Nourishing or polluting : redefining the role of waste in the fashion system

Waste is intrinsic to the fashion system. Fashion is predicated on built-in obsolescence, and as such outmoded garments are rapidly discarded to charity shops or landfill. However, the story of fashion is also one of abundance and extravagance in design ideas. Every season there are new design details – prints, embroidery, embellishments, shapes and textures. This excess of ideas is in itself another form of waste, albeit one that is culturally nourishing. The grave of a fashion garment may also be the grave of a season’s research and creativity. This paper compares the tangible waste of the industry with its intangible waste, namely fashion’s creativity and cultural excess. Fashion’s excess and abundance of trends and ideas makes any move to curb the environmental impact difficult. For all practitioners of fashion – whether designers or consumers – the waste and excess inherent in the fashion system is a difficult ethical terrain to negotiate. However, inverting the wasteful phases of the production cycle can help reframe waste from pollution to a source of nourishment for future practice. While creative excesses of designers may be ‘wasted’ after a season, fashion styles and tropes are recycled and reinvented, with the once passé styles and design ideas from previous years revalorized and returned into the fashion system. Similarly, material garments acquire new value through entering or re-entering the second hand or vintage markets. Design processes can utilise pre or post-consumer textile waste, or eliminate waste through design. In these processes, waste becomes the primary source of nourishment for future fashion cycles.

Improvement of the statutory framework for construction and demolition waste management exemplified in Germany and Australia

Construction and demolition (C&D) waste occupies the largest share of overall waste generation in many countries. However, waste management practices and outcomes may differ between countries. For instance, in Australia, C&D waste recovery is continuously improving during the last years but the amount of C&D waste increases every year, as there has been little improvement in waste avoidance and minimization. In contrast, in Germany, waste generation remains constant over many years despite the continuous economic growth. The waste recycling rate in Germany is one of the highest in the world. However, most waste recycled is from demolition work rather than from waste generated during new construction. In addition, specific laws need to be developed to further reduce landfill of non-recycled waste. Despite of the differences, C&D waste generation and recovery in both countries depend on the effectiveness of the statutory framework, which regulates their waste management practices. This is an issue in other parts of the world as well. Therefore countries can learn from each other to improve their current statutory framework for C&D waste management. By taking Germany and Australia as an example, possible measures to improve current practices of C&D waste management through better statutory tools are identified in this paper. After providing an overview of the statutory framework of both countries and their status in waste generation and recovery, a SWOT analysis is conducted to identify strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats of the statutory tools. Recommendations to improve the current statutory frameworks, in order to achieve less waste generation and more waste recovery in the construction industry are provided for the German and Australian government and they can also be transferred to other countries.

A waste management system for small and medium enterprises engaged in office building retrofit projects

Waste management and minimisation is considered to be an important issue for achieving sustainability in the construction industry. Retrofit projects generate less waste than demolitions and new builds, but they possess unique features and require waste management approaches that are different to traditional new builds. With the increasing demand for more energy efficient and environmentally sustainable office spaces, the office building retrofit market is growing in capital cities around Australia with a high level of refurbishment needed for existing aging properties. Restricted site space and uncertain delivery process in these projects make it a major challenge to manage waste effectively. The labour-intensive nature of retrofit projects creates the need for the involvement of small and medium enterprises (SMEs) as subcontractors in on-site works. SMEs are familiar with on-site waste generation but are not as actively motivated and engaged in waste management activities as the stakeholders in other construction projects in the industry. SMEs’ responsibilities for waste management in office building retrofit projects need to be identified and adapted to the work delivery processes and the waste management system supported by project stakeholders. The existing literature provides an understanding of how to manage construction waste that is already generated and how to increase the waste recovery rate for office building retrofit projects. However, previous research has not developed theories or practical solutions that can guide project stakeholders to understand the specific waste generation process and effectively plan for and manage waste in ongoing project works. No appropriate method has been established for the potential role and capability of SMEs to manage and minimise waste from their subcontracting works. This research probes into the characteristics of office building retrofit project delivery with the aim to develop specific tools to manage waste and incorporate SMEs in this process in an appropriate and effective way. Based on an extensive literature review, the research firstly developed a questionnaire survey to identify the critical factors of on-site waste generation in office building retrofit projects. Semi-structured interviews were then utilised to validate the critical waste factors and establish the interrelationships between the factors. The interviews served another important function of identifying the current problems of waste management in the industry and the performance of SMEs in this area. Interviewees’ opinions on remedies to the problems were also collected. On the foundation of the findings from the questionnaire survey and semi-structured interviews, two waste planning and management strategies were identified for the dismantling phase and fit-out phase of office building retrofit projects, respectively. Two models were then established to organize SMEs’ waste management activities, including a work process-based integrated waste planning model for the dismantling phase and a system dynamics model for the fit-out phase. In order to apply the models in real practice, procedures were developed to guide SMEs’ work flow in on-site waste planning and management. In addition, a collaboration framework was established for SMEs and other project stakeholders for effective waste planning and management. Furthermore, an organisational engagement strategy was developed to improve SME waste management practices. Three case studies were conducted to validate and finalise the research deliverables. This research extends the current literature that mostly covers waste management plans in new build projects, by presenting the knowledge and understanding of addressing waste problems in retrofit projects. It provides practical tools and guidance for industry practitioners to effectively manage the waste generation processes in office building retrofit projects. It can also promote industry-level recognition of the role of SMEs and their performance in on-site waste management.

Nature and genesis of clay minerals of the Rustler Formation in the vicinity of the Waste Isolation Pilot Plant in Souteastern New Mexico

Detailed mineralogical studies of the matrix and fracture-fill materials of a large number of samples from the Rustler Formation have been carried out using x-ray diffraction, high-resolution transmission electron microscopy, electron microprobe analysis, x-ray fluorescence, and atomic absorption spectrophotometry. These analyses indicate the presence of four clay minerals: interstratified chlorite/saponite, illite, chlorite, and serpentine. Corrensite (regularly stratified chlorite/saponite) is the dominant clay mineral in samples from the Culebra dolomite and two shale layers of the lower unnamed member of the Rustler Formation. Within other layers of the Rustler Formation, disordered mixed chlorite/saponite is usually the most abundant clay mineral. Studies of the morphology and composition of clay crystallites suggest that the corrensite was formed by the alteration of detrital dioctahedral smectite in magnesium-rich pore fluids during early diagenesis of the Rustler Formation. This study provides initial estimates of the abundance and nature of the clay minerals in the Culebra dolomite in the vicinity of the Waste Isolation Pilot Plant.

Utilization and optimization of a waste stream cellulose culture medium for pigment production by Penicillium spp

Aims This research sought to determine optimal corn waste stream–based fermentation medium C and N sources and incubation time to maximize pigment production by an indigenous Indonesian Penicillium spp., as well as to assess pigment pH stability. Methods and Results A Penicillium spp. was isolated from Indonesian soil, identified as Penicillium resticulosum, and used to test the effects of carbon and nitrogen type and concentrations, medium pH, incubation period and furfural on biomass and pigment yield (PY) in a waste corncob hydrolysate basal medium. Maximum red PY (497·03 ± 55·13 mg l−1) was obtained with a 21 : 1 C : N ratio, pH 5·5–6·0; yeast extract-, NH4NO3-, NaNO3-, MgSO4·7H2O-, xylose- or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC)-supplemented medium and 12 days (25°C, 60–70% relative humidity, dark) incubation. C source, C, N and furfural concentration, medium pH and incubation period all influenced biomass and PY. Pigment was pH 2–9 stable. Conclusions Penicillium resticulosum demonstrated microbial pH-stable-pigment production potential using a xylose or CMC and N source, supplemented waste stream cellulose culture medium. Significance and Impact of the Study Corn derived, waste stream cellulose can be used as a culture medium for fungal pigment production. Such application provides a process for agricultural waste stream resource reuse for production of compounds in increasing demand.

Waste and resource management practices, legislation and policy encouraging and influencing ‘regeneration reuse’ of property assets

Carbon taxation governance is becoming increasingly popular, further evolving the polluter pays concept already well established in the built environment as a mechanism to controlling and licensing waste generation. This paper presents an explanation of property asset ‘regeneration reuse’ principles following deconstruction, which reduce waste generation associated with the process of demolition, construction and operation. An analysis is made of strategies in Australia and the United Kingdom, comparing jurisdiction targets pertaining to construction and demolition waste that encourage ‘regeneration reuse’. From examination of applicable Australian and United Kingdom legislation, strategic, fiscal and policy that influence on the 'regeneration reuse' of property assets, an evaluation to the variety of issues relevant to waste and resource management practices is reached. The paper concludes that a systematic evaluation framework to selecting building components and structures suitable for reuse after deconstruction must be considered in legislation.

Regeneration reuse in the context of the waste management cycle of the built environment

This original study creates a philosophy of regeneration reuse, which is a conceptual framework that utilises construction and demolition waste products by building component, relocation and adaptive reuse. Case studies from the greater Brisbane, wider southeast Queensland region and greater London area are used to demonstrate the principles of regeneration reuse through research activities, analysis and evaluation. The regeneration reuse conceptual process draws upon assessing embodied carbon and sustainable benefits to deconstruct rather than destruct, and consider alternative options to waste treatment technologies in the built environment. The importance of waste management is examined, specifically the impacts of governance to the principles of regeneration reuse through analysis of legislation in the Australian and UK jurisdictions. Design process considerations when incorporating the principles of regeneration reuse are defined, and phasing and staging assessment explored to determine the most effective point of intervention in the design process to include waste management strategies.

EatChaFood : challenging technology design to slice food waste production

This paper presents work in progress of EatChaFood – a prototype app designed to increase user knowledge of the currently available domestic supply and location of food, with a view to reducing expired household food waste. In order to reap the benefits that EatChaFood can provide we explore ways to overcome manual data entry as a barrier to use. Our user study has to recognise the limitations of the prototype app, and conduct an evaluation of the interaction design built into the app to promote behaviour change. Innovations in the near future such as the automatic scanning of barcodes on food items or photo-recognition will close the gap between perceived prototype usability and usefulness.

Attitudinal, normative, and control beliefs underlying people’s curbside household waste recycling decisions

This study examined the beliefs underlying people’s decision-making, from a theory of planned behaviour (TPB) framework, in the prediction of curbside household waste recycling. Community members in Brisbane, Australia (N = 148) completed a questionnaire assessing the belief based TPB measures of attitudinal beliefs (costs and benefits), normative beliefs (important referents), and control beliefs (barriers) in relation to engaging in curbside household waste recycling for a 2-week period. Two weeks later, participants completed self report measures of recycling behaviour for the previous fortnight. The results revealed that the attitudinal, normative, and control beliefs for people who performed higher and lower levels of recycling differed significantly. A regression analysis identified both normative and control beliefs as the main determinants of recycling behaviour. For normative beliefs, high level recyclers perceived more approval from referents such as partners, friends, and neighbours to recycle all eligible materials. In addition, the strong results for control beliefs indicated that barriers such as forgetfulness, lack of time, and laziness were rated as more likely to hamper optimal recycling performance for low level recyclers. These findings provide important applied information about beliefs to target in the development of future community recycling campaigns.

The engagement of small to medium enterprises for managing waste in building retrofit projects

The market of building retrofits is increasingly more intensified as existing buildings are aging. The building retrofit projects involve existing buildings which impose constraints on stakeholders throughout the project process. They are also risky, complex, less predictable and difficult to be well planned with on-site waste becoming one of the critical issues. Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) carry out most of the work in retrofit projects as subcontractors, but they often do not have adequate resources to deal with the specific technical challenges and project risks related to waste. This paper first discusses the requirements of waste management in building retrofit projects considering specific project characteristics and work natures, and highlights the importance of involving SMEs in waste planning and management through an appropriate way. By utilizing semi-structured interviews, this research develops a process model for SMEs to be applied in waste management. A collaboration scenario is also developed for collaborative waste planning and management by SMEs as subcontractors and large companies as main contractors. Findings from the paper will promote coordination of project delivery and waste management in building retrofit projects, and improve the involvement and performance of SMEs in dealing with waste problems.

Application of lean production to reducing operational waste in a tile manufacturing process

Roofing tile manufacturing is a mass production process with high operational and inventory wastes and costs. Due to huge operational costs, excessive inventory and wastes, and quality problems, roofing tile manufacturers are trying to implement lean manufacturing practice in their operations in order to remain competitive in an ncreasingly competitive global market. The aim of this research is to evaluate the possibility of reducing the operational and inventory costs of the tile manufacturing process through waste minimization. This paper analyses the current waste situation in a tile manufacturing process and develops current and future value stream mapping for such a process with a view to implementing lean principles in manufacturing. The focus of the approach is on cost reduction by eliminating non-value-added activities.

Analysis of interrelationships between critical waste factors in office building retrofit projects using interpretive structural modelling

The number of office building retrofit projects is increasing. These projects are characterised by processes which have a close relationship with waste generation and therefore demand a high level of waste management. In a preliminary study reported separately, we identified seven critical factors of on-site waste generation in office building retrofit projects. Through semi-structured interviews and Interpretive Structural Modelling, this research further investigated the interrelationships among these critical waste factors, to identify each factor’s level of influence on waste generation and propose effective solutions for waste minimization. “Organizational commitment” was identified as the fundamental issue for waste generation in the ISM system. Factors related to plan, design and construction processes were found to be located in the middle levels of the ISM model but still had significant impacts on the system as a whole. Based on the interview findings and ISM analysis results, some practical solutions were proposed for waste minimization in building retrofit projects: (1) reusable and adaptable fit-out design; (2) a system for as-built drawings and building information; (3) integrated planning for retrofitting work process and waste management; and (4) waste benchmarking development for retrofit projects. This research will provide a better understanding of waste issues associated with building retrofit projects and facilitate enhanced waste minimization.

Mapping, monitoring, and modelling of hazardous waste sites

Management of the industrial nations' hazardous waste is a current and exponentially increasing, global threatening situation. Improved environmental information must be obtained and managed concerning the current status, temporal dynamics and potential future status of these critical sites. To test the application of spatial environmental techniques to the problem of hazardous waste sites, as Superfund (CERCLA) test site was chosen in an industrial/urban valley experiencing severe TCE, PCE, and CTC ground water contamination. A paradigm is presented for investigating spatial/environmental tools available for the mapping, monitoring and modelling of the environment and its toxic contaminated plumes. This model incorporates a range of technical issues concerning the collection of data as augmented by remotely sensed tools, the format and storage of data utilizing geographic information systems, and the analysis and modelling of environment through the use of advance GIS analysis algorithms and geophysic models of hydrologic transport including statistical surface generation. This spatial based approach is evaluated against the current government/industry standards of operations. Advantages and lessons learned of the spatial approach are discussed.

Identifying factors that promote consumer behaviours causing expired domestic food waste

Many commentators argue that domestic food waste is strongly influenced by consumer behaviours. This article reports on a study using mixed-methods to identify key factors responsible for promoting consumer behaviours that lead to domestic food waste through the lens of the Value-Belief-Norm (VBN) theory. Based on the study’s findings, three factors are proposed that cause behaviours that lead to food waste: supply knowledge – does a consumer know what food they have available; location knowledge – does a consumer know where to locate food items, and; food literacy – to what degree do past experience and acquired knowledge impact on a consumer’s food consumption and wastage practices. We analyse the study’s findings in light of a review of literature about consumer food wastage behaviours and in turn, present new insights into consumer behaviour, food waste, and the use of technology to reduce food waste.

The global public health issue of pharmaceutical waste : what role for pharmacists?

Purpose Pharmaceuticals have played an important role in improving the quality of life of the human population in modern times. However, it must also be acknowledged that both the production and use of pharmaceuticals have a significant, negative impact on the environment and consequently, a negative impact on the health of humans and wildlife. This negative impact is due to the embedded carbon in pharmaceuticals' manufacture and distribution and the waste generated in their manufacture, consumption and disposal. Pharmaceutical waste is comprised of contaminated waste (unwanted pharmaceuticals and their original containers) and non-contaminated waste (non-hazardous packaging waste). The paper aims to discuss these issues. Design/methodology/approach The article is a literature review. Findings The article identified a gap in the literature around pharmacist attitudes and behaviour toward the environmentally responsible handling of pharmaceutical waste. Originality/value Pharmacists, with their professional commitment to the quality use of medicines and their active participation in the medicines management pathway, already play an important role in the more sustainable use of pharmaceuticals. Even so, they have the potential to play an even greater role with the environmentally responsible disposal of pharmaceutical waste (including packaging waste) and the education of other health professionals and the general public on this topic.