Tracking the attenuation and nonbreaking dissipation of swells using altimeters

A method for systematically tracking swells across oceanic basins is developed by taking advantage of high-quality data from space-borne altimeters and wave model output. The evolution of swells is observed over large distances based on 202 swell events with periods ranging from 12 to 18 s. An empirical attenuation rate of swell energy of about 4 × 10−7 m−1 is estimated using these observations, and the nonbreaking energy dissipation rates of swells far away from their generating areas are also estimated using a point source model. The resulting acceptance range of nonbreaking dissipation rates is −2.5 to 5.0 × 10−7 m−1, which corresponds to a dissipation e-folding scales of at least 2000 km for steep swells, to almost infinite for small-amplitude swells. These resulting rates are consistent with previous studies using in-situ and synthetic aperture radar (SAR) observations. The frequency dispersion and angular spreading effects during swell propagation are discussed by comparing the results with other studies, demonstrating that they are the two dominant processes for swell height attenuation, especially in the near field. The resulting dissipation rates from these observations can be used as a reference for ocean engineering and wave modeling, and for related studies such as air-sea and wind-wave-turbulence interactions.

Ocean waves across the Arctic: attenuation due to dissipation dominates over scattering for periods longer than 19 s

The poorly understood attenuation of surface waves in sea ice is generally attributed to the combination of scattering and dissipation. Scattering and dissipation have very different effects on the directional and temporal distribution of wave energy, making it possible to better understand their relative importance by analysis of swell directional spreading and arrival times. Here we compare results of a spectral wave model – using adjustable scattering and dissipation attenuation formulations – with wave measurements far inside the ice pack. In this case, scattering plays a negligible role in the attenuation of long swells. Specifically, scattering-dominated attenuation would produce directional wave spectra much broader than the ones recorded, and swell events arriving later and lasting much longer than observed. Details of the dissipation process remain uncertain. Average dissipation rates are consistent with creep effects but are 12 times those expected for a laminar boundary layer under a smooth solid ice plate.

Analyses of permeability and porosity of sedimentary rocks in terms of unconventional geothermal resource explorations in Poland

Petrophysical investigations are fundamental to natural resource exploration. In order to recognise the geothermal potential of sedimentary rocks in central Poland, 259 samples were collected from prospective deep-lying geothermal reservoirs. Parameters measured include bulk density, skeletal density, effective porosity, permeability, average pore diameter and specific surface. Results indicate that at great depths (mostly > 3,000 m below surface) sedimentary rocks show low values of porosity (mainly less than 5%) and permeability (only sporadically in excess of 1 md). These values call for a petrothermal use of reservoirs, for which an Enhanced Geothermal System (EGS) was developed. Reser- voirs suited for the EGS are Carboniferous and Lower Triassic sandstones in the central part of Poland (Mogilno-Łódź Trough region and a small part of the Kujawy Swell and Fore-Sudetic regions). In addition, Carboniferous limestones in this area are potentially prospective.

Un drone marin écoresponsable vogue en Nouvelle-Calédonie

This text presents and explicits the story of a marine drone: the Wave Glider, designed and developed by Liquid Robotics, an American company of the Silicon Valley. The text specifies its functioning, directly dependent on energies that are the swell and the sun and its technical characteristics authorizing a set of measures of in situ parameters (sea temperature, salinity, currents, marine acoustics, video but also meteorological data acquisitions). A set of scientific or operational applications is also introduced. A detail is supplied on the first experience led in New Caledonia: inaugural mission of the drone Wave Glider, property of the Company Assystem, for a route between Nouméa and Lifou and return. Several perspectives of use of such a tool in New Caledonia and in the Pacific are proposed.

Designing Hydrogels that Transform their Shape in Response to Molecular Cues

There has been considerable interest in developing shape-changing soft materials for potential applications in drug delivery, microfluidics and biosensing. These shape- changing materials are inspired by the morphological changes exhibited by plants in nature, such as the Venus flytrap. One specific class of shape-change is that from a flat sheet to a folded structure (e.g., a tube). Such “self-folding” materials are usually composed of polymer hydrogels, and these typically fold in response to external stimuli such as pH and temperature. In order to develop these hydrogels for the previously described applications, it is necessary to expand the range of triggers. The focus of this dissertation is the advancement of shape-changing polymer hydrogels that are sensitive to uncommon cues such as specific biomolecules (enzymes), the substrates for such enzymes, or specific multivalent cations. First, we describe a hybrid gel that responds to the presence of low concentrations of a class of enzymes known as matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). The hybrid gel was created by utilizing photolithographic techniques to combine two or more gels with distinct chemical composition into the same material. Certain portions of the hybrid gel are composed of a biopolymer derivative with crosslinkable groups. The hybrid gel is flat in water; however, in the presence of MMPs, the regions containing the biopolymer are degraded and the flat sheet folds to form a 3D structure. We demonstrate that hydrogels with different patterns can transform into different 3D structures such as tubes, helices and pancakes. Furthermore, this shape change can be made to occur at physiological concentrations of enzymes. Next, we report a gel with two layers that undergoes a shape change in the presence of glucose. The enzyme glucose oxidase (GOx) is immobilized in one of the layers. GOx catalyzes the conversion of glucose to gluconic acid. The production of gluconic acid decreases the local pH. The decrease in local pH causes one of the layers to swell. As a result, the flat sheet folds to form a tube. The tube unfolds to form a flat sheet when it is transferred to a solution with no glucose present. Therefore, this biomolecule- triggered shape transformation is reversible, meaning the glucose sensing gel is reusable. Furthermore, this shape change only occurs in the presence of glucose and it does not occur in the presence of other small sugars such as fructose. In our final study, we report the shape change of a gel with two layers in the presence of multivalent ions such as Ca2+ and Sr2+. The gel consists of a passive layer and an active layer. The passive layer is composed of dimethylyacrylamide (DMAA), which does not interact with multivalent ions. The active layer consists of DMAA and the biopolymer alginate. In the presence of Ca2+ ions, the alginate chains crosslink and the active layer shrinks. As a result, the gel converts from a flat sheet to a folded tube. What is particularly unusual is the direction of folding. In most cases, when flat rectangular gels fold, they do so about their short-side. However, our gels typically fold about their long-side. We hypothesize that non-homogeneous swelling determines the folding axis.

Beach nourishment impact on Posidonia oceanica: Case study of Poniente Beach (Benidorm, Spain)

The importance of nourishment processes on the beaches of Mediterranean Sea has been increasing since the end of the 20th century due to its socio-economical awareness (tourismboost) and environmental implications (possible impact on Posidonia oceanica meadows and important processes of dredging and earth movements). However, in many cases, and especially in eastern Spain, relevant actions have been made which had caused that, after 20 years, the beaches in which these works were carried out will be in a similar situation with the original one. The present study analyzed the Poniente Beach (Benidorm, Spain), a beach where the nourishment works of 1991 have caused the disappearance of the Posidonia oceanica meadows and a regression process that will lead to the disappearance of the beach in a few years. To this end, data from bathymetry, georeferenced orthophotos, grain size analysis and swell study have been obtained and analyzed, understanding the importance of the works done to be consistent with the environment in which they were developed, and providing a work process which can ensure the existence of the nourished beach starting from the maintenance of Posidonia oceanica meadows.