A Model Study of the Circulation in the Pearl River Estuary (PRE) and Its Adjacent Coastal Waters: 2. Sensitivity Experiments

The Princeton Ocean Model is used to study the circulation in the Pear River Estuary (PRE) and the adjacent coastal waters in the winter and summer seasons. Wong et al. [2003] compares the simulation results with the in situ measurements collected during the Pearl River Estuary Pollution Project (PREPP). In this paper, sensitivity experiments are carried out to examine the plume and the associated frontal dynamics in response to seasonal discharges and monsoon winds. During the winter, convergence between the seaward spreading plume water and the saline coastal water sets up a salinity front that aligns from the northeast to the southwest inside the PRE. During the summer the plume water fills the PRE at the surface and spreads eastward in the coastal waters in response to the prevailing southwesterly monsoon. The overall alignment of the plume is from the northwest to the southeast. The subsurface front is similar to that in the winter and summer except that the summer front is closer to the mouth and the winter front closer to the head of the estuary. Inside the PRE, bottom flows are always toward the head of the estuary, attributed to the density gradient associated with the plume front. In contrast, bottom flows in the shelf change from offshore in winter to onshore in summer, reflecting respectively the wintertime downwelling and summertime upwelling. Wind also plays an essential role in controlling the plume at the surface. An easterly wind drives the plume westward regardless winter or summer. The eastward spreading of the plume during the summer can be attributed to the southerly component of the wind. On the other hand, the surface area of the plume is positively proportional to the amount of discharge.

Seasonal cycles of monthly means of ground truth wind speed of METAR station GVAC and of area-averaged TMI wind speed at 37 GHz for the Cape Verde Island Sal

In the present paper ground truth and remotely sensed datasets were used for the investigation and quantification of the impact of Saharan dust on microwave propagation, the verification of theoretical results, and the validation of wind speeds determined by satellite microwave sensors. The influence of atmospheric dust was verified in two different study areas by investigations of single dust storms, wind statistics, wind speed scatter plots divided by the strength of Saharan dust storms, and wind speed differences in dependence of microwave frequencies and dust component of aerosol optical depth. An increase of the deviations of satellite wind speeds to ground truth wind speeds with higher microwave frequencies, with stronger dust storms, and with higher amount of coarse dust aerosols in coastal regions was obtained. Strong Saharan dust storms in coastal areas caused mean relative errors in the determination of wind speed by satellite microwave sensors of 16.3% at 10.7 GHz and of 20.3% at 37 GHz. The mean relative errors were smaller in the open sea area with 3.7% at 10.7 GHz and with 11.9% at 37 GHz.

Stomach content of ringed seals (Pusa hispida) obtained from the Northeast Greenland area

The diet of ringed seals (Pusa hispida) from coastal and offshore areas of Northeast Greenland was determined by identifying, to the lowest taxonomic limit possible, all hard-part contents from the gastrointestinal tract of 51 seals sampled (2002-2004) in spring (April to June, N = 35) and autumn (September to October, N = 16). The autumn diet was characterized by high numbers of Parathemisto libellula, and the spring diet was comprised primarily of polar cod (Boreogadus saida), with few invertebrates consumed. The coastal seal diet samples had a diverse fish prey composition (during both the spring and autumn), whereas the open water seals had eaten mostly crustaceans with P. libellula being most abundant. The sample sizes from the various locations and seasons were not large enough to explore age-class effects on diet in addition. Similar to earlier studies, this study suggests that the ringed seal is a generalist that exploits prey based on availability, with a few key species dominating the diet in an area at least on a seasonal basis.

Grain entrainment and transport rates of magnetic minerals of coastal sediment samples from the Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

Heavy (magnetic & non-magnetic) minerals are found concentrated by natural processes in many fluvial, estuarine, coastal and shelf environments with a potential to form economic placer deposits. Understanding the processes of heavy mineral transport and enrichment is prerequisite to interpret sediment magnetic properties in terms of hydro- and sediment dynamics. In this study, we combine rock magnetic and sedimentological laboratory measurements with numerical 3D discrete element models to investigate differential grain entrainment and transport rates of magnetic minerals in a range of coastal environments (riverbed, mouth, estuary, beach and near-shore). We analyzed grain-size distributions of representative bulk samples and their magnetic mineral fractions to relate grain-size modes to respective transport modes (traction, saltation, suspension). Rock magnetic measurements showed that distribution shapes, population sizes and grain-size offsets of bulk and magnetic mineral fractions hold information on the transport conditions and enrichment process in each depositional environment. A downstream decrease in magnetite grain size and an increase in magnetite concentration was observed from riverine source to marine sink environments. Lower flow velocities permit differential settling of light and heavy mineral grains creating heavy mineral enriched zones in estuary settings, while lighter minerals are washed out further into the sea. Numerical model results showed that higher heavy mineral concentrations in the bed increased the erosion rate and enhancing heavy mineral enrichment. In beach environments where sediments contained light and heavy mineral grains of equivalent grain sizes, the bed was found to be more stable with negligible amount of erosion compared to other bed compositions. Heavy mineral transport rates calculated for four different bed compositions showed that increasing heavy mineral content in the bed decreased the transport rate. There is always a lag in transport between light and heavy minerals which increases with higher heavy mineral concentration in all tested bed compositions. The results of laboratory experiments were validated by numerical models and showed good agreement. We demonstrate that the presented approach bears the potential to investigate heavy mineral enrichment processes in a wide range of sedimentary settings.

Maps of coastal and marine geomorphology between Albenga and Savona (NW Mediterranean Sea, Italy)

In this paper, we present a map describing the main geomorphological features of the coastal and marine area between the towns of Albenga and Savona (Ligurian Sea, NW Mediterranean) corresponding to a coastal stretch of ~40 km. To produce this map, we collated data from the literature, orthophotos, perspective photos, multibeam and side scan sonar data, and undertook direct surveys to ground truth data obtained using indirect techniques. We divided the information into nine thematic layers, including bathymetry, natural coastal types, geomorphological elements, seafloor coverage (both geological and biological), coastal and nearshore dynamics, human influence on coastal and marine environments, coastal occupation and protected areas.

Ecological investigations in the wadden area off Borkum, East Frisian Islands, Germany

Die Bodentiergemeinschaft des Wattenmeeres ist von Frühjahr bis Herbst eines jeden Jahres durch extrem hohe Dichten von Jungtieren charakterisiert. Die Kenntnisse über die Ansiedlung von fplanktischen Larven im Wattenmeer, sowie die Dynamik postlarvaler Stadien sind aufgrund der üblicherweise verwendeten, großen Siebmaschenweiten gering. Gerade aber diesen Altersstadien kommt möglicherweise eine besondere Stellung im Energiefluß des Wattenmeeres zu. An 5 Stationen (von NWL bis HWL, B1-B5) im Rückseitenwatt der ostfriesischen Insel Borkum wurden 1986 Ansiedlung, räumliche Verteilung, Wachstum, Mortalität und Produktion der Altersklasse 0 von Macoma balthica, Mya arenaria und Cerastoderma edule untersucht. Um die Ansiedlung der planktotrophen Larven dieser Arten zu beschreiben, wurden ihre Dichten in Plankton und Bodenproben miteinander verglichen. Die Untersuchungen zur Dynamik der benthischen Stadien wurden mit zwei in der Probenfläche und der Siebmaschenweite unterschiedlichen Probenserien durchgeführt. Die Drift postlarvaler Stadien wurde durch bodennahe Planktonfänge innerhalb des Eulitorals nachgewiesen. Parallel zu den Untersuchungen an der Endofauna wurden das Vorkommen und die Größe epibenthischer Räuber im Untersuchungsgebiet erfaßt. Die Hauptansiedlung von M. balthica- und M. arenaria-Larven erfolgte nahezu gleichzeitig Ende Mai/Anfang Juni. Die meisten Larven beider Arten gingen an der prielnächsten (tiefsten) Station (B1) zum Bodenleben über, gefolgt von der nächst höher gelegenen Station B2. Während frühe Bodenstadien von M. arenaria nicht im oberen Bereich des Watts (B3,B4) gefunden wurden, ist eine geringfügige Erstansiedlung von M. balthica in diesem Gebiet nicht auszuschließen. Ein die Ansiedlung limitierender Einfluß der relativ dichten Mya arenaria-Siedlung an den Stationen B1 und B2 sowie der Alttiere von M. balthica konnte nicht festgestellt werden. Die Ähnlichkeit des Ansiedlungsprozesses bei beiden Arten, die sich im Zahlenverhältnis Larvenangebot zu Anzahl der ersten Bodenstadien widerspiegelt, kann ein Hinweis auf eine überwiegend passive Ansiedlung der Larven am Boden sein. Der Ort der Hauptansiedlung von C. edule wurde durch den Transekt nicht erfaßt. Die Station B2 war zwar durch ein Herzmuschelfeld charakterisiert, dieses war aber nach zwei Eiswintern nahezu vollständig eliminiert. Der Abundanz der planktischen Larven zufolge war der Hauptansiedlungszeitraum ebenfalls Ende Mai/Anfang Juni. Zu dieser Zeit wurden nur vereinzelt frühe Bodenstadien an den Stationen B1 und B2 gefunden, keine an den Stationen B3 und B4. Während die frühen postlarvalen Stadien von M. arenaria überwiegend am Ort der Ansiedlung blieben, verbreiteten sich die von M. balthica bis in den oberen Bereich des Untersuchungsgebietes (B3-B5). Analog zu der Besiedlung dieser Gebiete durch postlarvale M. balthica wurde die im Verlauf des Untersuchungsjahres stattfindende Kolonisierung der Station B1 durch C. edule ebenfalls postlarvalem Transport zugeschrieben. Demzufolge spielt bei beiden Muschelarten postlarvaler Transport eine wichtige Rolle bei der Besiedlung von Habitaten. Planktonfänge innerhalb der bodennahen Wasserschicht bestätigten, daß im Untersuchungsgebiet M. balthica die am stärksten verdriftende Muschelart war, gefolgt von C. edule. Mortalität, Wachstum, mittlere Biomasse, Produktion und P/B-Verhältnis wurden für M. balthica an den Stationen B1, B3 und B4 sowie für M. arenaria an der Station B1 bestimmt. Wachstum und damit auch Produktion beider Arten erwiesen sich hier - wie an den höher gelegen Stationen (nur M. balthica) - als durch größenselektiven Feinddruck beeinflußt. Der Effekt postlarvalen Transports auf Wachstum wird diskutiert. Übergreifend über die auf Artebene diskutierten Ergebnisse wird die Bedeutung der Dispersion postlarvaler Stadien und die Wirkung epibenthischen Feinddrucks im Wattenmeer erörtert. Der Vergleich postlarvalen Transportes mit der Dispersion planktischer Larvenstadien, der Dispersion von Meiofauna und der Mobilität adulter Stadien der Makrofauna verdeutlicht, daß es sich hierbei um eine Strategie handeln kann, innerhalb eines unvorhersagbaren Biotops freiwerdende Ressourcen zu nutzen und dadurch Konkurrenz zu vermeiden. Es wird die Hypothese aufgestellt, daß Initialansiedlung und Immigration einerseits sowie Feinddruck und Emigration andererseits einen Regelkreis darstellen, der in verschiedenen Teilbereichen des Watts mit unterschiedlicher Geschwindigkeit abläuft.

DISPRO datasets for validation of coastal hydrodynamic models

Appropriate field data are required to check the reliability of hydrodynamic models simulating the dispersion of soluble substances in the marine environment. This study deals with the collection of physical measurements and soluble tracer data intended specifically for this kind of validation. The intensity of currents as well as the complexity of topography and tides around the Cap de La Hague in the center of the English Channel makes it one of the most difficult areas to represent in terms of hydrodynamics and dispersion. Controlled releases of tritium - in the form of HTO - are carried out in this area by the AREVA-NC plant, providing an excellent soluble tracer. A total of 14 493 measurements were acquired to track dispersion in the hours and days following a release. These data, supplementing previously gathered data and physical measurements (bathymetry, water-surface levels, Eulerian and Lagrangian current studies) allow us to test dispersion models from the hour following release to periods of several years which are not accessible with dye experiments. The dispersion characteristics are described and methods are proposed for comparing models against measurements. An application is proposed for a 2 dimensions high-resolution numerical model. It shows how an extensive dataset can be used to build, calibrate and validate several aspects of the model in a highly dynamic and macrotidal area: tidal cycle timing, tidal amplitude, fixed-point current data, hodographs. This study presents results concerning the model's ability to reproduce residual Lagrangian currents, along with a comparison between simulation and high-frequency measurements of tracer dispersion. Physical and tracer data are available from the SISMER database of IFREMER (www.ifremer.fr/sismer/catal). This tool for validation of models in macro-tidal seas is intended to be an open and evolving resource, which could provide a benchmark for dispersion model validation.

Bedform measurements from the San Francisco Bay Coastal System

The morphology of ~45,000 bedforms from 13 multibeam bathymetry surveys was used as a proxy for identifying net bedload sediment transport directions and pathways throughout the San Francisco Bay estuary and adjacent outer coast. The spatially-averaged shape asymmetry of the bedforms reveals distinct pathways of ebb and flood transport. Additionally, the region-wide, ebb-oriented asymmetry of 5% suggests net seaward-directed transport within the estuarine-coastal system, with significant seaward asymmetry at the mouth of San Francisco Bay (11%), through the northern reaches of the Bay (7-8%), and among the largest bedforms (21% for lambda > 50 m). This general indication for the net transport of sand to the open coast strongly suggests that anthropogenic removal of sediment from the estuary, particularly along clearly defined seaward transport pathways, will limit the supply of sand to chronically eroding, open-coast beaches. The bedform asymmetry measurements significantly agree (up to ~ 76%) with modeled annual residual transport directions derived from a hydrodynamically-calibrated numerical model, and the orientation of adjacent, flow-sculpted seafloor features such as mega-flute structures, providing a comprehensive validation of the technique. The methods described in this paper to determine well-defined, cross-validated sediment transport pathways can be applied to estuarine-coastal systems globally where bedforms are present. The results can inform and improve regional sediment management practices to more efficiently utilize often limited sediment resources and mitigate current and future sediment supply-related impacts.

Maps and acoustic profiles of free gas distribution, Western Baltic Sea and Kattgat-Skagerrak area

A shallow gas depth-contour map covering the Skagerrak-western Baltic Sea region has been constructed using a relatively dense grid of existing shallow seismic lines. The digital map is stored as an ESRI shape file in order to facilitate comparison with other data from the region. Free gas usually occurs in mud and sandy mud but is observed only when sediment thickness exceeds a certain threshold value, depending on the water depth of the area in question. Gassy sediments exist at all water depths from approx. 20 m in the coastal waters of the Kattegat to 360 m in the Skagerrak. In spite of the large difference in water depths, the depth of free gas below seabed varies only little within the region, indicating a relatively fast movement of methane in the gas phase towards the seabed compared to the rate of diffusion of dissolved methane. Seeps of old microbial methane occur in the northern Kattegat where a relatively thin cover of sandy sediments exists over shallow, glacially deformed Pleistocene marine sediments. Previous estimates of total methane escape from the area may be correct but the extrapolation of local methane seepage rate data to much larger areas on the continental shelf is probably not justified. Preliminary data on porewater chemistry were compared with the free gas depth contours in the Aarhus Bay area, which occasionally suffers from oxygen deficiency, in order to examine if acoustic gas mapping may be used for monitoring the condition of the bay.

Distribution and stable isotopic compositions of hydrogen and carbon of plant-wax derived n-C29 and -C31 alkanes in terrestrial, coastal and offshore surface sediments

Reconstructing terrestrial water budgets is of prime importance for understanding past climate and environment. To shed more light on how plant-wax derived n-alkanes may be used for this purpose we investigated the distribution and stable isotopic compositions of hydrogen (dD) and carbon (d13C) of plant-wax derived n-C29 and -C31 alkanes in terrestrial, coastal and offshore surface sediments in relation to hydrology along a NW-SE transect east of the Italian Apennines from the Po River to the Eastern Gulf of Taranto. The plant wax average chain length increases southward and may relate to increasing temperature and/or aridity. The plant wax dD of the terrestrial and coastal samples also increases southward and mainly reflects changes in the dD of precipitation. The d13C of plant waxes is primarily interpreted in terms of C3 vegetation changes rather than varying contributions by C4 plants. The plant wax d13C-dD composition of the Po River and Apennine rivers differs considerably from that in southern Italy, and suggests a mainly southern source for plant waxes in marine sediments of the Gulf of Taranto. This calibration provides a basis for the reconstruction of past changes in the Italian water balance and n-alkane source areas.

Near-coastal circum-Antarctic iceberg size distributions determined from Synthetic Aperture Radar images

The Radarsat-1 Antarctic Mapping Project (RAMP) compiled a mosaic of Antarctica and the adjacent ocean zone from more than 3000 high-resolution Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) images acquired in September and October 1997. The mosaic with a pixel size of 100 m was used to determine iceberg size distributions around Antarctica, combining an automated detection with a visual control of all icebergs larger than 5 km**2 and correction of recognized false detections. For icebergs below 5 km**2 in size, the numbers of false detections and accuracies of size retrievals were analyzed for three test sites. Nearly 7000 icebergs with horizontal areas between 0.3 and 4717.7 km**2 were identified in a near-coastal zone of varying width between 20 and 300 km. The spatial distributions of icebergs around Antarctica were calculated for zonal segments of 20° angular width and related to the types of the calving fronts in the respective section. Results reveal that regional variations of the size distributions cannot be neglected. The highest ice mass accumulations were found at positions of giant icebergs (> 18.5 km) but also in front of ice shelves from which larger numbers of smaller icebergs calve almost continuously. Although the coastal oceanic zone covered by RAMP is too narrow compared to the spatial coverage needed for oceanographic research, this study nevertheless demonstrates the usefulness of SAR images for iceberg research and the need for repeated data acquisitions extending ocean-wards over distances of 500 km and more from the coast to monitor iceberg melt and disintegration and the related freshwater input into the ocean.

Area-averaged mean seasonal cycles of chlorophyll-a concentration, sea surface temperature, alongshore wind stress, westward wind speed and dust component of the aerosol optical depth at 550 nm

Nutrient supply in the area off Northwest Africa is mainly regulated by two processes, coastal upwelling and deposition of Saharan dust. In the present study, both processes were analyzed and evaluated by different methods, including cross-correlation, multiple correlation, and event statistics, using remotely sensed proxies of the period from 2000 to 2008 to investigate their influence on the marine environment. The remotely sensed chlorophyll-a concentration was used as a proxy for the phytoplankton biomass stimulated by nutrient supply into the euphotic zone from deeper water layers and from the atmosphere. Satellite-derived alongshore wind stress and sea-surface temperature were applied as proxies for the strength and reflection of coastal upwelling processes. The westward wind and the dust component of the aerosol optical depth describe the transport direction of atmospheric dust and the atmospheric dust column load. Alongshore wind stress and induced upwelling processes were most significantly responsible for the surface chlorophyll-a variability, accounting for about 24% of the total variance, mainly in the winter and spring due to the strong north-easterly trade winds. The remotely sensed proxies allowed determination of time lags between biological response and its forcing processes. A delay of up to 16 days in the surface chlorophyll-a concentration due to the alongshore wind stress was determined in the northern winter and spring. Although input of atmospheric iron by dust storms can stimulate new phytoplankton production in the study area, only 5% of the surface chlorophyll-a variability could be ascribed to the dust component in the aerosol optical depth. All strong desert storms were identified by an event statistics in the time period from 2000 to 2008. The 57 strong storms were studied in relation to their biological response. Six events were clearly detected in which an increase of chlorophyll-a was caused by Saharan dust input and not by coastal upwelling processes. Time lags of <8 days, 8 days, and 16 days were determined. An increase in surface chlorophyll-a concentration of up to 2.4 mg m**3 after dust storms in which the dust component of the aerosol optical depth was up to 0.9 was observed.