Celebração midiática e cultura: o "olhar ilustrado" da Folha de S. Paulo sobre a São Paulo Fashion Week 2006

Entender o campo da moda como um universo que reflete atitudes e sentimentos da vida social do homem-comum se constitui a base desta pesquisa. Para compreender melhor de que forma a moda aparece assim configurada, faz-se necessário desvendar os adornos com os quais a mídia da cultura de massa trabalha neste campo. Com a proposta de enxergar como os valores transformadores do campo estão atuantes na mídia, a partir de uma leitura interpretativa, optamos por analisar o enfoque dado pelo caderno Ilustrada da Folha de S. Paulo ao maior evento de moda do Brasil a São Paulo Fashion Week, na sua edição de julho de 2006. Desta forma, apresentamos os aspectos da cultura de massa que estão diretamente relacionados ao campo da moda e de que maneira estes aspectos foram enquadrados nos textos da Folha, no processo de celebração do evento.(AU)

Celebração midiática e cultura: o "olhar ilustrado" da Folha de S. Paulo sobre a São Paulo Fashion Week 2006

Entender o campo da moda como um universo que reflete atitudes e sentimentos da vida social do homem-comum se constitui a base desta pesquisa. Para compreender melhor de que forma a moda aparece assim configurada, faz-se necessário desvendar os adornos com os quais a mídia da cultura de massa trabalha neste campo. Com a proposta de enxergar como os valores transformadores do campo estão atuantes na mídia, a partir de uma leitura interpretativa, optamos por analisar o enfoque dado pelo caderno Ilustrada da Folha de S. Paulo ao maior evento de moda do Brasil a São Paulo Fashion Week, na sua edição de julho de 2006. Desta forma, apresentamos os aspectos da cultura de massa que estão diretamente relacionados ao campo da moda e de que maneira estes aspectos foram enquadrados nos textos da Folha, no processo de celebração do evento.(AU)

Foreign words in the English of textiles

All references and quotations to be made to the original, i.e. Balteiro Fernández, M. Isabel. 2009. “Foreign Words in the English of Textiles”. In Linde, A. and Crespo, R. Ed. Professional English in the European Context: The EHEA Challenge. Bern: Peter Lang. Pp. 127-150

The business of fashion in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries

Fashion is a complex social and cultural phenomenon with strong economic implications. Historical analysis reveals that the mechanisms of creating and spreading fashion have not remained constant, but have varied according to social structures, forms of producing and distributing apparel and social media, while the level of influence of fashion on society has increased in line with economic development. This special issue of Investigaciones de Historia Económica-Economic History Research is dedicated to fashion as an economic phenomenon in the contemporary period. The four articles which make it up show the plurality of the subject areas, sources and methodological approaches in the current research on this topic.

Meeting Competition: Why it is not an Abuse under Article 82. Research Papers in Law, 3/2004.

Introduction. Meeting competition occurs when an undertaking lowers its prices in response to the entry of a competitor. Despite accepting that meeting competition can be compatible with Article 82, the Commission2 and the Court of justice3 have repeatedly condemned the practice due to the modalities of implementation or “particular circumstances”.4 However, existing precedent on the subject remains obscurely reasoned and contradictory, such that it is at the present time impossible to give clear advice to undertakings on the circumstances in which meeting competition is compatible with Article 82. Not only is such legal uncertainty in itself damaging but, in so far as it discourages meeting competition, it appears to us to be harmful to competition. As concerns the latter point, it will be seen that some of the most powerful arguments against prohibiting meeting competition are based on the counterproductive nature of the remedies. The present article does not, however, aim to propose a simple solution to distinguish abusive and non-abusive meeting competition.5 Nor does the article aim to give a comprehensive overview of the existing case law in this area.6 Instead, it takes a more economic approach and aims to lay out in a (brief but) systematic fashion the competitive concerns that might potentially be raised by the practice of meeting competition and in doing so to try to identify the main flaws in the Court and Commission’s approach.

Subsidiarity between Law and Economics. Research Papers in Law, 1/2005

From the Introduction. The present contribution is an attempt to raise awareness between the 'trenches' by juxtaposing the two approaches to subsidiarity. Subsequently, I shall set out why, in economics, subsidiarity is embraced as a key principle in the design and working of the Union and how a functional subsidiarity test can be derived from this thinking. Throughout the paper, a range of illustrations and examples is provided in an attempt to show the practical applicability of a subsidiarity test. This does not mean, of course, that the application of the test can automatically "solve" all debates on whether subsidiarity is (not) violated. What it does mean, however, is that a careful methodology can be a significant help to e.g. national parliaments and the Brussels circuit, in particular, to discourage careless politicisation as much as possible and to render assessments of subsidiarity comparable throughout the Union. The latter virtue should be of interest to national parliaments in cooperating, within just six weeks, about a common stance in the case of a suspected violation of the principle. The structure of the paper is as follows. Section 2 gives a flavour of very different approaches and appreciation of the subsidiarity principle in European law and in the economics of multi-tier government. Section 3 elaborates on the economics of multi-tier government as a special instance of cost / benefit analysis of (de)centralisation in the three public economic functions of any government system. This culminates in a five-steps subsidiarity test and a brief discussion about its proper and improper application. Section 4 applies the test in a non-technical fashion to a range of issues of the "efficiency function" (i.e. allocation and markets) of the EU. After showing that the functional logic of subsidiarity may require liberalisation to be accompanied by various degrees of centralisation, a number of fairly detailed illustrations of how to deal with subsidiarity in the EU is provided. One illustration is about how the subsidiarity logic is misused by protagonists (labour in the internal market). A slightly different but frequently encountered aspect consists in the refusal to recognize that the EU (that is, some form of centralisation) offers a better solution than 25 national ones. A third range of issues, where the functional logic of subsidiarity could be useful, emerges when the boundaries of national competences are shifting due to more intense cross-border flows and developments. Other subsections are devoted to Union public goods and to the question whether the subsidiarity test might trace instances of EU decentralisation: a partial or complete shift of a policy or regulation to Member States. The paper refrains from an analysis of the application of the subsidiarity test to the other two public functions, namely, equity and macro-economic stabilisation.2 Section 5 argues that the use of a well-developed methodology of a functional subsidiarity test would be most useful for the national parliaments and even more so for their cooperation in case of a suspected violation of subsidiarity. Section 6 concludes.

Celebração midiática e cultura: o "olhar ilustrado" da Folha de S. Paulo sobre a São Paulo Fashion Week 2006

Entender o campo da moda como um universo que reflete atitudes e sentimentos da vida social do homem-comum se constitui a base desta pesquisa. Para compreender melhor de que forma a moda aparece assim configurada, faz-se necessário desvendar os adornos com os quais a mídia da cultura de massa trabalha neste campo. Com a proposta de enxergar como os valores transformadores do campo estão atuantes na mídia, a partir de uma leitura interpretativa, optamos por analisar o enfoque dado pelo caderno Ilustrada da Folha de S. Paulo ao maior evento de moda do Brasil a São Paulo Fashion Week, na sua edição de julho de 2006. Desta forma, apresentamos os aspectos da cultura de massa que estão diretamente relacionados ao campo da moda e de que maneira estes aspectos foram enquadrados nos textos da Folha, no processo de celebração do evento.(AU)

Brand equity and purchase intention in fashion industry:a cross-cultural study in Asia and Europe

This research is the leading brand for purchase of assets, and analyzing the factors based on brand asset components and the relationship between the brand and brand assets assets impact factors and purchase intent on uncovering the relationship between components and trademarks centered on South Korea and the United Kingdom, by comparing the asset management plan would generate. The study, information navigation product knowledge affects of constant (+), brand attitudes and knowledge of the brand loyalty and brand value to the constant trademark (+). Brand value and brand loyalty and purchase intent-(+) in the United Kingdom, on the other hand, of the impact that do not affect that.

Tech Fashion : Fashion Institutionalization in Digital Technology

This thesis explores aesthetization in general and fashion in particular in digital technology design and how we can design digital technology to account for the extended influences of fashion. The thesis applies a combination of methods to explore the new design space at the intersection of fashion and technology. First, it contributes to theoretical understandings of aesthetization and fashion institutionalization that influence digital technology design. We show that there is an unstable aesthetization in mobile design and the increased aesthetization is closely related to the fashion industry. Fashion emerged through shared institutional activities, which are usually in the form of action nets in the design of digital devices. “Tech Fashion” is proposed to interpret such dynamic action nets of institutional arrangements that make digital technology fashionable and desirable. Second, through associative design research, we have designed and developed two prototypes that account for institutionalized fashion values, such as the concept “outfit-centric accessory.” We call for a more extensive collaboration between fashion design and interaction design.

Connections between Modern and Postmodern art and fashion.

This paper undertakes to construe the affinities and divergences in the genres of art and fashion throughout the 20th century through the use of particular visual and theoretical examples, examined at greater length in a more extensive study of ‘The relationship between the artist and the fashion designer in the twentieth century’ (Vettese, 2005). Examination of the 20th century has revealed two particular periods – ‘Modernism’ and ‘Postmodernism’ – that were evident and fitting to this analysis. The research is a summation of these findings, where the differences and affinities in the mechanisms of 20th century art and fashion, including imposing messages and innovation in Modernism and the mixed messages, recycling and commercial aspects of Postmodernism, are disseminated.

A visual and contextual comparative study of the work of Picasso and Chanel towards an understanding of the overlaps between Modern Art and Fashion.

From the beginning of the twentieth century, ``Modernism`` impacted and transformed art and clothing. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle ``Coco`` Chanel were two of the most central characters in Modernism working simultaneously in their disciplines. Picasso`s innovations, particularly in abstract art and Chanel`s fashion designs, that dramatically departed from the previous corseted and highly deco-rative styles, were so significant that they have left an influence on contemporary art and fashion. This study will compare their visual works and documented evidence of their motivations, within the context of their cultural backgrounds, to reveal meaning in the occurrences of overlaps. This approach has ex-amined the historical, cultural background of the artist and designer`s environment from different per-spectives, adding to previous research in this area. Through this research, outcomes of the analysis have shown similarities and divergences in the wider genres of art and fashion and the practice of the artist and fashion designer. The reference list to this text, used in the survey, gives a comprehensive overview of pertinent publications disseminating Picasso and Chanel`s visual works, oral perspectives and cultural impact.

"Secretary in Fashion" and "Love-Letters": a study of socio-cultural and pragmatic-linguistic features in the late 17th century English language

Epistolary manuals are conspicuous historical documents for the pedagogy of letter writing; however, their actual usage as manuals by letter writers is unknown. "Secretary in Fashion" by Serre (1668), an epistolary manual, and "Love-Letters between a Nobleman and his Sister" (1684), an epistolary novel attributed to Behn, both give insights into epistolary conventions. Their inception and nature is interesting, considering their historical context. Despite the Restoration of Charles II, 17th century England was in a confused political state; as a result, texts regarding social convention or politics interested contemporary readers (the novel is inspired by a scandal of Lord Grey, an ardent Whig opposing Charles II). Past epistolary studies focus on 18th rather than 17th century manuals; the latter is typically used as supplementary information. Similarly, past epistolary fiction studies focus on 18th century texts; moreover, linguistic studies on Behn and the novel are deficient. Thus, this study addresses the research questions: 1) What are the socio-cultural and pragmaticlinguistic features represented in "Secretary in Fashion"? 2) What are the socio-cultural and pragmatic-linguistic features represented in "Love-Letters between a Nobleman and his Sister", and do any of these features correlate with the features represented in "Secretary in Fashion"? How far do the characteristic linguistic features of "Love-Letters between a Nobleman and his Sister" correlate with the practices recommended by the manual? Both texts were qualitatively analysed from an historical pragmatic perspective, which observes the potential effects of the socio-cultural and historical context. Also, as the texts concern shared discourses, comparisons were made with Gricean and Politeness Theory. The results show that the manual is a typical 17th century epistolary manual, aligning particularly with the "Academies of Complements", as it concerns the social conventions of the gentry. The novel mainly upheld instructions on form and matter; deviations occurred due to the amatory nature of some letters, and the narrative force affecting the style. Unfortunately, neither research question elucidates the actual usage of manuals. However, this study does show the epistolary practices of two writers, within specific contexts. It reveals that their 17th century English language use is affected by socialisation, in terms of social conventions concerning social rank, age, and gender; therefore, context varies language use. Also, their popularity reveals the interests of the 17th century society. Interest in epistolary-related texts, surely piques the interest of the modern reader as to why such epistolary-related texts were interesting.

Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

International Branding Strategies : In Swedish and Russian Fashion Companies

There are a lot of different business strategies for any company. However, in the fashion industry, the best way to become successful is to develop the brand using special branding strategies. Hence, a brand is the main weapon for fashion companies, which helps to launch international market and to create loyal customers around the world. Nowadays, due to the difficult current political situations and the collapse of oil and the dollar a lot of companies in different industries have to change their business strategies. It is especially true for fashion companies, because they depend on consumers ' income and their purchasing power. In the case of the fashion industry, branding strategy development can be more effective, than just business strategy. Hence, this thesis discusses the following problem: What branding strategy should Russian and Swedish fashion companies choose in order to build a strong brand and enter the international market.  The purpose of this thesis is to analyze various branding strategies of Russian and Swedish fashion companies during the process of entering foreign markets. At the end of this thesis, practical contribution in their process of international branding strategy creation will be discussed. In order to answer research questions more broadly and accurately, the mixed research method, using quantitive and qualitative study through interviews and survey was chosen. Semi-structured interviews were made with the CEO and brand managers of Russian and Swedish fashion companies. Moreover, the survey was made with two different questionnaires: for Russian and for Swedish customers. In the case of qualitative research, the author found that fashion companies from Russia and Sweden have got not just some features and differences, but also common aspects. The primary data from interviews allowed the author to understand the specifics of brand management in the fashion industry. It was found, that there are some useful aspects in Swedish strategies, which can be used by Russian companies to develop their brands on the international market. In the case of quantitative research, preferences of consumers from Russia and Sweden were analyzed and also some features were identified. Survey results provided the author with a common understanding about purchase habits, attitudes and perceptions to fashion brands. According to these, some hypothesizes, which are formulated in the first part of the thesis, have been proven or disproven. It was found, that preferences of Russian and Swedish people are pretty the same, however Russian customers do not like to risk with new brands and prefer well-known and trusted brands while Swedish customers are open for any brand, which can satisfy their tastes.