Grain shape and size distribution effects in coastal models /

"July 1976."

Coastal changes, eastern Lake Michigan, 1970-1973 /

"October 1976."

Base map analysis of coastal changes using aerial photography /

"November 1981."

Energy spectra in shallow U.S. coastal waters /

"February 1980."

Draft report to Congress on the Coastal Barrier Resources System : as required by section 10 of P.L. 97-348, the Costal Barrier Resources Act of 1982.

"This is a draft report to Congress considering conservation alternatives for the fish and wildlife and other natural resources of the Coastal Barrier Resources System prepared pursuant to section 10 of the Coastal Barrier Resources Act of 1982 (16 U.S.C. 3809)."

Inspections of previously monitored coastal structures /

Includes bibliographical references: (p. 54-55).

Coastal processes and beach erosion /

Mode of access: Internet.

Failure Mechanisms and Local Scour at Coastal Structures induced by Tsunamis

On March 11 2011, an exceptionally large tsunami event was triggered by a massive earthquake offshore, the northeast coast of Japan, which affected coastal infrastructure such as seawalls, coastal dikes and breakwaters in the Tohoku region. Such infrastructure was built to protect against the Level 1 tsunamis that previously hit the region, but not for events as significant as the 2011 Tohoku tsunami, which was categorized as a Level 2 tsunami [Shibayama et al. 2013]. The failure mechanisms of concrete-armoured dikes, breakwaters and seawalls due to Level 2 tsunamis are still not fully understood by researchers and engineers. This paper investigates the failure modes and mechanisms of damaged coastal structures in Miyagi and Fukushima Prefectures, following the authors' post-disaster field surveys carried out between 2011 and 2013. Six significant failure mechanisms were identified for the coastal dikes and seawalls affected by this tsunami: 1) Leeward toe scour failure, 2) Crown armour failure, 3) Leeward slope armour failure, 4) Seaward toe and armour failure, 5) Overturning failure, and 6) Parapet wall failure, in which leeward toe scour being recognized as the major failure mechanism in most surveyed locations. The authors also propose a simple practical mathematical model for predicting the scour depth at the leeward toe of the coastal dikes, by considering the effects of the tsunami hydrodynamics, the soil properties and the type of structure. The key advantage of this model is that it depends entirely on quantities that are measurable in the field. Furthermore this model was further refined by conducting a series of hydraulic model experiments aimed to understand the governing factors of the leeward toe scour failure. Finally, based on the results obtained, key recommendations are given for the design of resilient coastal defence structures that can survive a level 2 tsunami event.

Analysis, modelling and design of a groin as coastal protection structure at Lido di Dante, Ravenna

An analysis and a subsequent solution is here presented. This document is about a groin design able to contrast the erosion actions given by waves in Lido di Dante. Advantages will be visible also for Fiumi Uniti's inlet, in the north side of the shoreline. Beach future progression and growth will be subjected to monitoring actions in the years after groin construction. The resulting effects of the design will have a positive impact not only on the local fauna and environment, but also, a naturalistic appeal will increase making new type of tourists coming not only for recreational purposes. The design phase is focused on possible design alternatives and their features. Particular interest is given to scouring phenomena all around the groin after its construction. Groin effects will impact not only on its south side, instead they will cause an intense erosion process on the downdrift front. Here, many fishing hut would be in danger, thus a beach revetment structure is needed to avoid any future criticality. In addiction, a numerical model based on a generalized shoreline change numerical model, also known as GENESIS, has been applied to the study area in order to perform a simplistic analysis of the shoreline and its future morphology. Critical zones are visible in proximity of the Fiumi Uniti's river inlet, where currents from the sea and the river itself start the erosion process that is affecting Lido di Dante since mid '80s, or even before. The model is affected by several assumptions that make results not to be interpreted as a real future trend of the shore. Instead the model allows the user to have a more clear view about critical processes induced by monochromatic inputed waves. In conclusion, the thesis introduce a wide analysis on a complex erosion process that is affecting many shoreline nowadays. A groin design is seen as a hard solution it is considered to be the only means able to decrease the rate of erosion.

Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for sheet flow under waves

A simple method is provided for calculating transport rates of not too fine (d(50) greater than or equal to 0.20 mm) sand under sheet flow conditions. The method consists of a Meyer-Peter-type transport formula operating on a time-varying Shields parameter, which accounts for both acceleration-asymmetry and boundary layer streaming. While velocity moment formulae, e.g.., = Constant x calibrated against U-tube measurements, fail spectacularly under some real waves (Ribberink, J.S., Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., McLean, S.R., Vincent, C., 2000. Near-bed sand transport mechanisms under waves. Proc. 27th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Sydney, ASCE, New York, pp. 3263-3276, Fig. 12), the new method predicts the real wave observations equally well. The reason that the velocity moment formulae fail under these waves is partly the presence of boundary layer streaming and partly the saw-tooth asymmetry, i.e., the front of the waves being steeper than the back. Waves with saw-tooth asymmetry may generate a net landward sediment transport even if = 0, because of the more abrupt acceleration under the steep front. More abrupt accelerations are associated with thinner boundary layers and greater pressure gradients for a given velocity magnitude. The two real wave effects are incorporated in a model of the form Q(s)(t) = Q(s)[theta(t)] rather than Q(S)(t) = Q(S)[u(infinity)(t)], i.e., by expressing the transport rate in terms of an instantaneous Shields parameter rather than in terms of the free stream velocity, and accounting for both streaming and accelerations in the 0(t) calculations. The instantaneous friction velocities u(*)(t) and subsequently theta(t) are calculated as follows. Firstly, a linear filter incorporating the grain roughness friction factor f(2.5) and a phase angle phi(tau) is applied to u(infinity)(t). This delivers u(*)(t) which is used to calculate an instantaneous grain roughness Shields parameter theta(2.5)(t). Secondly, a constant bed shear stress is added which corresponds to the streaming related bed shear stress -rho ($) over bar((u) over tilde(w) over tilde)(infinity) . The method can be applied to any u(infinity)(t) time series, but further experimental validation is recommended before application to conditions that differ strongly from the ones considered below. The method is not recommended for rippled beds or for sheet flow with typical prototype wave periods and d(50) < 0.20 turn. In such scenarios, time lags related to vertical sediment movement become important, and these are not considered by the present model. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Longshore Transport Estimation on Ofir Beach in Northwest Portugal: Sand-Tracer Experiment

This work aims to shed some light on longshore sediment transport (LST) in the highly energetic northwest coast of Portugal. Data achieved through a sand-tracer experiment are compared with data obtained from the original and the new re-evaluated longshore sediment transport formulas (USACE Waterways Experiment Station’s Coastal Engineering and Research Center, Kamphuis, and Bayram bulk formulas) to assess their performance. The field experiment with dyed sand was held at Ofir Beach during one tidal cycle under medium wave-energy conditions. Local hydrodynamic conditions and beach topography were recorded. The tracer was driven southward in response to the local swell and wind- and wave-induced currents (Hsb=0.75mHsb=0.75m, Tp=11.5sTp=11.5s, θb=8−12°θb=8−12°). The LST was estimated by using a linear sediment transport flux approach. The obtained value (2.3×10−3m3⋅s−12.3×10−3m3⋅s−1) approached the estimation provided by the original Bayram formula (2.5×10−3m3⋅s−12.5×10−3m3⋅s−1). The other formulas overestimated the transport, but the estimations resulting from the new re-evaluated formulas also yield approximate results. Therefore, the results of this work indicated that the Bayram formula may give satisfactory results for predicting the longshore sediment transport on Ofir Beach.

Estudo do quebra-mar do Porto de Pesca de Albufeira: modelação numérica do galgamento usando um modelo SPH

Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Engenharia Mecânica

What determines the wavelength of self-organized shoreline sand waves?

Shoreline undulations extending into the bathymetric contours with a length scale larger than that of the rhythmic surf zone bars are referred to as shoreline sand waves. Many observed undulations along sandy coasts display a wavelength in the order 1-7 km. Several models that are based on the hypothesis that sand waves emerge from a morphodynamic instability in case of very oblique wave incidence predict this range of wavelengths. Here we investigate the physical reasons for the wavelength selection and the main parametric trends of the wavelength in case of sand waves arising from such instability. It is shown that the existence of a minimum wavelength depends on an interplay between three factors affecting littoral drift: (A) the angle of wave fronts relative to local shoreline, which tends to cause maximum transport at the downdrift flank of the sand wave, (B) the refractive energy spreading which tends to cause maximum transport at the updrift flank and (C) wave focusing (de-focusing) by the capes (bays), which tends to cause maximum transport at the crest or slightly downdrift of it. Processes A and C cause decay of the sand waves while process B causes their growth. For low incidence angles, B is very weak so that a rectilinear shoreline is stable. For large angles and long sand waves, B is dominant and causes the growth of sand waves. For large angles and short sand waves C is dominant and the sand waves decay. Thus, wavelength selection depends on process C, which essentially depends on shoreline curvature. The growth rate of very long sand waves is weak because the alongshore gradients in sediment transport decrease with the wavelength. This is why there is an optimum or dominant wavelength. It is found that sand wave wavelength scales with λ0/β where λ0 is the water wave wavelength in deep water and β is the mean bed slope from shore to the wave base.

Data assimilation for morphodynamic prediction and predictability

This paper gives an overview of the project Changing Coastlines: data assimilation for morphodynamic prediction and predictability. This project is investigating whether data assimilation could be used to improve coastal morphodynamic modeling. The concept of data assimilation is described, and the benefits that data assimilation could bring to coastal morphodynamic modeling are discussed. Application of data assimilation in a simple 1D morphodynamic model is presented. This shows that data assimilation can be used to improve the current state of the model bathymetry, and to tune the model parameter. We now intend to implement these ideas in a 2D morphodynamic model, for two study sites. The logistics of this are considered, including model design and implementation, and data requirement issues. We envisage that this work could provide a means for maintaining up-to-date information on coastal bathymetry, without the need for costly survey campaigns. This would be useful for a range of coastal management issues, including coastal flood forecasting.

Wave spectra assimilation in typhoon wave modeling for the East China Sea

The East China Sea is a hot area for typhoon waves to occur. A wave spectra assimilation model has been developed to predict the typhoon wave more accurately and operationally. This is the first time where wave data from Taiwan have been used to predict typhoon wave along the mainland China coast. The two-dimensional spectra observed in Taiwan northeast coast modify the wave field output by SWAN model through the technology of optimal interpolation (OI) scheme. The wind field correction is not involved as it contributes less than a quarter of the correction achieved by assimilation of waves. The initialization issue for assimilation is discussed. A linear evolution law for noise in the wave field is derived from the SWAN governing equations. A two-dimensional digital low-pass filter is used to obtain the initialized wave fields. The data assimilation model is optimized during the typhoon Sinlaku. During typhoons Krosa and Morakot, data assimilation significantly improves the low frequency wave energy and wave propagation direction in Taiwan coast. For the far-field region, the assimilation model shows an expected ability of improving typhoon wave forecast as well, as data assimilation enhances the low frequency wave energy. The proportion of positive assimilation indexes is over 81% for all the periods of comparison. The paper also finds that the impact of data assimilation on the far-field region depends on the state of the typhoon developing and the swell propagation direction.