Two fluid numerical model for coastal applications

Wave breaking is an important coastal process, influencing hydro-morphodynamic processes such as turbulence generation and wave energy dissipation, run-up on the beach and overtopping of coastal defence structures. During breaking, waves are complex mixtures of air and water (“white water”) whose properties affect velocity and pressure fields in the vicinity of the free surface and, depending on the breaker characteristics, different mechanisms for air entrainment are usually observed. Several laboratory experiments have been performed to investigate the role of air bubbles in the wave breaking process (Chanson & Cummings, 1994, among others) and in wave loading on vertical wall (Oumeraci et al., 2001; Peregrine et al., 2006, among others), showing that the air phase is not negligible since the turbulent energy dissipation involves air-water mixture. The recent advancement of numerical models has given valuable insights in the knowledge of wave transformation and interaction with coastal structures. Among these models, some solve the RANS equations coupled with a free-surface tracking algorithm and describe velocity, pressure, turbulence and vorticity fields (Lara et al. 2006 a-b, Clementi et al., 2007). The single-phase numerical model, in which the constitutive equations are solved only for the liquid phase, neglects effects induced by air movement and trapped air bubbles in water. Numerical approximations at the free surface may induce errors in predicting breaking point and wave height and moreover, entrapped air bubbles and water splash in air are not properly represented. The aim of the present thesis is to develop a new two-phase model called COBRAS2 (stands for Cornell Breaking waves And Structures 2 phases), that is the enhancement of the single-phase code COBRAS0, originally developed at Cornell University (Lin & Liu, 1998). In the first part of the work, both fluids are considered as incompressible, while the second part will treat air compressibility modelling. The mathematical formulation and the numerical resolution of the governing equations of COBRAS2 are derived and some model-experiment comparisons are shown. In particular, validation tests are performed in order to prove model stability and accuracy. The simulation of the rising of a large air bubble in an otherwise quiescent water pool reveals the model capability to reproduce the process physics in a realistic way. Analytical solutions for stationary and internal waves are compared with corresponding numerical results, in order to test processes involving wide range of density difference. Waves induced by dam-break in different scenarios (on dry and wet beds, as well as on a ramp) are studied, focusing on the role of air as the medium in which the water wave propagates and on the numerical representation of bubble dynamics. Simulations of solitary and regular waves, characterized by both spilling and plunging breakers, are analyzed with comparisons with experimental data and other numerical model in order to investigate air influence on wave breaking mechanisms and underline model capability and accuracy. Finally, modelling of air compressibility is included in the new developed model and is validated, revealing an accurate reproduction of processes. Some preliminary tests on wave impact on vertical walls are performed: since air flow modelling allows to have a more realistic reproduction of breaking wave propagation, the dependence of wave breaker shapes and aeration characteristics on impact pressure values is studied and, on the basis of a qualitative comparison with experimental observations, the numerical simulations achieve good results.

Maremoti in bacini limitati

The work of my thesis is focused on the impact of tsunami waves in limited basins. By limited basins I mean here those basins capable of modifying significantly the tsunami signal with respect to the surrounding open sea. Based on this definition, we consider limited basins not only harbours but also straits, channels, seamounts and oceanic shelves. I have considered two different examples, one dealing with the Seychelles Island platform in the Indian Ocean, the second focussing on the Messina Strait and the harbour of the Messina city itself (Italy). The Seychelles platform is differentiated at bathymetric level from the surrounding ocean, with rapid changes from 2 km to 70 meters over short horizontal distances. The study of the platform response to the tsunami propagation is based on the simulation of the mega-event occurred on 26 December 2004. Based on a hypothesis for the earthquake causative fault, the ensuing tsunami has been numerically simulated. I analysed synthetic tide gauge records at several virtual tide gauges aligned along the direction going from the source to the platform. A substantial uniformity of tsunami signals in all calculated open ocean tide-gauge records is observed, while the signals calculated in two points of the Seychelles platform show different features both in terms of amplitude and period of the perturbation. To better understand the content in frequency of different calculated marigrams, a spectral analysis was carried out. In particular the ratio between the calculated tide-gauge records spectrum on the platform and the average tide-gauge records in the open ocean was considered. The main result is that, while in the average spectrum in the open ocean the fundamental peak is related to the source, the platform introduces further peaks linked both to the bathymetric configuration and to coastal geometry. The Messina Strait represents an interesting case because it consists in a sort of a channel open both in the north and in the south and furthermore contains the limited basin of the Messina harbour. In this case the study has been carried out in a different way with respect to the Seychelles case. The basin was forced along a boundary of the computational domain with sinusoidal functions having different periods within the typical tsunami frequencies. The tsunami has been simulated numerically and in particular the tide-gauge records were calculated for every forcing function in different points both externally and internally of the channel and of the Messina harbour. Apart from the tide-gauge records in the source region that almost immediately reach stationarity, all the computed signals in the channel and in the Messina harbour present a transient variable amplitude followed by a stationary part. Based exclusively on this last part, I calculated the amplification curves for each site. I found that the maximum amplification is obtained for forcing periods of approximately 10 minutes.

Coastal flood vulnerability assessment with geomatic methods: Test sites of western Thailand, Sydney (Australia) and aeolian islands (south tyrrhenian sea, Italy)

The work undertaken in this PhD thesis is aimed at the development and testing of an innovative methodology for the assessment of the vulnerability of coastal areas to marine catastrophic inundation (tsunami). Different approaches are used at different spatial scales and are applied to three different study areas: 1. The entire western coast of Thailand 2. Two selected coastal suburbs of Sydney – Australia 3. The Aeolian Islands, in the South Tyrrhenian Sea – Italy I have discussed each of these cases study in at least one scientific paper: one paper about the Thailand case study (Dall’Osso et al., in review-b), three papers about the Sydney applications (Dall’Osso et al., 2009a; Dall’Osso et al., 2009b; Dall’Osso and Dominey-Howes, in review) and one last paper about the work at the Aeolian Islands (Dall’Osso et al., in review-a). These publications represent the core of the present PhD thesis. The main topics dealt with are outlined and discussed in a general introduction while the overall conclusions are outlined in the last section.

Towards Rapid Environmental Assessment and Coastal Forecasting in the Northern Adriatic Sea

A new Coastal Rapid Environmental Assessment (CREA) strategy has been developed and successfully applied to the Northern Adriatic Sea. CREA strategy exploits the recent advent of operational oceanography to establish a CREA system based on an operational regional forecasting system and coastal monitoring networks of opportunity. The methodology wishes to initialize a coastal high resolution model, nested within the regional forecasting system, blending the large scale parent model fields with the available coastal observations to generate the requisite field estimates. CREA modeling system consists of a high resolution, O(800m), Adriatic SHELF model (ASHELF) implemented into the Northern Adriatic basin and nested within the Adriatic Forecasting System (AFS) (Oddo et al. 2006). The observational system is composed by the coastal networks established in the framework of ADRICOSM (ADRiatic sea integrated COastal areaS and river basin Managment system) Pilot Project. An assimilation technique exerts a correction of the initial field provided by AFS on the basis of the available observations. The blending of the two data sets has been carried out through a multi-scale optimal interpolation technique developed by Mariano and Brown (1992). Two CREA weekly exercises have been conducted: the first, at the beginning of May (spring experiment); the second in middle August (summer experiment). The weeks have been chosen looking at the availability of all coastal observations in the initialization day and one week later to validate model results, verifying our predictive skills. ASHELF spin up time has been investigated too, through a dedicated experiment, in order to obtain the maximum forecast accuracy within a minimum time. Energetic evaluations show that for the Northern Adriatic Sea and for the forcing applied, a spin-up period of one week allows ASHELF to generate new circulation features enabled by the increased resolution and its total kinetic energy to establish a new dynamical balance. CREA results, evaluated by mean of standard statistics between ASHELF and coastal CTDs, show improvement deriving from the initialization technique and a good model performance in the coastal areas of the Northern Adriatic basin, characterized by a shallow and wide continental shelf subject to substantial freshwater influence from rivers. Results demonstrate the feasibility of our CREA strategy to support coastal zone management and wish an additional establishment of operational coastal monitoring activities to advance it.

El Niño southern oscillation and its effect on fog oases along the Peruvian and Chilean coastal deserts

Fog oases, locally named Lomas, are distributed in a fragmented way along the western coast of Chile and Peru (South America) between ~6°S and 30°S following an altitudinal gradient determined by a fog layer. This fragmentation has been attributed to the hyper aridity of the desert. However, periodically climatic events influence the ‘normal seasonality’ of this ecosystem through a higher than average water input that triggers plant responses (e.g. primary productivity and phenology). The impact of the climatic oscillation may vary according to the season (wet/dry). This thesis evaluates the potential effect of climate oscillations, such as El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO), through the analysis of vegetation of this ecosystem following different approaches: Chapters two and three show the analysis of fog oasis along the Peruvian and Chilean deserts. The objectives are: 1) to explain the floristic connection of fog oases analysing their taxa composition differences and the phylogenetic affinities among them, 2) to explore the climate variables related to ENSO which likely affect fog production, and the responses of Lomas vegetation (composition, productivity, distribution) to climate patterns during ENSO events. Chapters four and five describe a fog-oasis in southern Peru during the 2008-2010 period. The objectives are: 3) to describe and create a new vegetation map of the Lomas vegetation using remote sensing analysis supported by field survey data, and 4) to identify the vegetation change during the dry season. The first part of our results show that: 1) there are three significantly different groups of Lomas (Northern Peru, Southern Peru, and Chile) with a significant phylogenetic divergence among them. The species composition reveals a latitudinal gradient of plant assemblages. The species origin, growth-forms typologies, and geographic position also reinforce the differences among groups. 2) Contradictory results have emerged from studies of low-cloud anomalies and the fog-collection during El Niño (EN). EN increases water availability in fog oases when fog should be less frequent due to the reduction of low-clouds amount and stratocumulus. Because a minor role of fog during EN is expected, it is likely that measurements of fog-water collection during EN are considering drizzle and fog at the same time. Although recent studies on fog oases have shown some relationship with the ENSO, responses of vegetation have been largely based on descriptive data, the absence of large temporal records limit the establishment of a direct relationship with climatic oscillations. The second part of the results show that: 3) five different classes of different spectral values correspond to the main land cover of Lomas using a Vegetation Index (VI). The study case is characterised by shrubs and trees with variable cover (dense, semi-dense and open). A secondary area is covered by small shrubs where the dominant tree species is not present. The cacti area and the old terraces with open vegetation were not identified with the VI. Agriculture is present in the area. Finally, 4) contrary to the dry season of 2008 and 2009 years, a higher VI was obtained during the dry season of 2010. The VI increased up to three times their average value, showing a clear spectral signal change, which coincided with the ENSO event of that period.

Climate impact studies of sediment transport on the Adriatic coastal zone

The study of the impact of climate change on the environment has been based, until very recently, on an global approach, whose interest from a local point of view is very limited. This thesis, on the contrary, has treated the study of the impact of climate change in the Adriatic Sea basin following a twofold strategy of regionalization and integration of numerical models in order to reproduce the present and future scenarios of the system through a more and more realistic and solid approach. In particular the focus of the study was on the impact on the physical environment and on the sediment transport in the basin. This latter is a very new and original issue, to our knowledge still uninvestigated. The study case of the coastal area of Montenegro was particularly studied, since it is characterized by an important supply of sediment through the Buna/Bojana river, second most important in the Adriatic basin in terms of flow. To do this, a methodology to introduce the tidal processes in a baroclinic primitive equations Ocean General Circulation Model was applied and tidal processes were successfully reproduced in the Adriatic Sea, analyzing also the impacts they have on the mean general circulation, on salt and heat transport and on mixing and stratification of the water column in the different seasons of the year. The new hydrodynamical model has been further coupled with a wave model and with a river and sea sediment transport model, showing good results in the reproduction of sediment transport processes. Finally this complex coupled platform was integrated in the period 2001-2030 under the A1B scenario of IPCC, and the impact of climate change on the physical system and on sediment transport was preliminarily evaluated.

Molecular phylogeography of the European coastal plants Crithmum maritimum L., Halimione portulacoides (L.) Aellen, Salsola kali L. and Calystegia soldanella (L.) R. Br.

The intraspecific phylogeography of four European coastal plants, Crithmum maritimum, Halimione portulacoides, Salsola kali and Calystegia soldanella, was inferred from AFLP and ITS data. Only in C. maritimum, H. portulacoides and S. kali, a spatial genetic structure was revealed. The phylogeographic similarities and dissimilarities of these species include: (1) All three have distinct Black/Aegean and Adriatic Sea clusters. (2) Salsola kali and H. portulacoides show a distinct Atlantic/North Sea/Baltic Sea cluster, while Atlantic and eastern Spanish material of C. maritimum clustered together. (3) In the west Mediterranean, only S. kali forms a single cluster, while both H. portulacoides and C. maritimum display a phylogeographic break in the vicinity of the southern French coast. For S. kali, AFLP and ITS data concur in identifying separate Atlantic, east and west Mediterranean clades. All these patterns are postulated to result from both temperature changes during the last glacial and contemporary sea currents. No geographic AFLP structure was revealed in C. soldanella, both at the range-wide and population level. This was attributed to the remarkable seed dispersal ability of this species and possibly its longevity and clonal growth, preserving a random pattern of genetic variation generated by long-distance seed dispersal over long time periods.

Harmful algae and their potential impacts on the coastal ecosystem: growth and toxin production dynamics

The main goal of the present thesis was to study some harmful algal species which cause blooms in Italian coastal waters, leading to consequences for human health, coastal ecosystem, fishery and tourism. In particular, in the first part of this thesis the toxicity of Adriatic strains of the raphidophyte Fibrocapsa japonica was investigated. Despite several hypotheses have been proposed for the toxic mechanism of the raphidophytes, especially for the species Chattonella antiqua and C. marina, which have been studied more extensively, just a few studies on the toxic effects of these species for different organisms were reported. Moreover, a careful reading of the literature evidenced as any ichthyotoxic events reported worldwide can be linked to F. japonica blooms. Although recently several studies were performed on F. japonica strains from the USA, Japan, Australia, New Zealand, the Netherlands, Germany, and France in order to characterize their growth and toxicity features, the work reported in this thesis results one of the first investigation on the toxic effects of F. japonica for different organisms, such as bacteria, crustaceans and fish. Mortality effects, together with haemolysis of fish erythrocytes, probably due to the relatively high amount of PUFAs produced by this species, were observed. Mortality for fish, however, was reported only at a high cell density and after a long exposition period (9-10 days); moreover a significant increase of H2O2 obtained in the tanks where sea basses were exposed to F. japonica was also relevant. This result may justify the absence of ichthyotoxic events in the Italian coasts, despite F. japonica blooms detected in these areas were characterized by high cell densities. This work reports also a first complete characterization of the fatty acids produced and extracellularly released by the Adriatic F. japonica, and results were also compared with the fatty acid profile of other strains. The absence of known brevetoxins in F. japonica algal extracts was also highlighted, leading to the hypothesis that the toxicity of F. japonica may be due to a synergic effect of PUFAs and ROS. Another microalgae that was studied in this thesis is the benthic dinoflagellate Ostreopsis cf. ovata. This species was investigated with the aim to investigate the effect of environmental parameters on its growth and toxicity. O. cf. ovata, in fact, shows different blooming periods along the Italian coasts and even the reported toxic effects are variable. The results of this work confirmed the high variability in the growth dynamic and toxin content of several Italian strains which were isolated in recent years along the Adriatic and Tyrrhenian Seas. Moreover, the effects of temperature and salinity on the behaviour of the different isolates are in good agreement with the results obtained from field surveys, which evidence as the environmental parameters are important factors modulating O. cf. ovata proliferation. Another relevant result that was highlighted is the anomaly in the production of palytoxin-like compounds reported by one of the studied isolate, in particular the one isolated in 2008 in Ancona (Adriatic Sea). Only this strain reported the absence of two (ovatoxin-b and –c) of the five ovatoxins so far known in the toxin profile and a different relative abundance of the other toxins. The last aspect that was studied in this thesis regards the toxin biosythesis. In fact, toxins produced (palytoxin-like compounds) or supposed to be produced (brevetoxin-like compounds) by O. cf. ovata and F. japonica, respectively, are polyketides, which are highly oxygenated compounds synthesized by complex enzymes known as polyketide synthase (PKS) enzymes. These enzymes are multi-domain complexes that structurally and functionally resemble the fatty acid synthases (FASs). This work reports the first study of PKS proteins in the dinoflagellates O. cf. ovata, C. monotis and in the raphidophyte F. japonica. For the first time some PKSs were identified in these species, confirming the presence of PKS proteins predicted by the in silico translation of the transcripts found in K. brevis also in other species. The identification of O. cf. ovata PKSs and the localization of the palytoxin-like compounds produced by this dinoflagellate in a similar location (chloroplast) as that observed for other dinoflagellate and cyanobacterial toxins provides some indication that these proteins may be involved in polyketide biosynthesis. However, their potential function as fatty acid synthases cannot be ruled out, as plant fatty acid synthesis also occurs within chloroplasts. This last hypothesis is also supported by the fact that in all the investigated species, and in particular in F. japonica, PKS proteins were present. Therefore, these results provide an important contribution to the study of the polyketides and of the involvement of PKS proteins in the toxin biosynthesis.

Development of analytical methodologies for iodine species in gaseous and particulate phases of the coastal atmosphere

It has been demonstrated that iodine does have an important influence on atmospheric chemistry, especially the formation of new particles and the enrichment of iodine in marine aerosols. It was pointed out that the most probable chemical species involved in the production or growth of these particles are iodine oxides, produced photochemically from biogenic halocarbon emissions and/or iodine emission from the sea surface. However, the iodine chemistry from gaseous to particulate phase in the coastal atmosphere and the chemical nature of the condensing iodine species are still not understood. A Tenax / Carbotrap adsorption sampling technique and a thermo-desorption / cryo-trap / GC-MS system has been further developed and improved for the volatile organic iodine species in the gas phase. Several iodo-hydrocarbons such as CH3I, C2H5I, CH2ICl, CH2IBr and CH2I2 etc., have been measured in samples from a calibration test gas source (standards), real air samples and samples from seaweeds / macro-algae emission experiments. A denuder sampling technique has been developed to characterise potential precursor compounds of coastal particle formation processes, such as molecular iodine in the gas phase. Starch, TMAH (TetraMethylAmmonium Hydroxide) and TBAH (TetraButylAmmonium Hydroxide) coated denuders were tested for their efficiencies to collect I2 at the inner surface, followed by a TMAH extraction and ICP/MS determination, adding tellurium as an internal standard. The developed method has been proved to be an effective, accurate and suitable process for I2 measurement in the field, with the estimated detection limit of ~0.10 ng∙L-1 for a sampling volume of 15 L. An H2O/TMAH-Extraction-ICP/MS method has been developed for the accurate and sensitive determination of iodine species in tropospheric aerosol particles. The particle samples were collected on cellulose-nitrate filters using conventional filter holders or on cellulose nitrate/tedlar-foils using a 5-stage Berner impactor for size-segregated particle analysis. The water soluble species as IO3- and I- were separated by anion exchanging process after water extraction. Non-water soluble species including iodine oxide and organic iodine were digested and extracted by TMAH. Afterwards the triple samples were analysed by ICP/MS. The detection limit for particulate iodine was determined to be 0.10~0.20 ng•m-3 for sampling volumes of 40~100 m3. The developed methods have been used in two field measurements in May 2002 and September 2003, at and around the Mace Head Atmospheric Research Station (MHARS) located at the west coast of Ireland. Elemental iodine as a precursor of the iodine chemistry in the coastal atmosphere, was determined in the gas phase at a seaweed hot-spot around the MHARS, showing I2 concentrations were in the range of 0~1.6 ng∙L-1 and indicating a positive correlation with the ozone concentration. A seaweed-chamber experiment performed at the field measurement station showed that the I2 emission rate from macro-algae was in the range of 0.019~0.022 ng•min-1•kg-1. During these experiments, nanometer-particle concentrations were obtained from the Scanning Mobility Particle Sizer (SMPS) measurements. Particle number concentrations were found to have a linear correlation with elemental iodine in the gas phase of the seaweeds chamber, showing that gaseous I2 is one of the important precursors of the new particle formation in the coastal atmosphere. Iodine contents in the particle phase were measured in both field campaigns at and around the field measurement station. Total iodine concentrations were found to be in the range of 1.0 ~ 21.0 ng∙m-3 in the PM2.5 samples. A significant correlation between the total iodine concentrations and the nanometer-particle number concentrations was observed. The particulate iodine species analysis indicated that iodide contents are usually higher than those of iodate in all samples, with ratios in the range of 2~5:1. It is possible that those water soluble iodine species are transferred through the sea-air interface into the particle phase. The ratio of water soluble (iodate + iodide) and non-water soluble species (probably iodine oxide and organic iodine compounds) was observed to be in the range of 1:1 to 1:2. It appears that higher concentrated non-water soluble species, as the products of the photolysis from the gas phase into the particle phase, can be obtained in those samples while the nucleation events occur. That supports the idea that iodine chemistry in the coastal boundary layer is linked with new particle formation events. Furthermore, artificial aerosol particles were formed from gaseous iodine sources (e.g. CH2I2) using a laboratory reaction-chamber experiment, in which the reaction constant of the CH2I2 photolysis was calculated to be based upon the first order reaction kinetic. The end products of iodine chemistry in the particle phase were identified and quantified.

Effects of flooding on coastal vegetation and salt marshes

This thesis examines the effects of flooding on coastal and salt marsh vegetation. I conducted a field experiment in Bellocchio Lagoon to test the effects of different inundation periods (Level 1 = 0.468 or 11.23 hours; Level 2 = 0.351 or 8.42 hours; Level 3 = 0.263 or 6.312 hours; Level 4 = 0.155 or 3.72 hours; Level 5 = 0.082 or 1.963 hours; Level 6 = 0.04 or 0.96 hours) on the growth responses and survival of the salt marsh grass Spartina maritima in summer 2011 and 2012. S. maritima grew better at intermediate inundation times (0,351 hours; 0,263 hours, 0,115 hours; 0,082 hours), while growth and survival were reduced at greater inundation periods (0,468 hours). The differences between the 2011 and 2012 experiment were mainly related to differences in the initial number of shoots (1 and 5, respectively in 2011 and 2012). In the 2011 experiment a significant lower number of plants was present in the levels 1 and 6, the rhizomes reached the max pick in level 4, weights was major in level 4, spike length reached the pick in level 3 while leaf length in level 2. In the 2012 experiment the plants in level 6 all died, the rhizomes were more present in level 3, weights was major in level 3, spike length reached the pick in level 3, as well as leaf length. I also conducted a laboratory experiment which was designed to test the effects of 5 different inundation periods (0 control, 8, 24, 48, 96 hours) on the survival of three coastal vegetation species Agrostis stolonifera, Trifolium repens and Hippopae rhamnoides in summer 2012. The same laboratory experiment was repeated in the Netherlands. In Italy, H. rhamnoides showed a great survival in the controls, a variable performance in the other treatments and a clear decrease in treatment 4. Conversely T. repens and A. stolonifera only survive in the control. In the Netherlands experiment there was a greater variability responses for each species, still at the end of the experiment survival was significantly smaller in treatment 4 (96 h of seawater inundation) for all the three species. The results suggest that increased flooding can affect negatively the survival of both saltmarsh and coastal plants, limiting root system extension and leaf growth. Flooding effect could lead to further decline and fragmentation of the saltmarshes and coastal vegetation, thereby reducing recovery (and thus resilience) of these systems once disturbed. These effects could be amplified by interactions with other co-occurring human impacts in these systems, and it is therefore necessary to identify management options that increase the resilience of these systems.

Structural and strain analysis in the Late Paleozoic coastal accretionary wedge of central Chile

Abstract In this study structural and finite strain data are used to explore the tectonic evolution and the exhumation history of the Chilean accretionary wedge. The Chilean accretionary wedge is part of a Late Paleozoic subduction complex that developed during subduction of the Pacific plate underneath South America. The wedge is commonly subdivided into a structurally lower Western Series and an upper Eastern Series. This study shows the progressive development of structures and finite strain from the least deformed rocks in the eastern part of the Eastern Series of the accretionary wedge to higher grade schist of the Western Series at the Pacific coast. Furthermore, this study reports finite-strain data to quantify the contribution of vertical ductile shortening to exhumation. Vertical ductile shortening is, together with erosion and normal faulting, a process that can aid the exhumation of high-pressure rocks. In the east, structures are characterized by upright chevron folds of sedimentary layering which are associated with a penetrative axial-plane foliation, S1. As the F1 folds became slightly overturned to the west, S1 was folded about recumbent open F2 folds and an S2 axial-plane foliation developed. Near the contact between the Western and Eastern Series S2 represents a prominent subhorizontal transposition foliation. Towards the structural deepest units in the west the transposition foliation became progressively flat lying. Finite-strain data as obtained by Rf/Phi and PDS analysis in metagreywacke and X-ray texture goniometry in phyllosilicate-rich rocks show a smooth and gradual increase in strain magnitude from east to west. There are no evidences for normal faulting or significant structural breaks across the contact of Eastern and Western Series. The progressive structural and strain evolution between both series can be interpreted to reflect a continuous change in the mode of accretion in the subduction wedge. Before ~320-290 Ma the rocks of the Eastern Series were frontally accreted to the Andean margin. Frontal accretion caused horizontal shortening and upright folds and axial-plane foliations developed. At ~320-290 Ma the mode of accretion changed and the rocks of the Western Series were underplated below the Andean margin. This basal accretion caused a major change in the flow field within the wedge and gave rise to vertical shortening and the development of the penetrative subhorizontal transposition foliation. To estimate the amount that vertical ductile shortening contributed to the exhumation of both units finite strain is measured. The tensor average of absolute finite strain yield Sx=1.24, Sy=0.82 and Sz=0.57 implying an average vertical shortening of ca. 43%, which was compensated by volume loss. The finite strain data of the PDS measurements allow to calculate an average volume loss of 41%. A mass balance approximates that most of the solved material stays in the wedge and is precipitated in quartz veins. The average of relative finite strain is Sx=1.65, Sy=0.89 and Sz=0.59 indicating greater vertical shortening in the structurally deeper units. A simple model which integrates velocity gradients along a vertical flow path with a steady-state wedge is used to estimate the contribution of deformation to ductile thinning of the overburden during exhumation. The results show that vertical ductile shortening contributed 15-20% to exhumation. As no large-scale normal faults have been mapped the remaining 80-85% of exhumation must be due to erosion.

Effects of artificial defences and flooding on coastal habitats and assemblages

Since large stretches of European coasts are already retreating and projected scenarios are worsening, many artificial structures, such as breakwaters and seawalls, are built as tool against coastal erosion. However artificial structures produce widespread changes that alter the coastal zones and affect the biological communities. My doctoral thesis analyses the consequences of different options for coastal protection, namely hard engineering ‘artificial defences’ (i.e. impact of human-made structures) and ‘no-defence’ (i.e. impact of seawater inundation). I investigated two new aspects of the potential impact of coastal defences. The first was the effect of artificial hard substrates on the fish communities structure. In particular I was interested to test if the differences among breakwaters and natural rocky reef would change depending on the nature of the surrounding habitat of the artificial structure (prevalent sandy rather than rocky). The second was the effect on the native natural sandy habitats of the organic detritus derived from hard-bottom species (green algae and mussels) detached from breakwaters. Furthermore, I investigated the ecological implication of the “no-defend” option, which allow the inundation of coastal habitats. The focus of this study was the potential effect of seawater intrusion on the degradation process of marine, salt-marsh and terrestrial detritus, including changes on the breakdown rates and the associated macrofauna. The PhD research was conducted in three areas along European coasts: North Adriatic sea, Sicilian coast and South-West England where different habitats (coastal, estuarine), biological communities (soft-bottom macro-benthos; rocky-coastal fishes; estuarine macro-invertebrates) and processes (organic enrichment; assemblage structure; leaf-litter breakdown) were analyzed. The research was carried out through manipulative and descriptive field-experiments in which specific hypothesis were tested by univariate and multivariate analyses.

Analysis and development of ecologically based approaches to coastal defense

Climate-change related impacts, notably coastal erosion, inundation and flooding from sea level rise and storms, will increase in the coming decades enhancing the risks for coastal populations. Further recourse to coastal armoring and other engineered defenses to address risk reduction will exacerbate threats to coastal ecosystems. Alternatively, protection services provided by healthy ecosystems is emerging as a key element in climate adaptation and disaster risk management. I examined two distinct approaches to coastal defense on the base of their ecological and ecosystem conservation values. First, I analyzed the role of coastal ecosystems in providing services for hazard risk reduction. The value in wave attenuation of coral reefs was quantitatively demonstrated using a meta-analysis approach. Results indicate that coral reefs can provide wave attenuation comparable to hard engineering artificial defenses and at lower costs. Conservation and restoration of existing coral reefs are cost-effective management options for disaster risk reduction. Second, I evaluated the possibility to enhance the ecological value of artificial coastal defense structures (CDS) as habitats for marine communities. I documented the suitability of CDS to support native, ecologically relevant, habitat-forming canopy algae exploring the feasibility of enhancing CDS ecological value by promoting the growth of desired species. Juveniles of Cystoseira barbata can be successfully transplanted at both natural and artificial habitats and not affected by lack of surrounding adult algal individuals nor by substratum orientation. Transplantation success was limited by biotic disturbance from macrograzers on CDS compared to natural habitats. Future work should explore the reasons behind the different ecological functioning of artificial and natural habitats unraveling the factors and mechanisms that cause it. The comprehension of the functioning of systems associated with artificial habitats is the key to allow environmental managers to identify proper mitigation options and to forecast the impact of alternative coastal development plans.

Aeolian geomorphodynamics in endorheic basins of the Mongolian Gobi Desert

Die vorliegende Arbeit ist im Zuge des DFG Projektes Spätpleistozäne, holozäne und aktuelle Geomorphodynamik in abflusslosen Becken der Mongolischen Gobi´´ entstanden. Das Arbeitsgebiet befindet sich in der südlichen Mongolei im nördlichen Teil der Wüste Gobi. Neben einigen Teilen der Sahara (Heintzenberg, 2009), beispielsweise das Bodélé Becken des nördlichen Tschads (z.B. Washington et al., 2006a; Todd et al., 2006; Warren et al., 2007) wird Zentralasien als ein Hauptliefergebiet für Partikel in die globale Zirkulation der Atmosphäre gesehen (Goudie, 2009). Hauptaugenmerk liegt hierbei besonders auf den abflusslosen Becken und deren Sedimentablagerungen. Die, der Deflation ausgesetzten Flächen der Seebecken, sind hauptsächliche Quelle für Partikel die sich in Form von Staub respektive Sand ausbreiten. Im Hinblick auf geomorphologische Landschaftsentwicklung wurde der Zusammenhang von Beckensedimenten zu Hangdepositionen numerisch simuliert. Ein von Grunert and Lehmkuhl (2004) publiziertes Model, angelehnt an Ideen von Pye (1995) wird damit in Betracht gezogen. Die vorliegenden Untersuchungen modellieren Verbreitungsmechanismen auf regionaler Ebene ausgehend von einer größeren Anzahl an einzelnen punktuellen Standorten. Diese sind repräsentativ für die einzelnen geomorphologischen Systemglieder mit möglicherweise einer Beteiligung am Budget aeolischer Geomorphodynamik. Die Bodenbedeckung durch das charakteristische Steinpflaster der Gobi - Region, sowie unter anderem Korngrößenverteilungen der Oberflächensedimente wurden untersucht. Des Weiteren diente eine zehnjährige Zeitreihe (Jan 1998 bis Dez 2007) meteorologischer Daten als Grundlage zur Analyse der Bedingungen für äolische Geomorphodynamik. Die Daten stammen von 32 staatlichen mongolischen Wetterstationen aus der Region und Teile davon wurden für die Simulationen verwendet. Zusätzlich wurden atmosphärische Messungen zur Untersuchung der atmosphärischen Stabilität und ihrer tageszeitlichen Variabilität mit Mess-Drachenaufstiegen vorgenommen. Die Feldbefunde und auch die Ergebnisse der Laboruntersuchungen sowie der Datensatz meteorologischer Parameter dienten als Eingangsparameter für die Modellierungen. Emissionsraten der einzelnen Standorte und die Partikelverteilung im 3D Windfeld wurden modelliert um die Konvektivität der Beckensedimente und Hangdepositionen zu simulieren. Im Falle hoher mechanischer Turbulenz der bodennahen Luftschicht (mit einhergehender hoher Wind Reibungsgeschwindigkeit), wurde generell eine neutrale Stabilität festgestellt und die Simulationen von Partikelemission sowie deren Ausbreitung und Deposition unter neutraler Stabilitätsbedingung berechnet. Die Berechnung der Partikelemission wurde auf der Grundlage eines sehr vereinfachten missionsmodells in Anlehnung an bestehende Untersuchungen (Laurent et al., 2006; Darmenova et al., 2009; Shao and Dong, 2006; Alfaro, 2008) durchgeführt. Sowohl 3D Windfeldkalkulationen als auch unterschiedliche Ausbreitungsszenarien äolischer Sedimente wurden mit dem kommerziellen Programm LASAT® (Lagrange-Simulation von Aerosol-Transport) realisiert. Diesem liegt ein Langargischer Algorithmus zugrunde, mittels dessen die Verbreitung einzelner Partikel im Windfeld mit statistischer Wahrscheinlichkeit berechnet wird. Über Sedimentationsparameter kann damit ein Ausbreitungsmodell der Beckensedimente in Hinblick auf die Gebirgsfußflächen und -hänge generiert werden. Ein weiterer Teil der Untersuchungen beschäftigt sich mit der geochemischen Zusammensetzung der Oberflächensedimente. Diese Proxy sollte dazu dienen die simulierten Ausbreitungsrichtungen der Partikel aus unterschiedlichen Quellregionen nach zu verfolgen. Im Falle der Mongolischen Gobi zeigte sich eine weitestgehende Homogenität der Minerale und chemischen Elemente in den Sedimenten. Laser Bebohrungen einzelner Sandkörner zeigten nur sehr leichte Unterschiede in Abhängigkeit der Quellregionen. Die Spektren der Minerale und untersuchten Elemente deuten auf graitische Zusammensetzungen hin. Die, im Untersuchungsgebiet weit verbreiteten Alkali-Granite (Jahn et al., 2009) zeigten sich als hauptverantwortlich für die Sedimentproduktion im Untersuchungsgebiet. Neben diesen Mineral- und Elementbestimmungen wurde die Leichtmineralfraktion auf die Charakteristik des Quarzes hin untersucht. Dazu wurden Quarzgehalt, Kristallisation und das Elektronen-Spin-Resonanz Signal des E’1 - Centers in Sauerstoff Fehlstellungen des SiO2 Gitters bestimmt. Die Untersuchungen sind mit dem Methodenvorschlag von Sun et al. (2007) durchgeführt worden und sind prinzipiell gut geeignet um Herkunftsanalysenrndurchzuführen. Eine signifikante Zuordnung der einzelnen Quellgebiete ist jedoch auch in dieser Proxy nicht zu finden gewesen.