Shrinking Violets

Description of the work Shrinking Violets is comprised of two half scale garments in laser cut silk organza, developed with a knotting device to allow for disassembly and reassembly. The first is a jacket in layered red organza including black storm flap details. The second is a vest in jade organza with circles of pink organza attached through a pattern of knots. Research Background This practice-led fashion design research sits within the field of Design for Sustainability (DfS) in fashion that seeks to mitigate the environmental and ethical impacts of fashion consumption and production. The research explores new systems of garment construction for DfS, and examines how these systems may involve ‘designing’ new user interactions with the garments. The garments’ construction system allows them to be disassembled and recycled or reassembled by users to form a new garment. Conventional garment design follows a set process of cutting and construction, with pattern pieces permanently machine-stitched together. Garments typically contain multiple fibre types; for example a jacket may be constructed from a shell of wool/polyester, an acetate lining, fusible interlinings, and plastic buttons. These complex inputs mean that textile recycling is highly labour intensive, first to separate the garment pieces and second to sort the multiple fibre types. This difficulty results in poor quality ‘shoddy’ comprised of many fibre types and unsuitable for new apparel, or in large quantities of recyclable textile waste sent to landfill (Hawley 2011). Design-led approaches that consider the garment’s end of life in the design process are a way of addressing this problem. In Gulich’s (2006) analysis, use of single materials is the most effective way to ensure ease of recycling, with multiple materials that can be detached next in effectiveness. Given the low rate of technological innovation in most apparel manufacturing (Ruiz 2011), a challenge for effective recycling is how to develop new manufacturing methods that allow for garments to be more easily disassembled at end-of-life. Research Contribution This project addresses the research question: How can design for disassembly be considered within the fashion design process? I have employed a practice-led methodology in which my design process leads the research, making use of methods of fashion design practice including garment and construction research, fabric and colour research, textile experimentation, drape, patternmaking, and illustration as well as more recent methods such as laser cutting. Interrogating the traditional approaches to garment construction is necessarily a technical process; however fashion design is as much about the aesthetic and desirability of a garment as it is about the garment’s pragmatics or utility. This requires a balance between the technical demands of designing for disassembly with the aesthetic demands of fashion. This led to the selection of luxurious, semi-transparent fabrics in bold floral colours that could be layered to create multiple visual effects, as well as the experimentation with laser cutting for new forms of finishing and fastening the fabrics together. Shrinking Violets makes two contributions to new knowledge in the area of design for sustainability within fashion. The first is in the technical development of apparel modularity through the system of laser cut holes and knots that also become a patterning device. The second contribution lies in the design of a system for users to engage with the garment through its ability to be easily reconstructed into a new form. Research Significance Shrinking Violets was exhibited at the State Library of Queensland’s Asia Pacific Design Library, 1-5 November 2015, as part of The International Association of Societies of Design Research’s (IASDR) biannual design conference. The work was chosen for display by a panel of experts, based on the criteria of design innovation and contribution to new knowledge in design. References Gulich, B. (2006). Designing textile products that are easy to recycle. In Y. Wang (Ed.), Recycling in Textiles (pp. 25-37). London: Woodhead. Hawley, J. M. (2011). Textile recycling options: exploring what could be. In A. Gwilt & T. Rissanen (Eds.), Shaping Sustainable Fashion: Changing the way we make and use clothes (pp. 143 - 155). London: Earthscan. Ruiz, B. (2014). Global Apparel Manufacturing. Retrieved 10 August 2014, from http://clients1.ibisworld.com/reports/gl/industry/default.aspx?entid=470

Constitutive model for municipal solid waste incorporating mechanical creep and biodegradation-induced compression

A constitutive model is proposed to describe the stress-strain behavior of municipal solid waste (MSW) under loading using the critical state soil mechanics framework. The modified cam clay model is extended to incorporate the effects of mechanical creep and time dependent biodegradation to calculate total compression under loading. Model parameters are evaluated based on one-dimensional compression and triaxial consolidated undrained test series conducted on three types of MSW: (a) fresh MSW obtained from working phase of a landfill, (b) landfilled waste retrieved from a landfill after 1.5 years of degradation, and (c) synthetic MSW with controlled composition. The model captures the stress-strain and pore water pressure response of these three types of MSW adequately. The model is useful for assessing the deformation and stability of landfills and any post-closure development structures located on landfills.

Fuzzy waste load allocation model: a multiobjective approach

Fuzzy Waste Load Allocation Model (FWLAM), developed in an earlier study, derives the optimal fractional levels, for the base flow conditions, considering the goals of the Pollution Control Agency (PCA) and dischargers. The Modified Fuzzy Waste Load Allocation Model (MFWLAM) developed subsequently is a stochastic model and considers the moments (mean, variance and skewness) of water quality indicators, incorporating uncertainty due to randomness of input variables along with uncertainty due to imprecision. The risk of low water quality is reduced significantly by using this modified model, but inclusion of new constraints leads to a low value of acceptability level, A, interpreted as the maximized minimum satisfaction in the system. To improve this value, a new model, which is a combination Of FWLAM and MFWLAM, is presented, allowing for some violations in the constraints of MFWLAM. This combined model is a multiobjective optimization model having the objectives, maximization of acceptability level and minimization of violation of constraints. Fuzzy multiobjective programming, goal programming and fuzzy goal programming are used to find the solutions. For the optimization model, Probabilistic Global Search Lausanne (PGSL) is used as a nonlinear optimization tool. The methodology is applied to a case study of the Tunga-Bhadra river system in south India. The model results in a compromised solution of a higher value of acceptability level as compared to MFWLAM, with a satisfactory value of risk. Thus the goal of risk minimization is achieved with a comparatively better value of acceptability level.

Social and environmental reporting practices of organisations operating in, or sourcing products from, a developing country : evidence from Bangladesh

This research consists of a broad study in three parts of the social and environmental reporting practices of organisations operating in or sourcing products from a developing country, in this case Bangladesh. The first part of this study explores the social and environmental disclosure practices of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), the body responsible for organising the activities of 4,200 entities involved in the export of garments from Bangladesh. By way of interview, this part documents the opinions of numerous senior executives from the BGMEA with regard to any changes in the degree of social and environmental pressures since 1985. Utilising a complementary theoretical perspective that includes legitimacy theory, stakeholder theory and institutional theory this part then performs an analysis of the BGMEA's annual reports (1987-2005), t o explore the link between the perceived pressures and changes entailed therein and the social and environmental disclosure practices of the BGMEA across the period of analysis. The results show that the disclosure practices of BGMEA appear to be directly driven by the changing expectations of multinational buying companies- the group deemed to be the most powerful stakeholder group. This section is the first known study to interview managers from a large organisation in a developing country about shifting stakeholder expectations and then to link these changing expectations to annual report disclosures across an extended period of analysis. The findings then directly lead to the second major part of this thesis which investigates the social and environmental disclosure practices of two major multinational buying companies: Nike and H&M. Adopting a joint consideration of legitimacy theory and media agenda setting theory, this second part investigates the linkage between negative media attention and positive corporate social and environmental disclosures over a 19 year period. The results support the view that for those industry-related social and environmental issues that attract the greatest amount of negative media attention, these companies react by providing positive social and environmental disclosures. The results were particularly significant in relation to labour practices in developing countries-the issue that attracts the greatest amount of negative media attention for the companies in question. While the second part demonstrates that the media influences particular disclosure practices, the third part of the thesis shows what drives the media. Based on the speculation provided in the second part, the third part tests the proposition that the media is an important ally of NGOs in their quest to influence change in corporate accountabilities. Through the use of interviews, the results of this part of the study provide evidence to support previously untested perspectives about NGOs' utilisation of the m edia. The results reveal that NGOs use the media because the media is responsible for creating real changes in the operations and disclosure policies of organisations sourcing products from Bangladesh. The various pressures impacting the activities of organisations operating in or sourcing products from developing countries constitutes a fascinating area of investigation, and it is hoped that this study will motivate further research in this area.

Cup products for groups and commutators

We give it description, modulo torsion, of the cup product on the first cohomology group in terms of the descriptions of the second homology group due to Hopf and Miller.

Consumer’s comparison between local and imported organic products: A hedonic analysis of the Japanese table wine market

Although hundreds of thousands of organic products are traded on a daily basis, it is less known how imported organic products are evaluated by consumers in an importing country. The paper analyzes Japanese wine point of sale (POS) data to examine whether consumers differentiate between local and imported organic products. The results of our hedonic analyses show that the premium for imported organic red (white) wines is about 42.996 % (8.872 %) while that for domestic red (white) organic wines is about 6.440 % (1.214 %), implying that Japanese consumers pay higher premiums for imported organic agricultural products than for those produced in Japan.

Food waste, power, and corporate social responsibility in the Australian food supply chain

By examining corporate social responsibility (CSR) and power within the context of the food supply chain, this paper illustrates how food retailers claim to address food waste while simultaneously setting standards that result in the large-scale rejection of edible food on cosmetic grounds. Specifically, this paper considers the powerful role of food retailers and how they may be considered to be legitimately engaging in socially responsible behaviors to lower food waste, yet implement practices that ultimately contribute to higher levels of food waste elsewhere in the supply chain. Through interviews with key actors in the Australian fresh fruit and vegetable supply chain, we highlight the existence of a legitimacy gap in corporate social responsibility whereby undesirable behaviors are pushed elsewhere in the supply chain. It is argued that the structural power held by Australia’s retail duopoly means that supermarkets are able to claim virtuous and responsible behaviors, despite counter claims from within the fresh food industry that the food supermarkets’ private quality standards mean that fresh food is wasted. We argue that the supermarkets claim CSR kudos for reducing food waste at the expense of other supply chain actors who bear both the economic cost and the moral burden of waste, and that this is a consequence of supermarkets’ remarkable market power in Australia.

Training for reduction of design waste

Construction and demolition (C&D) waste have negative impacts on the environment. As a significant proportion of C&D waste is related to the design stage of a project, there is an opportunity for architects to reduce the waste. However, research suggests that many architects often do not understand the impact of their design on waste generation. Training and education are proposed by current researchers to improve architects’ knowledge; however, this has not been adequately validated as a viable approach to solving waste issues. This research investigates architects’ perceptions towards waste management in the design phase, and determines whether they feel they are adequately skilled in reducing C&D waste. Questionnaire surveys were distributed to architects from 98 architectural firms and 25 completed surveys were returned. The results show that while architects are aware of the relationship between design and waste, ‘extra time’ and ‘lack of knowledge’ are the key barriers to implementing waste reduction strategies. In addition, the majority of respondents acknowledge their lack of skill to reduce waste through design evaluation. Therefore, training programmes can be a viable strategy to enable them to address the pressing issue of C&D waste reduction.

Syntheses of the trans,meso- and racemic C11 acids, degradation products of diterpene acids

Syntheses of the isomers of the C11 acid, 1(a),3(a)- dimethylcyclohexane-1 (e),2(e),3(e)-tricarboxylic acid (A) and 1(a),3(e)-dimethylcyclohexane-1(e),2(e),3(a)-tricarboxylic acid (B), the latter by two different routes, are reported. Two of the four possible isomers of the precursor triester, trimethyl 1-methylcyclohexane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate, on individual methylation followed by hydrolysis, gave the trans,meso-acid (A), identified by comparison with an authentic sample, and the cis,trans-form (B) whose structure and configuration were proved by comparison with a specimen obtained by the unambiguous and highly stereoselective second synthesis. This demonstrated that methylation of the triester isomers occurs stereospecifically and exclusively at C-3. In the second sequence, it has been possible to assign definite conformations to four key intermediates and the final product, directly from n.m.r. spectra, from changes in these spectra accompanying specific steps, and from chemical evidence. Comparison of the n.m.r. spectra of the isomeric triesters (A) and (B) has provided unequivocal proof of the accepted trans,meso configuration for the abietic acid degradation product (A).

Structure of abnormal products isolated from the isomerization of 7-methoxychromano3,4-disoxazole - A novel synthesis of one of the products

A one-step synthesis of (IIb), an isomerization product of 7-methoxychromano3,4-disoxazole, from (III) is reported.

The role of selected non-timber forest products for rural areas in Laos: Case studies in Ban Napo and Ban Kouay communities

Non-timber forest products (NTFPs) are one of the major income sources for the rural population of Laos. An exploratory study was conducted to determine the role of non-timber forest products for rural communities of the study area. The study was carried out in two villages viz. Ban Napo and Ban Kouay of Sangthong district between January and March 2010. A semi-structured questionnaire was used to gather data from the respondents. Twenty-five respondents from each village were chosen based on their involvement in NTFPs collection and marketing activities. Statistically significant NTFPs income differences were not found between the villages and age groups of the respondents, however, significant differences were found in the annual incomes between farms size of the respondents. This study also analyzed the value chain structure of the three (See khai’ ton, Bamboo mats and Incense sticks) important non-timber forest products and the interactions between the actors in the case study areas. Barriers to entry the market, governance and upgrading possibilities have been discussed for each of the value chains. Comparison of unit prices at different levels of the value chains indicated uneven income distribution in favour of the intermediaries, factories and foreign buyers. The lack of capital, marketing information and negotiation skills restricted the villagers to increase their income. However, all the respondents have shown their satisfaction with their income from NTFPs.

Nitrosation of N,N′-ethylenebis-(acetylacetoneimine) complexes of copper (II) and nickel(II) and characterization of the products

Isonitroso derivatives of copper(II) and nickel(II) complexes of N,N′-ethylenebis(acetylacetoneimine) have been prepared by nitrosation of the respective complexes using nitric oxide as well as nitrite ion. The condensation of isonitrosoacetylacetone in the presence and in the absence of nickel(II) has been investigated. The i.r. and electronic spectra and magnetic moment of the nickel(II) and copper(II) complexes have been studied. The nature of bonding of the ligand to the metal ion is discussed. The complexes have planar structures.

Steroids and related natural products. VIII. Synthesis of oxasteroids

Peroxydisulfuric acid oxidation of testosterone propionate, progesterone, and cholest-4-en-3-one has been shown to yield 3-oxo-17β-hydroxy-4-oxa-5α-androstane (I, after saponification), 3,20-dioxo-4-oxa-5α-pregnane (V) and 3-oxo-4-oxa-5α-cholestane (VII) respectively. Boron trifluoride etherate-lithium aluminum hydride reduction of δ-lactones I, V, and VII led to the corresponding tetrahydropyran derivatives (IIb, VIa, and VIII). Similar reduction of 3β-hydroxy-17-oxo-17a-oxa-D-homo-5α-androstane (XI) gave 3β-hydroxy-17a-oxa-D-homo-5α-androstane (XIIa). Diborane-boron trifluoride etherate was also found to reduce lactones to cyclic ethers, while reduction with diborane gave hemiacetals. Evidence in support of the structures and stereochemistry assigned to the lactones and their unusual reduction products has been summarized. A tentative mechanism is proposed for lactone → ether reduction employing diborane-boron trifluoride etherate.