Study of Australian alpaca fibres

This work represents the first systematic study on the properties and processing performance of Australian alpaca fibres. The resistance to compression behaviour of alpaca fibres was found to differ considerably from that of wool. A new technique has been developed to objectively measure the softness of fibres. The bleaching and dyeing behaviour of alpaca fibres has also been examined.

A study of the photodegradation of protein fibres and fabrics

The photodegradation of protein fibres such as wool and silk has become a serious issue for both the fibre research community and the textile industry. This PhD project has used several novel techniques to tackle this challenging research topic. The results provide significant new insights into the mechanism of photodegradation.

Recent research on natural fibres and textiles

This paper provides an overview of recent research on a range of natural fibres and textiles. The focus is on work carried out at Deakin University’s Centre for Material and Fibre Innovation, which is a multidisciplinary research centre with over 100 researchers. The fibres include hemp, wool, silk, and alpaca fibres. Research on yarns, fabrics, and fine powders made from wool and silk fibres are briefly discussed also.

The within-fibre diameter variation of wool has been examined systematically, which highlights the importance of this hard-to-measure fibre attribute. A relationship between hemp fibre fineness and residual gum content has been established, which provides a rapid means of assessing the residual gum content in the degummed hemp fibres. Silk and wool fibres have been converted into ultrafine powders for advanced applications. The Resistance to Compression (RtC) behaviour of wool and alpaca fibres has been closely examined, which challenges the belief that RtC is a good indicator of fibre softness. Ways of reducing the hairiness of natural fibre yarns, predicting the pilling propensity of wool knits, and functionalising fabrics for superhydrophobicity and photochromic or colour changing effects are discussed.

The impact of textile wet colouration on the environment in 2011

Wet textile colouration has the highest environmental impact of all textile processing steps. It consumes water, chemicals and energy and produces liquid, heat and gas waste streams. Liquid effluent streams are often quite toxic to the environment. There are a number of different dyeing processes, normally fibre type specific, and each has a different impact on the environment. This research investigated the energy, chemical and water requirements for the exhaust colouration of cotton, wool, polyester and nylon. The research investigated the liquid waste biological and chemical oxygen demand, salinity, pH and colour along with the energy required for drying after colouration. Polyester fibres had the lowest impact on the environment with lowest water and energy consumption in dyeing, good dye bath exhaustion, the lowest salinity levels in their effluent, relatively neutral pH effluent and low energy in drying. The wool and nylon had similar dye bath requirements and outputs however the nylon could be dyed at far lower liquor ratios and hence provided better energy and water use figures. The cotton and wool required high energy consumption in drying after colouration. Cotton performed poorly in all of the measured parameters.

The impact of textile wet colouration on the environment in 2011

Wet textile colouration has the highest environmental impact of all textile processing steps. It consumes water, chemicals and energy and produces liquid, heat and gas waste streams. Liquid effluent streams are often quite toxic to the environment. There are a number of different dyeing processes, normally fibre type specific, and each has a different impact on the environment. This research investigated the energy, chemical and water requirements for the exhaust colouration of cotton, wool, polyester and nylon. The research investigated the liquid waste biological oxygen demand, total organic carbon dissolved solids, suspended solids, pH and colour along with the energy required for drying after colouration. Polyester fibres had the lowest impact on the environment with low water and energy consumption in dyeing, good dye bath exhaustion, the lowest dissolved solids levels in waste water, relatively neutral pH effluent and low energy in drying. The wool and nylon had similar dyebath requirements and outputs however the nylon could be dyed at far lower liquor ratios and hence provided better energy and water use figures. Cotton performed badly in all of the measured parameters.

Properties, processing and performance of rare and natural fibres : a review and interpretation of existing research results

A substantial up-to-date reference manual has been prepared which documents important issues for the supply chain of rare natural animal fibres. New developments in textiles have been included. Cashmere, mohair and camelid fibres have special properties of softness, smoothness and lustre, when compared with sheep wool. They also have other attributes which affect market prices and consumer perceptions, such as being rare and exotic luxuries, and are associated with expensive, comfortable and exclusive garments. These fibres add to the range of wool processing, and add value to wool textiles. Generally, knowledge about these animal fibres is limited, and research effort small compared with research into wool and other natural and man-made fibres. Compared with wool, rare natural animal fibres are more difficult and costly to process. Knowledge about processing these fibres is kept guarded as industrial knowledge. There are problems with clearly identifying rare natural animal fibres when goods are traded or fibres are blended, and fraud is a major concern for textile manufacturers and industry groups. Prickle discomfort in mohair and alpaca next-to-skin wear is a major concern for consumers and textile manufacturers. Natural colours, whiteness and yellowness of rare natural animal fibres are important fibre attributes for dyers and consumers, and the current products have both positive and negative colour attributes for processors. Past investments by RIRDC have made substantial gains in knowledge about fundamental and applied areas of knowledge on the properties, testing and processing performance of rare natural animal fibres.

Variation in the softness and fibre curvature of cashmere, alpaca, mohair and other rare animal fibres

Softness of apparel textiles is a major attribute sought by consumers. There is surprisingly little objective information on the softness properties of rare animal fibres, particularly cashmere, alpaca and mohair. Samples of these and other rare animal fibres from different origins of production and processors were objectively measured for fibre diameter, fibre curvature (FC, crimp) and resistance to compression (softness). While there were curvilinear responses of resistance to compression to FC and to mean fibre diameter, FC accounted for much more of the variance in resistance to compression. Fibre type was an important determinant of resistance to compression. The softest fibres were alpaca, mohair and cashgora and all of the fibres measured were softer than most Merino wool. Quivet, llama, camel, guanaco, vicuña, yak wool, bison wool, dehaired cow down and Angora rabbit were also differentiated from alpaca, mohair and cashmere. There were important differences in the softness and FC of cashmere from different origins with cashmere from newer origins of production (Australia, New Zealand and USA) having lower resistance to compression than cashmere from traditional sources of China and Iran. Cashmere from different origins was differentiated on the basis of resistance to compression, FC and fibre diameter. Cashgora was differentiated from cashmere by having a lower FC and lower resistance to compression. There were minority effects of colour and fibre diameter variation on resistance to compression of cashmere. The implications of these findings for the identification and use of softer raw materials are discussed.

Improving knowledge, fibre and textile quality, and communications

This is a technical report summarising activities to improve the knowledge about rare natural animal fibres in Australia, including aspects of their production, fibre quality, and textiles made from these fibres. It summarises results of Australian investment on these subjects, and makes recommendations about future investment. This is important, as there is limited scientific understanding of how to improve productivity, quality and financial returns from these industries in Australia.

Properties of bamboo fibres produced using an environmentally benign method

The properties of bamboo fibres extracted from raw bamboo plants in an environmentally benign manner were investigated. To reduce environmental impacts of the manufacturing process, microwave, ultra-sonication and enzyme were used to extract the bamboo fibres, avoiding the use of hazardous chemicals. The new method enabled the extraction of single fibres while retaining a certain quantity of lignin in fibre. The retained lignin allowed the fibre to possess UV absorption and antibacterial properties, which will be advantageous for many textile applications.

Feltability of cashmere and other rare animal fibres and the effects of nutrition and blending with wool on cashmere feltability

Felting is a unique attribute of animal fibres used for the production of a range of industrial and apparel textiles. Felting can be an adverse attribute as a consequence of dimensional shrinkage during laundering. As there is little objective information regarding the feltability of rare animal fibres or the factors which may affect felting three investigations were undertaken. A survey (n = 114) of the feltability of cashmere from different origins of production, cashgora, quivet, camel hair, llama, guanaco, bison wool, cow fibre and yak wool quantified the large variation between and within these fibre types. Cashmere from some origins and cashgora produced higher feltball density than the other fibres. Different nutritional management of cashmere goats (n = 35) showed that cashmere grown by poorly fed goats had a lower propensity to felt compared with cashmere grown by better fed goats. A consequence of the progressive blending of cashmere (n = 27) with a low propensity to felt superfine wool (high fibre curvature) increased the propensity of the blend to felt, but when the same cashmere was blended with low curvature superfine wool, there was little or no effect on feltability. The mechanisms which lead to variance in feltability of these fibres were quantified with multiple regression modelling. The mechanisms were similar to those reported for wools, namely variations in the resistance to compression, fibre curvature and mean fibre diameter, with likely effects of fibre crimp form. It is possible to source cashmere and other animal fibres which have different propensities to felt and therefore to produce textiles which are likely to have different textile properties.

Performance comparison of abrasion resistant textile motorcycle clothing

 Falling at speed onto a tarmac surface during cycling can cause abrasion and laceration of the skin and body tissue. Motorcycle clothing designed to reduce or avoid this type of injury has traditionally been made of animal leather as it has well known resistance to abrasion. In the last 20 years there has been an emergence of textile clothing reinforced with high performance/tenacity fibres such as those made from polyamides, aramids, ultra high molecular weight polyethylene and liquid crystal. Almost no comparative work has been undertaken to provide insight into the level of protection these clothing layers can provide.
This work has used a CE standard test method to evaluate a number of abrasion resistant textile pant products and compare them with a leather race product. It analysed the protective fabric layer structure for mass, thickness, construction method and resistance to abrasion.
Structures manufactured from high tenacity fibres performed better than those from lower tenacity ones. Fabric construction method and mass per unit area were the two key variables in providing an abrasion protective layer. Structures manufactured from knitted para-aramid fibres performed better than their woven counterparts due to the method of fabric failure. Several well designed protective layers performed at a similar level to that of leather; however, most garments tested failed to meet the lower level European standard of abrasion resistance (CE level 1), which may put their wearer at risk in the advent of a collision.

Review on fabrication and applications of ultrafine particles from animal protein fibres

Protein fibre wastes from animal hairs, feathers and insect secreted filaments can be aptly utilized by converting them into ultra-fine particles. Particles from animal protein fibres present large surface-to-weight ratio and significantly enhanced surface reactivity, that have opened up novel applications in both textile and non-textile fields. This review article summarizes the state-of-the-art routes to fabricate ultrafine particles from animal protein fibres, including direct route of mechanical milling of fibres and indirect route from fibre proteins. Ongoing research trends in novel applications of protein fibre particles in various fields, such as biomedical science, environmental protection and composite structures are presented. © 2014 The Korean Fiber Society and Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht.

Effects of fibre parameters on the ultraviolet protection of fibre assemblies

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation protection is becoming increasingly necessary for human health, and textiles play an important role. The interaction between UV light and textiles is a complex one, involving fibre, yarn and fabric parameters. In this study, an optical model is presented for examining the influences of fibre parameters on the UV protection offered by a bundle of fibres with a given mass. The effects of mean fibre diameter and fibre type on UV absorption were examined. The model was verified with results of UV–visible diffuse reflectance measurements on natural and synthetic fibres. When the mass of fibres was kept constant, within the measurement range in this study, a bundle of fibres with coarser fibres had a lower UV reflectance than that with finer ones. The model accurately predicted factors influencing UV protection, including fibre diameter, fibre transmittance, porosity and refractive index.

Assessment of water contamination caused by a mutagenic textile effluent/dyehouse effluent bearing disperse dyes

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)