Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

Hydro-Physical Characterization of Media Used in Agricultural Systems to Develop the Best Management Practices for operation of an Environmentally Sustainable Agricultural Enterprise

Florida is the second leading horticulture state in the United States with a total annual industry sale of over $12 Billion. Due to its competitive nature, agricultural plant production represents an extremely intensive practice with large amounts of water and fertilizer usage. Agrochemical and water management are vital for efficient functioning of any agricultural enterprise, and the subsequent nutrient loading from such agricultural practices has been a concern for environmentalists. A thorough understanding of the agrochemical and the soil amendments used in these agricultural systems is of special interest as contamination of soils can cause surface and groundwater pollution leading to ecosystem toxicity. The presence of fragile ecosystems such as the Everglades, Biscayne Bay and Big Cypress near enterprises that use such agricultural systems makes the whole issue even more imminent. Although significant research has been conducted with soils and soil mix, there is no acceptable method for determining the hydraulic properties of mixtures that have been subjected to organic and inorganic soil amendments. Hydro-physical characterization of such mixtures can facilitate the understanding of water retention and permeation characteristics of the commonly used mix which can further allow modeling of soil water interactions. The objective of this study was to characterize some of the locally and commercially available plant growth mixtures for their hydro-physical properties and develop mathematical models to correlate these acquired basic properties to the hydraulic conductivity of the mixture. The objective was also to model the response patterns of soil amendments present in those mixtures to different water and fertilizer use scenarios using the characterized hydro-physical properties with the help of Everglades-Agro-Hydrology Model. The presence of organic amendments helps the mixtures retain more water while the inorganic amendments tend to adsorb more nutrients due to their high surface area. The results of these types of characterization can provide a scientific basis for understanding the non-point source water pollution from horticulture production systems and assist in the development of the best management practices for the operation of environmentally sustainable agricultural enterprise

Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

Engineering design of an integrated sustainable process system for cassava biobased materials

Cassava contributes significantly to biobased material development. Conventional approaches for its bio-derivative-production and application cause significant wastes, tailored material development challenges, with negative environmental impact and application limitations. Transforming cassava into sustainable value-added resources requires redesigning new approaches. Harnessing unexplored material source, and downstream process innovations can mitigate challenges. The ultimate goal proposed an integrated sustainable process system for cassava biomaterial development and potential application. An improved simultaneous release recovery cyanogenesis (SRRC) methodology, incorporating intact bitter cassava, was developed and standardized. Films were formulated, characterised, their mass transport behaviour, simulating real-distribution-chain conditions quantified, and optimised for desirable properties. Integrated process design system, for sustainable waste-elimination and biomaterial development, was developed. Films and bioderivatives for desired MAP, fast-delivery nutraceutical excipients and antifungal active coating applications were demonstrated. SRRC-processed intact bitter cassava produced significantly higher yield safe bio-derivatives than peeled, guaranteeing 16% waste-elimination. Process standardization transformed entire root into higher yield and clarified colour bio-derivatives and efficient material balance at optimal global desirability. Solvent mass through temperature-humidity-stressed films induced structural changes, and influenced water vapour and oxygen permeability. Sevenunit integrated-process design led to cost-effectiveness, energy-efficient and green cassava processing and biomaterials with zero-environment footprints. Desirable optimised bio-derivatives and films demonstrated application in desirable in-package O2/CO2, mouldgrowth inhibition, faster tablet excipient nutraceutical dissolutions and releases, and thymolencapsulated smooth antifungal coatings. Novel material resources, non-root peeling, zero-waste-elimination, and desirable standardised methodology present promising process integration tools for sustainable cassava biobased system development. Emerging design outcomes have potential applications to mitigate cyanide challenges and provide bio-derivative development pathways. Process system leads to zero-waste, with potential to reshape current style one-way processes into circular designs modelled on nature's effective approaches. Indigenous cassava components as natural material reinforcements, and SRRC processing approach has initiated a process with potential wider deployment in broad product research development. This research contributes to scientific knowledge in material science and engineering process design.

Sustainable initiatives focused on social responsibility and regional development: a study of the leader of the petrochemical industry

The present work will investigate the issue of environmental responsibility actions in the ABC Paulista region, of a leading company in the petrochemical sector. In this context, the problem has been to see how the leading company in the domestic petrochemical industry conducts itself relative to the concept of sustainability and what the consequences of these initiatives in the ABC Paulista are. Thus, the objectives are to identify these consequences and practices with regard to regional development in areas where the leader of the national petrochemical company has significant performance, with highlights on economic, social and environmental impacts. The present investigation is justified by the fact that the company is among the world leaders in the production of biopolymers. The methodology used was qualitative descriptive because this methodological procedure makes it possible to observe and analyze the facts relating to social responsibility initiatives undertaken by the company under study without manipulating them , in establishing correlations on perception of other stakeholders before the actions addressed in this research. Therefore, the results obtained indicate that environmental responsibility initiatives taken by the company satisfy the paradigm of Sustainability and Social Responsibility, in the promotion of regional development in its geographic area.

Multi-Scale Governance of Sustainable Natural Resource Use—Challenges and Opportunities for Monitoring and Institutional Development at the National and Global Level

In a globalized economy, the use of natural resources is determined by the demand of modern production and consumption systems, and by infrastructure development. Sustainable natural resource use will require good governance and management based on sound scientific information, data and indicators. There is a rich literature on natural resource management, yet the national and global scale and macro-economic policy making has been underrepresented. We provide an overview of the scholarly literature on multi-scale governance of natural resources, focusing on the information required by relevant actors from local to global scale. Global natural resource use is largely determined by national, regional, and local policies. We observe that in recent decades, the development of public policies of natural resource use has been fostered by an “inspiration cycle” between the research, policy and statistics community, fostering social learning. Effective natural resource policies require adequate monitoring tools, in particular indicators for the use of materials, energy, land, and water as well as waste and GHG emissions of national economies. We summarize the state-of-the-art of the application of accounting methods and data sources for national material flow accounts and indicators, including territorial and product-life-cycle based approaches. We show how accounts on natural resource use can inform the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and argue that information on natural resource use, and in particular footprint indicators, will be indispensable for a consistent implementation of the SDGs. We recognize that improving the knowledge base for global natural resource use will require further institutional development including at national and international levels, for which we outline options.

Debating food production at dinner time: Mainstream audiences are invited to debate the ethics of agricultural practices in Brazil

In the rural areas of Brazil, a farmer runs his agricultural empire with a fierce hand: he exploits his workers and the land to their limits. Lack of sustainable land management leads to the pollution of rivers, changes in rain patterns, and exhaustion of the soil.

Dynamical modeling of biogas production supported by an experimental anaerobic digestion process

This paper presents the development of a combined experimental and numerical approach to study the anaerobic digestion of both the wastes produced in a biorefinery using yeast for biodiesel production and the wastes generated in the preceding microbial biomass production. The experimental results show that it is possible to valorise through anaerobic digestion all the tested residues. In the implementation of the numerical model for anaerobic digestion, a procedure for the identification of its parameters needs to be developed. A hybrid search Genetic Algorithm was used, followed by a direct search method. In order to test the procedure for estimation of parameters, first noise-free data was considered and a critical analysis of the results obtain so far was undertaken. As a demonstration of its application, the procedure was applied to experimental data.

Creative Practices Around the Production of Cork

Cork, as a natural product provided by the bark of the cork oak tree, is an important staple of the Portuguese economy and important to Portuguese culture. It is a sustainable product with a positive ecological footprint, from harvesting to industrial production, with the advantage of creating a local economic model through regional labour activity and distribution. Within the balance between nature-human-economy to create a sustainable system, cork production in Portugal represents a human and social dimension. By focusing on that dimension and by creating an awareness of the cultural and social impact of the activity and by re-appraising the meaning of the material within the culture, the study reframes a consideration of the actual place of labour and production. The human, geophysical, historical, social, economic, ecological and cultural aspects of the place are observed as regards their relation to work or labour in that physical space. A pilot study is being developed in the village of Azaruja in the district of Évora, Portugal. In this small locality, cork is very important in terms of the relationships between the physical subsistence of their residents and the local natural resources, because it structures the place in its cultural, social and economical dimensions. This paper outlines the theoretical foundations, the process and the outcomes of the participatory ecodesign project titled Creative Practices Around the Production of Cork which was initiated by a Portuguese artist/design researcher and developed further through the collaboration with the other two authors, one a Portuguese visual artist/researcher and the other a Turkish fashion designer/theorist. The investigation focuses on questions that expand the notion of place for artists and designers, filtered through the lenses of manual labourers in order to understand their physical, social, cultural and economic relationship with the environment. To create the process of interaction with the place and the people, a creative collaborative dynamic is developed between the authors with their range of artistic sensibilities and the local population. To adopt a holistic notion of sustainability and cultural identity a process of investigation is designated to: (1) analyse, test and interpret - through the dissemination of life stories, visual representation of the place and the creation of cork objects - the importance of culture related to the labour activity of a local natural resource that determines and structures the region; (2) to give public recognition to those involved, taking into account their sense of belonging to the place and in order to show the value of their sustainable labour activities related to local natural resources; (3) to contribute to the knowledge of the place and to its dynamism through an aesthetic approach to labour activities. With reference to fields of knowledge such as anthropology, the social arts and sustainable design, a practice-based research is conducted with collaborative and participatory design methods to create an open model of interaction which involves local people in the realization of the project. Outcomes of this research will be presented in the paper as a survey analysis with theoretical conclusions.

Soil management systems for sustainable melon cropping in the Submedian of the São Francisco Valley.

Changes in soils management systems, including the application of green manure, are able to increase crop productivity. The aim of this study was to propose a soil management system with the use of green manure to improve the nutritional status and melon productivity in the submedian of the São Francisco Valley. The experiment was installed in Typic Plinthustalf and conducted in split plot. There were two soil tillage systems, tillage (T) and no tillage (NT), and three types of green manure (two vegetal cocktails: VC1- 75% legumes (L) + 25% non-legumes (NL); VC2- 25% L+ 75% NL and spontaneous vegetation (SV)). The experimental design was a randomised block with four replications. Fourteen species of legumes, grasses and oilseeds were used for the composition of the plant cocktails. We evaluated production of the dry shoot and root biomass and carbon and nutrient accumulation by green manures and melon plant. Data were subjected to analysis of variance and the treatment means were compared by Tukey´s test (P<0.05). Shoot biomass production and carbon and nutrient accumulation were higher in plant mixtures compared to spontaneous vegetation. The root system of the plant cocktails added larger quantities of biomass and nutrients to the soil to a depth of 0.60 m when compared to the spontaneous vegetation. The cultivation of plant cocktails with soil tillage, regardless of their composition, is a viable alternative for adding biomass and nutrients to the soil in melon crops in semi-arid conditions, providing productivity increases.

Agriculture and forest: A sustainable strategy in the Brazilian Amazon.

Large-scale agriculture is increasing in anthropogenically modified areas in the Amazon Basin. Crops such as soybean, maize, oil palm, and others are being introduced to supply the world demand for food and energy. However, the current challenge is to enhance the sustainability of these areas by increasing efficiency of production chains and to improve environmental services. The Amazon Basin has experienced a paradigm shift away from the traditional slash-and-burn agricultural practices, which offers decision makers the opportunity to make innovative interventions to enhance the productivity in previously degraded areas by using trees to ecological advantage. This study describes a successful experiment integrating the production of soybean and paricá (Glycine max L. and Schizolobium amazonicum) based on previous research that indicated potential topoclimatic zones for planting paricá in the Brazilian state of Pará. This paper shows that a no-tillage system reduces the effects of drought compared to conventional tillage still used by many farmers in the region. The integrated system was implemented during the 2014/2015 season in 234.6 ha in the high-potential zone in the municipality of Ulianópolis, Pará. Both soybean and paricá were planted simultaneously. Paricá was planted in 5 m x 2 m inter-tree spacing totaling 228x103 trees per hectare and soybean, in 4 m x 100 m spacing, distributed in nine rows with a 0.45 m inter-row distance, occupying 80% of the area. The harvested soybean production was 3.4 t ha-1, higher than other soybean monocultures in eastern Pará. Paricá benefited from soybean fertilization in the first year: It exhibited rapid development in height (3.26 m) and average diameter (3.85 cm). Trees and crop rotation over the following years is six years for forest species and one year for each crop. Our results confirm there are alternatives to the current production systems able to diminish negative impacts resulting from monoculture. In addition, the system provided environmental services such as reduced soil erosion and increased carbon stock by soil cover with no-tillage soybean cultivation. The soybean cover contributes to increased paricá thermal regulation and lower forestry costs. We concluded that innovative interventions are important to show local farmers that it is possible to adapt an agroforest system to large-scale production, thus changing the Amazon.

Effect of heat stress on milk production of goats from Alpine and Saanen breeds in Brazil.

The purpose of this bibliography review was to approach the thermal comfort rates on milk production of goats from Alpine and Saanen breeds in Brazil. The caloric stress caused by weather changes to which the animals are submitted, influence on the mechanisms of normal physiological processes of the body. Thus, the effect on the lactation process in goats can be mentioned, where it decreases the amount of water in the body with the consequent decrease in synthesis and milk ejection interfering in the production of hormone prolactin and growth hormone. The animal?s interaction with the environment must be considered when the aim in livestock farming is welfare, because the different responses of the animal to the peculiarities of each region are crucial for the success of the animal adaptation. So, the correct identification of the factors that influence the productive life of the animal, such as the stress caused by the seasonal fluctuations of the environment, allow production systems management, making it possible to make them sustainable and viable. The maintenance of these parameters in normal levels is very important, to the point of being used in the evaluation of climate adaptability of breeds to a certain environmental condition. In this way, the concerns about animal welfare and environmental comfort are due to the climatic variables and the behavioral, physiological and productive responses are prevailing when implementing the suitability of certain production systems.

Photocatalytic production of chemicals and hydrogen from biomass

In this work, with the aim to tackle several approaches towards sustainable chemistry, two reactions were studied: aerobic photo-oxidation of biomass derived 5-hydroxymethyl-2-furfural (HMF), and anaerobic photo-reforming of glycerol known as a by-product in biodiesel industry, towards production of chemicals and hydrogen. Solar-assisted reactions were performed by means of heterogeneous photocatalysis, in mild conditions such as atmospheric pressure, room temperature and water as a benign solvent. Titanium dioxide (lab-synthesized and commercial) was used as a photo-active catalyst, which surface was modified by introducing different metal (e.g. Au, Au-Cu, Pt) and metal oxide (e.g. NiO) nanoparticles. The prepared materials were characterized by XRD, DRS, BET, TEM, SEM, RAMAN and other techniques. The influence of the support, the size and type of the deposited metal and metal oxide nanoparticles on the photo-catalytic transformation of HMF and glycerol was evaluated. In the case of HMF, the influence of the base addition and the oxygen content on the reaction selectivity was also studied. The effect of the crystalline phase composition and morphology of TiO2 in the glycerol photo-reforming reaction was assessed as well. The surface of the synthesized TiO2 nano-powders was investigated by means of Surface Organometallic Chemistry (SOMC) approach. In particular, the surface was characterized by chemical titration and DRIFT techniques. Furthermore, the SOMC concept allowed preparing of well-dispersed Pt nanoparticles on the TiO2 surface. The photo-catalytic activity of this sample in the glycerol photo-reforming process was tested and compared to that of other Pt-containing catalysts prepared by conventional technics. In view of avoiding the agglomeration and sedimentation of suspended titania powders in water media, thick films of synthesized and commercial TiO2 were deposited on a conductive substrate using screen-printing technique. The prepared electrodes were characterized by profilometry, SEM, XRD, optical, electrochemical and photo-electrochemical methods.

Development and chemo-mechanical characterization of eco-compatible extenders containing REOB and recycled tyres’ rubber for the production of greener bituminous binders

The concepts of circular economy and sustainability are the basis of the present experimental research that seeks to reduce the environmental impact of traditional road construction materials. This study mainly focuses on the development and the chemo-mechanical characterization of bitumen extenders containing rubber (R) from end-of-life tyres (ELTs) and re-refined engine oil bottoms (REOBs) for the production of innovative and eco-friendly extended bitumens (i.e. bituminous binders containing 25%wt. of recycled products) and asphalt mixtures. In order to create more sustainable asphalt mixes, also recycled aggregates are used for partial replacement of virgin natural aggregates in the aggregate skeleton. The experimental program encompassed five successive steps: (i) the evaluation of physicochemical properties of R and REOB, (ii) the definition of the optimal extenders by the development of a new protocol and their characterizations, (iii) the realization and investigation of the chemo-rheological responses of the extended bitumens at different boundary conditions, (iv) the assessment of the effectiveness of analytical method to predict the rheological parameters of extended bitumens and, finally, (v) the analysis of the mechanical performances of the corresponding asphalt mixtures. A standard 50/70 penetration grade bitumen was chosen as a reference material and the main constituent of the innovative bituminous products. The results of this study underlined the importance of material characterization. The incorporation of R-REOB extenders strongly affects the chemo-rheological responses of the resulting extended bitumens and asphalt mixtures overall the boundary conditions. While the presence of R and the consequent formation of a polymer network improves the elasticity of the final products, especially at high test temperatures; the addition of REOB, softens the bituminous binders and asphalt mixes increasing their response at low test temperatures. Nonetheless, the use of recycled products increased the susceptibility of bituminous material under damaging conditions, which would need further investigations.

Applied biomaterials from sustainable sources

If we look back in time at the history of humanity, we can state that our generation is living an era of outstanding efficiency and progress because of globalization and global competition, even if this is resulting in the rapid depletion of energy sources and raw materials. The environmental impact of non-biodegradable plastic wastes is of increasing global concern: nowadays, imagining a world without synthetic plastics seems impossible, though their large-scale production and their extensive use have only spread since the end of the World War II. In recent years, the demand for sustainable materials has increased significantly and, with a view to circular economy, research has also focused on the enhancement and subsequent reuse of waste materials produced by industrial processing, intensive farming and the agricultural sector. Plastic polymers have been the most practical and economical solution for decades due to their low cost, prompt availability and excellent optical, mechanical and barrier properties. Biodegradable polymers could replace them in many applications, thus reducing the problems of traditional plastics disposability and the dependence on petroleum. Natural biopolymers are in fact characterized by a high biocompatibility and biodegradability and have already prompted research in the field of regenerative medicine. During my PhD, my goal was to use natural polymers from sustainable sources as raw materials to produce biomaterials, which are materials designed to interface with biological systems to evaluate, support or replace any tissue, organ, or function of the body. I focused on the use of the most abundant biopolymers in nature to produce biomaterials in the form of films, scaffolds and cements. After a complete characterization, the materials were proposed for suitable applications in different fields, from tissue engineering to cosmetics and food packaging. Some of the obtained results were published on international scientific and peer-reviewed journals.