Paris 1947 : The woman of fashion

Paris 1947 is the site of one of twentieth century fashion’s fictive highpoints. The New Look combined drama and poetics through an abiding rhetoric of elegance. In doing so it employed traditional modes of femininity, casting the woman of fashion in the guise of an ambiguous ‘new’ figure: half fairytale princess, half evil witch. This fashionable ideal was widely disseminated through key photographic representations, Willy Maywald’s 1947 image of the Bar Suit being a case in point. It was precisely such mythic formulations of ‘woman’ which Simone de Beauvoir was to take to task just two years later with the publication of The Second Sex. Driven by frustration with the status quo of real women, de Beauvoir recognised the role of fictive representations, both textual and visual in defining women. This paper reads key sections of The Second Sex through a comparative analysis of two iconic images of French women from 1947; Cartier-Bresson’s classic portrait of de Beauvoir and Willy Mayhold’s spectacular evocation of Christian Dior’s New Look. Cued by a compelling range of similarities between these images this paper explores links between fashion, feminism and fiction in mid-century French culture.

Vibrational spectroscopy of the phosphate mineral lazulite – (Mg, Fe)Al2(PO4)2·(OH)2 found in the Minas Gerais, Brazil

This research was done on lazulite samples from the Gentil mine, a lithium bearing pegmatite located in the municipality of Mendes Pimentel, Minas Gerais, Brazil. Chemical analysis was carried out by electron microprobe analysis and indicated a magnesium rich phase with partial substitution of iron. Traces of Ca and Mn, (which partially replaced Mg) were found. The calculated chemical formula of the studied sample is: (Mg0.88, Fe0.11)Al1.87(PO4)2.08(OH)2.02. The Raman spectrum of lazulite is dominated by an intense sharp band at 1060 cm-1 assigned to PO stretching vibrations of of tetrahedral [PO4] clusters presents into the HPO2/4- units. Two Raman bands at 1102 and 1137 cm-1 are attributed to both the HOP and PO antisymmetric stretching vibrations. The two infrared bands at 997 and 1007 cm-1 are attributed to the m1 PO3/4- symmetric stretching modes. The intense bands at 1035, 1054, 1081, 1118 and 1154 cm-1 are assigned to the v3PO3/4- antisymmetric stretching modes from both the HOP and tetrahedral [PO4] clusters. A set of Raman bands at 605, 613, 633 and 648 cm-1 are assigned to the m4 out of plane bending modes of the PO4, HPO4 and H2PO4 units. Raman bands observed at 414, 425, 460, and 479 cm-1 are attributed to the m2 tetrahedral PO4 clusters, HPO4 and H2PO4 bending modes. The intense Raman band at 3402 and the infrared band at 3403 cm-1 are assigned to the stretching vibration of the OH units. A combination of Raman and infrared spectroscopy enabled aspects of the molecular structure of the mineral lazulite to be understood.

Habituated objects : everyday tangibles that foster the independent living of an elderly woman

The boundaries between 'the digital' and our everyday physical world are dissolving as we develop more physical ways of interacting with computing. This forum presents some of the topics discussed in the colorful multidisciplinary field of tangible and embodied interaction

Assessment of the molecular structure of natrodufrénite – NaFe2+Fe3+5(PO4)4(OH)6•2(H2O), a secondary pegmatite phosphate mineral from Minas Gerais, Brazil

The mineral natrodufrénite a secondary pegmatite phosphate mineral from Minas Gerais, Brazil, has been studied by a combination of scanning electron microscopy and vibrational spectroscopic techniques. Electron probe analysis shows the formula of the studied mineral as (Na0.88Ca0.12)∑1.00(Mn0.11Mg0.08Ca0.04Zr0.01Cu0.01)∑0.97(Al0.02)∑4.91(PO4)3.96(OH6.15F0.07)6.22⋅2.05(H2O). Raman spectroscopy identifies an intense peak at 1003 cm−1 assigned to the ν1 symmetric stretching mode. Raman bands are observed at 1059 and 1118 cm−1 and are attributed to the ν3 antisymmetric stretching vibrations. A comparison is made with the spectral data of other hydrate hydroxy phosphate minerals including cyrilovite and wardite. Raman bands at 560, 582, 619 and 668 cm−1 are assigned to the ν4 bending modes and Raman bands at 425, 444, 477 and 507 cm−1 are due to the ν2 bending modes. Raman bands in the 2600–3800 cm−1 spectral range are attributed to water and OH stretching vibrations. Vibrational spectroscopy enables aspects of the molecular structure of natrodufrénite to be assessed.

Writing the oriental woman : an examination of the representation of Japanese women in contemporary Australian crime fiction

This study considers the challenges in representing women from other cultures in the crime fiction genre. The study is presented in two parts; an exegesis and a creative practice component consisting of a full length crime fiction novel, Batafurai. The exegesis examines the historical period of a section of the novel—post-war Japan—and how the area of research known as Occupation Studies provides an insight into the conditions of women during this period. The exegesis also examines selected postcolonial theory and its exposition of representations of the 'other' as a western construct designed to serve Eurocentric ends. The genre of crime fiction is reviewed, also, to determine how characters purportedly representing Oriental cultures are constricted by established stereotypes. Two case studies are examined to investigate whether these stereotypes are still apparent in contemporary Australian crime fiction. Finally, I discuss my own novel, Batafurai, to review how I represented people of Asian background, and whether my attempts to resist stereotype were successful. My conclusion illustrates how novels written in the crime fiction genre are reliant on strategies that are action-focused, rather than character-based, and thus often use easily recognizable types to quickly establish frameworks for their stories. As a sub-set of popular fiction, crime fiction has a tendency to replicate rather than challenge established stereotypes. Where it does challenge stereotypes, it reflects a territory that popular culture has already visited, such as the 'female', 'black' or 'gay' detective. Crime fiction also has, as one of its central concerns, an interest in examining and reinforcing the notion of societal order. It repeatedly demonstrates that crime either does not pay or should not pay. One of the ways it does this is to contrast what is 'good', known and understood with what is 'bad', unknown, foreign or beyond our normal comprehension. In western culture, the east has traditionally been employed as the site of difference, and has been constantly used as a setting of contrast, excitement or fear. Crime fiction conforms to this pattern, using the east to add a richness and depth to what otherwise might become a 'dry' tale. However, when used in such a way, what is variously eastern, 'other' or Oriental can never be paramount, always falling to secondary side of the binary opposites (good/evil, known/unknown, redeemed/doomed) at work. In an age of globalisation, the challenge for contemporary writers of popular fiction is to be responsive to an audience that demands respect for all cultures. Writers must demonstrate that they are sensitive to such concerns and can skillfully manage the tensions caused by the need to deliver work that operates within the parameters of the genre, and the desire to avoid offence to any cultural or ethnic group. In my work, my strategy to manage these tensions has been to create a back-story for my characters of Asian background, developing them above mere genre types, and to situate them with credibility in time and place through appropriate historical research.

In-side-out : photojournalists from community and mainstream media organisations in Brazil's favelas

New media initiatives in Brazil's capital, Rio de Janeiro, are attempting to change mainstream ideas about favelas (poor districts) and their inhabitants. This thesis focuses on two of these initiatives that are being run by non-government organisations, Viva Favela and Imagens do Povo. This study takes an ethnographic and discursive approach to investigating and comparing two categories of professional photographers to determine how their working practices contribute to empowering the people living in Brazil's favelas. While mainstream photojournalists mainly cover human rights abuses in the favelas, community photographers challenge stereotypes by presenting images of the favelas' everyday life.

The effects of a woman-focused, woman-held resource on preventive health behaviors during pregnancy : the pregnancy pocketbook

We evaluated the effectiveness of a woman-held pregnancy record ('The Pregnancy Pocketbook') on improving health behaviors important for maternal and infant health. The Pregnancy Pocketbook was developed as a woman-focused preventive approach to pregnancy health based on antenatal management guidelines, behavior-change evidence, and formative research with the target population and health service providers. The Pregnancy Pocketbook was evaluated using a quasi-experimental, two-group design; one clinic cohort received the Pregnancy Pocketbook (n = 163); the other received Usual Care (n = 141). Smoking, fruit and vegetable intake, and physical activity were assessed at baseline (service-entry) and 12-weeks. Approximately two-thirds of women in the Pregnancy Pocketbook clinic recalled receiving the resource. A small, but significantly greater proportion of women at the Pregnancy Pocketbook site (7.6%) than the UC site (2.1%) quit smoking. No significant effect was observed of the Pregnancy Pocketbook on fruit and vegetable intake or physical activity. Few women completed sections that required health professional assistance. The Pregnancy Pocketbook produced small, but significant effects on smoking cessation, despite findings that indicate minimal interaction about the resource between health staff and the women in their care. A refocus of antenatal care toward primary prevention is required to provide essential health information and behavior change tools more consistently for improved maternal and infant health outcomes.

'You can name her' : ritualised grieving by an Australian woman for her stillborn twin

The stillbirth of an Australian infant in the mid-20th Century was an event often left unacknowledged. Mothers of stillborn babies were often told to 'forget about it and have another baby.' Siblings of these babies were often not encouraged to discuss them, and were even left unaware of their birth and death. This paper explores this phenomenon in an Australian case study. When Nancy was born in 1937, her twin sister was stillborn. As was customary at that time, the deceased baby was buried unnamed in an unmarked plot without ceremony. Little was said of her thereafter. Seventy-three years later, Nancy finally undertook a number of activities with ritualised features that acknowledged, named, mourned and honoured her sister.

David Williamson's The Club : football politic, a dirty story

Watching David Williamson’s The Club (Bruce Beresford, 1980) now, as a scandal over performance‐enhancing drugs threatens to destroy at least one AFL club and permanently taint the League’s credibility, while in another form of football a player is bought and sold for a world record fee of almost $150 million, the indignant outrage of the film’s coach and players over the $120,000 fee paid for a pot‐smoking raw recruit appears quaint and comic in unintended ways. Were it ever true, it seems harder than ever now to agree with Nick Parson’s assertion that ‘in Australia the only sphere of endeavour that is considered morally pure is sport.

Woman abuse in Canada : sociological reflections on the past, suggestions for the future

Woman abuse in Canada started receiving much sociological attention in the mid-1980s. This article describes past scholarly achievements, assesses current contributions, and suggests progressive ways of responding to future challenges. Special attention is given to how broader political economic forces help shape and constrain research on a variety of highly injurious male-to-female assaults that occur in private settings.

The Australian mining industry and the ideal mining woman : mobilizing a public business case for gender equality

Despite ongoing ‘boom’ conditions in the Australian mining industry, women remain substantially and unevenly under-represented in the sector, as is the case in other resource-dependent countries. Building on the literature critiquing business-case rationales and strategies as a means to achieve women’s equality in the workplace, we examine the business case for employing more women as advanced by the Australian mining industry. Specifically, we apply a discourse analysis to seven substantial, publically-available documents produced by the industry’s national and state peak organizations between 2005 and 2013. Our study makes two contributions. First, we map the features of the business case at the sectoral rather than firm or workplace level and examine its public mobilization. Second, we identify the construction and deployment of a normative identity – ‘the ideal mining woman’ – as a key outcome of this business-case discourse. Crucially, women are therein positioned as individually responsible for gender equality in the workplace.