The knock-on from the knock-off : recent shifts within Australian mass market fashion design practice

Australia's mass market fashion labels have traditionally benefitted from their peripheral location to the world's fashion centres. Operating a season behind, Australian mass market designers and buyers were well-placed to watch trends play out overseas before testing them in the Australian marketplace. For this reason, often a designer's role was to source and oversee the manufacture of 'knock-offs', or close copies of northern hemisphere mass market garments. Both Weller and Walsh have commented on this practice.12 The knock-on effect from this continues to be a cautious, derivative fashion sensibility within Australian mass market fashion design, where any new trend or product is first tested and proved overseas months earlier. However, there is evidence that this is changing. The rapid online dissemination of global fashion trends, coupled with the Australian consumer’s willingness to shop online, has meant that the ‘knock-off’ is less viable. For this reason, a number of mass market companies are moving away from the practice of direct sourcing and are developing product in-house under a northern hemisphere model. This shift is also witnessed in the trend for mass market companies to develop collections in partnership with independent Australian designers. This paper explores the current and potential effects of these shifts within Australian mass market design practice, and discusses how they may impact on both consumers and on the wider culture of Australian fashion.

Influence of drying conditions on the moisture diffusion during single stage and two stage fluidized bed drying of bovine intestine for pet food

Bovine intestine samples were heat pump fluidized bed dried at atmospheric pressure and at temperatures below and above the material freezing points equipped with a continuous monitoring system. The investigation of the drying characteristics has been conducted in the temperature range -10~25oC and the airflow in the range 1.5~2.5 m/s. Some experiments were conducted as a single temperature drying experiments and others as two stage drying experiments employing two temperatures. An Arrhenius-type equation was used to interpret the influence of the drying air parameters on the effective diffusivity, calculated with the method of slopes in terms of energy activation, and this was found to be sensitivity of the temperature. The effective diffusion coefficient of moisture transfer was determined by Fickian method using uni-dimensional moisture movement in both moisture, removal by evaporation and combined sublimation and evaporation. Correlations expressing the effective moisture diffusivity and drying temperature are reported.

Adsorption and dissociation of ammonia borane outside and inside single-walled carbon nanotubes : A density functional theory study

Amonia borane (AB) has been identified as a potential candidate highcapacity hydrogen storage material. This work probes the adsorption and dissociation of AB inside and outside single-walled carbon nanotubes (SWCNTs) within the framework of density functional theory. The dissociation barriers of AB have been calculated and compared with that of the isolated AB molecule. On the basis of the present calculations, no notable improvement results from SWCNT confinement; on the contrary, the dissociation barrier slightly increases with respect to isolated AB.

A density functional theory study of CO2 and N2 adsorption on aluminium nitride single walled nanotubes

Strong binding of isolated carbon dioxide (CO2) on aluminium nitride (AlN) single walled nanotubes is verified using two different functionals. Two optimized configurations corresponding to physisorption and chemisorption are linked by a low energy barrier, such that the chemisorbed state is accessible and thermodynamically favored at low temperatures. In contrast, N2 is found only to form a physisorbed complex with the AlN nanotube, suggesting the potential application of aluminium nitride based materials for CO2 fixation. The effect of nanotube diameter on gas adsorption properties is also discussed. The diameter is found to have an important effect on the chemisorption of CO2, but has little effect on the physisorption of either CO2 or N2.

Adsorption of carbon dioxide and nitrogen on single-layer aluminum nitride nanostructures studied by density functional theory

The adsorption of carbon dioxide and nitrogen molecules on aluminum nitride (AlN) nanostructures has been explored using first-principle computational methods. Optimized configurations corresponding to physisorption and, subsequentially, chemisorption of CO2 are identified, in contrast to N2, for which only a physisorption structure is found. Transition-state searches imply a low energy barrier between the physisorption and chemisorption states for CO2 such that the latter is accessible and thermodynamically favored at room temperature. The effective binding energy of the optimized chemisorption structure is apparently larger than those for other CO2 adsorptive materials, suggesting the potential for application of aluminum nitride nanostructures for carbon dioxide capture and storage.

Half metallicity in finite-length zigzag single walled carbon nanotube : A first-principle prediction

We predict here from first-principle calculations that finite-length (n,0) single walled carbon nanotubes (SWCNTs) with H-termination at the open ends displaying antiferromagnetic coupling when n is greater than 6. An opposite local gating effect of the spin states, i.e., half metallicity, is found under the influence of an external electric field along the direction of tube axis. Remarkably, boron doping of unpassivated SWCNTs at both zigzag edges is found to favor a ferromagnetic ground state, with the B-doped tubes displaying half-metallic behavior even in the absence of an electric field. Aside of the intrinsic interest of these results, an important avenue for development of CNT-based spintronic is suggested.

Addition of diazomethane to armchair single-walled carbon nanotubes and their reaction sequences : A computational study

The sidewall additions of diazomethane to (n, n), n = 3–10 armchair single-walled carbon nanotubes (SWCNTs) on two different orientations of C–C bonds have been studied using the ONIOM(B3LYP/6-31G(d):PM3) approach. The binding energies of SWCNTs complexes with CH2N2, CH2 and their transition-state structures were computed at the B3LYP/6-31G(d) level. The effects of diameters of armchair SWCNTs on their binding energies were studied. Relative reactivities of all the SWCNTs and their complexes based on their frontier orbital energies gaps are reported.

Structural and electronic properties of diazonium functionalized (4, 4) single walled carbon nanotube : an ab initio study

In this work, ab initio density functional theory (DFT) calculations are performed to study the structural and electronic properties of diazonium reagent functionalized (4, 4) single-walled carbon nanotube (SWCNT). We find the aryl group covalently bonds with SWCNT and prefers to be perpendicular to the side wall of nanotube. It has a rotational barrier of 0.35 eV around the formed aryl-tube bond axis and should be thermodynamically stable at room temperature. Additionally, new peaks appeared around the Fermi energy in the density of state (DOS) due to the weak band dispersion. Increasing of the coverage of the functional group will result in significant upshift of the Fermi level.

Comparing and complementing methods : traditional market research vs. deep customer insights

Quantitative market data has traditionally been used throughout marketing and business as a tool to inform and direct design decisions. However, in our changing economic climate, businesses need to innovate and create products their customers will love. Deep customer insight methods move beyond just questioning customers and aims to provoke true emotional responses in order to reveal new opportunities that go beyond functional product requirements. This paper explores traditional market research methods and compares them to methods used to gain deep customer insights. This study reports on a collaborative research project with seven small to medium enterprises and four multi-national organisations. Firms were introduced to a design led innovation approach, and were taught the different methods to gain deep customer insights. Interviews were conducted to understand the experience and outcomes of pre-existing research methods and deep customer insight approaches. Findings concluded that deep customer insights were unlikely to be revealed through traditional market research techniques. The theoretical outcome of this study is a complementary methods matrix, providing guidance on appropriate research methods in accordance to a project’s timeline.

Aircraft collision avoidance using spherical visual predictive control and single point features

This paper presents practical vision-based collision avoidance for objects approximating a single point feature. Using a spherical camera model, a visual predictive control scheme guides the aircraft around the object along a conical spiral trajectory. Visibility, state and control constraints are considered explicitly in the controller design by combining image and vehicle dynamics in the process model, and solving the nonlinear optimization problem over the resulting state space. Importantly, range is not required. Instead, the principles of conical spiral motion are used to design an objective function that simultaneously guides the aircraft along the avoidance trajectory, whilst providing an indication of the appropriate point to stop the spiral behaviour. Our approach is aimed at providing a potential solution to the See and Avoid problem for unmanned aircraft and is demonstrated through a series.

Design, sustainability and Australian mass-market fashion : three case studies

The production of fashion garments has negative environmental and social impacts that can potentially be reduced through decisions made in the design process. This research explores to what extent Australian mass-market fashion designers consider environmental sustainability within product design. The study presents three case studies from different market levels, assembled through interviews with designers, along with an analysis of the Australian mass-market fashion industry. The project provides insights into the workings of the fashion design process within mid and high volume companies, and identifies opportunities and barriers for consideration of sustainability.

Investigation of two Wnt signalling pathway single nucleotide polymorphisms in a breast cancer-affected Australian population

In the mammary gland, Wnt signals are strongly implicated in initial development of the mammary rudiments and in the ductal branching and alveolar morphogenesis that occurs during pregnancy. Previously, we identified two Wnt signaling pathway-implicated genes, PPP3CA and MARK4, as having a role in more aggressive and potentially metastatic breast tumors. In this study, we examined two SNPs within PPP3CA and MARK4 in an Australian case-control study population for a potential role in human breast cancers. 182 cases and 180 controls were successfully genotyped for the PPP3CA SNP (rs2850328) and 182 cases and 177 controls were successfully genotyped for the MARK4 SNP (rs2395) using High Resolution Melt (HRM) analysis. Genotypes of randomly selected samples for both SNPs were validated by dye terminator sequencing. Chi-square tests were performed to determine any significant differences in the genotype and allele frequencies between the cases and controls. Chi-square analysis showed no statistically significant difference (p > .05) for genotype frequencies between cases and controls for rs2850328 (χ2 = 1.2, p = .5476) or rs2395 (χ2 = .3, p = .8608). Similarly, no statistical difference was observed for allele frequencies for rs2850328 (χ2 = .68, p = .4108) or rs2395 (χ2 = .02, p = .893). Even though an association of the polymorphisms rs2850328 and rs2395 and breast cancer was not detected in our case-control study population, other variants within the PPP3CA and MARK4 genes may still be associated with breast cancer, as both genes are implicated with processes involved in the disease as well as their mutual partaking in the Wnt signaling pathway.

Single nucleotide polymorphism in hsa-mir-196a-2 and breast cancer risk : a case control study

microRNAs are small, non-coding RNAs that influence gene expression on a post-transcriptional level. They participate in diverse biological pathways and may act as either tumor suppressor genes or oncogenes. As they may have an effect on thousands of target mRNAs, single-nucleotide polymorphisms in microRNA genes might have major functional consequences, because the microRNA's properties and/or maturation may change. miR-196a has been reported to be aberrantly expressed in breast cancer tissue. Additionally, the SNP rs11614913 in hsa-mir-196a-2 has been found to be associated with breast cancer risk in some studies although not in others. This study evaluated the association between rs11614913 and breast cancer risk in a Caucasian case-control cohort in Queensland, Australia. Results do not support an association of the tested hsa-mir-196a-2 polymorphism with breast cancer susceptibility in this cohort. As there is a discrepancy between our results and previous findings, it is important to assess the role of rs11614913 in breast cancer by further larger studies investigating different ethnic groups.