854 resultados para Textile dyes
Resumo:
Luxury is a quality that is difficult to define as the historical concept of luxury appears to be both dynamic and culturally specific. The everyday definition explains a ‘luxury’ in relation to a necessity: a luxury (product or service) is defined as something that consumers want rather than need. However, the growth of global markets has seen a boom in what are now referred to as ‘luxury brands’. This branding of products as luxury has resulted in a change in the way consumers understand luxury goods and services. In their attempts to characterize a luxury brand, Fionda & Moore in their article “The anatomy of a Luxury Brand” summarize a range of critical conditions that are in addition to product branding “... including product and design attributes of quality, craftsmanship and innovative, creative and unique products” (Fionda & Moore, 2009). For the purposes of discussing fashion design however, quality and craftsmanship are inseparable while creativity and innovation exist under different conditions. The terms ‘creative’ and ‘innovative’ are often used inter-changeably and are connected with most descriptions of the design process, defining ‘design’ and ‘fashion’ in many cases. Christian Marxt and Fredrik Hacklin identify this condition in their paper “Design, product development, innovation: all the same in the end?”(Marxt & Hacklin, 2005) and suggest that design communities should be aware that the distinction between these terms, whilst once quite definitive, is becoming narrow to a point where they will mean the same thing. In relation to theory building in the discipline this could pose significant problems. Brett Richards (2003) identifies innovation as different from creativity in that innovation aims to transform and implement rather than simply explore and invent. Considering this distinction, in particular relation to luxury branding, may affect the way in which design can contribute to a change in the way luxury fashion goods might be perceived in a polarised fashion market, namely suggesting that ‘luxury’ is what consumers need rather than the ‘pile it high, sell it cheap’ fashion that the current market dynamic would indicate they want. This paper attempts to explore the role of innovation as a key contributing factor in luxury concepts, in particular the relationship between innovation and creativity, the conditions which enable innovation, the role of craftsmanship in innovation and design innovation in relation to luxury fashion products. An argument is presented that technological innovation can be demonstrated as a common factor in the development of luxury fashion product and that the connection between designer and maker will play an important role in the development of luxury fashion goods for a sustainable fashion industry.
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This article provides a discussion about how new technologies will enable Fashion Textiles Research to be disseminated amongst a new generation of producers and consumers via interactive and web technologies. How appropriate are these methods for Fashion Textiles Research? What are the advantages of these mediums and what will this mean for researchers, producers and consumers now and in the future, as the traditional platforms such as Journal Papers and Conferences, become obsolete? Can we predict the future of communicating textile research by assessing the way in which research is being conducted with the use of electronic databases, the Internet and with the emergence of electronic journals?
Resumo:
This paper extends the work of “Luxury fashion : the role of innovation as a key contributing factor in the development of luxury fashion goods and sustainable fashion design” (Finn, 2011). The discussion here begins with the observation that post consumer textile waste remains a major obstacle in realising a model of sustainable fashion design and production however, amongst the millions of tonnes of textile and clothing sent to landfill each year there is little evidence of authentic luxury branded goods ending life as landfill. The sustainable fashion movement often support approaches such as fashion up-cycle, re-cycle and cradle to cradle solutions. This paper argues that the priority should be to break the cycle of consumerism as an immediate intervention in ongoing unsustainable (and in some cases unethical) practices involved in the production of fashion goods. The connections between maker and consumer are explored through object analysis and the findings raise questions of the separation between luxury fashion goods and fashion goods that bear luxury fashion branding. This paper suggests that unethical and subversive exploitation of these connections may be used to promote increased consumerism while at the same time purporting exclusivity and superior craftsmanship.
Resumo:
Former Sex Pistols manager Malcolm McLaren has said that punk fashion truly began in New York. In the 1970s, New York was home to the burgeoning punk scene, Fluxus artists and Andy Warhol’s ‘Factory’. Trace the connections between designers, artists and the musicians who became fashion icons such as Robert Mapplethorpe, Patti Smith, Malcolm McLaren, Richard Hell, Lou Reed, and Andy Warhol with Alice Payne (PhD candidate).
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Dye-sensitised solar cells have emerged as an important developing technology for low-cost solar energy conversion and a crucial element of these is the dye, responsible for light harvesting and control of interfacial electron-transfer processes.[1] A number of examples of dye exist in the literature which link a ruthenium polypyridyl complex to another platinum group metal complex such as Ru (II), Os (II), Re (I) or Rh (III) via a bridging ligand.[2-6] These systems are often referred to as heterosupramolecular triads when adsorbed on the surface of TiO2 as the semiconductor becomes an active component in the system. A number of problems can arise with these types of sensitisers, for example if a flexible linker, e.g. bis-pyridylethane, is used to couple the two complexes it can be hard to control the orientation of the whole dye. This may lead to the resultant dye cation hole being closer to the surface than desired, and hence the long-lived charge-separated state is not achieved. In addition the size of these dyes may be much larger than that of a mononuclear complex and can lead to poor pore filling on the TiO2 and lower dye coverage, leading to a lower efficiency cell.[7] Despite these issues, efficient charge-separation has been achieved with polynuclear complexes and a long-lived state on the millisecond timescale has been observed for a trinuclear ruthenium complex.[8]
Resumo:
The expression of a narrative realized through a constructed interior environment provides a significant and engaging response that falls between the realms of design and theatre in which the space itself provides the role of actor.
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This paper uses the lens of life-cycle thinking to discuss recent developments in the Australian mass market fashion industry, and to explore the opportunities and barriers to implementing lifecycle thinking within mass market design processes. Life-cycle analysis is a quantitative tool used to assess the environmental impact of a material or product. However the underlying thinking of life-cycle analysis can also be employed more generally, enabling a designer to assess their processes and design decisions for sustainability. A fashion designer employing life cycle thinking would consider every stage in the life of a garment from fibre and textiles through to consumer use, to eventual disposal and beyond disposal to reuse and later disassembly for fibre recycling. Although life-cycle thinking is rarely considered in the design processes of the fast-paced, price-driven mass market, this paper explores its potential and suggests ways in which it could be implemented.
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The majority of Australians will work, sleep and die in the garments of the mass market. Yet, as Ian Griffiths has termed it, the designers of these garments are ‘invisible’ (2000). To the general public, the values, opinions and individual design processes of these designers are as unknown as their names. However, the designer’s role is crucial in making decisions which will have impacts throughout the life of the garment. The high product volume within the mass market ensures that even a small decision in the design process to source a particular fabric, or to use a certain trim or textile finish, can have a profound environmental or social effect. While big companies in Australia have implemented some visible strategies for sustainability, it is uncertain how these may have flowed through to design practices. To explore this question, this presentation will discuss preliminary findings from in-depth semi-structured interviews with Australian mass market fashion designers and product developers. The aim of the interviews was to hear the voice of the insider – to listen to mass market designers describe their design process, discuss the Australian fashion industry and its future challenges and opportunities, and to comment on what a ‘sustainability’ for their industry could look like. These interviews will be discussed within the framework of design philosopher Tony Fry’s writing on design redirection for sustainability.
Resumo:
Australia’s mass market fashion labels have traditionally benefitted from their peripheral location to the world’s fashion centres. Operating a season behind, Australian mass market designers and buyers were well-placed to watch trends play out overseas before testing them in the Australian marketplace. For this reason, often a designer’s role was to source and oversee the manufacture of ‘knock-offs’, or close copies of Northern hemisphere mass market garments. Both Weller (2007) and Walsh (2009) have commented on this practice. The knock-on effect from this continues to be a cautious, derivative fashion sensibility within Australian mass market fashion design, where any new trend or product is first tested and proved overseas months earlier. However, there is evidence that this is changing. The rapid online dissemination of global fashion trends, coupled with the Australian consumer’s willingness to shop online, has meant that the ‘knock-off’ is less viable. For this reason, a number of mass market companies are moving away from the practice of direct sourcing and are developing product in-house under a Northern hemisphere model. This shift is also witnessed in the trend for mass market companies to develop collections in partnership with independent Australian designers. This paper explores the current and potential effects of these shifts within Australian mass market design practice, and discusses how they may impact on designers, consumers and on the wider culture of Australian fashion.
Resumo:
For the Australian fashion industry to move towards a more socially and environmentally ethical industry, change to existing processes would need to occur in all market levels. Change is particularly needed in the mass market, where larger volumes inevitably lead to greater environmental impact. Recent trends in eco fashion have waxed and waned, with only minor impact on the methodology of the mass market design process, with greenwashing and confusion of concepts being common problems. In the mass market, the product lifecycle begins in the design room and ends on the retail floor. A design process for sustainability necessarily expands this lifecycle, assessing the impact of every stage in the life of a fashion garment from the fibre and textiles through to consumer use, to eventual disposal and beyond disposal to fibre recycling and reuse or resale. However, how easy is it for designers to consider a wider view of the product lifecycle in their design process? How much autonomy do they have over their design process, and where do they believe their responsibility begins and ends for the garments they design? This paper will present some preliminary findings from interviews with designers in the Australian women’s wear mass market, revealing their concerns and views on the challenges of a sustainability for their industry.
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Exhibited at The Fashioning the Future Awards Showcase exhibition Fashioning the Future Awards is the leading international cross-disciplinary platform for celebrating innovative initiatives towards fashion design for sustainability, its development and communication. The 2011 awards are a showcase for exceptional work that celebrates ‘Unique’ ways to create our futures. Fashioning the Future is designed and coordinated by the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at London College of Fashion. Unique Enterprise Award The Unique Enterprise Award was offered for the consideration of the opportunities that arise from the necessity to solve the issues around water, waste, wellbeing, energy, equality and biodiversity. Winner Alice Payne According to Alice Payne there is no one-size-fits-all approach to creating a sustainable fashion system. Existing companies will need to evolve, change the way they design and produce garments, offer services rather than products, and engage with the end user to consider the end of life and future lives of their garments. The ThinkLifecycle content management system (CMS) acts as a bridge between existing industry practices and new, redirected practice in which sustainability is at the forefront of commercial thinking. Its chief aim is to embed lifecycle thinking within a company at a daily, operational level.
Resumo:
While the fashion industry is normally first to recognise trends and embrace creativity, fashion designers are sometimes the last to acknowledge that business acumen and entrepreneurial skills are needed. However, fashion designers and entrepreneurs are now all members of the new ‘creative’ global marketplace with its inherent need to sell globally and be competitive with international brands. For the Australian industry, this tension creates enormous pressures due to Australia’s small population (and market/s), the decreasing textile and manufacturing base, the increase of ‘creative’ micro businesses and with this the increasing number of young Australians wanting to start their own fashion business. This paper highlights the current size of the Australian fashion industry, the trend for small business models, the ‘career portfolio’ entrepreneur and strategies Australian universities are undertaking to address students wishing to enter the business of fashion. It also identifies case studies where enterprise learning pedagogy has been successfully implemented into the business education of an Australian fashion program and concludes with recommendations for an enterprise pedagogy that creates authentic learning, while working with industry and community stakeholders in flexible university formats.
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Fibres are extremely common. They can originate directly from human and animal hair, and also from textiles in the form of clothing, upholstery and carpets. Hair and textile fibres are relatively easily shed and transferred, which means that it is highly likely that fibres will be found at crime scenes. If such fibres are carefully characterised they can be of immense value in the forensic environment. Vibrational spectroscopy is one of the most important methods for the characterisation of natural and synthetic fibres. The vibrational spectrum, whether mid-IR or Raman, can be considered to be a fingerprint of the molecular structure of the fibre and as such has a very high information content.