Test of nourishment of the shore by offshore deposition of sand, Long Branch, New Jersey.

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Mine waste beach profile and flow resistance equations

Four mine waste beach longitudinal profile equations are compared theoretically and in statistical analyses of profile data from 64 field and laboratory beaches formed by mine tailings, co-disposed coal mine wastes, and sand. All four equations fit the profile data well. The best performing equation both accounts for particle sorting and satisfies hydraulic constraints, and the combination of assumptions underlying it is considered to best represent the processes occurring on mine waste beaches. Combining these assumptions with the Lacey normal equation leads to a variant of the Manning resistance equation. Features that it is desirable to incorporate in theoretical and numerical models of mine waste beaches are listed.

Sand and nest temperatures and an estimate of hatchling sex ratio from the Heron Island green turtle (Chelonia mydas) rookery, Southern Great Barrier Reef

Sand and nest temperatures were monitored during the 2002-2003 nesting season of the green turtle, Chelonia mydas, at Heron Island, Great Barrier Reef, Australia. Sand temperatures increased from similar to 24 degrees C early in the season to 27-29 degrees C in the middle, before decreasing again. Beach orientation affected sand temperature at nest depth throughout the season; the north facing beach remained 0.7 degrees C warmer than the east, which was 0.9 degrees C warmer than the south, but monitored nest temperatures were similar across all beaches. Sand temperature at 100 cm depth was cooler than at 40 cm early in the season, but this reversed at the end. Nest temperatures increased 2-4 degrees C above sand temperatures during the later half of incubation due to metabolic heating. Hatchling sex ratio inferred from nest temperature profiles indicated a strong female bias.

Swash-aquifer interaction in the vicinity of the water table exit point on a sandy beach

The coupling of sandy beach aquifers with the swash zone in the vicinity of the water table exit point is investigated through simultaneous measurements of the instantaneous shoreline (swash front) location, pore pressures and the water table exit point. The field observations reveal new insights into swash-aquifer coupling not previously gleaned from measurements of pore pressure only. In particular, for the case where the exit point is seaward of the observation point, the pore pressure response is correlated with the distance between the exit point and the shoreline in that when the distance is large the rate of pressure drop is fast and when the distance is small the rate decreases. The observations expose limitations in a simple model describing exit point dynamics which is based only on the force balance on a particle of water at the sand surface and neglects subsurface pressures. A new modified form of the model is shown to significantly improve the model-data comparison through a parameterization of the effects of capillarity into the aquifer storage coefficient. The model enables sufficiently accurate predictions of the exit point to determine when the swash uprush propagates over a saturated or a partially saturated sand surface, potentially an important factor in the morphological evolution of the beach face. Observations of the shoreward propagation of the swash-induced pore pressure waves ahead of the runup limit shows that the magnitude of the pressure fluctuation decays exponentially and that there is a linear increase in time lags, behavior similar to that of tidally induced water table waves. The location of the exit point and the intermittency of wave runup events is also shown to be significant in terms of the shore-normal energy distribution. Seaward of the mean exit point location, peak energies are small because of the saturated sand surface within the seepage face acting as a "rigid lid'' and limiting pressure fluctuations. Landward of the mean exit point the peak energies grow before decreasing landward of the maximum shoreline position.

(Table 2) Grain composition of sediments from ODP Hole 161-974B and from beach samples

Miocene to Pleistocene sand and sandstone were recovered at Ocean Drilling Program Site 974 in the Tyrrhenian Basin and Sites 976 and 977 in the Alboran Basin. Sand detrital modes were determined for 45 samples from these sites, as well as 10 samples of Spanish beach sand. At Site 974, the Pleistocene section includes a number of volcaniclastic (vitric ash) and terrigenous sand layers; the latter are heterogeneous and contain sedimentary and metamorphic lithic fragments. Submarine canyon and onshore drainage patterns suggest that the most likely source of this sediment is the Tiber River drainage basin in central Italy, where a Pleistocene volcanic field is superimposed on Apennine orogenic rocks. In contrast, the Miocene sand in Unit III at Site 974 may have been derived from local basement highs. The quartzolithic composition and preponderance of metamorphic and sedimentary lithic debris in sand samples from Unit II at Site 976, Unit I at Sites 977 and 978, and Unit I at Site 979 are consistent with derivation from metamorphic rocks and sedimentary cover sequences that crop out in the Betic Cordillera of southern Spain (976-978) and in the Rif of Northern Africa (979). The sedimentary to metamorphic lithic fragment ratios in these samples reflect the relative proportion of metamorphic and sedimentary rocks exposed in onshore source terranes. In contrast, the source of the few quartzose Pleistocene sands at Site 976 was likely the Flysch Trough Units that crop out near Gibraltar. The significant volcanic component in certain intervals at Sites 976 (upper Miocene) and 977 (lower Pliocene to Miocene) is consistent with widespread volcanic activity during basin inception and development. Mean sand detrital modes for sand subgroups from both the Alboran and Tyrrhenian Basin sites plot in the Recycled Orogenic and Magmatic Arc compositional fields of Dickinson et al. (1983, doi:10.1130/0016-7606(1983)94<222:PONAPS>2.0.CO;2), reflecting the hybrid tectonic histories of these basins.

San Francisco Coastal System grain size and geochemical data for sand provenance study

Over 150 million cubic meter of sand-sized sediment has disappeared from the central region of the San Francisco Bay Coastal System during the last half century. This enormous loss may reflect numerous anthropogenic influences, such as watershed damming, bay-fill development, aggregate mining, and dredging. The reduction in Bay sediment also appears to be linked to a reduction in sediment supply and recent widespread erosion of adjacent beaches, wetlands, and submarine environments. A unique, multi-faceted provenance study was performed to definitively establish the primary sources, sinks, and transport pathways of beach sized-sand in the region, thereby identifying the activities and processes that directly limit supply to the outer coast. This integrative program is based on comprehensive surficial sediment sampling of the San Francisco Bay Coastal System, including the seabed, Bay floor, area beaches, adjacent rock units, and major drainages. Analyses of sample morphometrics and biological composition (e.g., Foraminifera) were then integrated with a suite of tracers including 87Sr/86Sr and 143Nd/144Nd isotopes, rare earth elements, semi-quantitative X-ray diffraction mineralogy, and heavy minerals, and with process-based numerical modeling, in situ current measurements, and bedform asymmetry to robustly determine the provenance of beach-sized sand in the region.

Study of environmental radioactivity in Las Canteras beach

[EN]In this final degree work an assessment of the impact of environmental radioactivity, mainly on bathers of the most important beach in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (Las Canteras), has been done. For this purpose, the main radionuclides contained in intertidal superficial sand samples have been measured by using gamma spectrometry analysis. Also alpha activity of the beach water was determinated by means of ZnS(Ag) scintillation detector. The radioactivity detected was due to the natural occurring radionuclides 226Ra (238U- series), 232Th and 40K in sand samples with an average activity concentrations of 14.6±1.0, 17.4±1.0 and 528±24 Bq/kg, respectively. From these values, the outdoor annual effective dose was of 0.047 mSv/y, which is below to the world’s average value (0.07 mSv/y)

Observations of turbulence within the surf and swash zone of a field-scale sandy laboratory beach

Current coastal-evolution models generally lack the ability to accurately predict bed level change in shallow (<~2 m) water, which is, at least partly, due to the preclusion of the effect of surface-induced turbulence on sand suspension and transport. As a first step to remedy this situation, we investigated the vertical structure of turbulence in the surf and swash zone using measurements collected under random shoaling and plunging waves on a steep (initially 1:15) field-scale sandy laboratory beach. Seaward of the swash zone, turbulence was measured with a vertical array of three Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs), while in the swash zone two vertically spaced acoustic doppler velocimeter profilers (Vectrino profilers) were applied. The vertical turbulence structure evolves from bottom-dominated to approximately vertically uniform with an increase in the fraction of breaking waves to ~ 50%. In the swash zone, the turbulence is predominantly bottom-induced during the backwash and shows a homogeneous turbulence profile during uprush. We further find that the instantaneous turbulence kinetic energy is phase-coupled with the short-wave orbital motion under the plunging breakers, with higher levels shortly after the reversal from offshore to onshore motion (i.e. wavefront).

Abundância de ramos reprodutivos e produção de sementes em populações de Ipomoea pes-caprae (L.) R. Br. na Ilha de Santa Catarina, Brasil

The variation in the proportion of reproductive branches, fruit, and seed production of Ipomoea pes-caprae (L.) R. Br. (Convolvulaceae) were evaluated at ten beaches on Santa Catarina Island, state of Santa Catarina, Brazil. Three patches per beach of Ipomoea pes-caprae were monitored, involving two reproductive cycles. Ipomoea pes-caprae presented initially an average length of patches of 14 m, with 9.6 branches/m² and 39% of reproductive branches. The proportion of reproductive branches varied between the cycles, but there was not noticed an alternation of reproductive effort between the subsequent cycles. There was a reduction in the percentage of reproductive branches at six localities. In four beaches where Ipomoea pes-caprae populations declined, occurred reduction in the reproductive vigor, and in the seed production, being these declines associated to strong sea erosion. In another hand, in one beach with population increase, there were little reproductive branches due to the occurrence of young stolons. Four patches never maturated fruits, being three of these located at small beaches. The fruit and seed productions in the patches showed values up to 40 fruits/m² and up to 140 seeds/m², respectively. Populations with great seed production were localized in areas adjacent to great coastal plains, which may represent potential seed sources for areas with small seed production in the island.

Effects of temperature and salinity on the survival rates of coxicerberus ramosae (Albuquerque, 1978), an interstitial isopod of a Sandy Beach on the coast of Brazil

The tolerance to the combined effects of temperature and salinity was investigated in the interstitial isopod Coxicerberus ramosae (Albuquerque, 1978), a species of intertidal zone of sandy beaches in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The animals were collected on Praia Vermelha Beach. The experiments lasted 24 h and nine salinities and seven temperatures were used for a total of 63 combinations. Thirty animals were tested in each combination. The species showed high survival in most of the combinations. The temperature of 35 ºC was lethal and at 5 ºC, the animals tolerated only a narrow range of salinities. The statistical analyses showed that the effects of temperature and salinity were significant on the survival, which confirmed the euryhalinity and eurythermy of this species.

Atherinella blackburni (Schultz, 1949) at Itamambuca Beach, Ubatuba, SP: ecological characterization and distribution on the Brazilian coast (Teleostei: Atheriniformes: Atherinopsidae)

Atherinella blackburni is a silverside species whose occurrence on the Brazilian coast was not properly registered until recently. So far, records of its distribution along the Brazilian shore were limited to Itaparica Island, Bahia State, and Porto Inhaúma, Rio de Janeiro State. In a recent survey of the ichthyofauna of Itamambuca Beach, Ubatuba, São Paulo State, 100 specimens of this species were collected, yielding a considerable source of information regarding its ecology and a new southern limit of its distribution. A detailed survey of an ichthyological collection revealed lots of this species from regions of the Brazilian Northeast, resulting in a northward expansion of the occurrence of A. blackburni in Brazilian waters. Besides the populations found on the Brazilian coast, the species also occurs discontinuously in the Atlantic coasts of Costa Rica, Panama and Venezuela. Meristic and morphometric analysis showed overlapped values between Brazilian populations and the ones closer to the Caribbean. An ecological study of A. blackburni at Itamambuca Beach revealed that it is a predominantly diurnal species with preference for warm and salty waters, often occurring in sandy-bottom environments. It was more abundant in Summer and Winter, when individuals with smaller values of length and weight also occurred.

Ecological aspects of the surf-zone ichthyofauna of Itamambuca Beach, Ubatuba, SP

Sandy beaches are among the most extensive environments in Brazil and are generally threatened by disorderly urban growth due to their location along the coast, where human populations tend to concentrate. This is especially true in southeastern Brazil, where the largest urban areas are located. Thus, better knowledge regarding these natural resources is of considerable importance. The surf zone of sandy beaches is inhabited by a number of fish species, including juveniles seeking both food and shelter from predators. An ecological survey was conducted in the surf zone of Itamambuca beach in the city of Ubatuba, São Paulo State, Brazil, in order to evaluate the composition, structure and dynamics of the fish fauna using community descriptors. Diurnal and nocturnal samples were taken with a beach seine at five oceanographic stations over a 12-month period. Water temperature and salinity were also recorded. A total of 2,147 individuals representing 34 species and 18 families were sampled. The main variation in fish fauna was detected on the diel level, followed by a spatial repartition possibly related to salinity. Seasonal variation was also observed. The five most important species in the overall context were Atherinella brasiliensis, Eucinostomus melanopterus, Mugil sp., Trachinotus goodei and Atherinella blackburni.

Headland-bay beach planform stability of Santa Catarina State and of the Northern Coast of São Paulo State

This paper presents the results of the planform stability classification for the headland-bay beaches of the State of Santa Catarina and of the Northern Coast of São Paulo, based on the application of the Parabolic Bay-Shape Equation (PBSE) to aerial images of the beaches, using the software MEPBAY®. For this purpose, georeferenced mosaics of the QuickBird2® satellite imagery (for the State of Santa Catarina) and vertical aerial photographs (for the northern coast of São Paulo State) were used. Headland-bay beach planform stability can be classified as: (1) in static equilibrium, (2) in dynamic equilibrium, (3) unstable or (4) in a state of natural beach reshaping. Static equilibrium beaches are the most frequent along the coast of the State of Santa Catarina and the Northern Shore of São Paulo, notably along the most rugged sectors of the coast and those with experiencing lower fluvial discharge. By comparison, dynamic equilibrium beaches occur primarily on the less rugged sectors of the coast and along regions with higher fluvial discharge. Beaches in a state of natural beach reshaping have only been found in SC, associated with stabilized estuarine inlets or port breakwaters. However, it is not possible to classify any of these beaches as unstable because only one set of images was used. No clear relation was observed between a beach's planform stability and other classification factors, such as morphodynamics or orientation.