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Effect of fibre, yarn and knitted fabric attributes associated with wool comfort properties

In this replicated experiment, we investigated the comfort properties of single jersey fabrics composed of cashmere in blends with superfine wools of different fibre curvature (crimp) where the fibre diameter of the wool and cashmere were tightly controlled. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) which has been calibrated using wearer trials of wool knitwear. General linear modelling determined the best prediction models for log10 transformed fabric WCM values using 27 fibre, 16 yarn and 30 fabric attributes. Tighter fabrics were less comfortable. Progressively blending cashmere with wool progressively increased comfort assessment. The WCM was able to detect differences between fabrics which were more supple and springy, thinner and lighter, and were composed of more elastic, uniform and stronger yarns. Together these attributes explained 82% of the variance in WCM value.

Relationship between wearer prickle response with fibre and garment properties and Wool ComfortMeter assessment

The prickle evoked by 48 knitted fabrics was assessed by wearers under a defined evaluation protocol. The relationship between the average wearer prickle score and known properties of constituent fibre, yarns and fabrics and fabric evaluation using the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) was determined using linear modelling. After log transformation, the best model accounted for 87.7% of the variance. The major share of variation could be attributed to differences between mean fibre diameter (MFD) and WCM values. Low prickle scores were linearly associated with lower MFD, lower WCM and lower yarn linear density. There was an indication that yarn twist affected prickle scores and that fabrics composed of cotton evoked less prickle. Measures of fibre diameter distribution or coarse fibre incidence and other fabric properties were not significant. The analysis indicates that wool garments can be constructed to keep wearer assessed prickle to barely detectable levels and textile designers can manipulate a range of parameters to achieve similar wearer comfort responses.

Predicting comfort properties of knitted fabrics by assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter

This study examined the feasibility of assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) to predict the comfort properties of the corresponding single jersey-knitted fabrics. The optimum yarn arrangement to predict the comfort value of a corresponding control fabric was determined using nine wool and wool/nylon-blended yarns (mean fibre diameter range 16.5–24.9 μm) knitted into 34 different fabrics. Using a notched template, yarn winding frequencies of 1, 3, 6, 12, 25 and 50 parallel yarns were tested on the WCM. The best predictor of fabric WCM values was using 25 parallel yarns. Inclusion of knitting gauge and cover factor slightly improved predictions. This indicates that evaluation at the yarn stage would be a reliable predictor of knitted fabric comfort, and thus yarn testing would avoid the time and expense of fabric construction.

Strain-responsive polyurethane/PEDOT:PSS elastomeric composite fibers with high electrical conductivity

It is a challenge to retain the high stretchability of an elastomer when used in polymer composites. Likewise, the high conductivity of organic conductors is typically compromised when used as filler in composite systems. Here, it is possible to achieve elastomeric fiber composites with high electrical conductivity at relatively low loading of the conductor and, more importantly, to attain mechanical properties that are useful in strain-sensing applications. The preparation of homogenous composite formulations from polyurethane (PU) and poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene):poly(styrenesulfonate) (PEDOT:PSS) that are also processable by fiber wet-spinning techniques are systematically evaluated. With increasing PEDOT:PSS loading in the fiber composites, the Young's modulus increases exponentially and the yield stress increases linearly. A model describing the effects of the reversible and irreversible deformations as a result of the re-arrangement of PEDOT:PSS filler networks within PU and how this relates to the electromechanical properties of the fibers during the tensile and cyclic stretching is presented. Conducting elastomeric fibers based on a composite of polyurethane (PU) and PEDOT:PSS, produced by a wet-spinning method, have high electrical conductivity and stretchability. These fibers can sense large strains by changes in resistance. The PU/PEDOT:PSS fiber is optimized to achieve the best strain sensing. PU/PEDOT:PSS fibers can be produced on a large scale and integrated into conventional textiles by weaving or knitting. © 2014 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim.

Recent research and developments on yarn hairiness

Hairiness is an important quality parameter of spun yarns. It not only affects the quality of yarns, but also the weaving and knitting performance of yarns as well as the quality of the resultant fabrics. Various developments regarding yarn hairiness have been reported in the last decade. These cover aspects such as hairiness measurement, modeling, simulation, spinning modifications and post spinning treatments to reduce hairiness. This study is an attempt to critically review all significant recent developments regarding yarn hairiness. Further possibilities of research and future work are also briefly discussed.

The influence of fiber diameter, fabric attributes and environmental conditions on wetness sensations of next-to-skin knitwear

This study investigated the relationships between the sensations of sweaty, damp, muggy and clingy, as assessed by human response from wearer trial garment assessment, and fiber type, fiber, yarn and fabric properties and instrumental fabric measurements of next-to-skin knitwear. Wearer trial assessment of 48 fabrics followed a strict 60 minute protocol including a range of environmental conditions and levels of exercise. Adjusted mean weighted scores were determined using linked garments. Instrumental fabric handle measurements were determined with the Wool HandleMeter (WHM) and Wool ComfortMeter. Data were analyzed using forward stepwise general linear modeling. Mean fiber diameter (MFD) affected the sweaty, damp, muggy and clingy sensation responses accounting for between 23.5% and 56.2% of the variance of these sensations. In all cases, finer fibers were associated with lower sensation scores (preferred). There were also effects of fiber type upon sweaty, muggy and clingy scores, with polyester fiber fabrics having higher scores (less preferred) compared with fabrics composed of wool, particularly for peak sweaty scores in hot and active environments. Attributes such as fabric density, yarn linear density, knitting structure and finishing treatments, but not fabric thickness, accounted for some further variance in these attributes once MFD had been taken into account. This is explained as finer fibers have a greater surface area for any given mass of fiber and so finer fibers can act as a more effective sink for moisture compared with coarser fibers. No fabric handle parameter or other attribute of fiber diameter distribution was significant in affecting these sensation scores.

A new design concept for knitted external vein-graft support mesh

Autologous vein-graft failure significantly limits the long-term efficacy of coronary artery bypass procedures. The major cause behind this complication is biomechanical mismatch between the vein and coronary artery. The implanted vein experiences a sudden increase (10-12 fold) in luminal pressures. The resulting vein over-distension or 'ballooning' initiates wall thickening phenomenon and ultimate occlusion. Therefore, a primary goal in improving the longevity of a coronary bypass procedure is to inhibit vein over-distension using mechanical constriction. The idea of using an external vein-graft support mesh has demonstrated sustained benefits and wide acceptance in experimental studies. Nitinol based knitted structures have offered more promising mechanical features than other mesh designs owing to their unique loosely looped construction. However, the conventional plain knit construction still exhibits limitations (radial compliance, deployment ease, flexibility, and bending stresses) which limit this design from proving its real clinical advantage. The new knitted mesh design presented in this study is based on the concept of composite knitting utilising high modulus (nitinol and polyester) and low modulus (polyurethane) material components. The experimental comparison of the new design with a plain knit design demonstrated significant improvement in biomechanical (compliance, flexibility, extensibility, viscoelasticity) and procedural (deployment limit) parameters. The results are indicative of the promising role of new mesh in restoring the lost compliance and pulsatility of vein-graft at high arterial pressures. This way it can assist in controlled vein-graft remodelling and stepwise restoration of vein mechanical homoeostasis. Also, improvement in deployment limit parameter offers more flexibility for a surgeon to use a wide range of vein diameters, which may otherwise be rendered unusable for a plain knit mesh.

Highly-twisted, continuous nanofibre yarns prepared by a hybrid needle-needleless electrospinning technique

Nanofibres prepared by electrospinning have shown enormous potential for various applications. They are obtained predominantly in the form of nonwoven fibre webs. The 2-dimensional nonwoven feature and fragility have considerably confined their further processing into fabrics through knitting or weaving. Nanofibre yarns, which are nanofibre bundles with continuous length and a twist feature, show improved tensile strength, offering opportunities for making 3-dimensional fibrous materials with precisely controlled fibrous architecture, porous features and fabric dimensions. Despite a few techniques having been developed for electrospinning nanofibre yarns, they are chiefly based on the needle electrospinning technique, which often has low nanofibre productivity. In this study, we for the first time report a nanofibre yarn electrospinning technique which combines both needle and needleless electrospinning. A rotating intermediate ring collector was employed to directly collect freshly-electrospun nanofibres into a fibrous cone, which was further drawn and twisted into a nanofibre yarn. This novel system was able to produce high tenacity yarn (tensile strength 128.9 MPa and max strain 222.1%) at a production rate of 240 m h^-1, with a twist level up to 4700 twists per metre. The effects of various parameters, e.g. position of the electrospinning units, operating conditions and polymer concentration, on nanofibre and yarn production were examined.

Knitted strain sensor textiles of highly conductive all-polymeric fibers

A scaled-up fiber wet-spinning production of electrically conductive and highly stretchable PU/PEDOT:PSS fibers is demonstrated for the first time. The PU/PEDOT:PSS fibers possess the mechanical properties appropriate for knitting various textile structures. The knitted textiles exhibit strain sensing properties that were dependent upon the number of PU/PEDOT:PSS fibers used in knitting. The knitted textiles show sensitivity (as measured by the gauge factor) that increases with the number of PU/PEDOT:PSS fibers deployed. A highly stable sensor response was observed when four PU/PEDOT:PSS fibers were co-knitted with a commercial Spandex yarn. The knitted textile sensor can distinguish different magnitudes of applied strain with cyclically repeatable sensor responses at applied strains of up to 160%. When used in conjunction with a commercial wireless transmitter, the knitted textile responded well to the magnitude of bending deformations, demonstrating potential for remote strain sensing applications. The feasibility of an all-polymeric knitted textile wearable strain sensor was demonstrated in a knee sleeve prototype with application in personal training and rehabilitation following injury.

Medical textiles as vascular implants and their success to mimic natural arteries

Vascular implants belong to a specialised class of medical textiles. The basic purpose of a vascular implant (graft and stent) is to act as an artificial conduit or substitute for a diseased artery. However, the long-term healing function depends on its ability to mimic the mechanical and biological behaviour of the artery. This requires a thorough understanding of the structure and function of an artery, which can then be translated into a synthetic structure based on the capabilities of the manufacturing method utilised. Common textile manufacturing techniques, such as weaving, knitting, braiding, and electrospinning, are frequently used to design vascular implants for research and commercial purposes for the past decades. However, the ability to match attributes of a vascular substitute to those of a native artery still remains a challenge. The synthetic implants have been found to cause disturbance in biological, biomechanical, and hemodynamic parameters at the implant site, which has been widely attributed to their structural design. In this work, we reviewed the design aspect of textile vascular implants and compared them to the structure of a natural artery as a basis for assessing the level of success as an implant. The outcome of this work is expected to encourage future design strategies for developing improved long lasting vascular implants.

Sistemas de controle de vendas no setor têxtil: um estudo exploratório

Esta dissertação estuda os sistemas de controle de vendas praticados pela indústria têxtil brasileira diante das mudanças ambientais ocorridas nas últimas duas décadas. O pressuposto básico para a utilização de sistemas de controle para a equipe de vendas é que através deles é possível dirigir e influenciar as atitudes e os comportamentos dos empregados para conseguir atingir seus objetivos, havendo uma estreita relação entre a forma como a gerência comercial monitora, dirige, avalia e recompensa as atividades dos seus vendedores e a efetividade da área comercial, sendo diferenciais decisivos para atender a pressão por competitividade e as exigências do mercado quanto ao posicionamento da equipe comercial frente ao novo cenário de negócios. Da revisão teórica foram levantados os oito principais modelos de sistemas de controle e aspectos importantes que devem ser considerados para a composição do sistema de cada empresa. A pesquisa foi conduzida entre os responsáveis por equipes de vendas no segmento têxtil nos elos onde vendas industriais são realizadas. Empregaram-se técnicas empíricas para o levantamento das freqüências de incidência dos aspectos estudados e foi possível constatar que os elos de fibras e filamentos, fiação, tecelagem, malharia e beneficiamento do segmento têxtil possuem sistemas de controle pertinentes com as características de venda industrial. Os controles formais estão ligados a resultados e os controles informais estão relacionados com o acompanhamento das atividades e capacidades do vendedor. Adicionalmente buscou-se captar a percepção dos responsáveis por equipes comerciais sobre sua efetividade nos aspectos de volume de vendas, lucratividade, participação de mercado e também satisfação do cliente.