After Darkly Catwalk Design, QUT Fashion Graduate Showcase 2013

QUT Fashion collaborated with QUT Interior Design to design the Catwalk for the After Darkly Graduate Fashion Show 2013. The ephemeral work (catwalk canopy) was developed through a collaboration between the authors based upon an undergraduate interior design unit 'Filmic Interiors'. The unit exploited the potential of film to influence, understand, and develop novel interior spaces – particularly through consideration of mise en scene, cinematic effects and atmospheric design strategies engaged by key film directors. The design outcome represented a hybridisation of student design proposals, contemplating both film and emerging fashion collections from QUT fashion graduate class of 2013. The creative work built upon material experimentation research explored by the designers either through prior QUT interior design units ('Strange Spaces') or through previous practice ‘Making Strange’(1). The work explored a number of iterations each testing material qualities and associated immaterial cinematic affects. The final catwalk proposed a unique design, which posited the spectators centrally within the space, encircled by a hand formed flexible material canopy used as an entrance for the fashion collections. The proposal exploited the malleable yet tensile character of the canopy to inform a temporary installation, intensified further through a varied program of sceno-graphic lighting. (1) Lindquist, M. & Pytel, A. (2013)

Spinning a sustainable yarn : environmental sustainability and brand story in the Australian fashion industry

In the Australian fashion industry, few fashion brands have intervened in the design of their products or the systems around their product to tackle environmental pollution and waste. Instead, support of charities (whether social or environmental) has become conflated with sustainability in the eyes of the public. Thus it is difficult to assess with any accuracy fashion brands’ response to sustainability. This article aims to address this through proposing a categorization system to structure the various interventions that a company may make. This system is applied to two case studies, analysing campaigns that respond to environmental sustainability by two established Australian brands, Country Road and Billabong. The case studies demonstrate how the interventions employed by a company, at least in the Australian context, are carefully developed to align with their brand story, revealing the interplay between the intangible aspects of a brand’s positioning and the tangible, measurable impacts of their garments.

Wearable technology: The next frontier?

The ways in which technology mediates daily activities is shifting rapidly. Global trends point toward the uptake of ambient and interactive media to create radical new ways of working, interacting and socialising. Tech giants such as Google and Apple are banking on the success of this emerging market by investing in new future focused consumer products such as Google Glass and the Apple Watch. The potential implications of ubiquitous technological interactions via tangible and ambient media have never been more real or more accessible.

Risk management strategies using seasonal climate forecasting in irrigated cotton production: a tale of stochastic dominance.

Decision-making in agriculture is carried out in an uncertain environment with farmers often seeking information to reduce risk. As a result of the extreme variability of rainfall and stream-flows in north-eastern Australia, water supplies for irrigated agriculture are a limiting factor and a source of risk. The present study examined the use of seasonal climate forecasting (SCF) when calculating planting areas for irrigated cotton in the northern Murray Darling Basin. Results show that minimising risk by adjusting plant areas in response to SCF can lead to significant gains in gross margin returns. However, how farmers respond to SCF is dependent on several other factors including irrigators’ attitude towards risk.

The story of … the military jacket

Fashion and war don’t seem an obvious pairing, but the military jacket is a fashion staple. It may take the form of a double-breasted dress uniform with brass buttons and epaulettes, trimmed in rock star braid, or it may be a khaki combat jacket, worn with Doc Martens and a scowl. Here I explore how these two forms of the military jacket were frogmarched into fashion...

Remember or Revive: Alice Payne and the Gold Coast and Hinterland Historical Society

In this creative practice work, designer Alice Payne examines the history of twentieth century Queensland fashion icon Paula Stafford, and interprets her story into an illustrated narrative and textile print. Paula Stafford was a swimwear designer operating in the Gold Coast, Queensland Australia 1940s to 1980s, and is credited with bringing the bikini to Australia. This project was commissioned by The Fashion Archives as part of their series Remember or Revive, in which the curators partnered designers with museums to reinterpret historical costume for a contemporary fashion audience. To develop the project, Payne visited The Gold Coast and Hinterland Historical Society to view Paula Stafford’s swimwear, resortwear, photographs, newspaper articles, fabric swatches and other artefacts relating to Stafford’s practice. Through examining Stafford’s work and history, Payne developed a series of designs based on the story and the experience of viewing and handling the garments. Research statement Fashion history is often experienced via static museum displays of garments and photographs from the period, and this research examines other means through which the archive and the fashion museum collection may be reinterpreted and made fresh. It does this in two ways: first, the work interprets a story from fashion history for a contemporary audience. Second, the project illuminates the fashion design process by demonstrating how garments from the past may be reinterpreted to inspire contemporary textile prints. The Paula Stafford collection at The Gold Coast and Hinterland Historical Society has a number of garments and photographs on display, however these only show a partial picture of the richness of Stafford’s work and legacy. Undertaking a practice-led methodology, in the course of developing the work, Payne examined the archive in order to interpret Stafford’s contribution to Queensland fashion through photography, narrative, and illustration. The work contributes to research into historical fashion curation and interpretation. The work appeared in Issue 11, March 2014 of the The Fashion Archives, an online publication by fashion curators Nadia Buick and Madeline King. The Fashion Archives has received funding from Arts Queensland, State Library Queensland and Creative Partnerships Australia and has published over 200 articles and projects related to Queensland Style. The Fashion Archives is the first project to examine in depth Queensland fashion history. As Paula Stafford is one of Queensland’s most iconic designers, this project is significant in being the first to examine her legacy through creative practice. The Fashion Archives was established in 2013 and involvement is by invitation from the curators.

Counting the cost of fast fashion

There’s a polyester mullet skirt gracing a derrière near you. It’s short at the front, long at the back, and it’s also known as the hi-lo skirt. Like fads that preceded it, the mullet skirt has a short fashion life, and although it will remain potentially wearable for years, it’s likely to soon be heading to the charity shop or to landfill...

The story of … the top hat

Throughout the 19th century, the top hat was a mainstay of Victorian life: a man in a topper was well-to-do, respectable, a man of industry. But now the top hat is only a caricature of the upper class privilege it once represented. Its history traces a line through dandies, beavers, silk, and madness...

Helicoverpa armigera (Hubner): can wheat stubble protect cotton plants against attack?

When investigating strategies for Helicoverpa armigera (Hubner) control, it is important to understand oviposition behaviour. Cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) was sown into standing wheat (Triticum astivum L.) stubble in a closed arena to investigate the effect of stubble on H. armigera moth behaviour and oviposition. Infrared cameras were used to track moths and determine whether stubble acted as a physical barrier or provided camouflage to cotton plants, thereby reducing oviposition. Searching activity was observed to peak shortly before dawn (03:00 and 04:00 h) and remained high until just after dawn (4 h window). Moths spent more time resting on cotton plants than spiralling above them, and the least time flying across the arena. While female moths spent more time searching for cotton plants growing in wheat stubble, the difference in oviposition was not significant. As similar numbers of eggs were laid on cotton plants with stubble (3.5/plant SE +/- 0.87) and without stubble (2.5/plant SE +/- 0.91), wheat stubble does not appear to provide camouflage to cotton plants. There was no significant difference in the location of eggs deposited on cotton plants with and without stubble, although more eggs were laid on the tops of cotton leaves in wheat stubble. As the spatial and temporal distribution of eggs laid on the cotton plant is a crucial component of population stability, eggs laid on the upper side of leaves on cotton plants may be more prone to fatalities caused by environmental factors such as wind and rain. Therefore, although stubble did not influence the number of eggs laid, it did affect their distribution on the plant, which may result in increased mortality of eggs on cotton plants sown into standing wheat stubble.

Phosphorus concentrations in the leaves of cotton in tropical Australia are determined by temperature.

Previous research on P leaf analysis for detecting deficiencies in cotton (Gossypium hirsutum L.) has not considered temperature as a determining factor. This is despite correlations between leaf P content and temperature being observed in other crops. As part of research into a new cotton farming system for the semi-arid tropics of Australia, we conducted two P fertiliser rate experiments on recently cleared un-cropped (bicarbonate P < 5 mg kg- 1) and previously cropped (bicarbonate P 26 mg kg- 1) soil. They aimed to develop P requirements and more importantly to determine if temperature affects the leaf P concentrations used to diagnose P deficiencies. In 2002, optimal yield on un-cropped, low P soil was achieved with a 60 kg P ha- 1 rate. In 2003, residual P from the 40 kg P ha- 1 treatment produced optimal yield. On cropped, high P soil there was no yield response to treatments up to 100 kg P ha- 1. On low P soil, a positive correlation was observed between P concentration in the youngest fully-unfurled leaf (YFUL), fertiliser rate, and mean diurnal temperature in the seven days prior to sampling. On high P soil, a positive correlation was observed between the YFUL and mean diurnal temperature however there was no correlation with fertiliser rate. These results show that YFUL analysis can be used to diagnose P deficiencies in cotton, provided the temperature prior to sampling is considered.

Phosphorus nutrition and tolerance of cotton to water stress: II. Water relations, free and bound water and leaf expansion rate

In previous experiments, increased leaf-Phosphorus (P) content with increasing P supply enhanced the individual leaf expansion and water content of fresh cotton leaves in a severely drying soil. In this paper, we report on the bulk water content of leaves and its components, free and bound water, along with other measures of plant water status, in expanding cotton leaves of various ages in a drying soil with different P concentrations. The bound water in living tissue is more likely to play a major role in tolerance to abiotic stresses by maintaining the structural integrity and/or cell wall extensibility of the leaves, whilst an increased amount of free water might be able to enhance solute accumulation, leading to better osmotic adjustment and tolerance to water stress, and maintenance of the volumes of sub-cellular compartments for expansive leaf growth. There were strong correlations between leaf-P%, leaf water (total, free and bound water) and leaf expansion rate (LER) under water stress conditions in a severely drying soil. Increased soil-P enhanced the uptake of P from a drying soil, leading to increased supply of osmotically active inorganic solutes to the cells in growing leaves. This appears to have led to the accumulation of free water and more bound water, ultimately leading to increased leaf expansion rates as compared to plants in low P soil under similar water stress conditions. The greater amount of bound and free water in the high-P plants was not necessarily associated with changes in cell turgor, and appears to have maintained the cell-wall properties and extensibility under water stressed conditions in soils that are nutritionally P-deficient.

Phosphorus nutrition and tolerance of cotton to water stress I. Seed cotton yield and leaf morphology

Seed cotton yield and morphological changes in leaf growth were examined under drying soil with different phosphorus (P) concentrations in a tropical climate. Frequent soil drying is likely to induce a decrease in nutrients particularly P due to reduced diffusion and poor uptake, in addition to restrictions in available water, with strong interactive effects on plant growth and functioning. Increased soil P in field and in-ground soil core studies increased the seed cotton yield and related morphological growth parameters in a drying soil, with hot (daily maximum temperature >33°C) and dry conditions (relative humidity, 25% to 35%), particularly during peak boll formation and filling stage. The soil water content in the effective rooting zone (top 0.4 m) decreased to -1.5 MPa by day 5 of the soil drying cycle. However, the increased seed cotton yield for the high-P plants was closely related to increasing leaf area with increased P supply. Plant height, leaf fresh mass and leaf area per plant were positively related to the leaf P%, which increased with increasing P supply. Low P plants were lower in plant height, leaf area, and leaf tissue water in the drying soil. Individual leaf area and the water content of the fresh leaf (ratio of dry mass to fresh mass) were significantly dependent on leaf P%.

Temporal variation in arthropod sampling effectiveness: The case for using the beat sheet method in cotton

Predatory insects and spiders are key elements of integrated pest management (IPM) programmes in agricultural crops such as cotton. Management decisions in IPM programmes should to be based on a reliable and efficient method for counting both predators and pests. Knowledge of the temporal constraints that influence sampling is required because arthropod abundance estimates are likely to vary over a growing season and within a day. Few studies have adequately quantified this effect using the beat sheet, a potentially important sampling method. We compared the commonly used methods of suction and visual sampling to the beat sheet, with reference to an absolute cage clamp method for determining the abundance of various arthropod taxa over 5 weeks. There were significantly more entomophagous arthropods recorded using the beat sheet and cage clamp methods than by using suction or visual sampling, and these differences were more pronounced as the plants grew. In a second trial, relative estimates of entomophagous and phytophagous arthropod abundance were made using beat sheet samples collected over a day. Beat sheet estimates of the abundance of only eight of the 43 taxa examined were found to vary significantly over a day. Beat sheet sampling is recommended in further studies of arthropod abundance in cotton, but researchers and pest management advisors should bear in mind the time of season and time of day effects.

Soil properties and crop yields in a dryland Vertisol sown with cotton-based crop rotations

Information on the effects of growing cotton (Gossypium hirsutum L.)-based crop rotations on soil quality of dryland Vertisols is sparse. The objective of this study was to quantify the effects of growing cereal and leguminous crops in rotation with dryland cotton on physical and chemical properties of a grey Vertisol near Warra, SE Queensland, Australia. The experimental treatments, selected after consultations with local cotton growers, were continuous cotton (T1), cotton-sorghum (Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench.) (T2), cotton-wheat (Triticum aestivum L.) double cropped (T3), cotton-chickpea (Cicer arietinum L.) double cropped followed by wheat (T4) and cotton-wheat (T5). From 1993 to 1996 land preparation was by chisel ploughing to about 0.2 m followed by two to four cultivations with a Gyral tyne cultivator. Thereafter all crops were sown with zero tillage except for cultivation with a chisel plough to about 0.07-0.1 m after cotton picking to control heliothis moth pupae. Soil was sampled from 1996 to 2004 and physical (air-filled porosity of oven-dried soil, an indicator of soil compaction; plastic limit; linear shrinkage; dispersion index) and chemical (pH in 0.01 M CaCl2, organic carbon, exchangeable Ca, Mg, K and Na contents) properties measured. Crop rotation affected soil properties only with respect to exchangeable Na content and air-filled porosity. In the surface 0.15 m during 2000 and 2001 lowest air-filled porosity occurred with T1 (average of 34.6 m3/100 m3) and the highest with T3 (average of 38.9 m3/100 m3). Air-filled porosity decreased in the same depth between 1997 and 1998 from 45.0 to 36.1 m3/100 m3, presumably due to smearing and compaction caused by shallow cultivation in wet soil. In the subsoil, T1 and T2 frequently had lower air-filled porosity values in comparison with T3, T4 and T5, particularly during the early stages of the experiment, although values under T1 increased subsequently. In general, compaction was less under rotations which included a wheat crop (T3, T4, T5). For example, average air-filled porosity (in m3/100 m3) in the 0.15-0.30 m depth from 1996 to 1999 was 19.8 with both T1 and T2, and 21.2 with T3, 21.1 with T4 and 21.5 with T5. From 2000 to 2004, average air-filled porosity (in m3/100 m3) in the same depth was 21.3 with T1, 19.0 with T2, 19.8 with T3, 20.0 with T4 and 20.5 with T5. The rotation which included chickpea (T4) resulted in the lowest exchangeable Na content, although differences among rotations were small. Where only a cereal crop with a fibrous root system was sown in rotation with cotton (T2, T3, T5) linear shrinkage in the 0.45-0.60 m depth was lower than in rotations, which included tap-rooted crops such as chickpea (T4) or continuous cotton (T1). Dispersion index and organic carbon decreased, and plastic limit increased with time. Soil organic carbon stocks decreased at a rate of 1.2 Mg/ha/year. Lowest average cotton lint yield occurred with T2 (0.54 Mg/ha) and highest wheat yield with T3 (2.8 Mg/ha). Rotations which include a wheat crop are more likely to result in better soil structure and cotton lint yield than cotton-sorghum or continuous cotton.

Hidden trails: Visualizing arthropod silk

Arthropods are known to use silk for a number of different purposes including web construction, shelter building, leaf tying, construction of pupal cocoons, and as a safety line when dislodged from a substrate (Alexander, 1961; Fitzgerald, 1983; Common, 1990). Across the arthropods, silk displays a diversity of material properties and chemical constituents and is produced from glands with different evolutionary origins (Craig, 1997). Among insects, larval Lepidoptera are prolific producers of silk. Because many lepidopteran larvae are pests, an ability to interfere with silk production or, at the very least, an understanding of how silk is used, could provide new options for pest control. After testing many known fluorescent dyes, we found that Fluorescent Brightener 28 (also known as Calcofluor White M2R) (Sigma-Aldrich Pty Ltd, Sydney, NSW, Australia), an optical brightener used in the textile industry, binds to arthropod silk in a simple staining reaction, causing it to fluoresce under ultraviolet (UV) light. Such brighteners have also been used in insect gut content analysis (Schlein & Muller, 1995; Hugo et al., 2003). Here we describe the method of visualizing arthropod silk on plant surfaces, using as a model the thin, barely visible, single strands of silk produced by Helicoverpa armigera (Hübner) (Lepidoptera: Noctuidae) neonates.