Industries et industriels français du textile face au défi international 1871-1914

Fortement liées à l’international, les industries françaises du textile ont connu une évolution erratique entre 1871 et 1914. L’adoption de tarifs hautement protectionnistes en 1892 favorise les industriels du coton au détriment de ceux travaillant la laine et la soie. Ces derniers exportent leurs marchandises luxueuses sur des marchés ouverts à la concurrence. Ils profitent peu des marchés coloniaux, moins intéressés par leurs produits. Des politiques hardies d’importation directe de la matière première permettent, notamment à Roubaix, de pallier à certains désavantages. Si plusieurs industriels incitent le gouvernement à réformer ses services commerciaux à l’étranger et à y adjoindre des spécialistes, ils retiennent peu les recommandations des experts concernant l’adoption des moyens propres à favoriser les exportations. Plusieurs carences du commerce français ont été soulignées précocement mais il a été difficile de rapidement appliquer des solutions. Dans un contexte marqué par une concurrence accrue sur les marchés extérieurs, la France s’en tire mieux qu’on a pu le penser. La flexibilité de l’appareil productif français permet d’obtenir de nombreuses commandes dans les créneaux du luxe et du demi-luxe. Son niveau d’intégration, moins élevé que dans d’autres pays, se révèle ainsi parfois être un avantage. Toutefois, l’industrie textile est handicapée par la grande difficulté des patrons à s’associer de manière stable à l’extérieur du clan familial. L’entente se réalise cependant plus aisément et avantageusement pour ceux qui ont une production spécialisée, rare ou brevetée. Les performances et l’organisation des entreprises textiles françaises à l’étranger montrent que le marché national stimulait peu les producteurs à adopter les meilleures conditions de production possibles. Ces sociétés et celles obtenant des succès à l’exportation sont souvent les plus dynamiques et les plus rentables.

Nouvelle approche pour modifier le tropisme des vecteurs adénoviraux à l’aide de ligands bispécifiques

L’adénovirus a été étudié dans l’optique de développer de nouveaux traitements pour différentes maladies. Les vecteurs adénoviraux (AdV) sont des outils intéressants du fait qu’ils peuvent être produits en grandes quantités (1X1012 particules par millilitre) et de par leur capacité à infecter des cellules quiescentes ou en division rapide. Les AdVs ont subi bon nombre de modifications pour leur permettre de traiter des cellules tumorales ou pour transporter des séquences génétiques exogènes essentielles pour le traitement de maladies monogéniques. Toutefois, les faibles niveaux d’expression du récepteur primaire de l’adénovirus, le CAR (récepteur à l’adénovirus et au virus coxsackie), réduit grandement l’efficacité de transduction dans plusieurs tumeurs. De plus, certains tissus normaux comme les muscles n’expriment que très peu de CAR, rendant l’utilisation des AdVs moins significative. Pour pallier à cette limitation, plusieurs modifications ont été générées sur les capsides virales. L’objectif de ces modifications était d’augmenter l’affinité des AdVs pour des récepteurs cellulaires spécifiques surexprimés dans les tumeurs et qui seraient exempts dans les tissus sains avoisinant. On peut mentionner dans les approches étudiées: l’utilisation de ligands bispécifiques, l’incorporation de peptides dans différentes régions de la fibre ou la substitution par une fibre de sérotypes différents. Notre hypothèse était que les domaines d’interaction complémentaire (K-Coil et ECoil) permettraient aux ligands de s’associer aux particules virales et d’altérer le tropisme de l’AdV. Pour ce faire, nous avons inclus un domaine d’interaction synthétique, le K-Coil,dans différentes régions de la fibre virale en plus de générer des mutations spécifiques pour abolir le tropisme naturel. Pour permettre la liaison avec les récepteurs d’intérêt dont l’EGF-R, l’IGF-IR et le CEA6, nous avons fusionné le domaine d’interaction complémentaire, le E-Coil, soit dans les ligands des récepteurs ciblés dont l’EGF et l’IGF-I, soit sur un anticorps à un seul domaine reconnaissant la protéine membranaire CEA6, l’AFAI. Suite à la construction des différents ligands de même que des différentes fibres virales modifiées, nous avons determiné tout d’abord que les différents ligands de même que les virus modifiés pouvaient être produits et que les différentes composantes pouvaient interagir ensemble. Les productions virales ont été optimisées par l’utilisation d’un nouveau protocole utilisant l’iodixanol. Ensuite, nous avons démontré que l’association des ligands avec le virus arborant une fibre modifiée pouvait entraîner une augmentation de transduction de 2 à 21 fois dans différentes lignées cellulaires. À cause de la difficulté des adénovirus à infecter les fibres musculaires occasionnée par l’absence du CAR, nous avons cherché à savoir si le changement de tropisme pourrait accroître l’infectivité des AdVs. Nous avons démontré que l’association avec le ligand bispécifique IGF-E5 permettait d’accroître la transduction autant dans les myoblastes que dans les myotubes de souris. Nous avons finalement réussi à démontrer que notre système pouvait induire une augmentation de 1,6 fois de la transduction suite à l’infection des muscles de souriceaux MDX. Ces résultats nous amènent à la conclusion que le système est fonctionnel et qu’il pourrait être évalué dans des AdVs encodant pour différents gènes thérapeutiques.

Precursors and prices : structuring the Quebec synthetic drug market

Information recueillie sur les marchés des drogues de synthèse est beaucoup moins avancée que les études sur d'autres marchés de drogues illicites. La classification relativement récente des drogues de synthèse comme substances illicites, couplée avec ses caractéristiques distinctes qui empêchent son observation, a entravé le développement d’évaluations complètes et fiables des caractéristiques structurelles des marchés. Le but de cet article est de fournir un aperçu fiable sur la dynamique interne du marché des drogues synthétiques, en particulier sur ses caractéristiques structurelles et organisationnelles. En utilisant l'information obtenue à partir de 365 drogues de synthèse saisies par les policiers pendant un an, cette étude sera la fusion de deux techniques, soit la composition des drogues illicites et des analyses économiques, afin de tirer des évaluations fiables des caractéristiques structurelles du marché du Québec de drogues synthétiques. Les résultats concernant l'analyse de la composition des drogues indiquent que le marché des drogues synthétiques au Québec est probablement composé d'un nombre élevé de petites structures, ce qui indique un marché compétitif. L'analyse économique a également fourni des informations complémentaires sur le marché des drogues. Selon la région géographique les couts de la production et les relations entre trafiquant et consommateur influencent le prix des drogues. Les résultats de cette recherche mettent l'accent sur la nécessité de concevoir des politiques qui tient compte des différences régionales dans la production de drogue et reflète la nature compétitive de ce marché.

Fabrication and characterisation of polymer optical fibers for smart sensing and optical amplification

The thesis presented the fabrication and characterisation of polymer optical fibers in their applications as optical amplifier and smart sensors.Optical polymers such as PMMA are found to be a very good host material due to their ability to incorporate very high concentration of optical gain media like fluorescent dyes and rare earth compounds. High power and high gain optical amplification in organic dye-doped polymer optical fibers is possible due to extremely large emission cross sections of oyes. Dye doped (Rhodamine 6G) optical fibers were fabricated by using indigenously developed polymer optical fiber drawing tower. Loss characterization of drawn dye doped fibers was carried out using side illumination technique. The advantage of the above technique is that it is a nondestructive method and can also be used for studying the uniformity in fiber diameter and doping. Sensitivity of the undoped polymer fibers to temperature and microbending were also studied in its application in smart sensors.Optical amplification studies using the dye doped polymer optical fibers were carried out and found that an amplification of l8dB could be achieved using a very short fiber of length lOcm. Studies were carried out in fibers with different dye concentrations and diameter and it was observed that gain stability was achieved at relatively high dye concentrations irrespective of the fiber diameter.Due to their large diameter, large numerical aperture, flexibility and geometrical versatility of polymer optical fibers it has a wide range of applications in the field of optical sensing. Just as in the case of conventional silica based fiber optic sensors, sensing techniques like evanescent wave, grating and other intensity modulation schemes can also be efficiently utilized in the case of POF based sensors. Since polymer optical fibers have very low Young's modulus when compared to glass fibers, it can be utilized for sensing mechanical stress and strain efficiently in comparison with its counterpart. Fiber optic sensors have proved themselves as efficient and reliable devices to sense various parameters like aging, crack formation, weathering in civil structures. A similar type of study was carried out to find the setting characteristics of cement paste used for constructing civil structures. It was found that the measurements made by using fiber optic sensors are far more superior than that carried out by conventional methods. More over,POF based sensors were found to have more sensitivity as well.

Long period gratings in multimode optical fibers: application in chemical sensing

We propose and demonstrate a new technique for evanescent wave chemical sensing by writing long period gratings in a bare multimode plastic clad silica fiber. The sensing length of the present sensor is only 10 mm, but is as sensitive as a conventional unclad evanescent wave sensor having about 100 mm sensing length. The minimum measurable concentration of the sensor reported here is 10 nmol/l and the operating range is more than 4 orders of magnitude. Moreover, the detection is carried out in two independent detection configurations viz., bright field detection scheme that detects the core-mode power and dark field detection scheme that detects the cladding mode power. The use of such a double detection scheme definitely enhances the reliability and accuracy of the results. Furthermore, the cladding of the present fiber need not be removed as done in conventional evanescent wave fiber sensors.

Microbent optical fibers as evanescent wave sensors

Microbent optical fibers are potential candidates for evanescent wave sensing. We investigate the behavior of a permanently microbent fiber optic sensor when it is immersed in an absorbing medium. Two distinct detection schemes, namely, bright-field and dark-field detection configuration, are employed for the measurements. The optical power propagating through the sensor is found to vary in a logarithmic fashion with the concentration of the absorbing species in the surrounding medium. We observe that the sensitivity of the setup is dependent on the bending amplitude and length of the microbend region for the bright-field detection scheme, while it is relatively independent of both for the dark-field detection configuration. This feature can be exploited in compact sensor designs where reduction of the sensing region length is possible without sacrificing sensitivity.

2(3H)-Furanones and related substrates: Synthetic strategies and selectivity profile in their reactivity

The synthesis and reactions of simple derivatives of 2(3H)- and 3(2H)furanones have attracted considerable attention in recent years, primarily in connection with development of routes to antitumor agents that contain this ring as central structural unit. They also serve as useful synthetic building blocks for lactones and furans and are the precursors of a wide variety of biologically important heterocyclic systems. Although a number of syntheses of furanones were known they were in many cases limited to specific substitution pattems. The development of altemative strategies for the preparation of these heterocycles is therefore of considerable importance or continues to be a challenge.We propose to develop new and general approaches to the synthesis of furanone ring systems from simple and readily available starting materials since we were interested in examining their rich photochemistry. The photochemical reactivity of Beta,gama-unsaturated lactams and lactones is a subject of current interest. Some of the prominent photoreaction pathways of unsaturated lactones include decarbonylation, solvent addition to double bonds, decarboxylation, migration of aryl substituents and dimerisation. lt was reported earlier that the critical requirement for clean photochemical cleavage of the acyl-oxygen bond is the presence ofa double bond adjacent to the ether oxygen and 2(3H)-furanones possessing this structural requirement undergo facile decarbonylation. But related phenanthrofuranones are isolated as photostable end products upon irradiation. Hence we propose to synthesis a few phenanthro-2(3H)-furanones to study the effect of a radical stabilising group at 3-position of furanone ring on photolysis. To explore the tripletmediated transformations of 2(3H)-furanones in polar and nonpolar solvents a few 3,3-bis(4-chlorophenyl)-5-aryl-3H-furan-2-ones and 3,3-di(p-tolyl)-5-aryl- 3H-furan-2-ones were synthesised from the corresponding dibenzoylstyrene precursors by neat thermolysis. Our aim was to study the nature of intermediates involved in these transformations.We also explored the possibility of developing a new and general approach to the synthesis of 3(2H)-furanones from simple and readily available starting materials since such general procedures are not available. The protocol developed by us employs readily available phenanthrenequinone and various 4-substituted acetophenones as starting materials and provides easy access to the required 3(2H)-furanone targets. These furanone derivatives have immense potential for further investigations .We also aimed the synthesis of a few dibenzoylalkene-type systems such as acenaphthenone-2—ylidene ketones and phenanthrenone-9-ylidene ketones. These systems were expected to undergo thermal rearrangement to give furanones and spirofuranones. Also these systems can be categorised as quinonemethides which are valuable synthetic intermediates.

Global Value Chain Linkages of Manufacturing Export Firms: A Study of The Kannur Home Textile Industry

The literature on the involvement of developing countries in trade has focused on the effects of different aspects of globalization on firms, regions and countries. The study attempts to examine how an export based industry, locallyembedded and originated on the basis of regional strengths has been inserted into the global trade framework. Though the unit of analysis is the manufacturing export firm in the region of Kannur, it represents the entire home textile export industry from the state of Kerala, as close to 90% of fabric exports in home furnishing material, textiles for upholstery and decoration and stitched or fused, and branded made ups are from the region. From a global perspective, how developing countries face newer trade restrictions and overcome non quota barriers by firm and region specific activities within a value chain framework is a major research area, which has already contributions from the Ludhiana woolen cluster (Tewari,1999 ) and the Tirupur cluster in India (Cawthorne, 1995). The study contributes to the value chain literature by examining the governance and upgrading as well as how firms benefit from linkages. India has a number of export oriented agglomerations or regions where firms have been serving export markets for many years. In many cases it is no longer the supply side policy actions that determine how they are able to penetrate new markets or expand existing market share. Based on this study it becomes possible to understand how the global value chain operates in these different industries to examine whether there is a danger of immiserisation of growth or low road growth

Studies on some nonlinear schrodinger type equations describing pulse propagation through optical fibers

The discovery of the soliton is considered to be one of the most significant events of the twentieth century. The term soliton refers to special kinds of waves that can propagate undistorted over long distances and remain unaffected even after collision with each other. Solitons have been studied extensively in many fields of physics. In the context of optical fibers, solitons are not only of fundamental interest but also have potential applications in the field of optical fiber communications. This thesis is devoted to the theoretical study of soliton pulse propagation through single mode optical fibers.

Materials for Fish Nets-Their Properties, Selection and Preservation

The properties of synthetic fibres vary with thc inherent physical characteristics of the basic raw materials used mode of preparation of yarns and method of construction of twines. Since the synthetic fibres as maufactured from polymers which are synthesized from simple chemical units, the qualities of man-made fibres can he influenced by the process of manufacture and certain modifications can even be introduced at the processing stage to meet any specific requirement to a certain extent. Hence, an elaborate study of the properties of fish not twines produced has been taken up with a view to determining their suitability for various types of fishing gear with particular reference to conditions prevailing in India.

A Study Of The Textile Industry In Kerala With Comparative Reference To Tamil Nadu

. The cotton mill industry is one of the important medium and large-scale industries in the State of Kerala. Due to the widespread development of the handloom industry in the State, there is an environment conducive to the growth of cotton spinning mills which produce yarn, the raw material required by the handloom industry. New spin— ing mills are being commissioned. But the performance of the existing cotton spinning and weaving mills in the State is not quite satisfactory. Hence an analysis has been carried out into the profitability and financial position of the industry in Kerala. The objective of the study is to make a financial analysis of the industry covering various aspects such as cost structure, productivity, asset structure, financial structure and working capital management.

Preparation and characterization of micro and nano fiber reinforced natural rubber composites by latex stage processing

Use of short fibers as reinforcing fillers in rubber composites is on an increasing trend. They are popular due to the possibility of obtaining anisotropic properties, ease of processing and economy. In the preparation of these composites short fibers are incorporated on two roll mixing mills or in internal mixers. This is a high energy intensive time consuming process. This calls for developing less energy intensive and less time consuming processes for incorporation and distribution of short fibers in the rubber matrix. One method for this is to incorporate fibers in the latex stage. The present study is primarily to optimize the preparation of short fiber- natural rubber composite by latex stage compounding and to evaluate the resulting composites in terms of mechanical, dynamic mechanical and thermal properties. A synthetic fiber (Nylon) and a natural fiber (Coir) are used to evaluate the advantages of the processing through latex stage. To extract the full reinforcing potential of the coir fibers the macro fibers are converted to micro fibers through chemical and mechanical means. The thesis is presented in 7 chapters

“Fabrication and characterization of polymer optical fibers for photonic device applications

Although the main application of optical fibers are in the field of telecommunication, optical fiber based sensors of various designs are becoming valuable devices for wide industrial applications. The advantages of optical fiber-based sensors include high sensitivity, insensitivity to electromagnetic radiation; spark free, light weight and minimal intrusiveness due to their relatively small size and deployment in harsh and hostile environments. It has been proved that POI-7 based sensors can be employed to detect a great variety of parameters including temperature, humidity, pressure, refractive index etc. The proposed thesis presented in six chapters deals with the work carried on dye doped and undoped POF for photonic device applications such as amplifier, laser and sensor