Undressing Kellerman, Uncovering Broadhurst : the modern woman and "un-Australia"

This article explores the contributions of two unique Australian women, Annette Kellerman and Florence Broadhurst, to global fashion and aesthetics through subverting and challenging female gender roles of the early twentieth century. These two women are brought together here as a means of highlighting their markedly contrasting social tactics: undressing versus layering. Kellerman's body became an instrument in her quest for global fame, engaging in daring public "undress" in swimming and diving performances around the world that served to show case her innovative swimwear design. In contrast, Broadhurst, through repeated reconstructions of her persona and constant relayering of identities, concocted versions of herself in order to pass through Shanghai, London, and Sydney societies. Their lives exist as binaristic parallels, expressing contrasting values of un-Australianness - the disavowal of national identity; and Australianness - the promotion of national identity. Both Kellerman and Broadhurst tested the limits of body, dress and national identity as vehicles for global recognition. The recent interest in their historical roles is evidenced in the films "The original Mermaid"( 2004) and "Unfolding Florence" (2005) in addition to numerous books and journal articles. Despite this resurgent public recognition of their lives and achievements, scholarly analysis of their legacies in the fields of fashion and design are still relatively neglected. This article explores their contributions to celebrity and modernity, fashion and gender as modern un-Australian women.

Diagramming the interior

Mark Taylor's new essay assesses the impact of the diagram on interior design from the late 19th century to the present. Taylor identifies the pop-cultural discourse of advice writing in both books and magazines as a starting point for his analysis. Drawing on diverse sources, his analysis focuses on texts relating to the dynamics of use and flexibility by Catherine Beecher, Harriet Beecher Stowe, Melusina Fay Peirce, Mary Haweis and Christine Frederick among others. The examples in these texts use the home, domestic housekeeping and kitchens as the sites and practices of intervention through which interior design innovations can be enacted. Taylor's analysis identified the innovations in both the social and the political aspects of space and the critique of static space behind these seemingly amateurish and innocuous texts. Identifying these contributions as early precursors of Modernism's open-plan and flexible, dynamic spaces, Taylor also interprets them with a critical concern for the oppositions and hierarchies that can exist in spatial design, and which are the hallmarks of recent Postmodern, phenomenological approaches to interior design and its theorisations. The progressive and subversive "paradigms for living" implicit in these diagrams can be argued to present a model of greater economic, social and political equality as well as representing a more balanced set of power relations in the home. Progressing through the 20th century to the present, Taylor's analysis shifts byond the dressed body and on to the more intimate rituals of the revealed body to further examine how diagrams of the interior, and the interior as a set of diagrams, are also mediators, sites and grounds for the design of social and sexual intimacy. Through a consideration of the link between design, indentity and intimacy (whether of the invisible, fashioned or sexualised body), the diagrms of interiors are reconfigured as radical and critical tools for an animate, material and emancipatory "redressing" of the balance between the body, identity, sexuality, gender, function, mis(use), aesthetics and the interior.

'Black is beautiful', and Indigenous : Aboriginal authorship in Australian popular music

The ‘black is beautiful’ movement began in the United States in the early sixties, and changed mainstream attitudes towards the body, fashion and personal aesthetics, gaining African American people a new sense of pride in being – and being called – ‘black’. In Australia the movement also had implications for changing the political meanings of ‘black’ in white society. However, it is not until the last decade, through the global influence of Afro-American music, that a distinctly Indigenous sense of black sexiness has captured the attention of mainstream audiences. The article examines such recent developments, and suggests that, through the appropriation of Afro-American aesthetics and styles, Indigenous producers and performers have developed new forms of Indigenous public agency, demonstrating that black is beautiful, and Indigenous.

Industrial Relations: Proceedings from the 1999 Australasian Drama Studies Association Conference

These papers were presented at “Industrial Relations”, the Australasian Drama Studies Association conference hosted by Theatre & Teaching Studies in the Academy of the Arts, Queensland University of Technology, from the 5th to the 9th of July, 1999. Conference delegates included scholars and artists from across the tertiary education and professional theatre sectors, including, of course, many individuals who work across and between both those worlds. More than a hundred delegates from Australia, New Zealand, England, Belgium and Canada attended the week’s events, which included: • Over sixty conference papers covering a variety of topics from project reports to academy/industry partnerships, theatre history, audience reception studies, health & safety, cultural policy, performance theory, theatre technology and more; • Performances ranging from drama to dance, music and cabaret; • Workshops, panel discussions, forums and interviews; • Keynote addresses from Wesley Enoch, Josette Feral and Keith Johnstone; and • A special “Links with Industry” day, which included the launch of ADSA’s “Links with Industry” brochure, an interview between Mark Radvan and David Williamson, and a panel session featuring Jules Holledge, Zane Trow, Katharine Brisbane, John Kotzas, Gay McAuley and David Watt.

An old language for a new landscape

Because aesthetics can have a profound effect upon the human relationship to the non-human environment the importance of aesthetics to ecologically sustainable designed landscapes has been acknowledged. However, in recognition that the physical forms of designed landscapes are an expression of the social values of the time, some design professionals have called for a new aesthetic ― one that reflects these current ecological concerns. To address this, some authors have suggested various theoretical design frameworks upon which such an aesthetic could be based. Within these frameworks there is an underlying theme that the patterns and processes of natural systems have the potential to form a new aesthetic for landscape design —an aesthetic based on fractal rather than Euclidean geometry. Perry, Reeves and Sim (2008) have shown that it is possible to differentiate between different landscape forms by fractal analysis. However, this research also shows that individual scenes from within very different landscape forms can possess the same fractal properties. Early data, revealed by transforming landscape images from the spatial to the frequency domain, using the fast Fourier transform, suggest that fractal patterning can have a significant effect within the landscape. In fact, it may be argued that any landscape design that includes living processes will include some design element whose ultimate form can only be expressed through the mathematics of fractal geometry. This paper will present ongoing research into the potential role of fractal geometry as a basis for a new form language – a language that may articulate an aesthetic for landscape design that echoes our ecological awakening.

Yet to be known

TBA: Triptych: Digital Print, PVC Text, Acrylic Sheet Total Size: 252cm x 119cm---------- The work employs text based representations of indigenous plants (3500 species names) and quotations from an eminent botanist. This information is spatialised to represent the geographic area within which the plants where recorded (by others-Gov’t database).---------- The work was exhibited at Eyes wide open (curators K Bradby and A Brandenberg) which was held at Gorepani Gallery, Albany WA to coincide with the first national screening on SBS Television of the Western Australian documentary A Million Acres a Year (Rijavec, F, Harrison, N & Bradby K (directors), Snakewood Films & Film Australia, c2003).

Many Mount Barrens

Cibachrome photographic prints, Digital print, Acrylic Sheet , wire & card.--------- Total size: 170cm x 119cm x 15cm---------- The work employs a terrestrial photography and cartographic technique to represent a diversity of landscape types surrounding West Mt Barren in Western Australia. Sixteen views of West Mt Barren were captured over a two week period from map grid coordinates in the surround landscape. These images are configured in Many Mount Barrens in a manner which corresponds to the position from which they were recorded.---------- The work was exhibited at Eyes wide open (curators K Bradby and A Brandenberg) which was held at Gorepani Gallery, Albany WA to coincide with the first national screening on SBS Television of the Western Australian documentary A Million Acres a Year (Rijavec, F, Harrison, N & Bradby K (directors), Snakewood Films & Film Australia, c2003).

Sandplain

Triptych: Digital print, Acrylic Sheet--------- Total size: 252 cm x 119cm---------- The work employs text based representations of agricultural plants (26 species names). This information is spatialised to represent the geographic area within which the plant species are harvested.---------- The work was exhibited at Eyes wide open (curators K Bradby and A Brandenberg) which was held at Gorepani Gallery, Albany WA to coincide with the first national screening on SBS Television of the Western Australian documentary A Million Acres a Year (Rijavec, F, Harrison, N & Bradby K (directors), Snakewood Films & Film Australia, c2003).

Blackcloud

The work was derived from terrestrial laser scan data of a bio-diverse landscape on the SE coast of Western Australia. The digital three dimensional scan data has been converged and then a portion of that computer aided design (CAD) file has been captured via ‘screen capture’ to produce Blackcloud.---------- The primary intention behind the production of the work was to expand understanding on the means of representing and then designing for sites in ‘kwongan’ landscapes which are constituted by highly biodiverse, bushfire prone heath vegetation.

Before and after the fire

The work was derived from terrestrial laser scan data of a bio-diverse landscape on the SE coast of Western Australia. The scanning was conducted both before and after a significant bushfire event. The digital three dimensional scan data has been converged and then abstracted into a two dimensional vertical sections or slice which reveals the vegetal surface of heath vegetation and the surface of the landform.---------- This abstraction converts the complex data into spatial information so that it is meaningful in the context the architectural and landscape architectural design process. The primary intention behind the production of the work was to expand understanding on the means of representing and then designing for sites in ‘kwongan’ landscapes which are constituted by highly biodiverse, bushfire prone heath vegetation.

Heathsections

The work was derived from terrestrial laser scan data of a bio-diverse landscape on the SE coast of Western Australia. The three dimensional scan data has been abstracted into two dimensional side sections or slices – in a manner which converts the complex data into spatial information which is meaningful in the context of the act of architectural and landscape architectural design. The primary intention behind the production of the work was to expand understanding on the means of representation of ‘kwongan’ landscapes which are constituted by highly biodiverse - and thus difficult to measure - heath vegetation.

Windscape

Windscape is a graphic work produced from information gathered in the field by the author. A number of measurement methods were employed including: Real Tine Kinematic Global Positioning System survey (RTKGPS), still photography, plant distribution studies and handheld GPS survey. This creative work is one outcome of the author’s research into a design methodology wherein the designer conducts their own measurements and then produces their own maps of sites. Windscape is a test of the hypothesis that such maps have greater relevance to the design process due to the manner in which they are created (site based research) and the information they depict, namely the relationships between landscape processes and structures.

Botanical matrix

Botanical matrix is a graphic map produced via a process involving an initial site installation (350 m contour transect), a botanical survey and photographic documentation of species. The site is a housing subdivision at Point Henry, on the SE coast of Western Australia which is a landscape which is host the most botanically diverse vegetation found worldwide - known locally as 'kwongan'. Notoriously difficult vegetation to measure and map, kwongan is a visual 'engima', for paradoxically it appears to the lay person as visually bland and highly homogenous. There is thus is a critical need for the development of new forms of representation which overcome the barriers between the perception and reality of this botanical condition. Botanical Matrix is one result of the author's research which seeks to address this important problem.

Can't see the water for the trees

The work was both conceived and constructed in-situ within Gnombup Swamp a seasonal water body at Bremer Bay, Western Australia. The work interacts with site-specific conditions including wind patterns and a datum of seasonal water levels marks. The work is the result of collaboration between soil scientist Paula Deegan and Ian Weir. The installation was documented with a series of 30 still digital photographs, later animated in Microsoft Powerpoint.

Horizonal

Horizonal was derived from terrestrial laser scan data of a bio-diverse landscape on the SE coast of Western Australia. The digital three dimensional scan data has been converged with geospatial survey of the landform captured through RTKGPS survey technology. Also incorporated into the image is a series of photographs taken using a photogrammetric technique wherein the position and view angle of each photograph is measured relative to a geographic datum point. The primary intention behind the production of the work was to expand understandings on the relationship between scenic photography and geospatial maps of remote, bio-diverse landscapes which are experiencing urban development for the first time.