Luxury fashion: The role of innovation as a key contributing factor in the development of luxury fashion goods and sustainable fashion design

Luxury is a quality that is difficult to define as the historical concept of luxury appears to be both dynamic and culturally specific. The everyday definition explains a ‘luxury’ in relation to a necessity: a luxury (product or service) is defined as something that consumers want rather than need. However, the growth of global markets has seen a boom in what are now referred to as ‘luxury brands’. This branding of products as luxury has resulted in a change in the way consumers understand luxury goods and services. In their attempts to characterize a luxury brand, Fionda & Moore in their article “The anatomy of a Luxury Brand” summarize a range of critical conditions that are in addition to product branding “... including product and design attributes of quality, craftsmanship and innovative, creative and unique products” (Fionda & Moore, 2009). For the purposes of discussing fashion design however, quality and craftsmanship are inseparable while creativity and innovation exist under different conditions. The terms ‘creative’ and ‘innovative’ are often used inter-changeably and are connected with most descriptions of the design process, defining ‘design’ and ‘fashion’ in many cases. Christian Marxt and Fredrik Hacklin identify this condition in their paper “Design, product development, innovation: all the same in the end?”(Marxt & Hacklin, 2005) and suggest that design communities should be aware that the distinction between these terms, whilst once quite definitive, is becoming narrow to a point where they will mean the same thing. In relation to theory building in the discipline this could pose significant problems. Brett Richards (2003) identifies innovation as different from creativity in that innovation aims to transform and implement rather than simply explore and invent. Considering this distinction, in particular relation to luxury branding, may affect the way in which design can contribute to a change in the way luxury fashion goods might be perceived in a polarised fashion market, namely suggesting that ‘luxury’ is what consumers need rather than the ‘pile it high, sell it cheap’ fashion that the current market dynamic would indicate they want. This paper attempts to explore the role of innovation as a key contributing factor in luxury concepts, in particular the relationship between innovation and creativity, the conditions which enable innovation, the role of craftsmanship in innovation and design innovation in relation to luxury fashion products. An argument is presented that technological innovation can be demonstrated as a common factor in the development of luxury fashion product and that the connection between designer and maker will play an important role in the development of luxury fashion goods for a sustainable fashion industry.

Improving team dynamics and innovation : the “Aspect Design” approach applied to interaction design

Interaction Design is a fast developing branch of Industrial Design. The availability of cheap microprocessors and sensor electronics allow interactions between people and products that were until recently impossible. This has added additional layers of complexity to the design process. Novice designers find it difficult to effectively juggle these complexities and typically tend to focus on one aspect at a time. They also tend to take a linear, step-by-step approach to the design process in contrast to expert designers who pursue “parallel lines of thought” whilst simultaneously co-evolving both problem and solution. (Lawson, 1993) This paper explores an approach that encourages designers (in this case novice designers) to take a parallel rather than linear approach to the design process. It also addresses the problem of social loafing that tends to occur in team activities.

Using scenarios to explore the social aspects of design led innovations

Emerging technologies have redefined the way people go about everyday life. An increasing array of online and on-the-go solutions supporting remote work, entertainment on demand, information sharing, social communication, telehealth and beyond, are now available at the touch of a screen. This paper discusses concept of scenarios as a design tool that can be successfully employed by organisations as an innovative design led approach to: (i) understand people’s everyday practices in current social contexts in order to identify opportunities and emerging markets, and (ii) reveal stakeholder relationships existing in the provision of services within current everyday practices. To illustrate this approach, two case studies will be presented: the first focusing on a real industry project exploring opportunities for the development of future health care services, the second focusing on people’s access to services as part of a transport journey experience. This paper aims to demonstrate the use of scenarios as part of a design led innovation approach to understand the social aspects and their complexities of new designs in an increasing everyday technological driven context.

Educating the ‘Design Innovation Catalyst’ for change

Conventionally, design has played a compartmental role in the innovation process within most conservative companies around the world. Generally, companies have focused on the product design execution or the manufacturing and production arenas, and in some instances design is seen as merely a stylistic afterthought. Gradually, design is being regarded as a dynamic and central tactical business resource and consequently organisations globally look to design to help them innovate, differentiate and compete in a changing economic climate. Considering this, the question is raised; how can the specific knowledge and skills of designers be better articulated, understood, implemented and valued as a core component of strategic innovation in businesses? In seeking to answer this question, this paper proposes the new frontier of the design profession coined the ‘Design Innovation Catalyst’. This paper outlines the role of the new design professional and discusses the subsequent implications for design education. Furthermore, questions surrounding how designers will develop these new capabilities and how the design led innovation framework in application can contribute to the future of design will also be presented. It is anticipated that the findings from this research will help to better equip designers to enable them to play a more central role in business and strategic innovation now and in the future.

Early challenges of shifting an Australian manufacturer’s utilisation of design

This paper presents the findings from the initial exploration phase of an 11 month project, identifying the early challenges that a design innovation catalyst faces while initiating a shift in the way a medium sized manufacturing firm utilises design. Ultimately, the overarching aims of the project are to transform the utilisation of design within the participating company from a styling tool to a strategic process through the implementation of a design led approach to innovation. Insights were found through qualitative interviews with company staff and reflective journal entries as part of an Action Research methodology. Challenges identified include managing expectations, conveying the potential of a design innovation catalyst and a design led approach to innovation, and a siloed and risk averse culture. Findings presented in this paper will assist in identifying and understanding the preliminary challenges encountered by a design innovation catalyst when embarking on a design led transformation. Future innovation catalysts can prepare for possible barriers by highlighting considerations, opportunities and challenges when embarking on a design led transformation. Implications of this research are provided as possible approaches to overcoming these challenges.

Can emotion provide a new approach to business model innovation?

Companies require new strategies to drive growth and survival, as the fast pace of change has created the need for greater business flexibility. Therefore, industry leaders are looking to business innovation as a principle source of differentiation and competitive advantage. However, most companies rely heavily on either technology or products to provide business innovation, yet competitors can easily and rapidly surpass these forms of innovation. Business model innovation expands beyond innovation in isolated areas, such as product innovation, to create strategies that incorporate many business avenues to work together to create and deliver value to its customers. Existing literature highlights that a business model’s central role is ‘customer value’. However, the emotional underpinnings of customer value within a business model are not well understood. The integration of customer emotion into business model design and value chain can be viewed as a way to innovate beyond just products, services and processes. This paper investigates the emotional avenues within business strategy and operations, business model innovation and customer engagement. Three propositions are outlined and explored as future research. The significance of this research is to provide companies with a new approach to innovation through a deeper understanding and integration of their customers’ emotions.

The challenges of adopting design-led innovative strategies in not for profits : the role of consumers, culture and employees

Major changes to regulations, funding and consumer demand in the Australian aged care industry are driving not for profits in this sector to reshape and rethink the services they offer and the ways in which they deliver their services to consumers. Many not for profit organisations facing these new challenges are also facing organisational cultural barriers in the development and implementation of innovative strategies. This paper presents a case study where one organisation, using design led innovation, explored consumer insights and employee values to find new ways to facilitate change.

Design innovation catalyst tools to facilitate organisational change

Organisations have recently looked to design to become more customer oriented and co-create a new kind of value and service offering. This requires changes in the organisation mindset, involving the entire company, innovation processes and often its business model. One tool that has been successful in facilitating this has been Osterwalder and Pigneur (2010) ‘Business Model Canvas’ and more importantly the design process that supports the use of this tool. The aim of this paper is to explore the role design tools play in the translation and facilitation process of innovation in firms. Six ‘Design Innovation Catalysts’ (Wrigley, 2013) were interviewed in regards to their approach and use of design tools in order to better facilitate innovation. Results highlight the value of tools expands beyond their intended use to include; facilitation of communicating, permission to think creatively, and learning and teaching through visualisation. Findings from this research build upon the role of the Design Innovation Catalyst and provide additional implications for organisations.

The drive towards user-centred engineering in automotive design

Falling sales in Europe and increasing global competition is forcing automotive manufacturers to develop a customer-based approach to differentiate themselves from the similarly technologically-optimised crowd. In spite of this new approach, automotive firms are still firmly entrenched in their reliance upon technology-driven innovation, to design, develop and manufacture their products, placing customer focus on a downstream sales role. However the time-honoured technology-driven approach to vehicle design and manufacture is coming into question, with the increasing importance of accounting for consumer needs pushing automotive engineers to include the user in their designs. The following paper examines the challenges and opportunities for a single global automotive manufacturer that arise in seeking to adopt a user-centred approach to vehicle design amongst technical employees. As part of an embedded case study, engineers from this manufacturer were interviewed in order to gauge the challenges, barriers and opportunities for the adoption of user-centred design tools within the engineering design process. The analysis of these interviews led to the proposal of the need for a new role within automotive manufacturers, the “designeer”, to bridge the divide between designers and engineers and allow the engineering process to transition from a technology-driven to a user- centred approach.

Design theory for innovation of classroom-based information systems

This research used design science research methods to develop, instantiate, implement, and measure the acceptance of a novel software artefact. The primary purpose of this software artefact was to enhance data collection, improve its quality and enable its capture in classroom environments without distracting from the teaching activity. The artefact set is an iOS app, with supporting web services and technologies designed in response to teacher and pastoral care needs. System analysis and design used Enterprise Architecture methods. The novel component of the iOS app implemented proximity detection to identify the student through their iPad and automatically link to that student's data. The use of this novel software artefact and web services was trialled in a school setting, measuring user acceptance and system utility. This integrated system was shown to improve the accuracy, consistency, completeness and timeliness of captured data and the utility of the input and reporting systems.

The role of emotion in product, service and business model design

Designers have become aware of the importance of creating strong emotional experiences intertwined with new tangible products for the past decade, however an increased interest from firms has emerged in developing new service and business models as complimentary forms of emotion-driven innovation. This interdisciplinary study draws from the psychological sciences – theory of emotion – and the management sciences – business model literature to introduce this new innovation agenda. The term visceral hedonic rhetoric (VHR) is defined as the properties of a product, (and in this paper service and business model extensions) that persuasively induce the pursuit of pleasure at an instinctual level of cognition. This research paper lays the foundation for VHR beyond a product setting, presenting the results from an empirical study where organizations explored the possibilities for VHR in the context of their business. The results found that firms currently believe VHR is perceived in either their product and/or services they provide. Implications suggest shifting perspective surrounding the use of VHR across a firm’s business model design in order to influence the outcomes of their product and/or service design, resulting in an overall stronger emotional connection with the customer.

Design and a deep customer insight approach to innovation

This paper proposes and explores the Deep Customer Insight Innovation Framework in order to develop an understanding as to how design can be integrated within existing innovation processes. The Deep Customer Insight Innovation Framework synthesises the work of Beckman and Barry (2007) as a theoretical foundation, with the framework explored within a case study of Australian Airport Corporation seeking to drive airport innovations in operations and retail performance. The integration of a deep customer insight approach develops customer-centric and highly integrated solutions as a function of concentrated problem exploration and design-led idea generation. Businesses’ facing complex innovation challenges or seeking to making sense of future opportunities will be able to integrate design into existing innovation processes, anchoring the new approach between existing market research and business development activities. This paper contributes a framework and novel understanding as to how design methods are integrated into existing innovation processes for operationalization within industry.

Customer inspired innovation with designer as innovation catalyst

This study explores the processes of introduction, implementation and integration of design-led innovation within a family owned company driven by engineering innovation in a sector dominated by product and process improvements. This paper is based on the outcomes of an investigation of a family manufacturing company in the METS sector over an 11-month period, where the researcher was embedded in the firm to deliver value to the company by using an action research approach. The design innovation catalyst used a design-led innovation process to capture customer insights that led to changes at the leadership, managerial and employee level of the organisation.

A design approach to innovation in the Australian energy industry

Electricity businesses across Australia are facing many market disruptions, such as the increasing demand from the rapid uptake of domestic air conditioners and the contrasting problematic generation from solar power connections to the grid. In this context, the opportunity to proactively leverage forthcoming technological advances in battery storage and electric vehicles to address the steeply rising cost of electricity supply has emerged. This research explores a design approach to support a business to navigate such disruptions in the current market.This study examines a design-led approach to innovation conducted over a ten month action research study within a large, risk-averse firm in the Australian energy sector. This article presents results describing a current foresight gap within the business; the response of the business to using design-led innovation to address this issue; and the tools, approaches and processes used. The business responses indicate their perception of the value of qualitative customer engagement as a path to addressing, and potentially benefiting from, disruptive innovation. It is anticipated that these results will further business model development within the company, and assist in leveraging disruptive innovations for this industry participant, thus limiting future increases in the cost of electricity supply for customers in Australia.