Statistical distribution of wave-surface elevation for second-order random directional ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a statistical distribution of the wave-surface elevation is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the distribution, after normalization of the wave-surface elevation, depends only on two parameters. One parameter describes the small mean bias of the surface produced by the second-order wave-wave interactions. Another one is approximately proportional to the skewness of the distribution. Both of these two parameters can be determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, we consider a fully developed wind-generated sea and the parameters are calculated for various wind speeds and water depths by using Donelan and Pierson spectrum. It is also found that, for deep water, the dimensionless distribution reduces to the third-order Gram-Charlier series obtained by Longuet-Higgins [J. Fluid Mech. 17 (1963) 459]. The newly proposed distribution is compared with the data of Bitner [Appl. Ocean Res. 2 (1980) 63], Gaussian distribution and the fourth-order Gram-Charlier series, and found our distribution gives a more reasonable fit to the data. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

NONLINEAR GRAVITY-WAVES IN DEEP-WATER

In consideration of the problem on the boundary condition of nonlinear free water wave, coordinate transform is used to handle the free boundary. Supposing the solution form be the traveling wave, the ordinary differential equations of the one-order autonomous system with two variables are caused, then expanding the nonlinear terms at the equilibrium point with the Taylor expansion, we obtained the solution to traveling wave. The linear approximate equation near the equilibrium point is the small amplitude wave. A new nonlinear periodic traveling wave and nonlinear dispersion relation are shown when expanding to the second-order terms. A conclusion that the expansion of dispersion relation does not contain any odd-power terms of wave steepness and because of the nonlinear effort an oscillate structure is produced in the vertical direction is drawn.

Second-order solutions for random interfacial waves in N-layer density-stratified fluid with steady uniform currents

In the present paper, the random inter facial waves in N-layer density-stratified fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds are researched by using an expansion technique, and the second-order a symptotic solutions of the random displacements of the density interfaces and the associated velocity potentials in N-layer fluid are presented based on the small amplitude wave theory. The obtained results indicate that the wave-wave second-order nonlinear interactions of the wave components and the second-order nonlinear interactions between the waves and currents are described. As expected, the solutions include those derived by Chen (2006) as a special case where the steady uniform currents of the N-layer fluids are taken as zero, and the solutions also reduce to those obtained by Song (2005) for second-order solutions for random interfacial waves with steady uniform currents if N=2.

Depth inversion in coastal water based on SAR image of waves

Wave-number spectrum technique is proposed to retrieve coastal water depths by means of Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) image of waves. Based on the general dispersion relation of ocean waves, the wavelength changes of a surface wave over varying water depths can be derived from SAR. Approaching the analysis of SAR images of waves and using the general dispersion relation of ocean waves, this indirect technique of remote sensing bathymetry has been applied to a coastal region of Xiapu in Fujian Province, China. Results show that this technique is suitable for the coastal waters especially for the near-shore regions with variable water depths.

Numerical Simulation of Waves Generated by Seafloor Movements

Waves generated by vertical seafloor movements are simulated by use of a fully nonlinear two-dimensional numerical wave tank. In the source region, the seafloor lifts to a designated height by a generation function. The numerical tests show that file linear theory is only valid for estimating the wave behaviors induced by the seafloor movements with a small amplitude, and the fully nonlinear numerical model should be adopted in the simulation of the wave generation by the large amplitude seafloor movements. Without the background surface waves, many numerical tests on the stable maximum elevations eta(max)(0) are carried out by both the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. The results of two models are compared and analyzed. For the fully nonlinear model, the influences of the amplitudes and the horizontal lengths on eta(max)(0) are stronger than that of the characteristic duration times. Furthermore, results reveal that there are significant differences between the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. When the influences of the background surface waves are considered, the corresponding numerical analyses reveal that with the fully nonlinear model the eta(max)(0) near-linearly varies with the wave amplitudes of the surface waves, and the eta(max)(0) has significant dependences on the wave lengths and the wave phases of the surface waves. In addition, the differences between the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model are still obvious, aid these differences are significantly affected by The wave parameters of the background surface waves, such as the wave amplitude, the wave length and the wave phase.

Rossby waves with linear topography in barotropic fluids

Rossby waves are the most important waves in the atmosphere and ocean, and are parts of a large-scale system in fluid. The theory and observation show that, they satisfy quasi-geostrophic and quasi-static equilibrium approximations. In this paper, solitary Rossby waves induced by linear topography in barotropic fluids with a shear flow are studied. In order to simplify the problem, the topography is taken as a linear function of latitude variable y, then employing a weakly nonlinear method and a perturbation method, a KdV (Korteweg-de Vries) equation describing evolution of the amplitude of solitary Rossby waves induced by linear topography is derived. The results show that the variation of linear topography can induce the solitary Rossby waves in barotropic fluids with a shear flow, and extend the classical geophysical theory of fluid dynamics.

Numerical simulation and validation of ocean waves measured by an Along-Track Interferometric Synthetic Aperture Radar

A new nonlinear integral transform of ocean wave spectra into Along-Track Interferometric Synthetic Aperture Radar (ATI-SAR) image spectra is described. ATI-SAR phase image spectra are calculated for various sea states and radar configurations based on the nonlinear integral transform. The numerical simulations show that the slant range to velocity ratio (R/V), significant wave height to ocean wavelength ratio (H-s/lambda), the baseline (2B) and incident angle (theta) affect ATI-SAR imaging. The ATI-SAR imaging theory is validated by means of Two X-band, HH-polarized ATI-SAR phase images of ocean waves and eight C-band, HH-polarized ATI-SAR phase image spectra of ocean waves. It is shown that ATI-SAR phase image spectra are in agreement with those calculated by forward mapping in situ directional wave spectra collected simultaneously with available ATI-SAR observations. ATI-SAR spectral correlation coefficients between observed and simulated are greater than 0.6 and are not sensitive to the degree of nonlinearity. However, the ATI-SAR phase image spectral turns towards the range direction, even if the real ocean wave direction is 30 degrees. It is also shown that the ATI-SAR imaging mechanism is significantly affected by the degree of velocity bunching nonlinearity, especially for high values of R/V and H-s/lambda.

Effects of winds, tides and storm surges on ocean surface waves in the Sea of Japan

Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyo, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions.

Characteristics of nonlinear internal waves observed in the northern South China Sea

The South China Sea (SCS) is one of the most active areas of internal waves. We undertook a program of physical oceanography in the northern South China Sea from June to July of 2009, and conducted a 1-day observation from 15:40 of June 24 to 16:40 of June 25 using a chain of instruments, including temperature sensors, pressure sensors and temperature-pressure meters at a site (117.5A degrees E, 21A degrees N) northeast of the Dongsha Islands. We measured fluctuating tidal and subtidal properties with the thermistor-chain and a ship-mounted Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler, and observed a large-amplitude nonlinear internal wave passing the site followed by a number of small ones. To further investigate this phenomenon, we collected the tidal constituents from the TPXO7.1 dataset to evaluate the tidal characteristics at and around the recording site, from which we knew that the amplitude of the nonlinear internal wave was about 120 m and the period about 20 min. The horizontal and vertical velocities induced by the soliton were approximately 2 m/s and 0.5 m/s, respectively. This soliton occurred 2-3 days after a spring tide.

Remote sensing of ocean waves by polarimetric SAR

A new method to measure ocean wave slope spectra using fully polarimetric synthetic aperture radar (POLSAR) data was developed without the need for a complex hydrodynamic modulation transform function. There is no explicit use of a hydrodynamic modulation transfer function. This function is not clearly known and is based on hydrodynamic assumptions. The method is different from those developed by Schuler and colleagues or Pottier but complements their methods. The results estimated from NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory (JPL) Airborne Synthetic Aperture Radar (AIRSAR) C-band polarimetric SAR data show that the ocean wavelength, wave direction, and significant wave height are in agreement with buoy measurements. The proposed method can be employed by future satellite missions such as RADARSAT-2.

Highly nonlinear internal solitary waves over the continental shelf of the northwestern South China Sea

Large amplitude internal solitary waves (ISWs) often exhibit highly nonlinear effects and may contribute significantly to mixing and energy transporting in the ocean. We observed highly nonlinear ISWs over the continental shelf of the northwestern South China Sea (19A degrees 35'N, 112A degrees E) in May 2005 during the Wenchang Internal Wave Experiment using in-situ time series data from an array of temperature and salinity sensors, and an acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP). We summarized the characteristics of the ISWs and compared them with those of existing internal wave theories. Particular attention has been paid to characterizing solitons in terms of the relationship between shape and amplitude-width. Comparison between theoretical prediction and observation results shows that the high nonlinearity of these waves is better represented by the second-order extended Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) theory than the first-order KdV model. These results indicate that the northwestern South China Sea (SCS) is rich in highly nonlinear ISWs that are an indispensable part of the energy budget of the internal waves in the northern South China Sea.

Mud mass transport due to waves based on an empirical rheology model featured by hysteresis loop

A vertical 2-D water-mud numerical model is developed for estimating the rate of mud mass transport under wave action. A nonlinear semi-empirical rheology model featured by remarkable hysteresis loops in the relationships of the shear stress versus both the shear strain and the rate of shear strain of mud is applied to this water mud model. A logarithmic grid in the vertical direction is employed for numerical treatment, which increases the resolution of the flow in the neighborhood of both sides of the interface. Model verifications are given through comparisons between the calculated and the measured mud mass transport velocities as well as wave height changes. (C) 2006 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

A study of internal solitary waves observed on the continental shelf in the northwestern South China Sea

Based on in-situ time series data from the acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and thermistor chain in Wenchang area, a sequence of internal solitary wave (ISW) packets was observed in September 2005, propagating northwest on the continental shelf of the northwestern South China Sea (SCS). Corresponding to different stratification of the water column and tidal condition, both elevation and depression ISWs were observed at the same mooring location with amplitude of 35 m and 25 m respectively in different days. Regular arrival of the remarkable ISW packets at approximately the diurnal tidal period and the dominance of diurnal internal waves in the study area, strongly suggest that the main energy source of the waves is the diurnal tide. Notice that the wave packets were all riding on the troughs and shoulders of the internal tides, they were probably generated locally from the shelf break by the evolution of the internal tides due to nonlinear and dispersive effects.

Roles of equatorial waves and western boundary reflection in the seasonal circulation of the equatorial Indian Ocean

An ocean general circulation model (OGCM) is used to study the roles of equatorial waves and western boundary reflection in the seasonal circulation of the equatorial Indian Ocean. The western boundary reflection is defined as the total Kelvin waves leaving the western boundary, which include the reflection of the equatorial Rossby waves as well as the effects of alongshore winds, off-equatorial Rossby waves, and nonlinear processes near the western boundary. The evaluation of the reflection is based on a wave decomposition of the OGCM results and experiments with linear models. It is found that the alongshore winds along the east coast of Africa and the Rossby waves in the off-equatorial areas contribute significantly to the annual harmonics of the equatorial Kelvin waves at the western boundary. The semiannual harmonics of the Kelvin waves, on the other hand, originate primarily from a linear reflection of the equatorial Rossby waves. The dynamics of a dominant annual oscillation of sea level coexisting with the dominant semiannual oscillations of surface zonal currents in the central equatorial Indian Ocean are investigated. These sea level and zonal current patterns are found to be closely related to the linear reflections of the semiannual harmonics at the meridional boundaries. Because of the reflections, the second baroclinic mode resonates with the semiannual wind forcing; that is, the semiannual zonal currents carried by the reflected waves enhance the wind-forced currents at the central basin. Because of the different behavior of the zonal current and sea level during the reflections, the semiannual sea levels of the directly forced and reflected waves cancel each other significantly at the central basin. In the meantime, the annual harmonic of the sea level remains large, producing a dominant annual oscillation of sea level in the central equatorial Indian Ocean. The linear reflection causes the semiannual harmonics of the incoming and reflected sea levels to enhance each other at the meridional boundaries. In addition, the weak annual harmonics of sea level in the western basin, resulting from a combined effect of the western boundary reflection and the equatorial zonal wind forcing, facilitate the dominance by the semiannual harmonics near the western boundary despite the strong local wind forcing at the annual period. The Rossby waves are found to have a much larger contribution to the observed equatorial semiannual oscillations of surface zonal currents than the Kelvin waves. The westward progressive reversal of seasonal surface zonal currents along the equator in the observations is primarily due to the Rossby wave propagation.