Familiar letters to Henry Clay of Kentucky, describing a winter in the West Indies.

English edition, London, 1840, published under title: A winter in the West Indies.

Recent developments on a nearshore, terrigenous-influenced reef: Low Isles Reef, Australia

Low Isles Reef is the most southerly located of 46 coral reef platforms unique to the inner shelf of the northern Great Barrier Reef Province, Australia, which support both sea grass and mangrove growth. Such reefs develop in areas that are influenced by river flood plumes and where interreef sediments are dominated by terrigenous mud. Low Isles Reef has long been a popular tourist destination. Informal reports of decreasing visibility, a decline in scleractinian corals, and increases in soft coral and macroalgae have sparked speculation that agricultural activities in coastal catchments are affecting the reef. Comparison of the modern surface of Low Isles Reef with historical surveys and photographs dating back to 1928 allows quantification of modern sedimentary processes, rates of change, and factors influencing reef development. Results indicate that changes on Low Isles Reef are related to remobilization of coarse sediment during storm events and gradual shoreline retreat associated with rising sea level. Retreat of shingle ramparts and elongate ridges of coral debris toward the reef interior has led to the infilling of subtidal ponds on the reef top, which supported hard coral colonies in 1928. The gradual development of a composite shingle rampart along the windward margin has promoted an increase (;150%) in the area of the reef top covered by mangroves. On the leeward margin, a decrease in hard corals since 1950 may reflect a rising contribution of organic debris from the expanding mangrove swamp. Results suggest that recent changes on Low Isles Reef can be explained in the context of natural processes. Further study is needed before the effects of agricultural activities in coastal catchments on reef health can be confirmed.

A high-precision record of mid-late Holocene sea-level events from emergent coral pavements in the Houtman Abrolhos Islands, southwest Australia

Early work on sea-levels in southwest Australia claimed to recognise a Holocene sea-level highstand which was not seen in better known sea-level records elsewhere at the time. More recent work has confirmed that a mid-Holocene highstand Occurred about 6 kyr ago. As new data on oscillating sea-levels from the region have recently been published, a high continuity, precisely dated and accurately surveyed record was obtained from emergent coral pavements in the leeward Houtman Abrolhos Islands (Serventy Island), a tectonically stable region from where good-quality Holocene sea-level data have been previously obtained from corals. From the mid-Holocene highstand ca. 7 U/Th kyr ago, sea-level declined linearly during the remainder of the Holocene as the carbonate platform prograded leewards. Hydro-isostatic controls are probably significant in the record. (c) 2005 Elsevier Ltd and INQUA. All rights reserved.

Carbonate preservation of sediment cores from the Great Bahama Bank

The oceanic carbon cycle mainly comprises the production and dissolution/ preservation of carbonate particles in the water column or within the sediment. Carbon dioxide is one of the major controlling factors for the production and dissolution of carbonate. There is a steady exchange between the ocean and atmosphere in order to achieve an equilibrium of CO2; an anthropogenic rise of CO2 in the atmosphere would therefore also increase the amount of CO2 in the ocean. The increased amount of CO2 in the ocean, due to increasing CO2-emissions into the atmosphere since the industrial revolution, has been interpreted as "ocean acidification" (Caldeira and Wickett, 2003). Its alarming effects, such as dissolution and reduced CaCO3 formation, on reefs and other carbonate shell producing organisms form the topic of current discussions (Kolbert, 2006). Decreasing temperatures and increasing pressure and CO2 enhance the dissolution of carbonate particles at the sediment-water interface in the deep sea. Moreover, dissolution processes are dependent of the saturation state of the surrounding water with respect to calcite or aragonite. Significantly increased dissolution has been observed below the aragonite or calcite chemical lysocline; below the aragonite compensation depth (ACD), or calcite compensation depth (CCD), all aragonite or calcite particles, respectively, are dissolved. Aragonite, which is more prone to dissolution than calcite, features a shallower lysocline and compensation depth than calcite. In the 1980's it was suggested that significant dissolution also occurs in the water column or at the sediment-water interface above the lysocline. Unknown quantities of carbonate produced at the sea surface, would be dissolved due to this process. This would affect the calculation of the carbonate production and the entire carbonate budget of the world's ocean. Following this assumption, a number of studies have been carried out to monitor supralysoclinal dissolution at various locations: at Ceara Rise in the western equatorial Atlantic (Martin and Sayles, 1996), in the Arabian Sea (Milliman et al., 1999), in the equatorial Indian Ocean (Peterson and Prell, 1985; Schulte and Bard, 2003), and in the equatorial Pacific (Kimoto et al., 2003). Despite the evidence for supralysoclinal dissolution in some areas of the world's ocean, the question still exists whether dissolution occurs above the lysocline in the entire ocean. The first part of this thesis seeks answers to this question, based on the global budget model of Milliman et al. (1999). As study area the Bahamas and Florida Straits are most suitable because of the high production of carbonate, and because there the depth of the lysocline is the deepest worldwide. To monitor the occurrence of supralysoclinal dissolution, the preservation of aragonitic pteropod shells was determined, using the Limacina inflata Dissolution Index (LDX; Gerhardt and Henrich, 2001). Analyses of the grain-size distribution, the mineralogy, and the foraminifera assemblage revealed further aspects concerning the preservation state of the sediment. All samples located at the Bahamian platform are well preserved. In contrast, the samples from the Florida Straits show dissolution in 800 to 1000 m and below 1500 m water depth. Degradation of organic material and the subsequent release of CO2 probably causes supralysoclinal dissolution. A northward extension of the corrosive Antarctic Intermediate Water (AAIW) flows through the Caribbean Sea into the Gulf of Mexico and might enhance dissolution processes at around 1000 m water depth. The second part of this study deals with the preservation of Pliocene to Holocene carbonate sediments from both the windward and leeward basins adjacent to Great Bahama Bank (Ocean Drilling Program Sites 632, 633, and 1006). Detailed census counts of the sand fraction (250-500 µm) show the general composition of the coarse grained sediment. Further methods used to examine the preservation state of carbonates include the amount of organic carbon and various dissolution indices, such as the LDX and the Fragmentation Index. Carbonate concretions (nodules) have been observed in the sand fraction. They are similar to the concretions or aggregates previously mentioned by Mullins et al. (1980a) and Droxler et al. (1988a), respectively. Nonetheless, a detailed study of such grains has not been made to date, although they form an important part of periplatform sediments. Stable isotopemeasurements of the nodules' matrix confirm previous suggestions that the nodules have formed in situ as a result of early diagenetic processes (Mullins et al., 1980a). The two cores, which are located in Exuma Sound (Sites 632 and 633), at the eastern margin of Great Bahama Bank (GBB), show an increasing amount of nodules with increasing core depth. In Pliocene sediments, the amount of nodules might rise up to 100%. In contrast, nodules only occur within glacial stages in the deeper part of the studied core interval (between 30 and 70 mbsf) at Site 1006 on the western margin of GBB. Above this level the sediment is constantly being flushed by bottom water, that might also contain corrosive AAIW, which would hinder cementation. Fine carbonate particles (<63 µm) form the matrix of the nodules and do therefore not contribute to the fine fraction. At the same time, the amount of the coarse fraction (>63 µm) increases due to the nodule formation. The formation of nodules might therefore significantly alter the grain-size distribution of the sediment. A direct comparison of the amount of nodules with the grain-size distribution shows that core intervals with high amounts of nodules are indeed coarser than the intervals with low amounts of nodules. On the other hand, an initially coarser sediment might facilitate the formation of nodules, as a high porosity and permeability enhances early diagenetic processes (Westphal et al., 1999). This suggestion was also confirmed: the glacial intervals at Site 1006 are interpreted to have already been rather coarse prior to the formation of nodules. This assumption is based on the grain-size distribution in the upper part of the core, which is not yet affected by diagenesis, but also shows coarser sediment during the glacial stages. As expected, the coarser, glacial deposits in the lower part of the core show the highest amounts of nodules. The same effect was observed at Site 632, where turbidites cause distinct coarse layers and reveal higher amounts of nodules than non-turbiditic sequences. Site 633 shows a different pattern: both the amount of nodules and the coarseness of the sediment steadily increase with increasing core depth. Based on these sedimentological findings, the following model has been developed: a grain-size pattern characterised by prominent coarse peaks (as observed at Sites 632 and 1006) is barely altered. The greatest coarsening effect due to the nodule formation will occur in those layers, which have initially been coarser than the adjacent sediment intervals. In this case, the overall trend of the grain-size pattern before and after formation of the nodules is similar to each other. Although the sediment is altered due to diagenetic processes, grain size could be used as a proxy for e.g. changes in the bottom-water current. The other case described in the model is based on a consistent initial grain-size distribution, as observed at Site 633. In this case, the nodule reflects the increasing diagenetic alteration with increasing core depth rather than the initial grain-size pattern. In the latter scenario, the overall grain-size trend is significantly changed which makes grain size unreliable as a proxy for any palaeoenvironmental changes. The results of this study contribute to the understanding of general sedimentation processes in the periplatform realm: the preservation state of surface samples shows the influence of supralysoclinal dissolution due to the degradation of organic matter and due to the presence of corrosive water masses; the composition of the sand fraction shows the alteration of the carbonate sediment due to early diagenetic processes. However, open questions are how and when the alteration processes occur and how geochemical parameters, such as the rise in alkalinity or the amount of strontium, are linked to them. These geochemical parameters might reveal more information about the depth in the sediment column, where dissolution and cementation processes occur.

Age determination of North Atlantic sediment cores

Available overwash records from coastal barrier systems document significant variability in North Atlantic hurricane activity during the late Holocene. The same climate forcings that may have controlled cyclone activity over this interval (e.g., the West African Monsoon, El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO)) show abrupt changes around 6000 yrs B.P., but most coastal sedimentary records do not span this time period. Establishing longer records is essential for understanding mid-Holocene patterns of storminess and their climatic drivers, which will lead to better forecasting of how climate change over the next century may affect tropical cyclone frequency and intensity. Storms are thought to be an important mechanism for transporting coarse sediment from shallow carbonate platforms to the deep-sea, and bank-edge sediments may offer an unexplored archive of long-term hurricane activity. Here, we develop this new approach, reconstructing more than 7000 years of North Atlantic hurricane variability using coarse-grained deposits in sediment cores from the leeward margin of the Great Bahama Bank. High energy event layers within the resulting archive are (1) broadly correlated throughout an offbank transect of multi-cores, (2) closely matched with historic hurricane events, and (3) synchronous with previous intervals of heightened North Atlantic hurricane activity in overwash reconstructions from Puerto Rico and elsewhere in the Bahamas. Lower storm frequency prior to 4400 yrs B.P. in our records suggests that precession and increased NH summer insolation may have greatly limited hurricane potential intensity, outweighing weakened ENSO and a stronger West African Monsoon-factors thought to be favorable for hurricane development.

Failure Mechanisms and Local Scour at Coastal Structures induced by Tsunamis

On March 11 2011, an exceptionally large tsunami event was triggered by a massive earthquake offshore, the northeast coast of Japan, which affected coastal infrastructure such as seawalls, coastal dikes and breakwaters in the Tohoku region. Such infrastructure was built to protect against the Level 1 tsunamis that previously hit the region, but not for events as significant as the 2011 Tohoku tsunami, which was categorized as a Level 2 tsunami [Shibayama et al. 2013]. The failure mechanisms of concrete-armoured dikes, breakwaters and seawalls due to Level 2 tsunamis are still not fully understood by researchers and engineers. This paper investigates the failure modes and mechanisms of damaged coastal structures in Miyagi and Fukushima Prefectures, following the authors' post-disaster field surveys carried out between 2011 and 2013. Six significant failure mechanisms were identified for the coastal dikes and seawalls affected by this tsunami: 1) Leeward toe scour failure, 2) Crown armour failure, 3) Leeward slope armour failure, 4) Seaward toe and armour failure, 5) Overturning failure, and 6) Parapet wall failure, in which leeward toe scour being recognized as the major failure mechanism in most surveyed locations. The authors also propose a simple practical mathematical model for predicting the scour depth at the leeward toe of the coastal dikes, by considering the effects of the tsunami hydrodynamics, the soil properties and the type of structure. The key advantage of this model is that it depends entirely on quantities that are measurable in the field. Furthermore this model was further refined by conducting a series of hydraulic model experiments aimed to understand the governing factors of the leeward toe scour failure. Finally, based on the results obtained, key recommendations are given for the design of resilient coastal defence structures that can survive a level 2 tsunami event.

Dancing the Archive: Rhythms of Change in Post-Volcano Identities on Montserrat, West Indies

In this dissertation, I demonstrate how improvisations within the structures of performance during Montserrat’s annual festivals produce “rhythms of change” that contribute to the formation of cultural identities. Montserrat is a small island of 39.5 square miles in the Caribbean’s Leeward Islands, and a volcanic disaster in the 1990s led to the loss of villages, homes, and material possessions. The crisis resulted in mass displacement and emigration, and today’s remaining population of 5,000 is now in a stage of post-volcano redevelopment. The reliability of written archives for establishing cultural knowledge is tenuous, and the community is faced with re-energizing cherished cultural traditions. This ethnographic research traces my embodied search for Montserrat’s history through an archive that is itself intangible and performative. Festivals produce some of the island’s most visible and culturally political events, and music and dance performances prompt on- and off-stage discussions about the island’s multifaceted heritage. The festival cycle provides the structure for ongoing renegotiations of what it means to be “Montserratian.” I focus especially on the island’s often-discussed and debated “triangular” heritage of Irishness, Africanness, and Montserratianness as it is performed during the festivals. Through my meanderings along the winding hilly roads of Montserrat, I explored reconfigurations of cultural memory through the island’s masquerade dance tradition and other festival celebrations. In this work, I introduce a “Cast of Characters,” each of whose scholarly, artistic, and public service work on Montserrat contributes to the shape and transformation of the island’s post-volcano cultural identities today. This dissertation is about the kinesthetic transmission of shared (and sometimes unshared) cultural knowledge, the substance of which echoes in the rhythms of Montserrat’s music and dance practices today.

Geomorphological constraining of tsunami (?) run-up in the Alcantarilha coastal lowland (Central Algarve, Portugal)

The Alcantarilha lowland, partly barred by a well developed barrier, including foredunes covering Pleistocene-Holocene beachrock and aeolianite, develops across the Alcantarilha infilled estuary, the beach-dune extending further SE until the Salgados lagoon. A topographic and coring survey revealed a peculiar feature at the leeward toe of the dune ridge close to the inlet area: a sandy fan with location, shape and morphology suggesting emplacement by single or multiple overwash of the barrier tip rather than tidal forcing. Its storm or tsunami origin and age are under investigation, and the only time-constrain available at present is that it should post-date ca. 6600 cal BP, the most recent in situ aeolianite (Moura et al., 2007) dated so far. METHODS, DATA SET AND RESULTS The fan boundaries are distinctive in aerial photos and satellite images: it is roughly ellipsoidal, ~200 m wide and ~300 m elongated paralleling the shoreline, rising ~ 0.9-1.2 m above the surrounding floodplain surface. Detailed topography shows that its short axis aligns with SW-NE elongated (though irregular) depressions in the dune crest, which link the beach with the fan. This could have favoured funnelling of, or erosion by, water overtopping the barrier but, in either case, the fan should correspond to extreme and abrupt event(s) of coastal flooding. 18 trenches and cores were performed in the exposed area of the fan and nearby flood plain to obtain samples and data on its sedimentology, lithostratigraphy and geometry. The fan consists of well sorted and rounded sand (Fig. 2). It thins away and wedges out landwards of the apex (located near Alc29T) where it is partly covered by dune sand. Its lower boundary is undulating and marked by textural contrast between sand (fan) and underlying mud (alluvial/lagoonal); an accumulation of marine-sourced perforated pebbles showing limited lateral continuity may pinpoint this boundary near the foredune (core Alc 25, ca. 80 m westward of profile in Fig.1); mud-balls were also observed immediately above this surface in cores and trenches. As the washover was probably emplaced in a barred lagoonal/estuarine floodplain setting, the fan’s northern outer belt is enclosed by low-energy sediments (not shown in Fig. 2).

La forme des récifs coralliens et le régime des vents alternants

This paper deals with the development of crescent-shaped reefs in the China Sea under control of northwest and southeast monsoon winds alternating in direction seasonally. The transport of sediment derived from windward side to leeward around reef ends has been studied. A description of the analogy of these large structures with individual coral colonies developing in similar manner under current action as micro atolls has given.

Effect of clearing native forest (Caatinga) strips on some hydrologic components of micro-watersheds.

The influences of clearing native vegetation (Caatinga) in contour strips at 25 cm vertical interval on evaporation losses in cleared strips, annual runoff efficiency and annuall soil loss on gently sloped micro-waterheds in the arid zones of Northeast Brazil are reported. The alternate native vegetation (Caatinga) strips function very effectively as windbreaks thus reducing evaporation losses substantially in the leeward cleared strips. The runoff measured at the micro-watershed with cleared strips was many-fold lower than the runoff obtained at a completely denuded watershed even when it was protected by narrow based channel terraces. However, the annual runoff efficiency can be significantly increased in a strip cleared watershed if narrow based channel terraces are provided on the lower side of cleared strips. The annual soil losses in strip cleared watersheds as well as completely denuded waterhed of gentle slopes were negligible. Thus clearing land in alternate contour strips on a micro-watersheds shall substantially improve crop water use efficiency without creating any significant erosion problems. Additionally this treatment will increase runoff for water harvesting for irrigation purposes.

Dinâmica das pescas e gestão participativa do polvo vulgar (Octopus vulgaris) capturado pela frota de covos e alcatruzes no sul de Portugal

Tese de Doutoramento, Ciências do Mar, da Terra e do Ambiente, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Universidade do Algarve, 2015

Flow around a hemisphere-cylinder at high angle of attack and low Reynolds number. Part II: POD and DMD applied to reduced domains

Three-dimensional direct numerical simulations (DNS) have been performed on a finite-size hemispherecylinder model at angle of attack AoA = 20◦ and Reynolds numbers Re = 350 and 1000. Under these conditions, massive separation exists on the nose and lee-side of the cylinder, and at both Reynolds numbers the flow is found to be unsteady. Proper orthogonal decomposition (POD) and dynamic mode decomposition (DMD) are employed in order to study the primary instability that triggers unsteadiness at Re = 350. The dominant coherent flow structures identified at the lower Reynolds number are also found to exist at Re = 1000; the question is then posed whether the flow oscillations and structures found at the two Reynolds numbers are related. POD and DMD computations are performed using different subdomains of the DNS computational domain. Besides reducing the computational cost of the analyses, this also permits to isolate spatially localized oscillatory structures from other, more energetic structures present in the flow. It is found that POD and DMD are in general sensitive to domain truncation and noneducated choices of the subdomain may lead to inconsistent results. Analyses at Re = 350 show that the primary instability is related to the counter rotating vortex pair conforming the three-dimensional afterbody wake, and characterized by the frequency St ≈ 0.11, in line with results in the literature. At Re = 1000, vortex-shedding is present in the wake with an associated broadband spectrum centered around the same frequency. The horn/leeward vortices at the cylinder lee-side, upstream of the cylinder base, also present finite amplitude oscillations at the higher Reynolds number. The spatial structure of these oscillations, described by the POD modes, is easily differentiated from that of the wake oscillations. Additionally, the frequency spectra associated with the lee-side vortices presents well defined peaks, corresponding to St ≈ 0.11 and its few harmonics, as opposed to the broadband spectrum found at the wake.

Flow around a hemisphere-cylinder at high angle of attack and low Reynolds number. Part I: Experimental and numerical investigation

Three-dimensional Direct Numerical Simulations combined with Particle Image Velocimetry experiments have been performed on a hemisphere-cylinder at Reynolds number 1000 and angle of attack 20◦. At these flow conditions, a pair of vortices, so-called “horn” vortices, are found to be associated with flow separation. In order to understand the highly complex phenomena associated with this fully threedimensional massively separated flow, different structural analysis techniques have been employed: Proper Orthogonal and Dynamic Mode Decompositions, POD and DMD, respectively, as well as criticalpoint theory. A single dominant frequency associated with the von Karman vortex shedding has been identified in both the experimental and the numerical results. POD and DMD modes associated with this frequency were recovered in the analysis. Flow separation was also found to be intrinsically linked to the observed modes. On the other hand, critical-point theory has been applied in order to highlight possible links of the topology patterns over the surface of the body with the computed modes. Critical points and separation lines on the body surface show in detail the presence of different flow patterns in the base flow: a three-dimensional separation bubble and two pairs of unsteady vortices systems, the horn vortices, mentioned before, and the so-called “leeward” vortices. The horn vortices emerge perpendicularly from the body surface at the separation region. On the other hand, the leeward vortices are originated downstream of the separation bubble, as a result of the boundary layer separation. The frequencies associated with these vortical structures have been quantified.