Economic and social upgrading in global production networks: A new paradigm for a changing world

A key challenge in promoting decent work worldwide is how to improve the position of both firms and workers in value chains and global production networks driven by lead firms. This article develops a framework for analysing the linkages between the economic upgrading of firms and the social upgrading of workers. Drawing on studies which indicate that firm upgrading does not necessarily lead to improvements for workers, with a particular focus on the Moroccan garment industry, it outlines different trajectories and scenarios to provide a better understanding of the relationship between economic and social upgrading. The authors 2011 Journal compilation �� International Labour Organization 2011.

Introduction: The apparel industry and North American economic integration

The economic and social consequences of international trade agreements have become a major area of inquiry in development studies in recent years. As evidenced by the energetic protests surrounding the Seattle meeting of the World Trade Organization (WTO) in December 1999 and the controversy about China's admission to the WTO, such agreements have also become a focus of political conflict in both the developed and developing countries. At issue are questions of job gains and job losses in different regions, prices paid by consumers, acceptable standards for wages and working conditions in transnational manufacturing industries, and the quality of the environment. All these concerns have arisen with regard to the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) and can be addressed through an examination of changes in the dynamics of the apparel industry in the post-NAFTA period.1 In this book, we examine the evolution of the apparel industry in North America in order to address some of these questions as they pertain to North America, with an eye toward the broader implications of our findings. We also consider the countries of the Caribbean Basin and Central America, whose textile and apparel goods are now allowed to enter the U.S. market on the same basis as those from Canada and Mexico (Odessey 2000). �� 2009 by Temple University Press. All rights reserved.

NAFTA and the apparel commodity chain: Corporate strategies, interfirm networks, and industrial upgrading

The apparel industry is one of the oldest and largest export industries in the world, with global trade and production networks that connect firms and workers in countries at all levels of economic development. This chapter examines the impact of the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) as one of the most recent and significant developments to affect patterns of international trade and production in the apparel and textile industries. Tr ade policies are changing the institutional environment in which firms in this industry operate, and companies are responding to these changes with new strategies designed to increase their profitability and strengthen their control over the apparel commodity chain. Our hypothesis is that lead firms are establishing qualitatively different kinds of regional production networks in North America from those that existed prior to NAFTA, and that these networks have important consequences for industrial upgrading in the Mexican textile and apparel industries. Post-NAFTA crossborder production arrangements include full-package networks that link lead firms in the United States with apparel and textile manufacturers, contractors, and suppliers in Mexico. Full-package production is increasing the local value added provided by the apparel commodity chain in Mexico and creating new opportunities for Mexican firms and workers. The chapter is divided into four main sections. The first section uses trade and production data to analyze shifts in global apparel flows, highlighting the emergence and consolidation of a regional trade bloc in North America. The second section discusses the process of industrial upgrading in the apparel industry and introduces a distinction between assembly and full-package production networks. The third section includes case studies based on published industry sources and strategic interviews with several lead companies whose strategies are largely responsible for the shifting trade patterns and NAFTA-inspired cross-border production networks discussed in the previous section. The fourth section considers the implications of these changes for employment in the North American apparel industry. �� 2009 by Temple University Press. All rights reserved.

NAFTA and uneven development in the North American apparel industry

The various contributions to this book have documented how NAFTA-inspired firm strategies are changing the geography of apparel production in North America. The authors show in myriad ways how companies at different positions along the apparel commodity chain are responding to the new institutional and regulatory environment that NAFTA creates. By making it easier for U.S. companies to take advantage of Mexico as a nearby low-cost site for export-oriented apparel production, NAFTA is deepening the regional division of labor within North America, and this process has consequences for firms and workers in each of the signatory countries. In the introduction to this book we alluded to the obvious implications of shifting investment and trade patterns in the North American apparel industry for employment in the different countries. In this concluding chapter we focus on Mexico in the NAFTA era, specifically the extent to which Mexico's role in the North American economy facilitates or inhibits its economic development. W e begin with a discussion of the contemporary debate about Mexico's development, which turns on the question of how to assess the implications of Mexico's rapid and pro-found process of economic reform. Second, we focus on the textile and apparel industries as sectors that have been significantly affected by changes in regulatory environments at both the global and regional levels. Third, we examine the evidence regarding Mexico's NAFTA-era export dynamism, and in particular we emphasize the importance of interfirm networks, both for making sense of Mexico's meteoric rise among apparel exporters and for evaluating the implications of this dynamism for development. Fourth, we turn to a consideration of the national political-economic environment that shapes developmental outcomes for all Mexicans. Although regional disparities within Mexico are profound, aspects of government policy, such as management of the national currency, and characteristics of the institutional environment, such as industrial relations, have nationwide effects, and critics of NAFTA charge that these factors are contributing to a process of economic and social polarization that is ever more evident (Morales 1999; Dussel Peters 2000). Finally, we suggest that the mixed consequences of Mexico's NAFTA-era growth can be taken as emblematic of the contradictions that the process of globalization poses for economic and social development. The anti-sweatshop campaign in North America is one example of transnational or crossborder movements that are emerging to address the negative consequences of this process. In bringing attention to the problem of sweatshop production in North America, activists are developing strategies that rely on a network logic that is not dissimilar to the approaches reflected in the various chapters of this book. �� 2009 by Temple University Press. All rights reserved.

Adsorption isotherm models for basic dye adsorption by peat in single and binary component systems

Coloured effluents from textile industries are a problem in many rivers and waterways. Prediction of adsorption capacities of dyes by adsorbents is important in design considerations. The sorption of three basic dyes, namely Basic Blue 3, Basic Yellow 21 and Basic Red 22, onto peat is reported. Equilibrium sorption isotherms have been measured for the three single component systems. Equilibrium was achieved after twenty-one days. The experimental isotherm data were analysed using Langmuir, Freundlich, Redlich-Peterson, Temkin and Toth isotherm equations. A detailed error analysis has been undertaken to investigate the effect of using different error criteria for the determination of the single component isotherm parameters and hence obtain the best isotherm and isotherm parameters which describe the adsorption process. The linear transform model provided the highest R2 regression coefficient with the Redlich-Peterson model. The Redlich-Peterson model also yielded the best fit to experimental data for all three dyes using the non-linear error functions. An extended Langmuir model has been used to predict the isotherm data for the binary systems using the single component data. The correlation between theoretical and experimental data had only limited success due to competitive and interactive effects between the dyes and the dye-surface interactions.

GB Patent: Method of manufacture of a Composite concrete article

This Invention relates to a method of manufacture of a composite concrete article, and in particular to a method of manufacture of a concrete article having textile structures integrated into the surface of the concrete to provide a novel aesthetic and/or functional surface finish

Modelling the Geometry of the Repeat Unit Cell of Three-Dimensional Weave Architectures,

The three-dimensional (3D) weaving process offers the ability to tailor the mechanical properties via design of the weave architecture. One repeat of the 3D woven fabric is represented by the unit cell. The model accepts basic weaver and material manufacturer data as inputs in order to calculate the geometric characteristics of the 3D woven unit cell. The specific weave architecture manufactured and subsequently modelled had an angle interlock type binding configuration. The modelled result was shown to have a close approximation compared to the experimentally measured values and highlighted the importance of the representation of the binder tow path.

The effect of 3D weaving and consolidation on carbon fiber tows, fabrics, and composites

This article investigates the damage imparted on load-bearing carbon fibers during the 3D weaving process and the subsequent compaction behavior of 3D woven textile preforms. The 3D multi-layer reinforcements were manufactured on a textile loom with few mechanical modifications to produce preforms with fibers orientated in the warp, weft, and through-the-thickness directions. Tensile tests were conducted on three types of commercially available carbon fibers, 12k HTA, 6k HTS, and 3k HTS in an attempt to quantify the effect of fiber damage induced during the 3D weaving process on the mechanical and physical performance of the fiber tows in the woven composite. The tests were conducted on fiber tows sampled from different locations in the manufacturing process from the bobbin, through the creel and loom mechanism, to the final woven fabric. Mechanical and physical testing were then conducted to quantify the tow geometry, orientation and the effect of compaction during manufacture of two styles of 3D woven composite by vacuumassisted resin transfer molding (VaRTM).

Separation of acid-dyes mixture by bamboo derived active carbon

In the present study, the activated carbon is produced using phosphoric acid treatment of the waste bamboo scaffolding and activated at either 400 or 600 ��C. The effect of acid to bamboo ratio (Xp) up to 2.4 has been studied. The BET surface area increased with increasing Xp and activating temperature. BET surface area up to 2500 m2/g carbon has been produced. In order to simulate effluent treatment from textile industry, the produced carbon was tested for its dye adsorption capacities. Two acid dyes with different molecular sizes were used, namely Acid Yellow 117 (AY117) and Acid Blue 25 (AB25). In a single component system, it was found that dye with smaller molecular size, AB25, was readily adsorbed onto the carbon while the larger size dye, AY117, showed little adsorption. As a result, it is possible to tailor-make the carbon for the adsorption of dye mixtures in industrial applications, especially textile dyeing, i.e. molecular sieve effect. A binary AY117���AB25 mixture was used to test the possibility of the molecular sieve effect. Furthermore, experimental results were fitted to equilibrium isotherm models, Langmuir, Freundlich and Sips for the single component system. For the binary component system, extended single-component equilibrium isotherm models were used to predict the experimental data.

Fabrication and Ms Conduct: Scrutinising Practice Through Feminist Theory

This paper describes a collaborative practice, between an architect (the author) and a textile designer; its outcomes and the critical theoretical and feminist contexts from which the practice evolved and to which it still responds. The practice advocates the interweaving of more than the yarns, material and cultures on which it is physically based, but also the intertwining of theory and technology as a means to advance architectural practice. This is done in response to Ahrentzen���s charge to feminist scholars and practitioners to ���embrace not only the abstract conceptual nature of much postmodernist theorizing but also that derived from the serious ���hanging out���, looking at, listening to, scrutinising and theorizing lived experiences of the everyday���, in this instance the everyday practice of combining concrete and textiles.