vías de comunicación. Corrientes y Entre Ríos [1862-1880] / Raquel Bressán. Repensando la propiedad rural. La colonización como estrategia de transformación en los inicios del siglo XX / Mónica Blanco. El sistema de transporte cañero en la agroindustria azucarera tucumana. Un análisis sobre los cambios y las innovaciones tecnológicas [1880-1914] / Daniel Moyano. En busca de oportunidades- iniciativas para el consumo de uva fresca en mercados internacionales, Mendoza [1908-1930] / Florencia Rodríguez Vázquez. Crisis, conflictividad y fragmentación de las asociaciones representativas de la vitivinicultura mendocina [1913-1920] / Patricia Barrio. La formación de las instituciones laborales en la Argentina : La difícil relación entre la nación y las provincias / Juan Suriano. El círculo virtuoso : De obreros judíos a fabricantes textiles argentinos [1940-1960] / Nerina Visacovsky. Trayectorias políticas y ejercicio partidario. La experiencia del Partido Laborista en Córdoba [1945-1948] / Jésica Blanco.

Disruptive Threads and Renegade Yarns: Domestic Textile Making in Selected Women's Writing 1811-1925

Images of domestic textiles (items made at home for consumption within the household) and textile making form an important subtext to women’s writing, both during and after industrialization. Through a close reading of five novels from the period 1811-1925, this thesis will assert that a detailed understanding of textile work and its place in women’s daily lives is critical to a deeper understanding of social, sexual and political issues from a woman’s perspective. The first chapter will explore the history of the relationship between women and domestic textile making, and the changes wrought to the latter by the Industrial Revolution. The second chapter will examine the role of embroidery in the construction of “appropriate” feminine gentility in Jane Austen’s Mansfield Park (1814). The third chapter, on Elizabeth Gaskell’s Cranford (1853), will explore how the older female body became a repository for anxieties about class mobility and female power at the beginning of the Victorian era. The fourth chapter will compare Sara Jeannette Duncan’s A Social Departure (1890) and Kate Chopin’s The Awakening (1899) to consider how later Victorian women both internalized and refuted public narratives of domestic textile making in a quest for “self-ownership.” The last chapter, on Martha Ostenso’s Wild Geese (1925), examines the corrosive, yet ultimately redemptive, relationships of a family of women trapped by abuse and degradation. For all five authors, images of textiles and textile making allow them to speak to issues that were usually only discussed within a community of women: sexuality, desire, aging, marriage, and motherhood. In all five works, textile making “talks back” to the power structures that marginalize women, and lends insight into the material and emotional circumstances of women’s lives.

Stitching Settler Identities: Canadian Quilts and Their Makers, 1800-1880

Stitching Settler Identities: Canadian Quilts and their Makers, 1800-1880 explores the making, use, and circulation of handmade settler quilts as representation of nineteenth-century women’s social, cultural and economic histories in Canada. An important part of Canadian settlement history is the making and use of handmade quilts in the settler homestead. Handmade coverlets that provided both physical and emotional warmth in the home were a measure of a settler-woman’s careful management of resources and a display of her innovation and creativity. Few settler women recorded their daily experiences; however, most women could sew and quilts offered a method of expression that allowed them to reflect and portray their identities. Thus far, the few studies of quilts have been limited to exhibition catalogues or research that considers a quilt’s aesthetics or its historic significance. While several scholars have called for a reclassification of textile production and needle arts to advance the way in which settler women were viewed as social beings – creating, producing, communicating, and circulating cultural values, most studies on quilts have overlooked a coverlet’s materiality. This study aims to expand the research on quilts as material culture within the context of art history by also considering a quilt’s materiality and when possible, its maker's biography.

La razón neoliberal. Economías barrocas y pragmática popular. En: LaRivada, V. 3, nº 4 

Basado en la tesis de investigación doctoral “Mutaciones en el trabajo en la Argentina post 2001: entre la feminización y el trabajo esclavo” (2012), el libro de Verónica Gago: La Razón neoliberal. Economías barrocas y pragmática popular, reproduce una suerte de simbiosis en su estructura argumentativa con la complejidad y elu­sividad del fenómeno que describe: las mutaciones del neoliberalismo contemporáneo que hunden sus prácticas en las economías populares. Para dar cuenta de ello, la escritura nece­sita abandonar (afortunadamente) toda pretensión de linealidad historiográfica o socioló­gica para recorrer trayectos oblicuos que van y vienen entre la Feria de La Salada (ubicada en el límite de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires con los partidos bonaerenses de Lomas de Zamora y La Matanza), los talleres textiles, la villa, la migración y la constitución de las ciudades como espacios heterogéneos des-idealizados.

Portrait anthropologique d’un acteur social dans une famille industrielle verviétoise (Belgique, Province de Liège) au XIXe siècle

Ce mémoire construit le portrait anthropologique d’un acteur social qui a vécu au XIXe siècle (1806-1875) dans une famille entrepreneuriale de la bourgeoisie verviétoise du textile (Belgique - province de Liège). Il s’agit d’un travail ethno-historique basé sur des archives. Le document principal est un journal personnel rédigé pendant une période de vingt ans (1843-1864) par l’acteur étudié. L’approche est ethnographique et l’éclairage théorique est transactionnaliste. Le travail décrit de façon détaillée, en s’approchant par paliers des enjeux prioritaires de l’acteur, quelques aspects de son insertion sociale, incessamment entretenue et reproduite. L’étude s’attarde à la position particulière de cet acteur né second fils dans une famille qui possède et transmet un bien industriel, et qui restera sans enfants, au moment où il agit dans son milieu local, et où interagissent, avec lui et entre eux, les membres de sa famille et ceux des familles alliées. Tous s’entrecroisent dans les horizons - tangents aux domaines du textile, des mines et de l’agriculture, des journaux, de la politique et de la religion - que sont les affaires, les oeuvres sociales et de charité. Le but de ce mémoire est de montrer qu’en s’intéressant de près aux acteurs dans les contextes sociaux de leurs vies, on peut comprendre leurs stratégies, leurs interprétations et leurs limites.

Thermobonded Fabrics

In 2009 Avella created a series of innovative fabrics for the Yves St Laurent (YSL) collection, deploying techniques from vehicle engineering to generate new materials for a range of garments. Studying the bonding of layers of material in ceramic plate thermobonding technology, Avella conducted a series of experiments with textiles such as flannel, silk and synthetics, and material such as leather, layered with polyamide foam and textile substrate to create new, textured and insulating fabrics with beautiful surfaces and interesting forms. The lightweight properties of the foam enabled the maximum insulation/weight ratio, and the panel moulding technology brought new forms of draping prêt-a-porter fashion design. Exclusive to YSL, this technique was patented and then shown at the Premiere Vision textiles trade fair in 2010. Much documented in specialist journals this innovation also breached the trade-culture barrier and was reported and documented in mainstream newspapers (New York Herald Tribune). Avella’s background in textile workshop studio experimentation at the RCA brought to YSL textiles research for manufacture, the innovative collaboration between fashion couture and engineering laboratory experiments from vehicle design.

Jaquard Laquer

In 2010 Avella worked with the Yves St Laurent (YSL) textiles research team to find elements for a coating that could be applied to weave surfaces in the form of a ‘laquer’ finish. Working with industrial chemists, Avella designed a Jaquard weave pattern to function as substrate for this laquer coating. Successfully used to make womenswear with a high gloss finish, this textile was patented before being displayed in 2010 and much imitated in other collections. Continuing this research for the following collection Avella pursued experiments in laboratory-based industrial chemistry to find a liquid coating that could, like ‘laquer’, be applied as a surface finish to textiles. The resulting metallic iridescent surface was first used in the 20?? Collection (Intellectual Property YSL). Whilst the culture of neophilia in Womenswear fashion at YSL demands permanent innovation for stylistic rather than functional reasons, the innovations in the surface coatings of textiles has potential instrumentality which Avella brings to the resources of the RCA Materials For Living Research Hub and its Inspiring Matter Biennial Conference (2012). Cross disciplinary knowledge transfer between design practices is fundamental to research as process in the School of Material, and textile, as medium, has particularly conformable properties which are especially valuable to this. Anthropologist Susanne Kuechler describes woven textiles as having ’profound meaning as agents of boundary creation’, and Avella’s textiles innovations explore the complexity of the garment as boundary between ‘inside’ and ‘outside’.