Disruptive Threads and Renegade Yarns: Domestic Textile Making in Selected Women's Writing 1811-1925

Images of domestic textiles (items made at home for consumption within the household) and textile making form an important subtext to women’s writing, both during and after industrialization. Through a close reading of five novels from the period 1811-1925, this thesis will assert that a detailed understanding of textile work and its place in women’s daily lives is critical to a deeper understanding of social, sexual and political issues from a woman’s perspective. The first chapter will explore the history of the relationship between women and domestic textile making, and the changes wrought to the latter by the Industrial Revolution. The second chapter will examine the role of embroidery in the construction of “appropriate” feminine gentility in Jane Austen’s Mansfield Park (1814). The third chapter, on Elizabeth Gaskell’s Cranford (1853), will explore how the older female body became a repository for anxieties about class mobility and female power at the beginning of the Victorian era. The fourth chapter will compare Sara Jeannette Duncan’s A Social Departure (1890) and Kate Chopin’s The Awakening (1899) to consider how later Victorian women both internalized and refuted public narratives of domestic textile making in a quest for “self-ownership.” The last chapter, on Martha Ostenso’s Wild Geese (1925), examines the corrosive, yet ultimately redemptive, relationships of a family of women trapped by abuse and degradation. For all five authors, images of textiles and textile making allow them to speak to issues that were usually only discussed within a community of women: sexuality, desire, aging, marriage, and motherhood. In all five works, textile making “talks back” to the power structures that marginalize women, and lends insight into the material and emotional circumstances of women’s lives.

Endverbindungen für dynamisch belastete textile Zugmittel

Hochfeste Faserseile sind aufgrund ihrer hohen spezifischen Festigkeit prädestiniert für dynamische Anwendungen in der Fördertechnik. Der Kenntnisstand über die Zeitfestigkeit zugehöriger Endverbindungen zur Krafteinleitung ist jedoch unzureichend. Gegenstand der vorgelegten Arbeit ist die Entwicklung einer für die Anwendung von hochfesten Faserseilen geeigneten Prüfvorschrift sowie die vergleichende Untersuchung bekannter Endverbindungen für hochfeste Faserseile im Zugschwellversuch.

Exploring Perceptual Matters: A Textile-Based Approach

This research takes a practice-based approach to exploring perceptual matters that often go unnoticed in the context of everyday lived experience. My approach focuses on the experiential possibilities of knowledge emerging through artistic enquiry, and uses a variety of modes (like textiles, sound, physical computing, programming, video and text) to be conducted and communicated. It examines scholarship in line with the ecological theory of perception, and is particularly informed by neurobiological research on sensory integration as well as by cultural theories that examine the role of sensory appreciation in perception. Different processes contributing to our perceptual experience are examined through the development of a touch-sensitive, sound-generating rug and its application in an experimental context. Participants’ interaction with the rug and its sonic output allows an insight into how they make sense of multisensory information via observation of how they physically respond to it. In creating possibilities for observing the two ends of the perceptual process (sensory input and behavioural output), the rug provides a platform for the study of what is intangible to the observer (perceptual activity) through what can actually be observed (physical activity). My analysis focuses on video recordings of the experimental process and data reports obtained from the software used for the sound generating performance of the rug. Its findings suggest that attentional focus, active exploration, and past experience actively affect the ability to integrate multisensory information and are crucial parameters for the formation of a meaningful percept upon which to act. Although relational to the set experimental conditions and the specificities of the experimental group, these findings are in resonance with current cross-disciplinary discourse on perception, and indicate that art research can be incorporated into the wider arena of neurophysiological and behavioural research to expand its span of resources and methods.

Bioremediation of piggery effluents using Scenedesmus Obliquus microalga [Resumo]

Effluents from intensive pig farms present high nutrient concentration, mainly ammonium, contributing to water eutrophication and pollution. Microalgae ability to deplete inorganic nutrients makes them an efficient effluent bioremediation tool. Scenedesmus obliquus was grown in piggery effluent (without any pretreatment) diluted with tap water at 5%v/v (187±25mg/L N-NH4+) and compared with growth in synthetic Bristol media. A 21-days trial was performed in 1L bubble-column reactors illuminated by fluorescent and LED lamps(3klux). Microalgae growth was monitored through OD540nm, dry weight and Chlorophyll content and also by flow cytometry in terms of autofluorescence read in FL3 channel (>670 nm), cell size (FSC), internal complexity (SSC) and cell membrane integrity (PI). S. obliquus cells have grown slower in pig effluent (mmax=0.13-19d-1) than in Bristol media (mmax=0.46-0.50d-1) although after 15 days the biomass productivity observed for the pig waste cultivation, operated under LED (0.127gL-1d-1) was similar to those attained for the Bristol media after 8 and 12 days (0.130 and 0.129 gL-1d-1 using Fluorescent and LED lights, respectively). The Chlorophyll content was correlated to FL3 autofluorescence, with R2>0.97 for Bristol and R2>0.92 for pig waste cultures. Regarding cell size and complexity, Bristol cultures did not show significant differences along time, while cells grown on pig waste increased, attaining FSC and SSC values similar to those observed for Bristol cultures. However, pig waste led to higher percentage of cells with permeabilised membrane (up to 18%) than Bristol cultures (7%). For pig waste experiments, ammonium removal rates were 95% with final values within legal limits. S. obliquus cultivations proved to be an efficient system for direct piggery effluent bioremediation, attaining biomass productivities similar to those obtained in synthetic media. Using LED lighting enables to reduce the energy consumption while maintaining microalgae growth and bioremediation performance. Scale-up to an outdoor 150L photobioreactor is underway.

Avaliação ecotoxicológica de efluentes industriais utilizando Danio rerio Hamilton-Buchanan, 1822 (TELEOSTEI, CYPRINIDAE)

The industrial effluents are one of the main sources of water pollution. For an appropriate characterization and control of their discharges, the most efficient strategy is the integrated use of chemical, physical and ecotoxicological analyses. The aims of this study were to asses the efficiency of the treatment plant of a textile industry performing acute toxicity tests and physical-chemical analyses of the effluents before and after the treatment, besides evaluate the toxicity of the effluents of the Treatment System of Liquids Effluents (Sistema de Tratamento de Efluentes Líquidos - SITEL) of Distrito Industrial de Natal (DIN) and some of their physical-chemical variables. The species used in the ecotoxicological tests was the fish Danio rerio. The results showed that the treatment plant reduced significantly (around 50%) the toxicity of the raw textile effluent in only three of the seven tests but, in general, it promoted the reduction of the physical-chemical parameters analyzed. The toxicity and the physical-chemical factors of the effluents of SITEL of DIN varied among the tests and show the importance of monitoring their discharges in the Potengi river, one of the most important rivers of the Rio Grande do Norte state

Bioremediation of phosphates in seawater: approach for recirculating marine aquaculture effluents

Marine Recirculating Aquaculture Systems (RAS) produce great volume of wastewater, which may be reutilized/recirculated or reutilized after undergoing different treatment/remediation methods, or partly discharged into neighbour water-bodies (DWW). Phosphates, in particular, are usually accumulated at high concentrations in DWW, both because its monitoring is not compulsory for fish production since it is not a limiting parameter, and also because there is no specific treatment so far developed to remove them, especially in what concerns saltwater effluents. As such, this work addresses two main scientific questions. One of them regards the understanding of the actual (bio)remediation methods applied to effluents produced in marine RAS, by identifying their advantages, drawbacks and gaps concerning their exploitation in saltwater effluents. The second one is the development of a new, innovative and efficient method for the treatment of saltwater effluents that potentially fulfil the gaps identified in the conventional treatments. Thereby, the aims of this thesis are: (i) to revise the conventional treatments targeting major contaminants in marine RAS effluents, with a particular focus on the bioremediation approaches already conducted for phosphates; (ii) to characterize and evaluate the potential of oyster-shell waste collected in Ria de Aveiro as a bioremediation agent of phosphates spiked into artificial saltwater, over different influencing factors (e.g., oyster-shell pre-treatment through calcination, particle size, adsorbent concentration). Despite the use of oyster-shells for phosphorous (P) removal has already been applied in freshwater, its biosorptive potential for P in saltwater was never evaluated, as far as I am aware. The results herein generated showed that NOS is mainly composed by carbonates, which are almost completely converted into lime (CaO) after calcination (COS). Such pre-treatment allowed obtaining a more reactive material for P removal, since higher removal percentages and adsorption capacity was observed for COS. Smaller particle size fractions for both NOS and COS samples also increased P removal. Kinetic models showed that NOS adsorption followed, simultaneously, Elovich and Intraparticle Difusion kinetic models, suggesting that P removal is both a diffusional and chemically rate-controlled process. The percentage of P removal by COS was not controlled by Intraparticle Diffusion and the Elovich model was the kinetic model that best fitted phosphate removal. This work demonstrated that waste oyster-shells, either NOS or COS, could be used as an effective biosorbent for P removal from seawater. Thereby, this biomaterial can sustain a cost-effective and eco-friendly bioremediation strategy with potential application in marine RAS.

Patrimoine textile malgache: cas du lambahoany tissé par la cotona d' antsirabe

Le lambahoany est un pagne tissé par une société textile malgache telle que la Cotona d’ Antsirabe. D’ailleurs, il enveloppe le peuple malgache depuis son existence, les hommes comme les femmes, puis les vivants comme les morts. C’est ainsi que le lambahoany occupe une importante place dans la communauté malgache, non seulement comme un panneau de transmission des messages spécifiques mais également pour son rôle au système éducatif social au même titre que les arts virtuels développés aux écoles des arts. Ensuite, il est aussi nécessaire pour sensibiliser des personnes à travers d’un sujet donné. C’est en ce sens qu’il n’est plus un simple pagne mais il s’agit d’un objet patrimonial qui permet d’identifier les malgaches. Alors, leur préservation et leur valorisation se confirme primordial. D’où, la valorisation du lambahoany et sa pérennisation pour les générations futures constituent les principaux objectifs de cette étude; ABSTRACT: The Lambahoany is woven loin cloth by Malagasy textile companies like Cotona Antsirabe. Moreover, it wraps the Malagasy people since its existence, men and women, and the living and the dead. Thus the Lambahoany occupies an important place in the Malagasy community, not only as a sign of transmission of specific messages but also for its role in social education system as well as virtual arts developed schools of the arts. Then it is also necessary to educate people through a given topic. It is in this sense that it is no longer a simple loincloth, but it is a heritage object that identifies the Malagasy. So, their preservation and enhancement confirms paramount. Hence, the enhancement of Lambahoany and its sustainability for future generations are the main objectives of this study.

Notes in regard to some textile plants of Brazil, at the International exhibition in Philadelphia in 1876,

Mode of access: Internet.

Obtenção de filtro cerâmico a partir da diatomita e casca de arroz carbonizada visando tratamento de efluente têxtil

The effluents released by the textile industry have high concentrations of alkali, carbohydrates, proteins, in addition to colors containing heavy metals. Therefore, a filter was prepared aiming primarily to the removal of color. In order to prepare this filter, rice hulls and diatomite were used, which have in their structure, basically amorphous hydrated silica. The silica exists in three crystalline forms: quartz, tridymite and cristobalite. In accordance with the above considerations, this study was divided into two stages; the first corresponds to the preparation of the filter and the second to carry out the tests in the effluent/filter in order to verify the efficiency of the color removal. First, the raw material was subjected to a chemical analysis and XRD, and then the diatomite was mixed, via humid, with a planetarium windmill with 20 %, 40 %, 60 % and 80 % of rice husk ash. To the mixture, 5 % carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) was added as a binder at room temperature. The samples were uniaxially compacted into metallic matrix of 0.3 x 0.1 cm² of area at a pressure of 167 MPa by means of hydraulic press and then sintered at temperatures of 1,000 °C, 1,200 °C and 1,400 °C for 1 h and submitted to granulometry test using laser, linear retraction, water absorption, apparent porosity and resistance to bending, DTA, TMA and XRD. To examine the pore structure of the samples scanning electron microscope (SEM) was used. Also tests were carried out in a mercury porosimeter to verify the average size of the pores and real density of the samples. In the second stage, samples of the effluent were collected from a local industry, whose name will be preserved, located in Igapó, in the State of Rio Grande do Norte - RN. The effluent was first pretreated before filtration and then subjected to a treatment of flotation. The effluent was then characterized before and after filtration, with parameters of color, turbidity, suspended solids, pH, chemical and biochemical oxygen demand (COD and BOD). Thus, through the XRD analysis the formation of cristobalite α in all samples was observed. The best average size of pore was found to be 1.75 μm with 61.04 % apparent porosity, thus obtaining an average 97.9 % color removal and 99.8 % removal of suspended solid

Desenvolvimento de membranas porosas de alumina para fins de tratamento de efluente industrial têxtil

Textile production has been considered as an activity of high environmental impact due to the generation of large volumes of waste water with high load of organic compounds and strongly colored effluents, toxic and difficult biodegradability. This thesis deals with obtaining porous alumina ceramic membranes for filtration of textile effluent in the removal of contaminants, mainly color and turbidity. Two types of alumina with different particle sizes as a basis for the preparation of formulation for mass production of ceramic samples and membranes. The technological properties of the samples were evaluated after using sintering conditions: 1,350ºC-2H, 1,450ºC-30M, 1,450ºC-2H, 1,475ºC-30M and 1,475ºC-2H. The sintered samples were characterized by XRD, XRF, AG, TG, DSC, DL, AA, MEA, RL, MRF-3P, SEM and Intrusion Porosimetry by Mercury. After the characterization, a standard membrane was selected with their respective sintering condition for the filterability tests. The effluent was provided by a local Textile Industry and characterized at the entry and exit of the treatment plant. A statistical analysis was used to study the effluent using the following parameters: pH, temperature, EC, SS, SD, oil and grease, turbidity, COD, DO, total phosphorus, chlorides, phenols, metals and fecal coliform. The filtered effluent was evaluated by using the same parameters. These results demonstrate that the feasibility of the use of porous alumina ceramic membranes for removing contaminants from textile effluent with improved average pore size of 0.4 micrometre (distribution range varying from 0,025 to 2.0 micrometre), with total porosity of 29.66%, and average percentages of color removal efficiency of 89.02%, 92.49% of SS, turbidity of 94.55%, metals 2.70% (manganese) to 71.52% (iron) according to each metal and COD removal of 72.80%

Characterization and evaluation of the impact of feed management on the effluents of Nile tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) culture

O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar o efeito da utilização de diferentes manejos alimentares: alimento natural, ração peletizada, extrusada ou farelada, sobre a qualidade da água dos efluentes gerados em uma criação de tilápia do Nilo (Oreochromis niloticus). O experimento foi desenvolvido durante 19 semanas em doze viveiros de 300 m², com renovação contínua de água, povoados com juvenis machos de tilápia do Nilo na densidade de 1,7 peixes m-2. As rações isoproteícas (30% de proteína bruta) e isoenergéticas (3.000kcal de energia digestível) foram fornecidas duas vezes ao dia. Quanto ao tratamento alimento natural, foi utilizado esterco de galinha poedeira. Semanalmente, foram aferidos na água de abastecimento e nos efluentes, temperatura, oxigênio dissolvido, pH, fósforo total, nitrogênio total, clorofila a e material em suspensão. de maneira geral, houve piora na qualidade da água dos efluentes de todos os tratamentos estudados, em comparação a água de abastecimento, evidenciando o impacto ambiental desta atividade produtiva, podendo levar a eutrofização dos corpos d'água receptores.

Avaliação ecotoxicológica de efluentes industriais utilizando Danio rerio Hamilton-Buchanan, 1822 (TELEOSTEI, CYPRINIDAE)

The industrial effluents are one of the main sources of water pollution. For an appropriate characterization and control of their discharges, the most efficient strategy is the integrated use of chemical, physical and ecotoxicological analyses. The aims of this study were to asses the efficiency of the treatment plant of a textile industry performing acute toxicity tests and physical-chemical analyses of the effluents before and after the treatment, besides evaluate the toxicity of the effluents of the Treatment System of Liquids Effluents (Sistema de Tratamento de Efluentes Líquidos - SITEL) of Distrito Industrial de Natal (DIN) and some of their physical-chemical variables. The species used in the ecotoxicological tests was the fish Danio rerio. The results showed that the treatment plant reduced significantly (around 50%) the toxicity of the raw textile effluent in only three of the seven tests but, in general, it promoted the reduction of the physical-chemical parameters analyzed. The toxicity and the physical-chemical factors of the effluents of SITEL of DIN varied among the tests and show the importance of monitoring their discharges in the Potengi river, one of the most important rivers of the Rio Grande do Norte state

Anaerobic bio-digestion of concentrate obtained in the process of ultra filtration of effluents from tilapia processing unit

The objective of the present study was to evaluate the efficiency of the process of biodigestion of the protein concentrate resulting from the ultrafiltration of the effluent from a slaughterhouse freezer of Nile tilapia. Bench digesters were used with excrements and water (control) in comparison with a mixture of cattle manure and effluent from the stages of filleting and bleeding of tilapias. The effluent obtained in the continuous process (bleeding + filleting) was the one with highest accumulated population from the 37th day, as well as greatest daily production. Gases composition did not differ between the protein concentrates, but the gas obtained with the use of the effluent from the filleting stage presented highest methane gas average (78.05%) in comparison with those obtained in the bleeding stage (69.95%) and in the continuous process (70.02%) or by the control method (68.59%).