Pass the scissors : consumers close in on the fashion industry

The fashion ecosystem is at boiling point as consumers turn up the heat in all areas of the fashion value, trend and supply chain. While traditionally fashion has been a monologue from designer brand to consumer, new technology and the virtual world has given consumers a voice to engage brands in a conversation to express evolving needs, ideas and feedback. Product customisation is no longer innovative. Successful brands are including customers in the design process and holding conversations ‘with’ them to improve product, manufacturing, sales, distribution, marketing and sustainable business practices. Co-creation and crowd sourcing are integral to any successful business model and designers and manufacturers are supplying the technology or tools for these creative, active, participatory ‘prosumers’. With this collaboration however, there arises a worrying trend for fashion professionals. The ‘design it yourself’, ‘indiepreneur’ who with the combination of technology, the internet, excess manufacturing capacity, crowd funding and the idea of sharing the creative integrity of a product (‘copyleft’ not copyright) is challenging the notion that the fashion supply chain is complex. The passive ‘consumer’ no longer exists. Fashion designers now share the stage with ‘amateur’ creators who are disrupting every activity they touch, while being motivated by profit as well as a quest for originality and innovation. This paper examines the effects this ‘consumer’ engagement is having on traditional fashion models and the fashion supply chain. Crowd sourcing, crowd funding, co-creating, design it yourself, global sourcing, the virtual supply chain, social media, online shopping, group buying, consumer to consumer marketing and retail, and branding the ‘individual’ are indicative of the new consumer-driven fashion models. Consumers now drive the fashion industry - from setting trends, through to creating, producing, selling and marketing product. They can turn up the heat at any time _ and any point _ in the fashion supply chain. They are raising the temperature at each and every stage of the chain, decreasing or eliminating the processes involved: decreasing the risk of fashion obsolescence, quantities for manufacture, complexity of distribution and the consumption of product; eliminating certain stages altogether and limiting the brand as custodians of marketing. Some brands are discovering a new ‘enemy’ – the very people they are trying to sell to. Keywords: fashion supply chain, virtual world, consumer, ‘prosumers’, co-creation, fashion designers

Functional and advanced functional and causal relationship diagrams for remote condition monitoring

Analysing the condition of an asset is a big challenge as there can be many aspects which can contribute to the overall functional reliability of the asset that have to be considered. In this paper we propose a two-step functional and causal relationship diagram (FCRD) to address this problem. In the first step, the FCRD is designed to facilitate the analysis of the condition of an asset by evaluating the interdependence (functional and causal) relationships between different components of the asset with the help of a relationship diagram. This is followed by the advanced FCRD (AFCRD) which refines the information from the FCRD into a comprehensive and manageable format. This new two-step methodology for asset condition monitoring is tested and validated for the case of a water treatment plant. © IMechE 2012.

Insights to the Clarification of Sugar Cane Juice Expressed from Sugar Cane Stalk and Trash

Processing of juice expressed from green sugar cane containing all the trash (i.e., tops and leaves, the nonstalk component) of the sugar cane plant during sugar manufacture has been reported to lead to poor clarified juice (CJ) quality. Studies of different liming techniques have been conducted to identify which liming technique gives the best clarification performance from juice expressed from green cane containing half of all trash extracted (GE). Results have shown that lime saccharate addition to juice at 76 °C either continuous or batchwise gives satisfactory settling rates of calcium phosphate flocs(50−70 cm/min) and CJ with low turbidity and minimal amounts of mineral constituents. Surprisingly, the addition of phosphoric acid (≤300 mg/kg as P2O5), prior to liming to reduce juice turbidity (≤80%), increased the Mg (≤101%) and Si(≤148%) contents particularly for clarified GE juices. The increase was not proportional with increasing phosphoric acid dose. The nature of the flocs formed, including the zeta potential of the particles by the different liming techniques, has been used to account for the differences in clarification performance. Differences between the qualities of the CJ obtained with GE juice and that of burnt cane juices with all trash extracted (BE) have been discussed to provide further insights into GE processing.

A study of ionic liquids for dissolution of sugarcane bagasse

Over the last decade, Ionic Liquids (ILs) have been used for the dissolution and derivatization of isolated cellulose. This ability of ILs is now sought for their application in the selective dissolution of cellulose from lignocellulosic biomass, for the manufacture of cellulosic ethanol. However, there are significant knowledge gaps in the understanding of the chemistry of the interaction of biomass and ILs. While imidazolium ILs have been used successfully to dissolve both isolated crystalline cellulose and components of lignocellulosic biomass, phosphonium ILs have not been sufficiently explored for the use in dissolution of lignocellulosic biomass. This thesis reports on the study of the chemistry of sugarcane bagasse with phosphonium ILs. Qualitative and quantitative measurements of biomass components dissolved in the phosphonium ionic liquids (ILs), trihexyltetradecylphosphonium chloride ([P66614]Cl) and tributylmethylphosphonium methylsulphate ([P4441]MeSO4) are obtained using attenuated total reflectance-Fourier Transform Infra Red (FTIR). Absorption bands related to cellulose, hemicelluloses and lignin dissolution monitored in situ in biomass-IL mixtures indicate lignin dissolution in both ILs and some holocellulose dissolution in the hydrophilic [P4441]MeSO4. The kinetics of lignin dissolution reported here indicate that while dissolution in the hydrophobic IL [P66614]Cl appears to follow an accepted mechanism of acid catalysed β-aryl ether cleavage, dissolution in the hydrophilic IL [P4441]MeSO4 does not appear to follow this mechanism and may not be followed by condensation reactions (initiated by reactive ketones). The quantitative measurement of lignin dissolution in phosphonium ILs based on absorbance at 1510 cm-1 has demonstrated utility and greater precision than the conventional Klason lignin method. The cleavage of lignin β-aryl ether bonds in sugarcane bagasse by the ionic liquid [P66614]Cl, in the presence of catalytic amounts of mineral acid. (ca. 0.4 %). The delignification process of bagasse is studied over a range of temperatures (120 °C to 150 °C) by monitoring the production of β-ketones (indicative of cleavage of β-aryl ethers) using FTIR spectroscopy and by compositional analysis of the undissolved fractions. Maximum delignification is obtained at 150 °C, with 52 % of lignin removed from the original lignin content of bagasse. No delignification is observed in the absence of acid which suggests that the reaction is acid catalysed with the IL solubilising the lignin fragments. The rate of delignification was significantly higher at 150 °C, suggesting that crossing the glass transition temperature of lignin effects greater freedom of rotation about the propanoid carbon-carbon bonds and leads to increased cleavage of β-aryl ethers. An attempt has been made to propose a probable mechanism of delignifcation of bagasse with the phosphonuim IL. All polymeric components of bagasse, a lignocellulosic biomass, dissolve in the hydrophilic ionic liquid (IL) tributylmethylphosphonium methylsulfate ([P4441]MeSO4) with and without a catalytic amount of acid (H2SO4, ca. 0.4 %). The presence of acid significantly increases the extent of dissolution of bagasse in [P4441]MeSO4 (by ca. 2.5 times under conditions used here). The dissolved fractions can be partially recovered by the addition of an antisolvent (water) and are significantly enriched in lignin. Unlike acid catalysed dissolution in the hydrophobic IL tetradecyltrihexylphosphonium chloride there is little evidence of cleavage of β-aryl ether bonds of lignin dissolving in [P4441]MeSO4 (with and without acid), but this mechanism may play some role in the acid catalysed dissolution. The XRD of the undissolved fractions suggests that the IL may selectively dissolve the amorphous cellulose component, leaving behind crystalline material.

Sustainability in road transport : an integrated life cycle analysis for estimating emissions

Despite of a significant contribution of transport sector in the global economy and society, it is one of the largest sources of global energy consumption, green house gas emissions and environmental pollutions. A complete look onto the whole life cycle environmental inventory of this sector will be helpful to generate a holistic understanding of contributory factors causing emissions. Previous studies were mainly based on segmental views which mostly compare environmental impacts of different modes of transport, but very few consider impacts other than the operational phase. Ignoring the impacts of non-operational phases, e.g., manufacture, construction, maintenance, may not accurately reflect total contributions on emissions. Moreover an integrated study for all motorized modes of road transport is also needed to achieve a holistic estimation. The objective of this study is to develop a component based life cycle inventory model which considers impacts of both operational and non-operational phases of the whole life as well as different transport modes. In particular, the whole life cycle of road transport has been segmented into vehicle, infrastructure, fuel and operational components and inventories have been conducted on each component. The inventory model has been demonstrated using the road transport of Singapore. Results show that total life cycle green house gas emissions from the road transport sector of Singapore is 7.8 million tons per year, among which operational phase and non-operational phases contribute about 55% and about 45%, respectively. Total amount of criteria air pollutants are 46, 8.5, 33.6, 13.6 and 2.6 thousand tons per year for CO, SO2, NOx, VOC and PM10, respectively. From the findings, it can be deduced that stringent government policies on emission control measures have a significant impact on reducing environmental pollutions. In combating global warming and environmental pollutions the promotion of public transport over private modes is an effective sustainable policy.

The development of ground impact models for the analysis of the risks associated with Unmanned Aircraft Operations over inhabited areas

With the emergence of Unmanned Aircraft Systems (UAS) there is a growing need for safety standards and regulatory frameworks to manage the risks associated with their operations. The primary driver for airworthiness regulations (i.e., those governing the design, manufacture, maintenance and operation of UAS) are the risks presented to people in the regions overflown by the aircraft. Models characterising the nature of these risks are needed to inform the development of airworthiness regulations. The output from these models should include measures of the collective, individual and societal risk. A brief review of these measures is provided. Based on the review, it was determined that the model of the operation of an UAS over inhabited areas must be capable of describing the distribution of possible impact locations, given a failure at a particular point in the flight plan. Existing models either do not take the impact distribution into consideration, or propose complex and computationally expensive methods for its calculation. A computationally efficient approach for estimating the boundary (and in turn area) of the impact distribution for fixed wing unmanned aircraft is proposed. A series of geometric templates that approximate the impact distributions are derived using an empirical analysis of the results obtained from a 6-Degree of Freedom (6DoF) simulation. The impact distributions can be aggregated to provide impact footprint distributions for a range of generic phases of flight and missions. The maximum impact footprint areas obtained from the geometric template are shown to have a relative error of typically less than 1% compared to the areas calculated using the computationally more expensive 6DoF simulation. Computation times for the geometric models are on the order of one second or less, using a standard desktop computer. Future work includes characterising the distribution of impact locations within the footprint boundaries.

Plant-made vaccines for humans and animals

Summary: The concept of using plants to produce high-value pharmaceuticals such as vaccines is 20 years old this year and is only now on the brink of realisation as an established technology. The original reliance on transgenic plants has largely given way to transient expression; proofs of concept for human and animal vaccines and of efficacy for animal vaccines have been established; several plant-produced vaccines have been through Phase I clinical trials in humans and more are scheduled; regulatory requirements are more clear than ever, and more facilities exist for manufacture of clinic-grade materials. The original concept of cheap edible vaccines has given way to a realisation that formulated products are required, which may well be injectable. The technology has proven its worth as a means of cheap, easily scalable production of materials: it now needs to find its niche in competition with established technologies. The realised achievements in the field as well as promising new developments will be reviewed, such as rapid-response vaccines for emerging viruses with pandemic potential and bioterror agents. © 2010 The Author. Journal compilation © 2010 Blackwell Publishing Ltd.

Third International Conference on plant-based vaccines and antibodies

This relatively new biennial meeting - the first was in Prague in 2005 - was chaired by Julian Ma (Guy's Hospital, London, UK), with Mario Pezzotti (University of Verona, Italy) as local organizer, and attracted approximately 180 delegates from 25 countries. The theme was 'Plant Expression Systems for Recombinant Pharmacologics': there were 46 talks gathered into two plenaries, 12 themed sessions and 72 posters. Topics covered included publicly funded and commercial developments, innovation, regulation and commercialization, competition with conventional technology, manufacture and new products. © 2009 Expert Reviews Ltd.

Couture Academy Exhibition : a curation of the story behind a couture design

Research background: The general public is predominantly unaware of the complexities and skills involved in the fashion supply chain (design, manufacture and retail) of couture/bespoke garments. As cited in McMahon and Morley (2011) “While a high price tag is widely accepted as a necessary element of luxury products (Fionda &Moore, 2009) this must be accompanied by a story that gives the items intrinsic as well as extrinsic value (Keller, 2009). Research question: Is it possible to simulate a fashion couture studio environment in a non-traditional public space in order to produce and promote the processes involved in couture designs; each with their own story and aligned to the aesthetic of six collaborating high profile couture fashion retailers? Research contribution: The Couture Academy project allowed the team to curate the story behind the couture design and supply chain process. It was an experimental, curated, ‘hot-house’ fashion design project undertaken in real time to create one-off couture garments, inspired by key seasonal fashion trends as determined by leading Westfield retailers. The project was industry based, with Westfield Chermside as the launch pad for six QUT fashion students to experiment with design nuances aligned to renowned national fashion industry retailers; Cue, Dissh, Kitten D'Amour, Mombasa and Pink Mint. Industry mentors were assigned to each student designer, in order to heighten the design challenge. The exhibition consisted of a pop-up couture workshop based at Westfield Chermside. A complete fashion studio (sewing machines, pattern-cutting tables and mannequins) was set up for a seven day period in the foyer of the shopping centre with the public watching as the design process unfolded in real-time. The final design outcomes were paraded at the Southbank Precinct to a prominent industry and media panel, with the winner receiving a $2000 prize to fund a research trip to an international fashion capital of their choice. Research significance: This curated fashion project was funded by Westfield Group Australia. "It was the most successful season launch Westfield Chermside has ever had from both an average volume for exposure perspective, and in terms of the level of engagement with retailers and shoppers," said Laura Walls, Westfield Public Relations Consultant. Significant media coverage was generated; including three full pages of editorial in Brisbane’s Sunday Mail, with an estimated publicity value of $95,000. And public exposure through the live project/exhibition was estimated at 7,000 people over the 7 days.

Bioreactor for blood product production

The feasibility of ex vivo blood production is limited by both biological and engineering challenges. From an engineering perspective, these challenges include the significant volumes required to generate even a single unit of a blood product, as well as the correspondingly high protein consumption required for such large volume cultures. Membrane bioreactors, such as hollow fiber bioreactors (HFBRs), enable cell densities approximately 100-fold greater than traditional culture systems and therefore may enable a significant reduction in culture working volumes. As cultured cells, and larger molecules, are retained within a fraction of the system volume, via a semipermeable membrane it may be possible to reduce protein consumption by limiting supplementation to only this fraction. Typically, HFBRs are complex perfusion systems having total volumes incompatible with bench scale screening and optimization of stem cell-based cultures. In this article we describe the use of a simplified HFBR system to assess the feasibility of this technology to produce blood products from umbilical cord blood-derived CD34+ hematopoietic stem progenitor cells (HSPCs). Unlike conventional HFBR systems used for protein manufacture, where cells are cultured in the extracapillary space, we have cultured cells in the intracapillary space, which is likely more compatible with the large-scale production of blood cell suspension cultures. Using this platform we direct HSPCs down the myeloid lineage, while targeting a 100-fold increase in cell density and the use of protein-free bulk medium. Our results demonstrate the potential of this system to deliver high cell densities, even in the absence of protein supplementation of the bulk medium.

Closed system isolation and scalable expansion of human placental mesenchymal stem cells

Mesenchymal stem cells (MSC) are emerging as a leading cellular therapy for a number of diseases. However, for such treatments to become available as a routine therapeutic option, efficient and cost-effective means for industrial manufacture of MSC are required. At present, clinical grade MSC are manufactured through a process of manual cell culture in specialized cGMP facilities. This process is open, extremely labor intensive, costly, and impractical for anything more than a small number of patients. While it has been shown that MSC can be cultivated in stirred bioreactor systems using microcarriers, providing a route to process scale-up, the degree of numerical expansion achieved has generally been limited. Furthermore, little attention has been given to the issue of primary cell isolation from complex tissues such as placenta. In this article we describe the initial development of a closed process for bulk isolation of MSC from human placenta, and subsequent cultivation on microcarriers in scalable single-use bioreactor systems. Based on our initial data, we estimate that a single placenta may be sufficient to produce over 7,000 doses of therapeutic MSC using a large-scale process.

Synthesis and characterisation of nanoscale magnesium oxide powders and their application in thick films of Bi2Sr2CaCu2O8

Nanoscale MgO powder was synthesized from magnesite ore by a wet chemical method. Acid dissolution was used to obtain a solution from which magnesium containing complexes were precipitated by either oxalic acid or ammonium hydroxide, The transformation of precipitates to the oxide was monitored by thermal analysis and XRD and the transformed powders were studied by electron microscopy. The MgO powders were added as dopants to Bi2SrCa2CuO8 powders and high temperature superconductor thick films were deposited on silver. Addition of suitable MgO powder resulted in increase of critical current density, J(c), from 8,900 Acm(-2) to 13,900 Acm(-2) measured at 77 K and 0 T. The effect of MgO addition was evaluated by XRD, electron microscopy and critical current density measurements. (C) 1998 Elsevier Science B.V.

A spectroscopic comparison of YBCO superconductors synthesised by solid-state and co-precipitation methods

Raman spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction (XRD), and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) have been used to compare samples of YBa2Cu3O7 (YBCO) synthesised by the solid-state method and a novel co-precipitation technique. XRD results indicate that YBCO prepared by these two methods are phase pure, however the Raman and SEM results show marked differences between these samples.

Fine-grained Y2Cu2O5 powder from a co-precipitated precursor

A co-precipitation process is utilized to manufacture Y2Cu2O5 precursor powders. Upon calcination at high temperatures, such as 800 degrees C, the co-precipitated powder transforms to Y2Cu2O5. By selective variation of calcination parameters, grain-growth can be controlled to yield different sized Y2Cu2O5 powder, including sub-micron average sizes. ICP analysis, X-ray diffraction, electron microscopy, a.c. magnetic susceptibility and FT Raman are used to characterize phase development, morphology and purity of the powders.

Re-use of domain knowledge to provide confidence for adoption of off-site manufacturing for construction in Australia

Many construction industry decision-makers believe there is a lack of off-site manufacture (OSM) adoption for non-residential construction in Australia. Identification of construction business process was considered imperative in order to assist decision-makers to increase OSM utilisation. The premise that domain knowledge can be re-used to provide an intervention point in the construction process led a team of researchers to construct simple base-line process models for the complete construction process, segmented into six phases. Sixteen domain knowledge industry experts were asked to review the construction phase base-line models to answer the question “Where in the process illustrated by this base-line model phase is an OSM task?”. Through an iterative and generative process a number of off-site manufacture intervention points were identified and integrated into the process models. The re-use of industry expert domain knowledge provided suggestions for new ways to do basic tasks thus facilitating changes to current practice. It is expected that implementation of the new processes will lead to systemic industry change and thus a growth in productivity due to increased adoption of OSM.