The interaction of flexural-gravity waves with periodic geometries

A periodic structure of finite extent is embedded within an otherwise uniform two-dimensional system consisting of finite-depth fluid covered by a thin elastic plate. An incident harmonic flexural-gravity wave is scattered by the structure. By using an approximation to the corresponding linearised boundary value problem that is based on a slowly varying structure in conjunction with a transfer matrix formulation, a method is developed that generates the whole solution from that for just one cycle of the structure, providing both computational savings and insight into the scattering process. Numerical results show that variations in the plate produce strong resonances about the ‘Bragg frequencies’ for relatively few periods. We find that certain geometrical variations in the plate generate these resonances above the Bragg value, whereas other geometries produce the resonance below the Bragg value. The familiar resonances due to periodic bed undulations tend to be damped by the plate.

Asymptotic soliton train solutions of Kaup-Boussinesq equations

Asymptotic soliton trains arising from a 'large and smooth' enough initial pulse are investigated by the use of the quasiclassical quantization method for the case of Kaup-Boussinesq shallow water equations. The parameter varying along the soliton train is determined by the Bohr-Sommerfeld quantization rule which generalizes the usual rule to the case of 'two potentials' h(0)(x) and u(0)(x) representing initial distributions of height and velocity, respectively. The influence of the initial velocity u(0)(x) on the asymptotic stage of the evolution is determined. Excellent agreement of numerical solutions of the Kaup-Boussinesq equations with predictions of the asymptotic theory is found. (C) 2003 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Biodiversidade de caranguejos Branquiúros (Crustacea, Decapoda) associada a bancos da alga Sargassum cymosum (C. Agardh, 1820) na região da Ubatuba, Litoral Norte Paulista

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Efeitos de descontinuidades na propagação de ondas em estruturas unidimensionais

Pós-graduação em Engenharia Mecânica - FEIS

Light waves and their uses /

Includes index.

The energy transport properties of one dimensional anharmonic lattices.

Vita.

Water flow about a swimming fish /

Mode of access: Internet.

Hydrofoil motions in irregular seas. DL Project MK 2465.

"AD 292 965."

The effect of waves on the ideal fluid forces acting on a slender axisymmetric body having three degrees of freedom /

Mode of access: Internet.

Wind, sea and swell : theory of relations for forecasting /

Mode of access: Internet.

Light waves and their uses /

"This series of eight lectures ... was delivered in the spring of 1899 at the Lowell institute." - Pref.

Simplified method for estimating refraction and shoaling effects on ocean waves /

"November 1975."

Organic matter deposition/resuspension in a one-dimensional physical-biogeochemical model. A modelling study

The shallow water configuration of the gulf of Trieste allows the propagation of the stress due to wind and waves along the whole water column down to the bottom. When the stress overcomes a particular threshold it produces resuspension processes of the benthic detritus. The benthic sediments in the North Adriatic are rich of organic matter, transported here by many rivers. This biological active particulate, when remaining in the water, can be transported in all the Adriatic basin by the basin-wide circulation. In this work is presented a first implementation of a resuspension/deposition submodel in the oceanographic coupled physical-biogeochemical 1-dimensional numerical model POM-BFM. At first has been considered the only climatological wind stress forcing, next has been introduced, on the surface, an annual cycle of wave motion and finally have been imposed some exceptional wave event in different periods of the year. The results show a strong relationship between the efficiency of the resuspension process and the stratification of the water column. During summer the strong stratification can contained a great quantity of suspended matter near to the bottom, while during winter even a low concentration of particulate can reach the surface and remains into the water for several months without settling and influencing the biogeochemical system. Looking at the biologic effects, the organic particulate, injected in the water column, allow a sudden growth of the pelagic bacteria which competes with the phytoplankton for nutrients strongly inhibiting its growth. This happen especially during summer when the suspended benthic detritus concentration is greater.

The effects of permeable bed on waves setup

Generally the flow properties of rivers, estuaries and coastal seas are highly dependent on the bed morphology. These include mainly three flow parameters, as bed shear stress, velocity profile and turbulent fluctuations. Here we investigate the effects of permeate of the bed on these flow properties We consider the effects of suction (W0) injection (W0) on these flow properties particularly the bottom stress. Four types of bottom permeability with different size of sand have been tested. The results indicate a substantial reduction and enhancement of the bed stress under respectively injection and suction as has been observed by others on wave motion in shallow seas. We consider 5 waves to shore with this rang of wave steepness ( 0/015 < so < 0/05 ) . Cr Calculated used of mansard method (1980). We search the stream line of current in bed with a video camera and looking this. Near the surface and the deep of bed and consider V=W (in or su)/ U(ru or rd) and bottom stress for 6 period of this study with Canly and Inman studies (1994). All these results are shown by curves with the effects of permeable bed.