Coastal shapes. Geentic clasification 1973 - 2010

An analysis of a stretch of coastline shows multiple alterations through environmental climate actions. The narrow, fragile line displays singularities due to three basic causes. The first is the discontinuity in feed or localised loss of solid coastal material. Called massics, their simplest examples are deltas and undersea canyons. The second is due to a brusque change in the alignment of the shoreline’s edge, headlands, groins, harbour and defence works. Given the name of geometric singularities, their simplest uses are artificial beaches in the shelter of a straight groin or spits. The third is due to littoral dynamics, emerged or submerged obstacles which diffract and refract wave action, causing a change in the sea level’s super-elevation in breaker areas. Called dynamics, the simplest examples are salients, tombolos and shells. Discussion of the causes giving rise to variations in the coastline and formation of singularities is the raison d’être of investigation, using actual cases to check the suitability of the classification proposed, the tangential or differential action of waves on the coastal landscape in addition to possible simple, compound and complex shapes detected in nature, both in erosion and deposit processes

Practical case with regard to applying the functional and environmental method to low crest level, detached breakwaters

The research work as presented in this article covers the design of detached breakwaters since they constitute a type of coastal defence work with which to combat many of the erosion problems found on beaches in a stable, sustainable fashion. The main aim of this work is to formulate a functional and environmental (but not structural) design method, enabling the fundamental characteristics of a detached breakwater to be defined as a function of the effect it is wished to induce on the coast, and taking into account variables of a different nature (climate, geomorphology and geometry) influencing the changes the shoreline undergoes after its construction. With this article, it is intended to submit the final result of the investigation undertaken, applying the detached breakwater design method as developed to solving a practical case. Thus it may be shown how the method enables a detached breakwater’s geometric pre-sizing to be tackled at a place on the coast with certain climate, geomorphology and littoral dynamic characteristics, first setting the final state of equilibrium it is wanted to obtain therein after its construction.

Meteocean Influence on Inland and Coastal Floods in the East of Spain

The Santa Irene flood, at the end of October 1982, is one of the most dramatically and widely reported flood events in Spain. Its renown is mainly attributable to the collapse of the Tous dam, but its main message is to be the paradigm of the incidence of the maritime/littoral weather and its temporal sea-level rise on the coastal plains inland floods. The Santa Irene flood was attributable to a meteorological phenomenon known as gota fría (cold drop), a relatively frequent and intense rainy phenomenon on the Iberian Peninsula, particularly on the Spanish E to SE inlands and coasts. There are some circumstances that can easily come together to unleash the cold drop there: cold and dry polar air masses coming onto the whole Iberian Peninsula and the north of Africa, high sea-water temperatures, and low atmospheric pressure (cyclone) areas in the western Mediterranean basin; these circumstances are quite common during the autumn and, as it happens, in other places around the world (E/SE Africa). Their occurrence, however, shows a great space-temporal variability (in a similar way to hurricanes on Caribbean and western North Atlantic areas or also in a similar way to typhoons). In fact, all of these are equivalent, although different, phenomena, able to have a different magnitude each time. This paper describes the results of a detailed analysis and reflection about this cold drop phenomenon as a whole, on the generation of its rains, and on the different natures and consequences of its flood. This paper also explains the ways in which the nearby maritime weather and the consequential sea level govern floods on different zones of any hydrographical basin. The Santa Irene case can be considered as a paradigm to explain the influence of nearby maritime climatic conditions on flooding phenomena not only in coastal but also in upward inland areas.

Elementos visuales determinantes del Paisaje Litoral. El potencial presente y endógeno en la Confluencia del Tajo con el Atlántico

El objeto de esta tesis es analizar la calidad del paisaje litoral como realidad espacial captada e interpretada por el hombre, a partir de la elección de elementos descriptibles y valorables, que ayudan a encuadrar y relacionar los principales aspectos, componentes, variables y parámetros asociados a la apreciación visual del territorio costero. Resumo Este trabalho tem como objecto de estudo a análise da qualidade da paisagem litoral, enquanto realidade espacial percepcionada e interpretada pelo homem a partir de elementos descritíveis e valoráveis, enquadrando, relacionando e caracterizando os principais aspectos, componentes, variáveis e parâmetros relacionados com a apreciação visual do território costeiro. Résumé Cette thèse a pour objet l'analyse du paysage littoral en tant que réalité spatiale perçue et traduite à partir d'éléments qui peuvent être décrits et mesurés pour servir ensuite à interpréter, caractériser et mettre en relation les principaux aspects, composants, variables et paramètres liés à l'interprétation visuelle du territoire côtier. Abstract The object of this project is to analyse the littoral landscape as a spatial reality perceived and interpreted by mankind, with reference to those elements that can be described and measured, thereby categorizing, connecting and characterizing the principal aspects, components, variables and parameters which relate to the visual interpretation of the coastal territory. Riassunto Questo lavoro ha come obbiettivo di studio l'analisi della qualità del paesaggio litoraneo, inteso come realtà particolare percepita ed interpretata dall'uomo a partire da elementi descrittivi e di valutazione, inquadrando, mettendo in relazione e distinguendo i principali aspetti, componenti, variabili e parametri relativi all'interpretazione visiva del territorio costiero. Zusammenfassung Ziel dieses Projekts ist es, die Eigenschaften der Küstenlandschaft, wie sie vom Menschen als räumliche Wirklichkeit wahrgenommen und gedeutet wird, unter Verwendung der beschreibbaren und messbaren Elemente zu analysieren, und die Hauptaspekte, Bestandteile, Variablen und Parameter der visuellen Interpretation des Küstengebiets einzubeziehen und zu charakterisieren. Samenvatting Het doel van dit project is het analyseren van de kwaliteit van het kustlandschap, zoals dit landschap door mensen als realiteit waargenomen en geïnterpreteerd, geinterpreteerd wordt, daarbij gebruik makende van beschrijfbare en meetbare elementen en tegelijkertijd daarbij in te passen, te verbinden en te karakteriseren de hoofdaspecten, componenten, variabelen en parameters die betrekking hebben op op visuele interpretatie van het kustlandschap.

Investigación, desarrollo y evaluación de metodologías y criterios para la gestión integrada del litoral : aplicación a una costa singular, Marbella (Málaga), España

En la actualidad, el litoral es el objetivo de diversas presiones de toda índole. Por ello, es necesario estudiar e investigar metodologías que ayuden a una gestión eficaz y sostenible de un Sistema con un equilibrio tan frágil y voluble como es el del litoral. De este modo esta tesis estudia las investigaciones y proyectos realizados por el mundo, especialmente en la Unión Europea y se llega a la conclusión de que la utilización combinada de tres metodologías es la solución más eficaz para la gestión litoral. Esta conclusión se aplica a la costa de Marbella, en la provincia de Málaga, debido a sus especiales e importantes circunstancias turísticas, territoriales, físicas y ambientales. Terminada esta Tesis ha entrado en debate un Proyecto de Modificación de la Ley de Costas, que recoge, en parte, los planteamientos de la misma, por lo que el trabajo de investigación se ha complementado, figurando como anejo el Proyecto de Ley. Currently, coast is the target of all kinds of pressures. Due to that, it is necessary to study and research on methodologies to carry out an effective and sustainable management of a system with such a delicate and vulnerable balance. In this way this research work studies the research and projects carried out throughout the World, especially in the European Community to reach the conclusion that the combined use of three methodologies is the more adequate solution for littoral management. This conclusion is applied along the coast of Marbella, in Málaga (Spain) because of its special tourist, territorial, urbanity, physics and environmental circumstances. Once the work finished, a project of Law modification has begun its process at Parliament. New Law takes into consideration some of the results of this investigation, and document is incorporated as annex.

Functional and environmental design of detached, low crest level breakwaters

In this article we research the design of detached breakwaters, a type of coastal defence work designed to combat erosion on beaches in a stable, sustainable fashion. Our aim is to formulate a functional and environmental (nonstructural) method of design that defines the fundamental characteristics of a detached breakwater as a function of the desired effect on the coast whilst meeting social demands and preserving or improving the quality of the littoral environment. We aim to make this method generally applicable by considering relations between variables of different natures (climatic, geomorphologic, and geometric) influencing the changes experienced on the coast after the detached breakwater has been built. We carried out the study of the relations between the different variables on the data from 19 actual, existing detached breakwaters on the Spanish Mediterranean coastline, and we followed a methodology based on the implementation of nondimensional monomials and on a search for relations of dependency between them. Finally, we discussed the results obtained and came up with a proposal for a design method that uses some of the graphic relations found between the variables studied and that achieves the main objective. For example, a case of a detached breakwater’s geometric presizing is solved as a practical demonstration of how the method is applied. La investigación que se presenta en este artículo aborda el diseño de los diques exentos, por constituir estos un tipo de obras de defensa costera con el que poder luchar de una forma estable y sostenible contra muchos de los problemas de erosión que existen en las playas. El objetivo principal de este trabajo es la formulación de un método de diseño funcional y ambiental (no estructural) que permita definir las características fundamentales de un dique exento en función del efecto que se quiera inducir en la costa, satisfaciendo las demandas sociales y preservando o mejorando la calidad del medio ambiente litoral. Además, se busca la aplicabilidad general del método mediante la consideración de relaciones entre variables de distinta naturaleza (climáticas, geomorfológicas y geométricas) que tienen influencia en los cambios que se experimentan en la costa tras la construcción del dique exento. El estudio de las relaciones entre las distintas variables se realiza sobre los datos de una base de diecinueve diques exentos reales, existentes en el litoral mediterráneo español, y sigue una metodología basada en el planteamiento de monomios adimensionales y en la búsqueda de relaciones de dependencia entre ellos. Finalmente, la discusión de los resultados obtenidos conduce a la propuesta de un método de diseño que utiliza algunas de las relaciones graficas encontradas entre las variables estudiadas y con el que se consigue el objetivo principal anteriormente expuesto. Para demostrar la aplicación práctica del método se resuelve un caso de predimensionamiento geométrico de un dique exento a modo de ejemplo.

Understanding extreme Spanish coastal flood events

The Santa Irene flood event, at the end of October 1982, is one of the most dramatically widely reported flood events in Spain. Its renown is mainly due to the collapse of the Tous dam, but its main message is to be the paradigm of the incidence of the maritime/littoral weather and its temporal sea level rise by storm surge accompanying rain process on the coastal plains inland floods. Looking at damages the presentation analyzes the adapted measures from the point of view of the aims of the FP7 SMARTeST Project related to the Flood Resilience improvement in urban areas through looking for Technologies, Systems and Tools an appropriate "road to de market".